Sunday, August 3, 2025

Off to Segovia on a historical and gastronomical quest

Segovia, a historic city northwest of Madrid, in Spain's Castile and León region, was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985. This recognition was because of the rich architectural legacy of its historic buildings. Today Segovia's economy centers around metallurgy, agriculture, furniture, construction and tourism. Day trippers from Madrid visit its popular attractions, specifically three main historical landmarks: Aqueduct of Segovia (Roman aqueduct)Segovia Cathederal (one of the last Gothic style churches built in Europe), and the Alcázar of Segovia Castle (a former fortress). Besides its rich architectural legacy our quest was to learn more about its gastronomy.

Aqueduct of Segovia © Spaswinefood
Viewing Segovia's Aqueduct © Spaswinefood

Historical Landmarks: AqueductSegovia Cathederal, Alcázar of Segovia, and more

Of course when you arrive in Segovia's Plaza del Azoguejo the aqueduct is the first prominent structure you see. This iconic ancient Roman aqueduct has more than 160 arches, most are the original mortarless granite. Near the aqueduct there is a statue of the Loba Capitolina. It is a replica of the original found in Rome. The statue depicts a scene of the legend of the founding of Rome. It is a she-wolf suckling the founders of Rome, Romulus and Remus. Given the history of the Romans in Segovia this statue is quite fitting.

Loba Capitolina Statue, Segovia © Spaswinefood
Further along at the highest point in town is the Segovia Cathederal, one of the last Gothic style churches built in Europe. After the fire in the old Romanesque cathedral in 1520, in 1525 the construction of the cathedral of Segovia began, during the reign of Carlos V. It is built in late Gothic style . 
Segovia Cathederal © Spaswinefood

Besides the cathedral Segovia has a number of churches that showcase its rich architectural history. A very well preserved and beautiful church is the Church of San Martín, which is located in the historic center, next to the Juan Bravo statue. San Martín church was built in the 12th century. A great example of the Romanesque Segovia, the church features all that is remarkable about Castilian Romanesque architecture.
Iglesia de San Martín © Spaswinefood

The Alcázar of Segovia, a medieval castle, which has existed since at least the 12th century. It is one of the most renowned medieval castles globally, and one of the most visited landmarks in Spain.
Alcázar of Segovia © Spaswinefood

Alcazar castle ( al–qasr in Arabic) is now fantasy castle that was once an Islamic fortress. This castle inspired Walt Disney's design for his Sleeping Beauty. 

More on Segovia's Architecture History

The city's architecture history is recorded in the building designs. During the Middle Ages Jews and Muslims lived in Aljama communities in Spain. These communities were self-governing quarters that supported their lifestyles but still required them to pay taxes. While walking through Segovia's historic central we saw building façades of both Jewish and Muslim communities.  For example, the architectural facades often referred to as Moorish Patterned Wall Decoration, are a legacy of the Muslin population. These arabesque motifs not only gave personality to each building but also, showcased the societal hierarchies of its inhabitants. 

Architectural Facades, Segovia © Spaswinefood
Architectural Facades, Segovia © Spaswinefood
Architectural Facades, Segovia © Spaswinefood

In 1481, ten years before Isabella and Ferdinand issued the Edict of Expulsion, ordering Jews to convert to Christianity or leave Spain. Jews were ordered into a Jewish “ghetto” within Segovia. Some of the remnants of the ghetto remain today. Amongst the most stunning is Casa de los Picos.

Casa de los Picos, Segovia © Spaswinefood

Casa De Los Picos, a 15th-century building, is known for its facade adorned with granite points, and its Renaissance courtyard. The city's Jewish Quarter, once home to a thriving Hebrew community until their expulsion in the 15th century, now offers picturesque narrow streets and historic buildings. The Hebrew symbol on the ground in Segovia's historic center marks a boundary of the Jewish Ghetto.

Hebrew Symbol, Segovia © Spaswinefood

Besides its architectural legacy Segovia’s tourism offers cultural and culinary attractions. The city has many interesting museums and exhibition halls. There are as well as famous inns and restaurants where you can explore Segovian cuisine. Given our limited time we focused primarily on its rich architectural legacy and its gastronomy.

Historical Center of Segovia © Spaswinefood

Segovia's Historical Center © Spaswinefood

While I was impressed by the city's rich history I still wanted insights into its gastronomy. For visitors who would like to check out the wine and food scene Segovia is also worthy. Next, an overview of what Segovia and Castile y León region has to offer.

Gastronomy of Segovia and Castile y León 

Segovia is located within the Castile y León wine region. Castilla y Léon is one of the most important wine regions in Spain, which combines notable DOs (Denominaciones de Origen) such as Ribera del Duero, Toro, Rueda and Bierzo. Segovia is part of the Ribera del Duero wine region, which is a prominent Spanish wine area. Ribera del Duero wine route runs through the plateau of Castile-León. The four winemaking provinces of the region are Burgos, Segovia, Soria, and Valladolid.While most vineyards in this region are located in Burgos, near the town of Aranda de Duero, the Ribera del Duero DO (Denominación de Origen) also extends into the provinces of Valladolid, Soria, and Segovia.   DO Ribera del Duero produces mostly red wines. The region is known for its Tempranillo-based blends. The wines must contain at least 75% of Tempranillo to satisfy the requirements of Ribera del Duero DO. The other permitted black grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Garnacha Tinta. Albillo Mayor is a white grape variety of Ribera del Duero. 

For sure Segovia cuisine has its roots in local products. Obviously, a meal at a Segovian restaurant must be accompanied by some of the renowned wines produced in the province, from the Ribera del Duero, or those under the D.O. Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla y León.  La Granja or a Castilian white bean soup is a very good culinary option. During a prior visit to Ribera del Duero, I have had this soup.

Sopa de Frijoles (Bean Soup)

Sopa de Frijoles (Bean Soup), Molino de Palacios © Spaswinefood
Of course soup dishes will vary throughout the region. 

Garbanzo Soup Plate, Mélida Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Garbanzo Soup Plate, Mélida Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Bean soups are a popular item on restaurant menus. 

Besides soup two of the stellar products of the Segovian gastronomy is Cochinillo, a roasted suckling pig, and Lechazo, a roasted suckling lamb. 

Lechazo (Roast Suckling Lamb)

Lechazo (Lamb), Molino de Palacios © Spaswinefood

Roast Suckling Lamb (Lechazo), perhaps the most famous dish in Ribera del Duero, is roasted in a wood-fired oven until it is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. 

Other meat dishes often include rich pieces of Serrano beef and, of course, a great variety of dishes with pork. 

Ponche Segoviano is a traditional cake originating from Segovia. This King of Segovia desserts, is a fine sponge cake filled with cream and bathed in syrup, which is covered with a thin layer of marzipan that keeps its sweet moisture inside. During earlier trips to Spain I have enjoyed exploring Ribera del Duero Gastronomy

As we explored the historic center of Segovia we passed by shops selling local food products.

Window Display, Segovia © Spaswinefood
Display of Sausages, Segovia © Spaswinefood

Spain is full of culinary treasures, and one of them is Iberian ham
Ibericos Shop, Segovia © Spaswinefood
Display of Meat Products, Segovia © Spaswinefood
One could spend days just exploring Iberian hamSerrano ham and other meats available in Segovia. 

Time is definitely needed to explore the city's restaurants. Besides having lunch in Segovia we only had time to stop for a mid-morning snack at one of its cafes.
Tempting Baked Goods, Segovia © Spaswinefood

Bye for Now Segovia 
A day trip to Segovia goes by quickly. All to soon we headed back down towards the entrance to this magical city of warm terracotta and sandstone hues. There amid the rolling hills of Castilla, against the backdrop of the Sierra de Guadarrama, is Segovia.

Segovia's Terracotta and Sandstone Hues © Spaswinefood
Terracotta and Sandstone Hues of Segovia © Spaswinefood

It is the perfect location to stop and pose against the backdrop of the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains in the distance.
Hues of Segovia © Spaswinefood
Segovia Hues © Spaswinefood
We paused briefly to take in the distant views of the Sierra de Guadarrama Mountains.
 Sierra de Guadarrama Mountains in the Distance, Segovia © Spaswinefood
Then we passed by the aqueduct once more before leaving Segovia's central historical district.
Segovia Aqueduct © Spaswinefood
Off into the distance we go with memories of Segovia.
Segovia Aqueduct © Spaswinefood

Madrid is a great base to explore nearby cities, like Segovia. We stayed on Grande Via in Central Madrid, which was the perfect location for exploring nearby historical cities, and checking out their culinary scene.  Without a doubt Segovia's architectural legacy and its gastronomy is exciting to explore!  I would recommend a 2-3 day visit to Segovia. This could include a wine country visit to the nearby DO Ribera del DueroI invite you to join me in my wine travel adventures in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on  Bluesky and Facebook. 


CHEERS! 

Sharon
April 2025
Segovia, Spain
© Spaswinefood

 Off to Segovia's Historical Central District © Spaswinefood
Segovia Cathedral © Spaswinefood
Leaving Segovia © Spaswinefood
Central Madrid, Spain © Spaswinefood

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