Back to the Douro Valley

After leaving Santiago de Compostela, Galicia we headed south, arriving in Portugal's Douro Valley around three hours later. It was not long before we were taking in those amazing Douro Valley vineyard views along the river. The Douro just keeps calling me back.

Tourists Cruising near Pinhão, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Every time I visit the Douro Valley I am immediately struck by its stunning beauty. Terraced vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, along the Douro River and its tributaries. That May day we so enjoyed the views as we descended into Pinhão.

 Welcome to the Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Taking in Douro Valley Views © Spaswinefood

We decided to stop and have a picnic lunch before checking into our hotel.

Picnic, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

View from Picnic Table, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Back to the Douro Valley 

Whenever Spaswinefood is in Portugal, it is hard to resist a trip to the Douro Valley. Might I say, for this wine enthusiast, no trip to Portugal is complete, without a visit to the Douro. 

A Douro Day, July 2016 © Spaswinefood

I am happy to say that my July 2016 adventure in Portugal included a very special day trip to the Douro Valley.  When you arrive in the beautiful Douro Valley one naturally has to pose for a picture, even if you are not into selfies. After all, who can resist such stunning backdrops for a pose.

Hello Douro, Right Pose, July 2016 © Spaswinefood

Hello Douro, Left Pose, July 2016 © Spaswinefood

We spent most of that July day at Quevedo's at Quinta Senhora Do Rosário.  

It was indeed a delightfully hot July day in the Douro Valley.

Swimmers, Douro Valley 2016 © Spaswinefood

Before leaving on such a hot day we took a dip in the Douro. It was a great way to cool down on a 38 degree Celsius day. Hot or not, no true wine enthusiast can get enough of the Douro. The Douro Valley port wines and its other wines sure leave a lasting impression.

Returning spring 2023 to the Douro Valley allowed me to revisit some Quintas, and visit some for the first time. 

Quinta do Portal

It was great to return to Quinta do Portal where I first visited in October 2012.

Quinta do Portal, Douro Valley, 2023 © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Quinta do Portal, 2023 © Spaswinefood

I still remember that earlier fall visit in 2012.

It was October, just after the harvest, when we visited Quinta do Portal, a boutique winery in the Douro Valley. It was so much fun to stay at a quinta (or vineyard) where the grapes are grown and the wine is produced. In fact staying at a Douro Valley quinta was the perfect place for this Spaswinefood enthusiast. Quinta do Portal offers great accommodations (Casa das Pipas) and there is a gourmet restaurant right on the property. Moreover, little did we know when we booked Quinta do Portal that we would get to spend quality time with winemaker, Paulo Coutinho. 

Quinta do Portal's Casa das Pipas, 2012 © Spaswinefood

 Quinta do Portal Vineyards, October 2012 © Spaswinefood

Needless to say while at Quinta do Portal we enjoyed great food and wines and fabulous hospitality. (Spaswinefood, July 2012)

Returning in 2023 meant we could experience the vineyards in spring time.

Quinta do Portal, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

We so enjoyed those spring time walks.

Quinta do Portal, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Spring time meant the grapes were just starting to bud.

Spring Time Vines, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Grape Vines Starting to Bud, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Besides observing the vineyard we loved taking in the views.

Taking in the Views, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

We took advantage of posing in the vineyard.

Carol, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Spaswinefood Moments, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

We so enjoyed those vineyard walks.  Some how we managed to have two dinners at the restaurant during our stay.

Quinta do Portal Restaurant © Spaswinefood

We had the most fabulous breakfasts, toured the winery, and of course dined at the restaurant.

Quinta do Portal Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Yes, we toured the winery to find out what the latest wine suggestions were.

Quinta do Portal, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

We so enjoyed our stay at Quinta do Portal. 

Quinta Manhas Douro

Before leaving the Douro we would also spend a short stay at Quinta Manhas Douro.

Quinta Manhas Douro © Spaswinefood

Taking in the Views at Quinta Manhas Douro © Spaswinefood

A Few More Highlights 

During our recent Douro Valley stay we ventured out and explored along the wine route.

Rota do Vinho do Porto, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

We sure enjoyed those Douro Valley drives.

Taking in the Views, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Taking in the Views, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

One of those drives took us to Quinta do Pôpa.

Quinta do Popa

Over the years I have interacted with Stéphane Ferreira whose family owns Quinta do Pôpa. We were blown away by the views at Quinta do Pôpa. I am so happy that I finally got to visit.

Quinta do Pôpa, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

For sure after driving up we relaxed and took our time before venturing back down.

Carol, Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

#Winelover Moments, Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

After taking in the sights at the top, off we went to the tasting room

Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

During our visit we were introduced to four of their wines while enjoying a charcuterie platter.

Quinta do Pôpa Delights © Spaswinefood

Quinta do Pôpa Wines © Spaswinefood

One never tires of the view here.

Those Douro Valley Views © Spaswinefood

Douro Valley View from Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

YES, we checked the road below, below heading back down.

Descend into Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

I still remember earlier introductions to Quinta do Pôpa wines, such as: 

We were among the wine enthusiasts who attended the Annual Grand Tasting of Wines of Portugal in San Francisco.  We tasted wines from a family winery, Quinta do Pôpa.  While the Douro Valley is know for its port Quinta do Pôpa chooses instead to produce quality red, white and rosé wines from the grapes grown in their vineyard.

Stephané Ferreira, Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

We were happy to meet Stephané Ferreira from Quinta do Pôpa.  While we had meet Stephané Ferreira before, it was time to take a closer look at Quinta do Pôpa wines. The vinification of Quinta do Pôpa wines is under the direction of the well known oenologist Luís Pato. Quinta do Pôpa offers five tiers of wines (Pôpa, Pôpa Doce, TRePA/PAPO, Preffácio and Contos da Terra. Now for an introduction to the Quinta do Pôpa wines that we tasted at the San Francisco tasting. Three of the wines were Pôpa wines, the top tier.

Quinta do Pôpa, Pôpa TN, TR and VV 2009 Wines  © Spaswinefood

Quinta do Pôpa wines well represented the theme for this year's Annual Grand Tasting event. Quinta do Pôpa's passion for making great Douro Valley wine definitely shows. It was a great day for Portuguese wine discoveries.Quinta do Pôpa wines are available in the US from NLS Wines. (Spaswinefood, May 2014)

Wines of Portugal Making History, 2014 © Spaswinefood

Cozinha da Clara Restaurant 

Our spring time travels took us to Cozinha da Clara Restaurant. 

Cozinha da Clara Restaurant, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Cozinha da Clara Restaurant © Spaswinefood

It was here we had the most fabulous lunch with a wine flight of course.

Quinta De La Rosa Wines, Cozinha da Clara Restaurant  © Spaswinefood

Dining at Cozinha da Clara Restaurant was such a treat.

Without a doubt, returning to the Douro Valley was an highlight of my 2023 wine travels in Portugal. For me, besides hanging out with wine enthusiast friends, it was perfect timing to be in the Douro. The Douro Valley wines is a must for wine lovers, especially if the wine lover appreciates learning about port and the other great wines produced in this region. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Portugal and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my vine-filled explorations in Portugal. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

May 2023

Douro Valley, Portugal 

© Spaswinefood

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Special thanks to Carol for her driving skills!

Thanks Carol, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

#spaswinefood travels in Portugal

Living the dream in Ribera del Duero : Convento Oreja

Ribera del Duero's Convento Oreja has been described as where a dream is born. Last May, I joined WineMine friends from Portugal for SweetEasy wine explorations in Ribera del Duero. Our visit to Convento Oreja was all about living the dream in Ribera del Duero wine country!

Convento Oreja, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

That day began at Pago de Carraovejas for a wine and food pairing, followed by lunch at Mélida, a boutique winery, and concluded with a wine tasting at Convento Oreja. Convento Oreja is located in the historical center of the Ribera del Duero.  It was founded by a group of wine enthusiasts who had been thinking about it for a very long time. Their goal for achieving their dream was -  to enjoy our friendship by tasting a glass of our own wine, a glass which gathered our own style, our passion, our work and the work of the nature in the lands of the Ribera del Duero.

They chose Convento Oreja for the name of the winery and the wine. The owners decided on this to celebrate of one of their icons, a very old Cistercian convent (Convento de Santa María de Oreja) in the Langayo township. The convent has been abandoned for more than four centuries. The convent got its name from that fact that it was located in a valley with a shape of an ear (oreja).

Welcome to Convento Oreja

When we visited Convento Oreja we discovered wonderful wines and amazing hospitality.

Wine Tasting, Convento Oreja © Spaswinefood

We gathered around the table for a fabulous presentation on Convento Oreja wines.

Tasting Convento Oreja Wines © Spaswinefood

Convento Oreja wines are varied expressions of Tinta del País grapes, a variety of Tempranillo. We tasted Convento Oreja Roble, Convento Oreja Crianza, and Convento Oreja Memoria Reserva wines.

1. Convento Oreja Roble, DO Ribera Del Duero 2021

Convento Oreja Roble, DO Ribera Del Duero 2021 © Spaswinefood

Convento Oreja Roble, DO Ribera Del Duero 2021 (back label) © Spaswinefood

2. Convento Oreja Crianza, DO Ribera Del Duero 2019

Convento Oreja Crianza, DO Ribera Del Duero 2019 © Spaswinefood

Convento Oreja Crianza, DO Ribera Del Duero 2019 (back label) © Spaswinefood

3. Convento Oreja Memoria Reserva, DO Ribera Del Duero 2018

Convento Oreja Memoria Reserva, DO Ribera Del Duero 2018 © Spaswinefood

Convento Oreja Memoria Reserva, DO Ribera Del Duero 2018 © Spaswinefood

Tasting Convento Oreja wines was a perfect way to end the day's wine travels.

Convento Oreja Wines © Spaswinefood

Besides tasting Convento Oreja Roble, Convento Oreja Crianza, and Convento Oreja Memoria Reserva from their new releases, the wine lineup included older vintages for comparison, a 2012 Crianza and a 2004 Crianza.

4. Convento Oreja Crianza, DO Ribera Del Duero 2012

Convento Oreja Crianza, DO Ribera Del Duero 2012 © Spaswinefood

Convento Oreja Crianza, DO Ribera Del Duero 2012 (back label) © Spaswinefood

5. Convento Oreja Crianza, DO Ribera Del Duero 2004

Convento Oreja Crianza, DO Rivera Del Duero 2004 © Spaswinefood

Convento Oreja Crianza, DO Rivera Del Duero 2004 (back label) © Spaswinefood

Tasting a Convento Oreja Crianza, DO Ribera Del Duero 2004 was a perfect ending to the tasing.

In The Glass: Convento Oreja Crianza 2004 © Spaswinefood

Besides tasting those awesome wines that afternoon we also visited the vineyard and toured the winery briefly.

Tank Room, Convento Oreja © Spaswinefood

Discussing Winemaking at Convento Oreja © Spaswinefood

Barrel Room, Convento Oreja © Spaswinefood

Special thanks to our wonderful host for sharing Convento Oreja wines with us.

Ribera del Duero Wine Country

Indeed, I had come to experience today's Ribera del Duero first hand. Over three days, we visited a variety of wineries, ranging from boutique to large scale producers. In addition, our foodie adventures included enjoying traditional to modern style cuisine. Convento Oreja was a special part of our vine-filled explorations.

One Spring Time Afternoon: Convento Oreja Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Ribera del Duero DO is located in northern Spain's Castilla y León region. There on the northern plateau of the Iberian Peninsula, along the sides of the Duero River, the wine region occupies the southern plains of Burgos province, extends west to Valladolid, and into parts of Segovia and Doris provinces. The appellation received DO status in 1982. In 2008, it was approved for Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status however, it never pursued this classification, so it remains a DO appellation. It is one of Spain's best red wine regions. It is known for its Tempranillo (Tinto Fino), which is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec, up to 25 %. The appellation is almost exclusively red and rosado (rosé) wines. To be recognized as DO,  its red wines must contain a minimum of 75 % Tempranillo. No more than 5 % Garnacha or Albillo, in total, may be added. Its Rosado wines must have a minimum of 50 % of the authorized red varieties. The white wine produced, mostly for local consumption, is Albillo. DO regulations require at least 75 % of Albillo grapes be used.

Spring time was great timing to checkout the wines, the cuisine and admire the landscape, dotted with poppies. During my springtime visit many times we passed the historic castle on the hill overlooking Peñfiel.

Ribera del Duero Wine Country © Spaswinefood

Historic Castle, Ribero del Duero © Spaswinefood

Convento Oreja, Ribero del Duero is where the wine is oh so great and a dream is born  I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to more vine-filled explorations in Spain. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

May 2023

Ribera del Duero, Spain 

© Spaswinefood

Spring Vines, Convento Oreja © Spaswinefood

Table Ready, Convento Oreja © Spaswinefood

Spring Time Poppies, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

Poppies, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

Spring Time, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

NOTE: Ribera del Duero Wine Styles 

The following styles of wines include: 

Joven or barrica. These wines cannot age for more than 12 months. 

Crianza. The wines must stay at least 12 months in oak barrel and cannot be released before 24 months.

Reserva. The wines undergo 36 months of aging and at least 12 months in oak barrels.

Gran Reserva. The wines undergo 60 months aging, at least 24 months.

The names used are similar to those of other Denominaciones in Spain however, the specifics may vary.

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