Our Great Northern Adventure: New York State's Finger Lakes Wine Country

We began our Great Northern Adventure (US Highway 2 (US 2)) in Maine. Just in case you are wondering US 2 is an east–west United States Numbered Highway, covering 2,571 miles (4,138 km) across northern continental United States. From Maine we traveled along US 2 through New Hampshire, Vermont and into New York State. After visiting New York's Thousand Islands Winery we took a detour to return to the Finger Lakes. Since our wine supplies were running low, a two night stop-over in the Finger Lakes was in order. I was indeed quite happy to return to the Finger Lakes. This time we stayed at Seneca Lake State Park. For sure we did Seneca Lake winery explorations. We also drove to Keuka Lake to visit Dr. Franks Winery. We concluded our stay with a dinner at Knapp Restaurant.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, Keuka Lake © Spaswinefood

Returning to New York's Finger Lakes was a special treat. Yes, I was fortunate to spend both memorial day and a late June 2021 weekends in the Finger Lakes Wine Country. Here's why Finger Lakes Wine Country is so special. This wine region has become well known for its world class Riesling. Finger Lakes Riesling wines come in different styles (still, sparkling and ice wine), with a range in sweetness levels (from sweet to dry). There is a Finger Lakes Riesling for every palate. Besides Riesling, this region also produces Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, as well as wines from French-American and native grape varieties. I still vividly remember when Spaswinefood first visited the Finger Lakes in Upstate New York in August 2015. Since then I discovered so many good things about this wine region, I just had to return. Once you put some Finger Lakes Riesling in your wine glass it is hard to resist. 

Finger Lakes Riesling in the Glass © Spaswinefood

Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area)

New York State's Finger Lakes American Viticultural Area (AVA), established in 1982, is centered around eleven glacial lakes, with the majority of vineyards located near Canandaigua Lake, Cayuga Lake, Keuka Lake, and Seneca Lake. When you find yourself in the Finger Lakes, it is a wine region filled with amazing opportunities for adventure. Wines from the Finger Lakes AVA in Upstate New York from the different lake areas have been described as having distinct flavor profiles. This has been attributed to the unique viticultural characteristics of each area. In fact the Cayuga and Seneca Lake areas are distinct enough to have their very own AVA's. 

Finger Lakes, New York © Spaswinefood

Wine Adventures in the Finger Lakes, NY
Some have compared the Fingers Lakes to Germany's Rhine region because of the similarity in growing conditions. The Finger Lakes, a cold climate wine growing region, is home to over 100 wineries, now  producing wines from Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, as well as French-American and native grape varieties. The Finger Lakes has become well known for its world class Riesling. I first visited wineries in the Cayuga Lake, Keuka Lake and Seneca Lake areas in 2015. Fortunately summer 2021 I was able to revisit. Both times, not only was I able to enjoy Finger Lakes wines, but also the equally tempting local food scene. This post will feature vignettes from three areas (Cayuga Lake, Keuka Lake and Seneca Lake).

Vino Taxi, Finger Lakes, NY © Spaswinefood

1. Cayuga Lake

A vino limo ride across Cayuga Lake on a perfect summer afternoon is hard to beat. Perhaps it is not surprising to discover water taxis on this lake given that Cayuga means "boat landing". Yes, Cayuga Lake Wine Trail adventures are packed with incredible wine, food and scenery. 

Thirsty Owl Wine Co., Finger Lakes, NY © Spaswinefood

Cayuga Lake AVA was established in 1988, as a sub-region within the Finger Lakes AVA. The first Cayuga Lake wineries had their beginnings in late 1970's and early1980's. The number of wineries has grown to over 20 wineries. Most of the wineries are found on the west side of the lake, which provide more favorable growing conditions. In addition to the grape varieties mentioned earlier, you will also find grapes, such the Cayuga grape. The Cayuga grape was bred specifically for this region by Cornell University. 

While on the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail in 2015 we visited Thirsty Owl Wine Company where we tasted wines from eight  members (Toro Run Winery, Cayuga Ridge Estate Winery, Homer Winery, Lucas Vineyards, Bellwether Hard Cider and Wine Cellars, Americana Vineyards and Six Mile Creek Vineyard). Later at the Goose Watch Winery in Romulus, under a tent in the vineyard,  eight member wineries offered select tastings (Treleaven by King Ferry Winery, Long Point Winery, Montezuma Winery & Hidden Marsh Distillery, Swedish Hill Vineyard, Varick Winery & Vineyard Vineyard, Knapp Winery and Buttonwood Grove Winery). Our final stop was at Knapp Winery where a team of chefs (Chef John McNabb, Knapp Vineyard Restaurant, Chef Lindsay, Crystal Lake Café at Americana Vineyards and Chef Scott, The Bistro at Thirsty Owl Wine Co.) prepared the most amazing dinner for our group.

Knapp Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Indeed, when I returned summer of 2021, I had to enjoy a Thirsty Owl Riesling. How could I not?

Thirsty Owl Wine Company,  Riesling 2019 

Thirsty Owl Wine Company,  Riesling 2019 © Spaswinefood

And YES, a Goose Watch Riesling, and others too! We also ate lunch twice at Knapp's Vineyard Restaurant.

Knapp's Vineyard Restaurant, 2021 © Spaswinefood

2. Keuka Lake

One of the highlights from my earlier 2015 visit to the Finger Lakes was a series of mystery dinners at local wineries. Nothing compares to an escape to wine country for a mystery dinner. The bus we hopped on took us to the Keuka Lake Wine Trail, which was celebrating their 30th Anniversary. Our outing took place at the Manor House. All eight Keuka Lake Wine Trail members (Barrington Cellars, Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars, Heron Hill Winery, Hunt Country Vineyards, Keuka Spring Vineyards, McGregor Vineyard, Ravines Wine Cellars, and Vineyard View Winery) participated in the event.

That evening began with tasting a Riesling wine from each of the wineries.

Keuka Lake Riesling Showcase, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

Dinner was served on the Manor House veranda, with stunning views of Keuka Lake. Celebrity Chef Brud Holland used locally sourced, seasonal ingredients to prepare dinner. There at Manor House overlooking Keuka Lake this Finger Lakes wine and food event perfectly captured the essence of this beautiful wine country setting. 

Summer 2021 I just had to visit Dr. Franks. I had heard so much about this winery that I could not leave the Finger Lakes without visiting. I was not disappointed.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Keuka Lake © Spaswinefood

One of the Riesling wines I tasted was a sparkling wine.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Riesling Nature 2018

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Riesling Nature 2018 © Spaswinefood

I was delighted to visit Dr. Franks and look forward to writing a post on that visit. 

Seneca Lake Wine Trail © Spaswinefood

3. Seneca Lake

Seneca Lake American Viticultural Area (AVA) was established in 2003. It is a sub-region within the larger Finger Lakes AVA because of its uniqueness. Seneca Lake, the deepest of the Finger Lakes, contributes to the climatic conditions around the lake. The result is a longer growing season, plus protection from the freezing winters in Upstate New York. Given the unique viticultural characteristics within the Seneca Lake AVA the wines have been described as having their own distinctive flavor profiles. 

Villa Bellangelo, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

Summer of 2015 I arrived in the Finger Lakes a day early for a pre-conference trip along the Seneca Lake Wine Trail. Our first stop was at Villa Bellangelo in Dundee for a welcoming reception where we were introduced to Finger Lakes wines and local foods.

Dinner at Ventosa Vineyards, Geneva  focused on Finger Lakes women and wine. The activities included 1) opening remarks by four female winemakers and a female research scientist and 2) a vineyard activity where we did a brixs sampling. Chef Heather prepared the most wonderful dinner, which was served on the patio overlooking Seneca Lake.

Ventosa Vineyards, Geneva © Spaswinefood

Next day we visited Anthony Road Winery, Penn Yan where we toured the vineyard, winery and did a wine tasting.

Anthony Road Winery, Finger Lakes, NY © Spaswinefood

Our last stop was at Fox Run Vineyards, Penn Yan. Here we visited the vineyard and winery, followed by an excellent food and wine pairing.  

Fox Run Vineyards, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

Summer of 2021 I returned to Anthony Road and Fox Run wineries once more. I did wine flight tastings at both wineries.

Anthony Road, Sibling Rivalry Flight

Sibling Rivalry Flight, Anthony Road Winery © Spaswinefood

Amongst the wines I tasted in this flight were Rieslings produced in different styles, without skin contact and with some skin contact (skin fermented), and vintages, etc.

Next, at Fox Run we ate lunch and ordered a number of wine flights. For sure their Riesling wines was on my tasting list. The Riesling flight was a great overview of styles, with the 2016 Rieslings illustrating unique terroir. 

Riesling Flight, Fox Run Vineyards © Spaswinefood

The List, Fox Run Vineyards © Spaswinefood

Besides the Riesling flight there were others to explore, such as a dry flight.

Dry Flight

Dry Flight, Fox Run Vineyards © Spaswinefood

It is always enlightening to do wine flights during winery visits. 

I am always excited to taste Finger Lake wines, especially their Riesling wines. For sure Riesling was not on my wine list until, I discovered the wide range of Riesling wines in the Finger Lakes. Later in Germany's Mosel Valley, and the ClareValley, Australia, another wine region well known for Riesling I was able to develop a deeper appreciation for the amazing range of Riesling wines that are available. For sure after my introduction to Finger Lakes Rieslings in 2015, I became totally jazzed to continue exploring Riesling wines.

Mosel Valley, Germany © Spaswinefood

Visitors planning a Finger Lakes wine adventure will find these websites quite helpful:

1. Finger Lakes Wine Country

2. Finger Lakes Wine Alliance

3. Finger Lakes Tourist Alliance

4. Finger Lakes Wine 

Previously I have described our travels crossed the US, mostly on I-80, to Maine as (Prelude to a Great Northern Adventure). When we reached Maine, given we had time, we explored Maine for about two weeks, before heading back to the West Coast on the Great Northern Route (US 2). Also summer 2021 I was able to revisit  some of my favorite Finger Lakes wineries. I am glad we took a detour from US 2 to revisit Finger Lakes wine country. For sure, both my 2015 and 2021 visits, allowed me to discover what is special about Finger Lakes Wine Country. I invite you to join me in my travels in the Finger Lakes and elsewhere in the sharing of these adventures at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on Bluesky and Facebook. 

CHEERS!!

Sharon

Remembering Summer 2021

Finger Lakes, New York

© Spaswinefood

A Summer Afternoon 2021, Cayuga Lake © Spaswinefood

Atwater Estate Vineyards, 2021 © Spaswinefood

Follow me on Bluesky and Facebook 

See also Thousand Islands Winery

New York's Finger Lakes Wine Trails: Dr. Frank Wines tops my list

My summer 2021 return to New York's Finger Lakes included a visit to Dr. Frank's winery, overlooking Keuka Lake. When you visit this winery you discover, not only why Finger Lakes Wine Country is so special but also, its history. It is because of the effort of pioneers, such as Konstantin Frank that there are now over 100 Finger Lakes wineries, producing wines from Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, as well as French-American and native grape varieties. 

Dr. Konstantin Frank Estate Vineyard, Keuka Lake © Spaswinefood

Dr. Konstantin Frank: Pioneers Grape Growing in the Finger Lakes

Dr. Frank, born in Odessa, Ukraine (once part of the Russian Empire), received his PhD in viticulture from the Odessa Polytechnic Institute. His research focused on techniques for growing Vitis vinifera in a cold climate. After managing a large state-owned vineyard in Soviet Georgia, he came to the United States in 1951. He took a job as a dishwasher in New York City. In 1953 he moved with his family to the Cornell University Geneva Experiment Station. Not long after he would pioneer wine grape growing in the Finger Lakes.

Earlier unsuccessful attempts to plant "Vitis vinifera" varieties in the northern latitudes of North America were blamed on the cold weather. Frank’s extensive experience growing European grapes in the Ukraine, at below freezing temperatures, meant he knew it would be possible using the grafting techniques that he developed. Initially Frank's ideas were ridiculed. No one thought that European wine grapes would grow in Upstate New York. So in 1958 Frank bought a plot of land on the west side of Keuka Lake. His first vintage, a Trockenbeerenauslese Johannisberg Riesling made from botrytized grapes, was released in 1962. This wine region has since become well known for its world class Riesling. Because of Frank's pioneering efforts these days there is much to explore along the Finger Lakes Wine Trails.

Off to Keuka Lake Wine Trail

Early one summer morning we headed to Keuka Lake, stopping for breakfast at the Hall Diner.

Breakfasting, Hall Diner © Spaswinefood

Relaxing on the veranda of the Hall Diner over breakfast was the perfect way to begin the day.

A Perfect Start to the Day, Hall Diner © Spaswinefood

Traveling to Keuka Lake I still vividly remembered my first visit to the Finger Lakes, August of 2015. Because I discovered so many good things about the wine region, I just had to return. Once you put some Finger Lakes wine in your glass it is hard to resist wanting to learn more about this wine region. 

Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area)
The Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area) is centered around eleven glacial lakes, with the majority of vineyards near Canandaigua Lake, Cayuga Lake, Keuka Lake and Seneca Lake. 

Dr. Konstantin Frank Estate Vineyard, Finger Lakes AVA © Spaswinefood

Each of these areas have been described as having unique viticultural characteristics, which result in wines with distinct flavor profiles. This east coast wine region has often been compared to Germany's Rhine region because of the similarity in growing conditions. The Finger Lakes AVA , established in 1982, is home to over 100 wineries. Besides Riesling, the Finger Lakes also produces Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, as well as several French-American and native varieties. During my Finger Lakes visits my focus has been on sampling Riesling wines from Cayuga Lake, Seneca Lake and Keuka Lake. Let's take a close look at Keuka Lake where Dr. Frank's winery is located.

Keuka Lake Wine Trail: Then and Now
Nothing compares to an escape to wine country for a mystery dinner hosted by local Keuka Lake wineries. I still remember that August 2015 evening when the Keuka Lake Wine Trail was celebrating its 30th Anniversary. Our outing took place at Manor House. All eight Keuka Lake Wine Trail members (Barrington Cellars, Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars, Heron Hill Winery, Hunt Country Vineyards, Keuka Spring Vineyards, McGregor Vineyard, Ravines Wine Cellars, and Vineyard View Winery) participated in the event. The evening began with tasting a Riesling wine from each of the wineries.

Keuka Lake Riesling Showcase, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

Dinner was served on the Manor House veranda, with stunning views of Keuka Lake. Celebrity Chef Brud Holland used locally sourced, seasonal ingredients to prepare dinner. There at Manor House overlooking Keuka Lake this Finger Lakes wine and food event perfectly captured the essence of this beautiful wine country setting. Even though we would get to taste other wines over dinner, for me it was the Riesling wines that captured my attention.

During my summer 2021 visit we stopped by Dr. Frank's who not only pioneered wine making in the Finger Lakes but did some much more. Frank, a scientist at heart, after establishing his winery, he planted over sixty different varieties. His efforts would prove to the world that the eastern United States could grow the noble European vinifera grape varieties. After establishing his reputation, he was a consultant to the Gold Seal Winery, a historic winery complex located near Hammondsport in Steuben County, New York, and established a Vitis vinifera grape nursery. 

I just had to visit, I had heard so much about Dr Frank and his winery that I could not leave the Finger Lakes without visiting. I was not disappointed. These days Dr. Franks legacy is cherished in New York. After all, he led the way for Finger Lakes to grow the European grape varieties. In November 2001, Konstantin Frank was inducted into the Wine Spectator Hall of Fame for his outstanding achievements in the field of viticulture.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, Keuka Lake

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Keuka Lake © Spaswinefood

Yes, the winery, founded in 1962, was established before the Finger Lakes AVA (1982). The winery is now 4th generation, with his great grand-daughter, Meaghan becoming an integral part of the team.  It was Konstantin's son, Willy Frank, who became President after his father's death. He surprised some in the industry by introducing sparkling wines made in the traditional methode champenoise technique. He purchased a historic field stone house, then restored it into a sparkling winery and named it Chateau Frank. In 1993, Fred Frank, Konstantin's grandson, succeeded his father as President of Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars. These days great grand-daughter Meaghan Frank, Vice-President is now part of what makes this family winery great.

Let's take a look at the wines. During my visit I tasted a number of Rieslings.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Riesling Nature 2018

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Riesling Nature 2018 © Spaswinefood

I loved this wine!

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Eugenia Dry Riesling 2019 

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Eugenia Dry Riesling 2019 © Spaswinefood

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Riesling 2019

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Riesling 2019 © Spaswinefood

Finger Lakes Riesling wines come in different styles (still, sparkling and ice wine), with a range in sweetness levels (from sweet to dry). There is a Finger Lakes Riesling for every palate. Besides tasting Riesling I tasted other cold climate white wines, such as Grürztraminer and Grüner Veltliner.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Semi-Dry Winter Ferment Grürztraminer 2020

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Semi-Dry Winter Ferment Grürztraminer 2020 © Spaswinefood

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Grüner Veltliner 2019

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Grüner Veltliner 2019 © Spaswinefood

Grüner Veltliner does well in the Finger Lakes.

Let me not forget the other sparkling wines. I enjoyed tasting their 2017 Blanc de Noir.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Blanc de Noir 2017

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Blanc de Noir 2017 © Spaswinefood

Yes, Dr. Frank's does other sparkling wines, such as Blanc de Noir, well.  The winery has been making traditional-method sparkling wines for over 35 years. Moreover Rosé wines are not neglected.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Rosé 2020

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Rosé 2020 © Spaswinefood

For sure this is a most delightful rosé wine. Moreover, the story on the back of the bottle caught my attention.

Dr. Konstantin Frank's Story © Spaswinefood

The story on the back of the bottle is inspiring.

Given Dr. Frank's background it is not surprising that they grow Rkatsiteli, an ancient white grape variety native to the Republic of Georgia, the oldest wine-producing region on earth. It does well in the Finger Lakes given the similar growing conditions. I have been most fortunate to have had this wine in Georgia and Eastern Europe where it is commonly made as a qvevri, or orange wine style.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Rkatsiteli 2020 © Spaswinefood

Besides Riesling, sparkling wines, and cold climtae whites the winery does reds as well. During my visit amongst the red wines that I tasted was a Merlot and Amur.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Merlot 2018 

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Merlot 2018 © Spaswinefood

Given the winery's history of experimenting with grape varieties it is not surprising to discover that they continue to push boundaries by making Amur wine. The Amur grape (Vitis amurensis) is a species of grape native to the Asia. It gets its name comes from the Amur Valley in Russia and China. 

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Amur 2017 © Spaswinefood

I was delighted to have a first hand experience at Dr. Frank's winery. Put this winery on the must visit list. Let the history and the uniqueness of Dr. Frank Wines inspire you. Dr. Frank's influence on today's wine making extends throughout the Finger Lakes and beyond.

Wine Tasting, Dr. Konstantin Frank © Spaswinefood

Your Wine Country Escape to the Fingers Lakes
Before you plan a trip to the Finger Lakes checkout these sources:
1. Finger Lakes Wine Country,
2. Finger Lakes Wine Alliance,
3. Finger Lakes Tourist Alliance, and
4. Finger Lakes Wine.

During my 2021 visit we soon discovered that Dr. Frank's wines are amazing. Dr. Frank's Wines is what is so very special about this wine region. Put some Dr. Frank's wine in you glass; you will experience Finger Lakes Wine Country. It is not just the wines but the story behind the wines. For sure, both my 2015 and 2021 visits allowed me to discover what is special about the Finger Lakes. I invite you to join me in my travels in the Finger Lakes and elsewhere in the sharing of these adventures at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on  Twitter and Facebook. 

CHEERS!!

Sharon

Summer 2021

Finger Lakes, New York

© Spaswinefood

Finger Lakes, New York © Spaswinefood

Follow me on Twitter and Facebook