Toledo was the last in our day tripping excursions from Madrid during our April visit. About 70km, just a hour south of Madrid, Toledo, is a city and municipality in Spain, and capital of the Toledo province in the autonomous community of Castilla-La Mancha. This former capital of Spain is considered the most representative of Spanish culture, and has been described as the historic, artistic, and spiritual center of Spain. We came to visit its historic center, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in1986. Toledo sets on a hill above the plains of Castilla-La Mancha. It is primarily located on the right (north) bank of the Tagus River. Of course we stopped at the Mirador del Valle, to take in those stunning views of the city, which is built upon a steep rock, skirted by the Tagus River. We came to Toledo to see its historical architectural and artistic treasures, and to gain a few gastronomical insights.
From the Mirador del Valle we drove across the bridge to Recaredo Park where we took an escalator up to Toledos Historic Center. It would have been quite a climb otherwise.
Toledo's Historic Center
Toledo's historic center has so many architectural and artistic treasures. When we arrived at the top the escalator we continued onto the historic center. The historic center of Toledo is one of the best places in Spain to appreciate the contrasts and similarities of the three cultures (Christian, Jewish and Muslim) that shaped the country. It is an ancient city which known for the medieval Arab, Jewish and Christian monuments in its walled old city.
Along the way we learn a little about its historic past.
Toledo has many historic plazas, we stopped at Plaza de La Capuchinas.
The Covento de la Purísima Concepcion de Toledo (Capuchinas) at Plaza de La Capuchinas was founded in 1632.
We continued an uphill climb onwards through narrow Calle Tendillas.
We stopped along the way to learn more about Toledo's rich history.
Soon we arrived at Calle Del Archo De Palacio.
Toledo Cathedral © Spaswinefood
The Toledo Cathedral began construction in the early 1200's on the site of what used to be a mosque. Its glittering interiors show influences from the Renaissance, Baroque and Mudejar styles. It houses many amazing things, such as a giant painted wooden altarpiece, intricately carved choir stalls, stained glass windows, classical murals portraying the life of Jesus Christ, and more.
Monstrance by Enrique De Arfe
We crowded into a room to see this impressive piece of metalwork made by Master craftsman Enrique de Arfe at the beginning of the 16th century. According to legend he made it with the very first gold brought to Spain from the Americas. This piece, apart from its historical and artistic value, is very important from a religious perspective. Since the 16th century, it has become a key part of the Corpus Christi parade, which is part of Toledo’s oldest and most iconic festival. The festival usually happens in June.
Monstrance Of Enrique De Arfe, Toledo Cathedral © Spaswinefood
Capilla Mayor (Major Chapel)There are many reasons why you’ll be blown away by the Capilla Mayor (Major Chapel). Perhaps the most obvious is the beautiful altarpiece from the late Middle Ages to the early Renaissance. The cathedral's spectacular altarpiece is real gold on wood, completed by Flemish, French, and local artists. It is one of Spain's best pieces of Gothic art. It is a complex composition that tells the story of Jesus's life.
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| Altarpiece, Toledo Cathedral © Spaswinefood |
Choir Stalls
El Transparente
Toledo Cathedral's El Transparente altarpiece is certainly captivating.
El Transparente, Toledo Cathedral © Spaswinefood
El Transparente (The Transparent), a Baroque altarpiece located in the ambulatory of the Cathedral of Toledo, was created between 1729-1732 by Narciso Tomé and his four sons (two architects, one painter, and one sculptor). A summarized Wikipedia description follows:
The use of light and mixed materials (marble, bronze, paint, stucco) may reflect the influence of Bernini's Cathedra Petri in St Peter's Basilica, Rome. Its name refers to the unique illumination provided by a large oculus opened high up into the thick wall across the ambulatory, and another hole cut into the back of the altarpiece itself to allow shafts of sunlight to strike the tabernacle. This lower hole also allows persons in the ambulatory to see through the altarpiece to the tabernacle, as if it were "transparent".
Obviously, our visit to the cathedral was too brief to capture its many details.
Given my prior references to El Greco then an overview is called for:
El Greco was born in Greece and trained in Venice. He was given the name Doménikos Theotokópoulos. His tongue-tied friends just called him "The Greek"(El Greco). He came to Spain to work as a painter. He found employment in Toledo, where he developed his unique painting style. His style has been described as mixing icon-like faces from his Greek homeland, bold color, and twisting poses from his time in Italy, and almost mystical spirituality from Catholic Spain. Hence the claim that no painter before or since has captured the supernatural world better than El Greco. If time permits a visit to El Greco Museum is a must. After having visited Toledo I can easily see why it became home for El Greco.
You may have noticed in my photos of Toledo a square fortified building with imposing towers sitting high atop a hill overlooking the city. The building is the Alcazar of Toledo, or the Toledo Fortress.
More on Toledo
I have read that Toledo is famous for three things: Swords, Damascene and Marzipan! There are vignettes to share on each.
First, Toledo swords have a long history. Toledo steel forging techniques were developed from ancient customs associated with Iberian Peninsula culture. In ancient Iberia, blacksmiths in Toledo applied their unique methodology forging to the production of falcatas (type of sword typical of pre-Roman Iberia). Numerous tribes of ancient Hispania were known to use these weapons, especially those of southern Iberia. They were designed to inflict wounds thought to be more fatal than other weapons of the time.
During our visit we stopped by Toledo's Damasquinados Suarez where they make swords, shields, knives, jewelry, mini soldiers, and even armor! Founded in 1927, Damasquinados Suarez is a must-visit destination for lovers of exquisite craftsmanship and unique jewelry. John loved visiting this place. Ever since visiting there years ago he has talked about knives from Toledo.
We viewed a demonstration on sword making.
They have authentic and quality Toledo damascene souvenirs, in particular. Damascene jewelry is basically costume jewelry, but still very beautiful and precious to wear. The tradition is to use steel or another metal, engrave it with intricate designs, then hammer silver or gold foil into all the grooves. Damascene jewelry is often depicts scenes with doves, flowers, and geometric shapes. The steel is then oxidized to make it look black, which sets off the inlaid designs. The finer the details, the greater the craftsmanship, and the higher the price. Some pieces cost hundreds of dollars or more due to the labor involved. If the designs are just painted on, then it is "faux" damascene.
Damascene jewelry originated in Syria, and was exported to Spain during the Moorish conquest in the early 700s AD. It was first started in Damascus, and hence its name.
While I was impressed by the city's rich history I still want to share a few insights into its gastronomy. For visitors who would like to check out the wine and food scene Toledo is very worthy. Next, an overview of what Toledo and Castilla-La Mancha wine region has to offer.
Gastronomy of Toledo and Castilla-La Mancha
Toledo is located within the Castilla-La Mancha wine region. Castilla-La Mancha wine region is home to nine Denominación de Origen appellations, including Europe's largest officially delimited wine zone, La Mancha. This viticultural area covers a vast expanse of the central Iberian plateau and occupies almost one half of the large Castilla-La Mancha region. There are more than 190,000 hectares (469,500 acres) of vineyard. The vines are spread over 182 municipalities and four provinces (Albacete, Cuenca, Ciudad Real and Toledo). See Enotourism Spain for a list of top wineries in Toledo province. La Mancha is not only one of Spain's largest wine regions, it is also one of the oldest. Winemaking is thought to have originated here in Roman times, and was certainly widespread during medieval times. The local favorite grape variety in the La Mancha region is the white variety, Airen, which can withstand harsh dry conditions. Tempranillo, locally known as Cencible, is dominating the red variety in the region. Other grape varieties grown in the appellation are: Red: Cencibel, Pinot Noir, Graciano, Malbec, Garnacha Tinta, Moravía Dulce / Crujidera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Mencía, Monastrell, Petit Verdot, Bobal, and Syrah; White: Airén, Moscatel de Grano Menudo, Macabeo / Viura, Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Parellada, Pedro Ximénez, Riesling, Torrontés, Verdejo, Viognier, and Gewürztraminer.
If time permits from Toledo you can visit the heart of Castilla–La Mancha’s wine country, one of the most iconic wine-producing regions in Spain. Here, local bodegas invite you for tastings of bold reds, crisp whites, and the region’s beloved Manchego cheese. Wineries along the Ruta de Don Quijote offer cellar tours, vineyard walks, and even hands-on cooking workshops with traditional dishes, like venison stew. If you’re craving an authentic taste of Spanish terroir with a cultural twist, this wine-soaked detour from Toledo is perfect.
Remember Toledo is famous for three things: Swords, damascene and MARZIPAN! In terms of its culinary scene then MARZIPAN tops the list. The Convent of St Clement supposedly came up with this delectable stuff in the 16th century, when there was a famine on. Almond trees grow like weed in and around Toledo, so the nuns ground up the almonds, mixed them with sugar, and hey presto – marzipan. These days MARZIPAN is sold in dozens of shops across town.
If you have time to explore Toledo’s gastronomy it includes very diverse dishes: Partridge, Carcamusas, Cuchifrito, Pisto Manchego, Garlic Soup, Migas, Trout, Caldereta, Manchego Cheese, Toledan Rice, and Marzipan. Yes, Toledo offers a variety of vegetarian dishes, including vegetable-based stews, tapas, and the famous Pisto Manchego. Certainly from the above list it is the Manchego Cheese that jumps out for me. We have enjoyed this cheese for a long time.
We discovered that Madrid is a great base to explore nearby cities, like Toledo. Besides Toledo last April while in Madrid we also visited Ávila and Segovia. Just as I have suggested for Ávila and Segovia if time permits, visit each for a few days. Extra time in Toledo would allow for discovering both the famous sites and the hidden jewels. The city is even more magical at night, as most monuments are illuminated. Moreover, with all of the day trippers are gone, Toledo is less crowded and more magical at night. From Toledo you can visit the heart of Castilla–La Mancha wine country. I invite you to join me in my wine travel adventures in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Bluesky and Facebook.
April 2025
Toledo, Spain
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