Remembering those vine-filled days in Athens

One June Sunday in Athens, in fact it was our last day before our next morning departure, off we went to meet our friends at Diodos Restaurant, just below the Acropolis for dinner. Time had gone too quickly since we first arrived; so here we were saying goodbye.

One Sunday in June, Athens © Spaswinefood

Last May, I returned to Athens to continue my wine country travels in Greece. This time it was an opportunity to spend time with my sister, Georgia while exploring Greek wine country with my #sistersinwine, Anna Aga (Oenologist) and Evangelie Tseliou (Co-owner Cinque Winebars). Athens is unique in that it is one of the world's major cities with wine country nearby. In fact, the very next day after Georgia and I arrived in late May, we were off to Attica wine country. 

Anna and Evangelie took us to Roxani Matsa Estate, a historic vineyard established in 1878, in Kantza, 15km from Central Athens. 

Anna, Sharon, Roxani, & Georgia, Roxani Matsa Estate © Anna Aga

Roxani Matsa Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

They also took us to Nikolou Winery in Attica where we were treated to the absolute best of wine country experiences.

A Nikolou Winery Welcome © Spaswinefood

Attica is known for producing Greek varieties, such as Assyrtiko, Athiri, Agiorgitiko, Malagouzia and Savatiano. The international varieties produced here include Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Nikolou Winery is located in the cradle of the Savatiano variety. While Savatiano, Attica's pre-dominant grape variety, is well-known for its use in the making of Retsina, Nikolou Winery also uses Savatiano in the making of white wine, sparkling wines, and of course Retsina. During that visit we would get to taste these styles of Savatiano.

Special thanks to our winery hosts, and Anna and Evangelie for making these visits this possible.

Off to Goodbye Dinner with Friends

That June Sunday afternoon we strolled through the plaza towards the Acropolis, checking the map on my iPhone to our meeting point at Diodos Restaurant.

© Spaswinefood

While over the years I have gotten familiar with the general layout of Central Athens, I still need to follow a map on my iPhone for specific locations.

Dinner with Friends, Athens © Spaswinefood

Dinner with Friends, Athens © Spaswinefood

It was a great conversation over mezes and wine. Dining with the Acropolis in the background is truly an inspiring experience. 

The Acropolis at Day's End © Spaswinefood

All good things have end however, so we posed with the Acropolis in the background. During my Athens visits I have discovered that the Acropolis dominates the Central Athens skyline view.

Acropolis from My Breakfast Table © Spaswinefood

A Closer Look at the Acropolis, Athens © Spaswinefood

For sure, whenever I am in Athens, I take advantage of viewing the Acropolis from as many different perspectives as possible. During an earlier walk about I did manage to visit Temple of Hephaestus, and take in the views of the Acropolis from there.

Acropolis, from Temple of Hephaestus © Spaswinefood

Beyond the historical beauty of Athens, with wine country adventures nearby, whenever I am in Athens  Evangelie and Greg (Cinque Winebars) warm hospitality always makes me feel so welcome. Special thanks to Evangelie and Greg for such a wonderful welcome back to Greece. 

Cinque, Athens is a #Winelover's Gem

Some years ago when I arrived in Athens for a #winelover gathering I just happen to connect with a facebook friend who owned a wine bar in Central Athens. Yes, the wine bar was Cinque. Some places are special because of the people. For Cinque it is not just because they are nice but also because they are knowledgeable about the wines and bring a special passion to serving wine at their wine bar. What I encountered on that initial #winelover outing, (Valentine’s Day, February 14, 2016) at the Cinque Wine Bar and Deli was not only great wines and food, but also amazing hospitality from the owners who are both knowledgeable and passionate about Greek wines. If you happen to be in Athens you must visit Cinque Athens. There is a special #winelover magic in the air at Cinque. Those who have yet discover today's Greek wines now is the time.  Now is the time to explore Greek Wines! 

We left Athens the next morning with the most amazing memories. Whether it is dining with a view of the Acropolis at Diodos Restaurant, exploring Greek wines at Cinque Athens (at one of its locations: Psirri, Monastirali, an Acropolis), or off to explore Greek wine country I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Bluesky and Facebook. #SeeYouInGreece

CHEERS!

Sharon

June 2024

Athens, Greece

© Spaswinefood

Dinner, Acropolis at Day's End © Spaswinefood

Goodbye for Now, Athens © Spaswinefood

One Sunday in Athens © Spaswinefood

Perhaps the first wine story began with the Greek god of wine, Dionysus bringing some wine to Goddess Athena at the Parthenon, Athens. Each visit to Greece I am more, and more impressed by Greek wines, produced from both indigenous and international grape varieties. My wine soul is drawn to Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. Greek wines with their impressive history are so exciting to explore. Each time I return my wine world is filled with amazing grape-filled adventures. Whenever I am in Athens, I return to Cinque wine bars where there is always special #winelover magic in the air. For sure each visit to Athens has provided me with the most amazing wine adventures.

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Let Anderson Valley wine country magic unfold: Baxter Winery

Anderson Valley's Baxter Winery is a small premium wine producer of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and some hard-to-find varieties. Usually when planning my wine travels I like to include a variety of wineries, ranging from boutique to large scale producers. I chose to include this small boutique winery because their wines consistently get good reviews. Given its vineyard is located on Anderson Valley's coastal ridge top, they have a tasting room in Philo. So on one September weekend off we went to Baxter's Tasting Room. It just perfect for experiencing the magic of Anderson Valley wine country.

Baxter Tasting Room, Philo, Highway 128 © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Baxter Winery
Baxter Winery, Anderson Valley is located just north of Sonoma County, about a two-and-a-half hour drive from San Francisco or Napa, and roughly 30-45 minutes from Healdsburg. Their website provides the following description of Baxter's approach to wine making:

"Now in his seventeenth year of Baxter wines, Phillip Baxter studied winemaking at UC Davis before spending a six month internship at a winery in Burgundy, France. There he contributed to wines from 33 different vineyards from village to grand cru wines, ranging from Pommard to Gevrey-Chambertin. This experience heavily influenced Phillip’s approach to winemaking - he learnt traditional methods that he continues to use to this day.

Another shaping influence in Phillip’s career is his veteran winemaker father, who he worked alongside for many years and who originally inspired him to enter the winemaking field.

Baxter wines are truly made by Phillip’s own hand, with traditional French cellar techniques such as: a five day cold soak; slow wild yeast fermentation; punchdowns done by hand; a gentle basket press and an extra long aging regime with minimal intervention. We age our wines in 100% neutral French oak barrels to ensure the vineyard and fruit is the focus, not the oak. Our fruit is always hand-harvested and often fermented partial whole-cluster. The craftsmanship and quality shows through in the finished wines.

Phillip met his English wife, Claire, during his university days when they were both studying for a year abroad at the University of Grenoble, France. Their’s is a long winding love story, starting in Grenoble and culminating in their marriage in the Napa Valley in 2010 when Claire subsequently joined the business. They live on the rural ridge top at Baxter Winery and have two young children. Claire works from the winery office running the business alongside Phillip, as well as overseeing the wine club and tasting room, which were her early initiatives. "

Baxter Winery Tasting Room © Spaswinefood

They produce 2000 cases of single vineyard wines (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and some hard-to-find varieties), that are consistently gain excellent reviews. As previously noted their wines are produced using traditional techniques, with neutral oak and wild yeast. 

Since they are only open via appointment on weekends I made an appointment to visit prior to arrival. Upon arrival we chose to do our tasting in the courtyard. We tasted Baxter Winery wines from four single vineyards.

 Tasting Room , Baxter Winery © Spaswinefood

After we settled around a table in the courtyard we were presented with the two whites and the two reds to taste.

We began with the two white wines.

 Baxter Tasting Room: The Whites © Spaswinefood

The white wines were:

1. 2022 Cole Ranch Reisling, Cole Ranch AVA 

2. 2021 Oppenlander Vineyard Chardonnay, Mendocino AVA

 Baxter Tasting Room: The Reds © Spaswinefood

Next, the two red wines were:

1. 2019 Oppenlander Vineyard  Pinot Noir, Mendocino AVA 

2. 2019 Langley Vineyard, Pinot Noir,  Anderson Valley AVA

It was a pleasant tasting, and I picked a bottle of my favorite to go. That September weekend was just perfect for experiencing some Anderson Valley wine magic. I look forward to tasting more of their wines in the future.

Anderson Valley Wine Country

For visitors to Anderson Valley here is a brief overview of the wines from this area. The Mendocino wine region is part of the larger North Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA), one of the largest and diverse wine regions in California. In 2004 Mendocino County voted to become the first county in the United States to become GMO free. This effort was supported by the wineries in the region. It is also important to note that 25% of Mendocino County's wine production is organic, making the county the largest producer of organic wine in California. With the addition of the Anderson Valley AVA in 2017, Mendocino County is now home to 12 AVAs. Anderson Valley AVA petitioned to become an AVA in 1982.The Anderson Valley is known for its (1) organic and sustainable wineries, and (2) world class Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Alsatian-style varietal wines. Anderson Valley’s four most widely planted grape varietals are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, and Riesling. Given Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay do so well here, the Anderson Valley is an ideal place to explore California sparkling wines. Roederer’s Anderson Valley wineries (Roederer Estate and Scharffenberger Cellars) farm about half of all the valley’s vineyard acreage for sparkling wine. Beyond finding a special sense of peacefulness in Mendocino County's Anderson Valley, Roederer has obviously discovered something unique here for producing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 

Those looking to visit a variety of Anderson Valley wineries, ranging from boutique to large scale producers, might want to add one or more of Roederer's three Anderson Valley wineries.  Besides Roederer’s wineries (Roederer Estate and Scharffenberger Cellars), which are sparkling wine producers, their Domaine Anderson specializes in still wines, making it distinct for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. During our last visit we included:

1. Scharffenberger Cellars, a Roederer’s sparkling wine producer

2.  Handley Cellars, Historical (Milla Handley, an Anderson Valley's wine pioneer was more than just a visionary for the remote and rural Anderson Valley, but she also helped put the area on the wine map. Moreover, she was a trailblazer for women in wine). 

3. Husch Vineyards, Historical (oldest winery in the Anderson Valley) 

4. Baxter Winery, Boutique Producer 

Besides a tasting at Baxter Winery, perhaps a visit to one of the historical wineries, and one of Roederer owned sparkling wine wineries would make your day in wine country complete. For further ideas on Anderson Valley wineries to visit see Wine Country Getaways.

Anderson Valley, Mendocino County © Spaswinefood

Of course on earlier wine country travels we have visited Domaine Anderson and others.

Toulouse Vineyards & Winery, Anderson Valley © Spaswinefood

As you travel along Highway 128 these days you will discover world class wineries on the route. I still remember those earlier days driving through the laid back town of Boonville however, in recent years with the the arrival of tasting rooms and restaurants the pace has picked up. Still the pace of life in Anderson Valley is amazingly peaceful. Anderson Valley has become known for its world class Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Alsace-style varietal wines. Anderson Valley’s four most widely planted varietals are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer, and Riesling.

Boonville, Mendocino County © Spaswinefood

Baxter Winery's Tasting Room is just perfect for experiencing the magic of Anderson Valley wine country. This small producer of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and some hard-to-find varieties will not disappoint you in their Vinous offerings.  For a most relaxing visit to California wine country then the Anderson Valley AVA, one Mendocino County's 12 AVAs is an absolute must.  I invite you to join me in my California wine country explorations and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Bluesky and Facebook.

CHEERS!

Sharon

Anderson Valley

Mendocino County, California

© Spaswinefood

Anderson Valley's Foggy Mornings © Spaswinefood

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Okanagan Valley's vinous magic: Black Hills Estate Winery

Sometime ago we sat down with friends at the Okanagan Valley's Black Hills Estate Winery. I still remember that hot summer afternoon when I finally got to taste some long awaited wines. We scheduled a curated wine tasting, which included their iconic Nota Bene. I decided to do a wine tasting here primarily because I had heard so many good things about its Nota Bene wines, and we were not disappointed. 

 Black Hills Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

Black Hills Estate Winery 

Black Hills Estate Winery was founded in 1996, as a joint venture between Peter and Susan McCarrell, and Bob and Senka Tennant. While over the years it changed ownership, today it is part an Ontario-based family run Andrew Peller Limited.

Wine Experience Centre, Black Hills Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

Their Wine Experience Centre, is located on Black Sage Road, 13km north of Osoyoos and 10km south of Oliver. It is nestled within the iconic Double Black Vineyard, with breathtaking panoramic views of Mount Kobau and the South Okanagan. 

Double Black Vineyard © Spaswinefood

In 2011, Black Hills acquired Double Black Vineyard, which is a kilometer south of the original Sharp Rock Vineyard. Both vineyards were originally planted with almost identical clones and rootstock in 1996. The vineyards are located on the Black Sage Bench, which has a microclimate among the hottest, driest and sunniest sites in Canada. The vineyards' terroir has become recognized amongst some of the most exceptional. 

Black Hills Estate Wines

Nota Bene, their signature blend is an age-worthy Bordeaux-style red blend. They produce Bordeaux and Rhone Valley inspired blends such as, Addendum, Per Se, Ipso Facto, Bona Fide, Alibi and Rose, and as well as single variety expressions of Viognier, Chardonnay, Roussanne, Syrah, Tempranillo and Carménère. 

Their first Carménère was released in 2005. It has a following that claims it gets better each vintage. Since the first release of Black Hills Syrah in 2009 this wine has developed a strong fan base. While Nota Bene leads the pack, Black Hills has managed to diversify its wine portfolio so that everyone has a favorite. During our visit we got to taste its Viognier, for instance.

Tasting Black Hills Estate Wines © Spaswinefood

Before our main tasting menu we began with two of their white wines.

Tasty Snacks, Black Hills Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

Amongst the white wines we tasted was a 2021 Viognier.

Black Hills Estate Winery Viognier, Okanagan Valley BC VQA 2021

Black Hills Estate Winery Viognier, Okanagan Valley BC VQA 2021 © Spaswinefood

Black Hills Estate Winery Wine Tasting © Spaswinefood

Next up were five red wines. Amongst the red wines we tasted were 2018 Carménère and 2019 Syrah.

Black Hills Estate Winery Carménère, Okanagan Valley BC VQA 2018 

Black Hills Estate Winery Carménère, Okanagan Valley BC VQA 2018 © Spaswinefood

Black Hills Estate Winery 2018 Carménère & 2019 Syrah, Okanagan Valley BC VQA

2018 Carménère & 2019 Syrah, Okanagan Valley BC VQA © Spaswinefood

We would finish the wine tasting with its Nota Bene wines.

Black Hills Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

We left Black Hills with an appreciation for its wines. Regrettably, their wines are not exported to US. In general we found this to be the case for Okanagan Valley wines. Hence, we have learned to enjoy while there, and bring back a few special ones. 

Black Hills Estate Winery's Wine Experience Centre © Spaswinefood

Where ever our wine travels take us we try to visit to a variety of wineries, ranging from boutique to large scale producers. During our summer visits to the Okanagan Valley we were fortunate to visit Black Hills Estate Winery (Oliver), Gray Monk Estate Winery (one of the 40 wineries within 20-30 minute drive of Kelowna, on Lake Country's Scenic Sip), and Tinhorn Creek Vineyards (Oliver), all three of which are owned by Andrew Peller Ltd.

Our Black Hills visit was part of our exploring the south end of the Okanagan Valley's wine scene. Many of the Kelowna wineries also have vineyards in the Southern Okanagan. The temperature at the south end of the valley is reported to be up to four degrees warmer. This makes it so perfect for grape growing. In fact Oliver, the town at the south end of the Okanagan Valley, calls itself Wine Capital of Canada. 

Okanagan Valley

The Okanagan Valley is where 86% of the British Columbia's vineyard acreage is located. Viticultural regions are defined in British Columbia as areas of Geographic Indication (GI). To be certified as coming from a GI, wines must adhere to VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) standards. There are nine GIs across British Columbia, of which the Okanagan Valley is one. These GIs participate in a Vitners Quality Allicance (VQA), an appellation of origin that is modeled after the European system. An Okanagan VQA certifies a wine is from this region and meets the quality standards. The Okanagan Valley GI has eleven official sub-regions, with each defined by its distinct soil and climate conditions, such as Black Sage Bench. Once you have discovered the Okanagan Valley it will keep calling you back. During our June 2023 visit we concentrated the Southern part of the valley, Summer 2024 we made sure to also visit wineries in/around Kelowna, such Gray Monk Estate Winery ( Kelowna), and Tinhorn Creek Vineyards (Oliver). Southern Okanagan offers the wine traveler some of the very best sipping experiences. In fact, most of the best wines are grow in the South around Oliver and Osoyoos (oh-soy-yoos). For this reason I have focused my efforts primarily around the Oliver to Osoyoos area during my Summers of 2023 and 2024 visits.

Okanagan Valley Wine Country © Spaswinefood

For sure if you are interested in “Vinous Magic” then put the Black Hills Estate Winery, Okanagan Valley on your list. We were not disappointed in their Vinous offerings. Here is some useful travel information to help you plan your wine country getaway to Okanagan wineries. Kelowna, the largest city in the Okanagan Valley is within driving distance from Vancouver (237 miles).  Kelowna’s international airport has direct flights from Vancouver, Victoria, Calgary, Edmonton, Toronto and Seattle. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in the Okanagan Valley and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Bluesky and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my vine-filled explorations in the Okanagan Valley. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

Remembering the Okanagan Valley

British Columbia 

© Spaswinefood

Black Hills Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

Time for Vinous Magic, Black Hills Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

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