Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon: Here's to Romania with Love: One woman's wine journey

Thursday, January 30, 2025

Here's to Romania with Love: One woman's wine journey

Come with me on a wine journey through Romania. Romanian wine country has been on my radar since 2011, that is when I first met Razvan Stoenescu at European Wine Blogger Conferences (#EWBC). Razvan would always show up bringing Romanian wines with him to share. Of course after several invitations to visit Romania we did August 2015. Since that first visit to Romania, I have returned many times. My Romanian wine country explorations have taken me to the Crisana (Miniş), Muntenia (Dealu Mare) and Oltenia (Dragasani), and Transylvania wine regions. Besides these wine country experiences, during my many trips to Romania, I have also been introduced to wines from its other wine regions. Whenever I visit Romania I feel at home. I feel so valued because I am immediately welcomed by the Romanian #winelover community. This post is one woman's wine journey through Romania.

Welcome to Romania © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Romania Wine Country

It is not a surprise to me that Romanian wines are making waves on the world stage. Romania, one of the oldest viticultural regions in the world, has had a long tradition of wine making, dating back 4000 years. Unfortunately, like many Eastern European countries that tradition was stifled under communist occupation. During this time Romania provided cheap low quality wine to meet the demands of the Soviet Union. Given Romania's wine history, its success with indigenous grapes (such as Fetească Neagră, Fetească Alba, Fetească Regala) and international grapes, the wines are now being produced with modern winemaking technology and by talented winemakers. The result is today Romania is an emerging star in the wine world. Mike Veseth writing for the Wine Economist, described Romania as an emerging wine region. An Lonely Planet article also described Romania as the Next I, or wine region to watch.

Transylvania Wine Country, Romania © Spaswinefood

During my visits I have enjoyed exploring wines from Romania's seven wine regions: (1) Transylvania (center of the country), (2) Moldova (north east), (3) Crisana and Maramures (west central and north), (4) Muntenia and Oltenia (south), (5) Banat (west), (6) Southern Sands and Danube Terraces (south) and (7) Dobrogea (south east); with each of these regions containing a number of sub regions. Todate my Romanian wine country explorations have taken me to the Crisana (Miniş), Muntenia (Dealu Mare), Oltenia (Dragasani), and Transylvania wine regions. While I have yet to visit all of the wine regions I have been introduced to their wines.

I will begin my wine journey in Bucharest. This is very appropriate, given whenever my wine travels take me to Romania, I usually begin and/or ended there.

Bucharest: Hello Romania I am Back!

So when winelovers gathered in Bucharest at the end of May 2022 I came to visit Transylvania Wine Country with #winelover friends. When we boarded a plane to Bucharest from Greece I returned to a wine country that I know. My prior Romanian wine country explorations have taken me to the Crisana, Dragasani, Dealu Mare, and Oltenia wine regions. Visiting Transylvania, the birthplace of Fetească Regală (Royal Maiden) grape, and known for its white and sparkling wines, was a must for me. I was excited to explore Transylvania's rich wine history. It was indeed great to be back in Bucharest to continue my Romanian wine country travels.

#Winelovers on Calea Victoriei, Bucharest © Spaswinefood

Before heading out to Transylvania wine country we explored Bucharest a little. An evening walk took us along Calea Victoriei (Victory Way), Bucharest’s oldest, and most charming street. We strolled by the Kretzulescu Church (Biserica Kretzulescu or Crețulescu), an Eastern Orthodox church built in the Brâncovenesc style, which is located on Calea Victoriei, next to the former Royal Palace, now the National Museum of Art. In fact stunning buildings line Calea Victoriei, including the Cantacuzino Palace, the former Headquarters of the Romanian Communist Party, The Military Club, The Savings Bank Palace, and the National History Museum.

Memorial of Rebirth, Revolution Square © Spaswinefood

It felt so good to be back in Bucharest! These days Bucharest is ongoing transformation and change. Bucharest was once known as the Paris of the East. The city lost most of its grandeur during the 20th century due to World War II, one of the most brutal Communist dictatorships in Europe, and 1977 earthquake. The former grandeur is returning.

The Splendor of Calea Victoriei, Bucharest © Spaswinefood

Amid the restoration ongoing is the Novotel.

Novotel, Calea Victoriei © Spaswinefood

Indeed, it was great to return to Bucharest. Being able to reunite with #winelovers friends was so very special too, to say the least. After a brief stay in Bucharest we were off to a master class at Grand Hotel Continental given by Luiz Alberto, #Winelover Founder.

Luiz Alberto, #Winelover Founder © Spaswinefood

Luiz introduced us to an interesting lineup of 10 wines, which we tasted blind in pairs. He added an 11th one, an aged Romanian wine, which we were asked to guess the approximate vintage?

The 10 Wines Tasted Blind Revealed © Spaswinefood

For sure the Grand Hotel Continental is a beautiful setting for a wine tasting. Masterclass wines were from VINARIUM wine contest.

A Closer Look at Wines Tasted © Spaswinefood

It felt so good to be back in Bucharest, as we headed back to our hotel that spring evening.

Into the Night, Historic Bucharest © Spaswinefood

I so enjoyed our evening walk along Calea Victoriei.

Night Time Walk on Calea Victoriei © Spaswinefood

Next morning, we boarded the vans and were off to Transylvania Wine Country.

, Time to Leave Bucharest for Wine Country © Spaswinefood

#Winelover Romania © Spaswinefood

Soon we were heading to Transylvania.

Leaving Bucharest © Spaswinefood

Off we went to Transylvania Wine Country.

1. Transylvania Wine Country (Central Romania)

Why Transylvania Wine Country?

If Transylvania's rich history, cuisine and incredible wines is a surprise, then you need to know that Transylvania has been producing wine for centuries, dating back to the 1600's. While Transylvania has been influenced by its many ethnic populations, the Hungarian and German communities have substantially influenced the local culture, and wine making here. Transylvania is home to five DOC wine regions (Aiud, Alba Iulia, Sebeș-Apold, Lechințan and Târnave), which are located along three river valleys (Târnava, Mureș and Sebeș). The focus of my Transylvanian wine travels was to (1) discover Transylvania wine country, and (2) celebrate the First International Fetească Regală Day on June 3, 2022.

Transylvania Wine Country © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Transylvania Wine Country

My Transylvania wine travels in 2022 took me to Alba lulia, Ciumbrud, Medias, and Sighisoara. It was a long drive from Bucharest to Alba lulia, our first stop wine country stop. I wanted to know more about this region, and I had so looked forward to visiting Transylvania. Based on my prior wine trips to Romania I knew I would experience great wines and food, amazing hospitality, and further insights into the rich diversity of wine throughout the country.

Our Transylvania wine safari was filled with adventure. Along way to Alba lulia we enjoyed a picnic lunch at Castle of the Fairies The Fairy Valley Clay Castle (Castelul Valea Zanelor), Porumbacu de Sus, a village 40 kilometers West of Sibiu. It is a natural area, surrounded by beautiful mountains and green grass. The construction of the castle began in 2014 however, it took a few years to become fully operational.

Castle of the Fairies offers visitors tasty meal options. We ordered a few to go along with our picnic lunch.

Lunch Time, Castelul Valea Zanelor © Spaswinefood

Chief, Castelul Valea Zanelor © Spaswinefood

While ordering lunch I chatted briefly with the friendly chief.

Picnic Lunch at Fairy Tale Castle © Spaswinefood

Of course there was a nice rosé wine to enjoy with lunch.

Picnic Lunch, Fairy Tale Castle © Spaswinefood

Fairy Tale Castle is a beautiful stop for a picnic lunch, or an overnight stay.

Castle of the Fairies, Porumbacu de Sus © Spaswinefood

Such an amazing place, in fact it was quite busy the day we visited with school children on field trips before the start of summer vacation.

From Porumbacu de Sus it was onto Alba lulia where we checked in at Hotel Ave Alba. Our walk to dinner that evening took us by the historic Alba lulia Fortress. We ate dinner at Pub 13, near the Fortress, followed by an introduction to Transylvanian wines with a Sparking Wine Tasting at Vinoteca Hugo.

Dinner, Pub 13, Alba lulia © Spaswinefood

Without a doubt Alba lulia was the perfect first stop. We would continue our Transylvania wine country explorations in Alba lulia, Ciumbrud, Medias, and Sighisoara later. For this wine enthusiast Romania is always an awesome wine adventure. NOROC!

#Winelover.ro Trip May 31- June 7, 2022 © Spaswinefood

Besides being so impressed by Transylvania I will share a little about my earlier wine country experiences in Crisana (Miniş), Muntenia (Dealu Mare) and Oltenia (Dragasani) wine regions.

2. Crisana (West Central and North Romania)

Crisana wine region, located on Romania's western border with Hungary, is an area with a temperate-continental climate, and unique terroir. Wine making here has also had a long tradition. Wines from this region were the favorites of Astro-Hungarian emperors. November 2018 our first stop was Oradea, one of Crisana's major cities, which is buzzing with excitement these days.

Oradea, Romania © Spaswinefood

It was such a beautiful visit to Oredea.

One Evening in Oradea, Romania © Spaswinefood

Our #Winelover Tour of Crisana wine country, began in Oradea with an amazing dinner at the Millésime Association. Prior to this visit I had been seeing Serban Sincai's posts on wine tasting in the cave, and so upon arrival in Oradea I said I must visit the cave. His response was you will be dining there tonight.

#Winelovers Visit Millésime © Spaswinefood

Over dinner that November evening we were introduced to outstanding Romanian wines. The gastronomic evening was hosted by Oradea's Millésime Association.

Next day, I visited Crisana's Miniş DOC. It is believed that some of the best wines within the Crisana' region come from the historic Miniş wine district.

Miniş
Western Romania's Miniş DOC (Controlled Designation of Origin) wine appellation is where we were introduced to Miniş DOC white, rosé and red premium wines, made with local and international grape varieties. Mustoasa of Maderat, and Cadarca, two local grape varieties, were amongst the wines we tasted during a tasting with Pivnitele Birauas, Crama Daiconi, Castel Emilly, and Cramele Miniş. Our #winelover finale, with Miniş DOC boutique wineries, was indeed a special treat.

Miniş DOC Winemakers & Owners © Spaswinefood

Miniş DOC is within the Crisana wine region, which is located on Romania's western border with Hungary. Its temperate-continental climate, together with unique terroir, makes the Minis an ideal grape growing area. The area not only has a long grape growing tradition, but also has a significant Hungarian influence, not only historically, but some of its red wines (Cadarca and Pinot Noir) have Hungarian roots.

Vineyard, Pivnitele Birauas © Spaswinefood

After leaving Oradea for the 2018 Rovinhud Wine Show, Timisoara we met up with Miniş DOC winemakers at the Pivnitele Birauas winery. As we drove into the Pivnitele Birauas vineyard, I could not help but notice that the vineyard had already greeted fall's arrival.

Fall Day, Pivnitele Birauas © Spaswinefood

Yes, it was a perfect fall day in the Miniş.

3. Muntenia and Oltenia (South România)

Muntenia and its western neighbour Oltenia cover a large area south of Transylvania. The Muntenia and Oltenia Hills region is largely devoted to red wine, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Fetească Neagră being the most planted varieties. However, white wines are also produced in the region.

3.1 Muntenia's Dealu Mare
Southern Romania's Muntenia wine region, or as it sometimes described the Muntenia hills (Greater Wallachia). Muntenia's Dealu Mare (Big Hill) Vineyards, one of the best known vineyard areas, stretches for 90 km. from Valea Calugareasca (near Ploiesti) to Merei/Vernestin (near Buzau), covering the counties of Buzau and Prahova. Muntenia, home to the renowned Dealu Mare DOC, which often is referred to as Romania’s Tuscany. I have visited the Dealu Mare twice (August 2016, November 2018). This area is widely considered one of the most important in the country, producing both red and white still wines. If you have ever imagined vine-inspired explorations in Romania, then put the Dealu Mare on your list.

Domeniile Tohani Estate, Dealu Mare © Spaswinefood

Our stops within the Dealu Mare vineyards in 2016 were Licorna Winehouse and Domeniile Tohani wineries. From Bucharest we were off to Prahova County to visit Licorna Winehouse and Domeniile Tohani wineries. These wineries are located within a special wine area known as the Dealu Mare.

When the opportunity to return Romania's Dealu Mare wine country in 2018 arose I responded quickly. I did so because on my previous trips to Romania I encountered awesome wines and food, and amazing hospitality. Still, I desired to learn more. I will share highlights from my Dealu Mare travels with #winelover friends.

During our November 2018 travels we visited Kelaru, 1000 de Chipuri (1000 Faces), LacertA, S.E.R.V.E., Davino, Licorna Winehouse, Crama Budureasca, Domeniile Sahateni, and Tohani's newest winery.

Domeniile Sahateni © Spaswinefood

After the 2018 Rovinhud Wine Show in Timisoara we were off to Bucharest. Here we met up with Romania's #Winelover Community Ambassador, Razvan Stoenescu.

Returning to Dealu Mare Wine Country
The Dealu Mare is about an hour's drive from Bucharest. Over the next three days, Razvan took us on a tour of Dealu Mare wine country. Our tour of the Dealu Mare vineyards included Kelaru, 1000 de Chipuri(1000 Faces), LacertA, S.E.R.V.E., Davino, Licorna Winehouse, Crama Budureasca, Domeniile Sahateni - Visinescu Aurelia, and Tohani's Valahorum Mansion and Apogeum Wine Cellar. During our Romanian #winelover adventure I tasted wines made with, indigenous grape variety names like, Fetească Alba, Fetească Regala, and Tămâioasă Românească; and the red indigenous grape variety Fetească Neagră.

The first day began with visits to two smaller wineries.
1. Domeniul Kelaru
Domeniul Kelaru named in 2015, traces its roots to Bunesca Wine Cellars. In 1930's Bucur Bunescu founded the wine cellars, which was known for producing excellent wines. Under communism it disappeared. Fortunately since 2011 rebirth became possible when the winery was able to acquire sufficient vineyards, and began restoring the stone buildings on the property.

#Winelovers tasting Kelaru Wines © Spaswinefood

We began our wine tasting with a Fetească Regala.

Kelaru, Fetească Regala 2008

Fetească Regala © Spaswinefood

Kelaru, Fetească Regala 2008 © Spaswinefood

There was nice aging on this 2008 Fetească Regala.

We tasted two Merlots, vintages 2007 and 2016, obviously capturing some wine history here.
(1) Kelaru, Merlot 2007
(2) Kelaru, Merlot 2016

Kelaru, Merlot 2007 © Spaswinefood

Kelaru, Merlot 2016 © Spaswinefood

These Merlots showcased the region well.

Kelaru, Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Kelaru, Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 © Spaswinefood

I look forward to hearing many exciting things about this young winery.

2. 1000 de Dechipuri (1000 Faces)
During our late evening/early night visit to 1000 de Dechipuri (1000 Faces), another young winery. We heard the story of how this winery became established within a designated grape growing region.

November Vineyard, 1000 de Dechipuri © Spaswinefood

Given though it was dark when we arrived we toured the winery. We tasted some tank samples (I loved the Sauvignon Blanc tank samples that I tasted), and we took a quick look in the barrel room. This was followed by a wine tasting and discussion with the winery owner. Two of the wines I tasted that evening included:

1000 de Dechipuri, Sauvignon Blanc 2016

1000 de Dechipuri, Sauvignon Blanc 2016 © Spaswinefood

1000 de Dechipuri, Shiraz

1000 de Dechipuri, Shiraz © Spaswinefood

1000 de Dechipuri is doing impressive Sauvignon Blanc wines, along with exciting red wines as well.

Over the next two days we continued our Dealu Mare explorations, with stops at the following wineries:

3. LacertA Winery
At LacertA Winery we encountered some of the most delightful wines at one of the Dealu Mare's most beautiful wineries.

LacertA Winery Highlights © Spaswinefood

The morning we arrived at LacertA the nearby town was covered by the morning fog, and the vineyards were barely visible.

Through the Mist, Lacerta © Spaswinefood

Nearby Town, Lacerta © Spaswinefood

Still the vineyards had its own unique November beauty.

November Beauty, LacertA Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Our host welcomed us to the winery.

#Winelover Antics, LacertA © Spaswinefood

After a welcoming wine we did a brief winery tour, and then a tasting.

Wine Tasting, LacertA © Spaswinefood

Even on a chilly November day there was a warm welcome, an insightful winery tour, followed a wine tasting at LacertA Winery. Lacerta, Latin for lizard, takes its name from the a small lizard found in the area. Obviously in November the lizards where nowhere to be seen. Nevertheless, the symbol was proudly displayed at the winery, and on their wine label. I fell in love with the wines from this winery.

4. S.E.R.V.E. Winery
Here we meet with S.E.R.V.E. Aurel Rotarescu, father and son, both winemakers. We did a vertical tasting of S.E.R.V.E. wines. I love being spoiled.

S.E.R.V.E. Highlights © Spaswinefood

What an amazing treat it was to visit S.E.R.V.E., the first privately owned winery established after the revolution. It was founded in 1994 by Count Guy Tyrel de Poix, a French producer who recognized the potential of Romanian wines. Besides S.E.R.V.E. being the first private winery it is also known for a number first in wines. The winery produced the first dry rosé, and first Romanian Cuvée. Both of these first in wine put the emphasis on the production of quality wines.

Earlier at Rovinhud Wine Show we met up with S.E.R.V.E. winemaker, Aurel Rotarescu.

S.E.R.V.E. Winemaker, Aurel Rotarescu © Spaswinefood

At the Rovinhud Wine Show Aurel Rotarescu was named winemaker of the year by his colleagues. Later, I managed to take a photo of Aurel Rotarescu with his son, Silviu.

S.E.R.V.E. Winemakers © Spaswinefood

Little did I know that I would also be tasting wines with them in a few days at S.E.R.V.E. Winery. What an honor it was!

Tasting S.E.R.V.E. Wine with the Winemakers © Spaswinefood

5. Davino
It was a most delightful visit to Davino. After discovering their wines a few years ago it was indeed special to visit.

Davino Highlights © Spaswinefood

Even on a chilly November afternoon there was a warm welcome to Davino from Dan Balabar, winery owner. This was followed a tour of their new facility with the winemaker, Bogdan Costachescu.

A Glimpse into Davino's Future © Spaswinefood

I totally appreciated seeing their new facility, surrounded by vineyards, with its amazing views.

A Wine Discussion with Davino Winemaker © Spaswinefood

When we returned to their main facility we did a wine tasting. I could not help but notice the beautiful art in the tasting room. My understanding is that Davino is a great supporter of Romanian artists. Art work is not only displayed at the winery, but also artists have designed their wine labels as well.

Davino: Where Art & Wine Mix Well © Spaswinefood

What an amazing treat it was to visit Davino, and taste their wines. Their flagship red and white wines are blended wines. They also produced single varietal wines from two of Romania's popular indigenous grapes, Fetească Albă, and Fetească Neagra. Davino's emphasis is on the production of fine wines, and hence their focus is on establishing a benchmark for quality.

6. Crama Budreasca
We toured Crama Budreasca with Stephen Donnelly, winemaker.

November Vineyards, Crama Budreasca © Spaswinefood

After a very quick walk to take a peek at the vineyards on that cold November day, we toured the winery.

#Winelovers Tour Crama Budreasca © Spaswinefood

Barrel Room, Crama Budreasca © Spaswinefood

The present facility is one of the newest (opened in 2013), and largest wineries in the Dealu Mare.

Crama Budreasca Highlights © Spaswinefood

After touring their state of the art facility, we did a tasting of Budreasca wines. Based on my experience tasting their wines I can see why Crama Budreasca is known for its award winning wines.

7. Tohani's Valahorum Mansion and Apogeum Wine Cellar
We ended our day with a visit to Tohani's beautifully restored Valahorum Mansion and the Apogeum Wine Cellar.

Tohani Moments © Spaswinefood

It was impressive to see this beautifully restored facility, and to be introduced Tohani's Apogeum, a limited edition of Fetească Neagra wines.

Tohani's Apogeum Wine Cellar © Spaswinefood

Tasting Tasting, Tohani's Valahorum Mansion © Spaswinefood

I loved discovering these wines and this amazing facility. Yes, there are beautiful apartments here too, with plans for a new tourist hotel, which should be popular with enotourists.

8. Licorna Winehouse
We had the most delightful visit to Licorna Winehouse with winemaker, Gabriel Lacureanu.

Licorna Winehouse Highlights © Spaswinefood

For me it was awesome to return to Licorna to learn more about their wines.

Licorna Winehouse Highlights © Spaswinefood

We tasted an amazing lineup of wines.

Tasting Licorna Winehouse Wines © Spaswinefood

We ended the tasting on a sweet note with:

Licorna Winehouse, Tămâioasă Românească

Licorna Winehouse, Tămâioasă Românească © Spaswinefood

Yes, we were spoiled here.

9. Domeniile Sahateni - Visinescu Aurelia
Our final winery stop, before returning to Bucharest, was indeed a warm welcome to Buzau County. The winery is owned by oenologist Aurelia Visinescu and her associate. Aurelia Visinescu and her staff were on hand to greet us. It was a perfect November morning for #winelovers.

Domeniile Sahateni Highlights © Spaswinefood

Spending time with Visinescu and her staff was indeed special. Also, this is the place to be spoiled.

Visinescu Aurelia, Domeniile Sahateni © Spaswinefood

Aurelia Visinescu has more than 20 years in wine making, and has become well known both within and outside Romania. She studied horticulture and ended up working for a wine export after the 1989 revolution. This peeked her interest in wine, such that she went abroad to South Africa and Australia for wine making internships. After learning to make wine in a New World style she decided to blend both worlds, new and old. In 2003 she and a partner, established Domeniile Sahateni.

Domeniile Sahateni Winemakers © Spaswinefood

In 2010 she established her own brand, Aurelia Visinescu. With an emphasis on quality the winery produces a range of wines in various styles. Anima is their premium wine, which is produced in limited editions, only when the grapes are in their best years.

#Winelovers, Domeniile Sahateni © Spaswinefood

It hard to beat the hospitality of Dealu Mare wine country. At the wineries we visited the winemakers generously shared their time with us. In an area known for its red wines the Dealu Mare is also producing amazing white wines. The Dealu Mare is a wine area to watch, as its wines are already making waves on the world stage.

One November Morning, Dealu Mare © Spaswinefood

I was totally impressed with Dealu Mare wines. I knew of their reputation for red wines however, watch out for their white wines. I tasted some stellar Dealu Mare white wines. Spaswinefood's previous adventure in Southern Romanian had included Licorna Winehouse and Domeniile Tohani wineries. I was indeed most fortunate to return to the Dealu Mare in 2018, not only to experience the seasonal changes, but also to see its growth within the last two years.

Domeniile Tohani Estate, Dealu Mare © Spaswinefood

I would like to thank Razvan Stoenescu, #Winelover Romania for organizing this amazing vine-filled adventure, and all the wineries we visited for being such wonderful hosts.

#Winelovers, Dealu Mare 2018 © Spaswinefood

When I say put Romania's Dealu Mare on your list I am not the only one saying this. An article by Lonely Planet lists the Dealu Mare as one of Romania's wine regions to watch.

#Winelover Romania On Tour, 2018 © Spaswinefood

3.2 Off to Oltenia

It was was a magical evening with #winelover friends when we gathered in Timisoara, Romania on the eve of our Oltenia Wine Tour. #Winelovers met in Timisoara after the 2017 Rovinhud Wine Show for the official kick-off of a wine tour through Oltenia. Our wine country adventure began with dinner at Enoteca Amphora Restaurant. Whenever the #winelover community comes together it is a time for old and new #winelover friends to share their passion for wine. That evening in Timisoara was no exception. As you say in Romanian Noroc (Cheers)!

Winelovers, Timisoara, Romania © Spaswinefood

It is hard not to continue learning about Romania's indigenous grape varieties.

#Winelovers Kick-off

#Winelover's Noroc, Timisoara © Spaswinefood

We shared a few wines that evening.

Noroc: This time with a Red Wine © Spaswinefood

We did order some tasty dishes for dinner.

Noroc, Noroc © Spaswinefood

It was a delightful evening at Enoteca Amphora. Joining our Romanian fiends that evening were #winelovers from Hungary, Netherlands, and the United States. Two of our Romanian friends who were traveling all day joined us at the end of dinner. There were a few more #winelover friends who joined us in the morning. The evening ended with a short walk back to our hotel.

Timisoara at Night, Romania © Spaswinefood

Next morning, we were off on our #winelover Olentia Wine Country tour. Our first stop was Mosia Galicea Mare.

3.2.1 Mosia Galicea Mare

Cool breezes were sweeping across the vineyard when #winelovers arrived at Mosia Galicea Mare, the first winery stop on our Oltenia Wine Tour. This Spaswinefood adventurer immediately felt at home given the winery owner was there to greet us. Weather wise it was certainly nothing to cause alarm. It was after all mid-November in Romania, a time of the year when most winery activities are typically held inside.

Galicea Mare, Dolj County, Romania © Spaswinefood

The winery owner not only greeted us but also introduced us to the regional gastronomy of Dolj County.

Owner, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

We began with a tour of the new wine cellar/tasting room area under construction in an historic brick building.

Touring Galicea Mare's Reconstruction © Spaswinefood

Reconstruction at Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

My understanding is that the winery is on the site of an historic site/landmark. After viewing the reconstruction we viewed some of the production side of the winery's operations.

Galicea Mare Tank Area © Spaswinefood

While touring I did manage to also catch a glimpse of the November vineyards. My understanding is that some accommodations are available at the winery.

November Vineyard, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

A Gastronomic Introduction to Dolj County
Later we settled into a wine tasting with local food. It was the most delightful fall picnic.

Ready for Galicea Mare Wines © Spaswinefood

The winery is located in an area rich in tradition. The reception area was setup with delightful local foods to sample. The owner delighted in showcasing the local foods along with his wines.

Showcasing Local Cuisine, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

Here are some of the wines that I tasted.

Galicea Mare, Tămaioasă Romanească 2016 © Spaswinefood

Tămaioasă Romanească, a Romanian native grape variety, produces a most delightful white wine.

Galicea Mare, Chardonnay 2016 © Spaswinefood

One of the red wines included red cuvée.

Galicea Mare, Cuvée Rosu 2016 © Spaswinefood

The Cuvée is a Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend. It was exciting lineup of Galicea Mare wines. Yes, there was a Fetească Neagra, a Romanian native red grape variety.

Welcome to Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

The winery also produces Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Italian Riesling, and Rose wines.

Just outside the reception area more wines and food awaited us.

Galicea Mare Wines © Spaswinefood

Bread and Wine, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

The food displays were quite colorful.

The Art of Presentation, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

The meat lovers were not disappointed.

The Perfect Mix, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

Capturing the Fork, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

Let me not forget the breads and cheese.

Local Bread, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

Bread Waiting, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

The Art of Cheese, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

While the menu served included meat our hosts were quick to accommodate any vegetarians, and those needing a gluten free diet.

Inviting Peppers, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

Colorful and Delicious, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

Delicious Potatoes, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

It was such an inviting place to explore the local foods and wine. Their colorful displays and presentation was no accident. There is eye for gastronomic details here.

Galicea Mare Gastronomic Delights © Spaswinefood

Gastronomic Delights, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

I was not the only one who captured those food and wine moments at Galicea Mare.

Food and Wine Moments, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

Time with Friends
I loved the relaxing atmosphere at Mosia Galicea Mare. As I write this article I cannot help but think about how special it is to spend time with friends. Those times always pass too quickly.

George Wine, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

#Winelovers, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

Romania's Wine Ambassador © Spaswinefood

I loved capturing some beautiful images of our visit to Mosia Galicea Mare, the first stop on our Olentia #winelover tour. Not only was it a welcoming introduction to Olentia wine country but also after traveling for over four hours from Timisoara we were happy to relax over lunch with wines.

A Wine Sherif Welcome, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood

3.2.2 Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea

I first visited Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea in 2015; so returning to Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea, with #winelover friends on our Oltenia Wine Tour 2017 was indeed extra special. Segarcea means the land of dream.

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea (second visit)

Returning to Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea, Romania with #winelover friends on our Oltenia Wine Tour was indeed special. Segarcea means “the land of dream”. This area has certainly lived up to its name over time. Segarcea, one of the twelve domains created by parliament in 1884 during the administration of Carol I, King of Romania, prospered under the Royal House. They established a winery, and planted 60 grape varieties in 300 hectares of vineyards. In 1929 Segarcea was granted the right to produce Controlled Denomination of Origin (DOC) wines. Their wines became highly prized internationally, wining gold medals in Paris in 1936.

Return to Domeniul Coroanei © Spaswinefood

August at Domeniul Coroanei © Spaswinefood

I still remember Spaswinefood's visit to Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea in August 2015. It was an awesome introduction to Romania’s wine world; so the opportunity to return November 2017 with #winelover friends was indeed the best of dreams.

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea: Challenges and Dreams

The domain during Communist rule underwent a period when productivity was more important than quality. The winery went downhill. In fact this time has been described as a period of decay. Fortunately in 2002 Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea was taken over by the Anghel family, Romanian entrepreneurs. Today the domain is in good hands and happy dreams have returned to this historic property. The Anghel’s are committed to both (1) restoring and preserving royal values, and (2) achieving the highest quality of wine making in Romania. We were able to get a glimpse of this during our #winelover visit.

Returning to Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea in 2017 certainly brought back memories of my 2015 visit.

Driving into Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea, 2015 © Spaswinefood

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea Vineyard în August 2015 © Spaswinefood

We drove through the expansive vineyards, then toured the winery, and tasted the wines.

Domeniul Coroanei Vineyard View, 2015 © Spaswinefood

Vineyard of Dreams, Domeniul Coroanei 2015 © Spaswinefood

Land of Dreams, Domeniul Coroanei 2015 © Spaswinefood

It is hard to beat those autumn colors at Segarcea in 2017. I could not resist taking a peek at the vineyards.

Domeniul Coroanei Vineyard, November 2017 © Spaswinefood

November Vineyards, Domeniul Coroanei © Spaswinefood

Without doubt their expansive vineyards are awesome to visit any time of the year.

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea Wines

Our Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea wine tasting included wines made with international grape varieties, and Romanian indigenous grape varieties.

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea Wines © Spaswinefood

Some of the wines that I tasted made with international grapes included white wines, such as Pinot Gris, Viognier and red wines (Cabernet Sauvignon and Marselan). Marselan is an international grape variety, which is a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache.

Some of the wines that I tasted were made with Romanian indigenous white grapes, such as Fetească Albă, and Tămâioasă Românească.

Domeniul Coroanei, Fetească Albă © Spaswinefood

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea, Tămâioasă Românească 2013 © Spaswinefood

There was also a white wine blend, Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea, Onoare.

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea, Onoare © Spaswinefood

Onoare, Romanian for honor, is a blend of Fetească Albă, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Gris. It is from their Minima Moralia brand series. Minima Moralia and Vardo are two of Domeniul Coroanei special brands.

Domeniul Coroanei, Vardo Patima Serii © Spaswinefood

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea, Minima Moralia, Gratitude 2008 © Spaswinefood

From Minima Moralia brand I tasted 1) Hope, a dry rosé wine produced from Pinot Noir, with skin contact maceration Pinot Gris and barreled Cabernet Sauvignon time; and 2) Gratitude made with Cabernet Sauvignon. The Vardo Partim Serii, Flame of the Night wine that I tasted was a dry red wine, made with Fetească Neagră, a Romanian indigenous red grape.

It was an exciting lineup of Domeniul Coroanei Wines.

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea Wines © Spaswinefood

Before the wine tasting we visited the tank room.

Sisters in Wine, Domeniul Coroanei © Spaswinefood

There are regular sized tanks and some very large tanks.

Tall Tanks, Domeniul Coroanei © Spaswinefood

We also took a peek in the barrel room.

Barrel Room, Domeniul Coroanei © Spaswinefood

It certainly was a pleasure to have visited this winery twice. For now let me reflect briefly on our Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea, the land of dreams, where great wines have returned. Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea, like many Romanian wineries, is undergoing an exciting rebirth.

After a very pleasant and informative visit at Domeniul Coroanei we continued our #winelover explorations along the Oltenia Wine Route. We would spend the night at Avincis in the Dragasani, the Napa Valley of Romania. That delightful evening over dinner we were introduced to Dragsani wines.

3.3 Dragasani

The Dragasani, a wine-producing sub-region in Oltenia, known for its high-quality wines, which are characterized by their grace and finesse. The Dragasani is one of the best known wine areas in Southern Romania. I was indeed most fortunate to return to the Dragasani in 2017, after my first visit in 2015. Without doubt given its amazing viticultural history, distinct native grape varieties, modern wineries, and such talented, inquiry focused winemakers the future of Dragasani is indeed promising.

3.3.1 Avincis

We, #winelovers and citizens of the world, gathered around the table at Avincis that November evening to explore Dragasani wines. Our #olteniawinetour included an overnight stay at Avincis, a key player in Dragasani’s rebirth. Romania's Dragasani has had a long tradition of wine making. Cristiana Stoica and her husband Valeriu established Crama Avincis in 2007 to continue a family tradition. Today Avincis is a symbol for the revival of Romanian wine.

Wine Tasting, Avincis Winery © Spaswinefood

While sitting there I briefly reflected on an earlier August visit with #winelover friends to Avincis winery.

Top Views from Avincis Winery, August 2015 © Spaswinefood

Ghislain Moritz, oenologist, a graduate of the University of Dijon, was our host during our 2015 visit. Moritz has since returned to France to start his own winery in Alsace. He is now a consulting oenologist at Avincis however, Alina Profir joined Avincis in 2016 assumed the wine making role.

Top Views from Avincis Winery, November 2017 © Spaswinefood

Avincis: A Place of Rebirth

Avincis winery designed by Alexandru Beldiman is a stunning, modern winery that is well integrated into the surrounding landscape. The winery sits, like a ship, on the Dobrusa Hill surrounded by a spectacular vineyard of 40 hectares. In fact the vineyard covers the hill and extends into the surrounding valleys. The family manor has been restored in the Brancovenesc style, of the beginning 20th century. Moreover, welcomed news for the enotourist is that Avincis offers accommodations at its Vila Dobrusa.

August, Avincis Vineyard © Spaswinefood

During our November visit we toured the winery, did a wine tasting, and dined in the restaurant. I also could not resist revisiting the vineyard.

#Winelovers Touring Avincis © Spaswinefood

Avincis Vineyard in November © Spaswinefood

Late August 2015, Avincis Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Crama Avincis's spectacular Dobrusa Hill vineyard includes indigenous grapes varieties, such as Tămâioasă Românească, Negru de Drăgăşani, Fetească Regală and Crâmpoşie Selecţionată. Whereas the international grapes varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Muscat Ottonel. Great care was taken in planting these varieties in specific vineyard locations to maximize their growing conditions.

Harvest is Near, Avincis August Vineyard, 2015 © Spaswinefood

A Time for Wine and Food
Our evening at Avincis began with wine tasting from Dragasani wineries. Romania's Dragasani, an area that has had a long tradition of wine making, has much to offer these days. We began the wine tasting with Domeniile Mennini wines. This was followed by Domeniu Dragasi, Crama Bauer, Crama Avincis.

Domeniile Mennini, Cubule

Domeniile Mennini, Cubule 2016 © Spaswinefood

Domeniile Mennini, Cubule 2016 (backlabel) © Spaswinefood

Domeniile Mennini, Cubule Wines © Spaswinefood

These wines brought back memories of Spaswinefood's 2015 visit to Domeniile Mennini.

Domeniu Dragasi
Domeniu Dragasi, a new winery shared some of its first vintages.

Domeniu Dragasi © Spaswinefood

Domeniu Dragasi, Pelerin Cabernet Franc 2015 © Spaswinefood

Crama Bauer
I always enjoy tasting Crama Bauer wines. Every time I taste these wines I appreciate their uniqueness.

Crama Bauer Wines © Spaswinefood

Crama Bauer, Cabernet Sauvignon © Spaswinefood

During an earlier visit to Crama Bauer Spaswinefood soon discover that it is a Dragasani winery to watch. Located right next door to the historic Stirbey Wine Estate, Crama Bauer and Crama Stirbey share something in common. The one thing that both of these wineries have in common is winemaker, Oliver Bauer. Bauer is the winemaker at both wineries. Bauer joined Stirbey in 2003. Recognizing the potential for the area he and his wife Raluca started their own winery in 2012.

Oliver Bauer Sharing Bauer Wines, Crama Avincis © Spaswinefood

Crama Avincis
Some of the wines shared by Crama Avincis were:

Crama Avincis Sauvignon Blanc 2016 © Spaswinefood

Crama Avincis Red Wine Blend 2013 © Spaswinefood

Alina Profir, a rising star at Avincis, was the host for our 2017 visit.

Other Dragasani Wines
Amongst the other Dragasani wines available for tasting were Domeniile Samburesti and Crama Cepari wines.

Special thanks to the Dragasani wineries that brought wines to share. After the wine tasting we ate dinner.

Avincis is indeed a delightful place for wine tasting and dining.

I enjoyed our Dragasani wine tasting with #winelover friends. Over dinner that evening we tasted more wines. During our Avincis stay we sampled wines both during the wine tasting and during dinner. Obviously, the wines made with the local grape varieties, like Crâmpoşie Selecţionată, Fetească Regală, and Negru de Drăgăşani were the ones that made my day.

Avincis, Crâmpoşie Selecţionată 2015

Avincis, Fetească Regală Pinot Gris 2013

Avincis, Negru de Drăgăşani 2012

Dragasani wines were highly regarded in Europe until the communist occupation. While that tradition was stifled under occupation, since the 1989 revolution clearly the Dragasani has undergone a rebirth. The region it is already establishing a track record of award winning wines at national and international levels. It is well on its way to achieving its dream of putting Romanian wines back on the international map of wines.

Avincis: A Showcase for Dragasani Enotourism

Avincis a stunning, modern winery that is well integrated into the surrounding landscape. Moreover, welcomed news for the enotourist is that Avincis offers accommodations at its Vila Dobrusa.

During our November visit we toured the winery, did a wine tasting, and dined in the restaurant. I could not resist checking out the vineyard.

Avicis and the Dragasani is always a delight to visit.

Dragasani visitors have discovered that Avincis is well equipped for wine tourism. I would highly recommend Avincis Vila Dobrusa, as a place to stay.

After the Dragasani our #winelover travels took us to Vinarte Bolovanu, their Samburesti estate in Olt County.

3.4 Vinarte Bolovanu (Samburesti Estate), Olt County

Just as the name Vinarte conjures up beautiful, romantic images of wine in my mind, so do their wines. Romania's Vinarte perhaps had that goal in mind when they chose this name. Vinarte has three wine estates, which are located in Romania's most important wine regions: Samburesti – Olt County, Zoresti, Dealu Mare – Buzau County, and Terase Danubiene – Mehedinti County. It was indeed a pleasure for me to return to Vinarte and learn more about their wines.

Driving from the Dragasani to Bucharest our last winery stop on our #winelover Oltenia Wine Tour was Vinarte Bolovanu. Earlier during Spaswinefood’s travels in Romania we visited Vinarte Bolovanu. The vine-growing region where Vinarte's Castel Bolovanu vineyard is located, is one of the oldest and most beautiful in Romania.

Returning to Vinarte Bolovanu brought back memories of an earlier visit. Both visits were with #winelover friends.

While at Vinarte Bolovanu, an estate of 60 hectares, we toured the vineyard, winery and did a wine tasting with our Vinarte host, Ion Treantă.

Touring a wine estate with #winelover friends is always fun. The Romanian #winelover community goes the extra mile to make visiting #winelovers feel at home. Vinarte's Castel Bolovanu Vineyard specializes in growing Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyard in November was quite a contrast our earlier August visit.

During the August 2016 visit Ion explained the process that is used at Castel Bolovanu Vineyard to produce high quality Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.

I discovered that at Vinarte Bolovanu the grapes are not only carefully grown, but also the wines are aged to perfection. During the cellar tour that we were explained how the wines are carefully aged.

Of course no tour is complete without a visit to the barrel room.

Here we tasted barrel samples of Cabernet Sauvignon. Often when we taste barrel samples during a winery tour the wines are quite young. However, I especially enjoyed tasting these Cabernet Sauvignon wines because there was some aging.

Yes, before leaving the cellar, I just had to take another look out the cellar door onto the vineyard. The light that day created shadows, just like in a painting. It was indeed a Vinarte moment.

Next, it was onto the tasting room, where we discovered more about Vinarte wines. The display of wine bottles with awesome labels caught our attention. Vinarte does indeed conjure up beautiful, romantic images of wine in the mind.

Just take a look at the Vinarte Soare and Vinarte Prince Matei labels for example.

Who can resist having their picture taken.

After a quick tour and an overview of Vinarte Bolovanu, their Samburesti estate in Olt County we were introduced to Vinarte's wines from Terase Danubiene in Mehedinti County.

Vinarte Terase Danubiene Wines
Now I will review the wines we tasted from their Terase Danubiene wine estate.

Of course there were snacks to go with the wines.

Vinarte, Terase Danubiene Wines

The first wine from their Terase Danubiene Estate in Mehedinti County was a Tămâioasă Românească.

Vinarte Tămâioasă Românească

When #winelovers taste wines there are always conversations around the table.

Next wine was Vinarte, Terase Danubiene Negru de Drăgăşani.

Vinarte, Terase Danubiene Negru de Drăgăşani

Then I tasted their Cuvée D'Excellence.

Vinarte, Terase Danubiene Cuvée D'Excellence

Their Vinarte Nedeea wine, a blend of Fetească Neagra, Novac, and Negru de Drăgăşani always impresses me. That day we tasted a 2016 vintage however, I have been most fortunate to have also tasted other vintages earlier, such as 2011.

Vinarte, Terase Danubiene Nedeea 2016

I still remember an earlier dinner at Epoch that included a Vinarte, Nedeea 2011. This is an excellent red wine made with Fetească Neagra, Negru de Drăgăşani, and Novac grapes (slightly different blend than 2016). Try this wine and you will understand why it gets top reviews.

Vinarte, Terase Danubiene Nedeea 2011

The last wine was a Prince Mircea Terase Danubiene Merlot Rezerva, Mehedinti 2013.

Vinarte, Prince Mircea Terase Danubiene Merlot Rezerva, Mehedinti 2013

In addition, during my earlier #winelover visit I tasted two Vinarte Bolovanu Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

The two wines (Soare and Castel Bolovanu) we tasted are part of Vinarte's Collection series.

1. Vinarte, Soare Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
2. Vinarte, Castel Bolovanu Sambusesti Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

These are very good Cabernet Sauvignon wines. I particularly liked the Soare.

Vinarte: Where Wine and Art Mix
While in the tasting room I noticed the display of Romanian textiles and other artifacts.

Yes, Vinarte wines inspire beautiful, romantic images. A poster in their tasting room suggested an artistic connection between winemaking and painting. For me it goes beyond that. Vinarte Bolovanu is where Cabernet Sauvignon hits high notes.

Our Vinarte Bolovanu visit was a first hand experience of seeing where the vines are grown, and aged. This is a example of what it takes to produce premium Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Indeed visiting Vinarte Bolovanu, and tasting Vinarte Terase Danubiene wines was so very special for me.

Did I say having out with #winelover friends is Romania is priceless.

Remembering Grape and Sunflower Fields Forever

Shortly after leaving Vinarte, I caught myself remembering those summer seas of yellow. Fields of sunflowers are common sights along the Southern Romania highways in summer. That earlier August day after leaving the winery, before reaching the main highway back to Bucharest, we passed by fields of sunflowers. Just as sunflowers might inspire artists to paint, I can also see why grapes inspire winemakers.

I also took with me fond memories of the vineyard dogs. While a number of the vineyard dogs always catches my attention during winery visits. Usually at the end of the tour we concluded with a #winelover hangout in Bucharest.

Rovinhud Wine Shows: Remembering Romania, November 2017/2018

It use to be November when I returned to Romania for the Rovinhud Wine Show, an event for heroes of good taste, where I met up with old friends, and made new ones. This wine show is a model of how the wine industry, and other industries that wish to help change prejudices and attitudes towards people with disabilities. Getting to hangout with #winelover friends during those visits.

Each time that I attended Rovinhud I have joined #winelovers on tour, and participated in #winelover hangouts in Bucharest, experiencing great wines and food, and amazing hospitality. Our wine safaris are always filled with adventure.

The 2017 and 2018 Rovinhood wine shows included exhibitors and master classes.

I especially enjoyed dinner at Bella Geza, one of the local wineries. Here we were introduced to their wines over a dinner with local cuisine.

I do believe that Rovinhud Wine Show is a model of how the wine industry, or any industry can help change prejudices and attitudes towards people with disabilities. This is an event for heroes of good taste.

Meeting friends at Rovinhud was the perfect opportunity to reconnect. What is so special about the #winelover community is the opportunity to connect with #winelovers around the world. I have also met #winelovers from Romania at these events.

After the Rovinhud Wine Shows in Timisoara my Spaswinefood adventures in Romania continued. I cannot help but think about how special it is to spend time with friends. Those times always passed too quickly.

YES, all roads eventually lead to Bucharest for #winelover hangouts of course.

It was because of the #winelover community that I have traveled to Romania for the Rovinhud Wine Show, #winelover tours, and the Bucharest Hangouts.

This post was one woman's wine journey through Romania. I would suggest for outstanding wine adventures, plan a trip to Romania. Special thanks to Razvan Stoenescu, George Wine, my Romanian #winelover friends, and all of those wonderful Romanian hosts for making my vine-filled travels so memorable. For sure Romania is for winelovers therefore I invite you to join me in my travels in Romania and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Bluesky and Facebook.

CHEERS!

Sharon

To Romania with LOVE,

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Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon

Thursday, January 30, 2025

Here's to Romania with Love: One woman's wine journey

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Here's to Romania with Love: One woman's wine journey

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