Showing posts with label #WMC22. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #WMC22. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 2, 2023

Modena, Italy: Wine vinegar, fast cars, slow food, and more

When we hit the wine trails in Italy last fall Modena was not on our list. Yes, we know Modena is well know for producing balsamic vinegar. Sure, we have been fans of this vinegar for a long time.  However, we have since discovered that Modena is also home to fast cars and slow food. Before heading to Italy for a wine media conference in Lombardy we decided to add Marche and Umbria to our wine country travel plans. Because of the routes we took we passed through Modena twice; and so on our return to Milan we planned a quick stopover. Our plans were simply to check out the vinegar for which it is so well known.

Modena, Italy: Checking out Balsamic Vinegar © Spaswinefood

Balsamic vinegar is always in our kitchen because we use to make cabbage salads, and the glaze for caprese salads. 

Balsamic Vinegars © Spaswinefood

Given that we visited Modena we just had to checkout the balsamic vinegar production. We discovered that near the hotel there was a producer, Leonardi. Since 1871 the Leonardi family has made vinegars from the grape must of Lambrusco and Trebbiano grapes grown on the Modena hills.

Leonardi, Aceto Balsamico Di Modena IGP © Spaswinefood
Leonardi, Aceto Balsamico Di Modena IGP © Spaswinefood

For further details on balsamic vinegar, and their production visit the Leonardi website.  For sure I have lots to learn about what makes a good balsamic vinegar.

Earlier in Todi, Umbria we were introduced to balsamic vinegar from North Italy.

Plaza, Todi © Spaswinefood
 
In fact seeing balsamic vinegar in Umbria prompted us to make a stop in Modena later.
 
Italy’s Slow Food and Slow Wine Movements
Lombardy is where we began our wine country explorations, followed by Marche and Umbria wine regions. Earlier during WMC22 I attended a session on Italy’s Slow Food and Slow Wine Movements.

Italy’s Slow Food and Slow Wine Movements: In the name of productivity, the ‘fast life’ has changed our lifestyle and now threatens our environment,” wrote Carlo Petrini in the Slow Food Manifesto. In “An Introduction to Italy’s Slow Food and Slow Wine Movements ” join winemakers and wine/food writers for a conversation about what it means to grow food and make wine in a way that’s “good, clean, fair.” Learn how the Slow Food movement led to Slow Wine in Italy, then in the US, China, and beyond. How does a winery to get into the Guide? What is regenerative agriculture? Why is everyone, including Patagonia, talking about it? Is this just more greenwashing or does it make a difference for the planet or the palate? What contributions can we in wine media make to the conversation? Source:WMC22

Italy’s Slow Food and Slow Wine Movements © Spaswinefood

Panel: Italy’s Slow Food and Slow Wine Movements © Spaswinefood

That session served as an introduction for me to Italy's Slow Food and Slow Wine Movements. My notes from that session have been sitting on my desktop until now. Yes, Modena is certainly part of this movement. Then last month on a United Flight I came across an article related to this topic in their inflight magazine.

Slow Food and Fast Cars © Spaswinefood 

The article highlighted an upcoming event May 11-14 and offered some suggestions.

Suggestions for In/Around Modena © Spaswinefood 

The article for sure prompted me to write this post.

Modena: Home to Fast Cars, Slow Food and More

During our brief visit to Modena we stayed at Hotel Real Fini Baia del Rei. It was perfect for a night stopover. We did notice plugins to electric cars, and a Tesla in the back parking lot. As for fast cars, we did not see any.

Electric Car Plugins © Spaswinefood

Overall dining out in Italy is pretty amazing, especially if you stick to local restaurants. In this we lucked out at our Modena hotel because it had a great restaurant.


For a wine that evening we decided on a Lugana wine. 


Ca Maiol, Lugana DOC 2021 © Spaswinefood


This was an easy choice because earlier at #WMC22 in Desanzo del Garda I tasted a Ca' Maiol Molin 2021.

Ca' Maiol Molin 2021 

Ca' Maiol Molin, Lugana DOC 2021 © Spaswinefood

For more on Lugana wines see my earlier post.

For my main plate I choose a mushroom risotto, and John a meat plate.

Mushroom Risotto © Spaswinefood

Meat Plate © Spaswinefood


Then for dessert we chose a fabulous sweet potato pie.


Sweet Potato Pie © Spaswinefood

Dinner was indeed fabulous.

Yes, I knew Modena was known for its balsamic vinegar however, now I know more about the range of vinegars available. Obviously, I realize that we have missed out on developing a full appreciation of Modena, as being home to fast cars and slow food. 


Needless to say, our humble rented car is not one of the fast cars.


Not an Italian Fast Car © Spaswinefood

What I have now learned always be open to new discoveries. For sure Modena, has much more to offer than we experienced in our brief stopover. After breakfast next morning, it was off to Agriturismo Relais Tenuta il Cigno, our last stop, just 25 km south of the Milan Airport. We returned to Lombardy where we began wine country explorations. While in Italy we enjoyed exploring the Marche and Umbria wine regions. I invite you to join me in our wine travels in Italy and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to future vine-filled explorations in Italy. 


CHEERS!


Sharon 
October 2022
Modena, Italy 
© Spaswinefood

One Modena Evening © Spaswinefood 

 Wine Travels, Italy © Spaswinefood

Sunday, April 9, 2023

Dining at the museum: Museo Rambotti, Desenzano

Perhaps you have heard of Night at the Museum however, an evening dining at a museum is perhaps more appealing event. Dinner at the museum was one of our events at the Wine Media Conference (#WMC22), Lake Garda. Our offsite excursion happened at the Archeological Museo Rambotti in Desenzano. Picture yourself in Italy drinking some of the best Italian wines at the Archeological Museo Rambotti. Our evening began with a short tour of the museum famous Lavagnone Plough, the oldest agricultural machine. The Lavagnone Plough represents a revolution in the relationship between man and agriculture, and a significant tool in the essential seasonal cycle of sowing, growing and harvesting. Beside viewing the museum displays our excursion included a Lombardy wine tasting, a Grana Padano cheese tasting, and dinner. 

Grana Podano Cheese Tasting, Museum Rambotti © Spaswinefood

Night at Museum Rambotti

Throughout the conference I loved the opportunities to taste Lombardy wines, such as, our outing to the Museum Rambotti in Desenzano del Garda. We were welcomed with a sparkling wine.

Bottinus Metodo Classico, Garda DOC Brut 

Bottinus Metodo Classico, Garda DOC Brut  © Spaswinefood

Bottinus Metodo Classico, Garda DOC Brut © Spaswinefood

After the welcoming wine we visited the museum displays. Of course the highlight was the Lavagnone Plough.


Lavagnone Plough © Spaswinefood

After viewing the displays, we were introduced to Grana Padano cheeses.

Intro to Grana Padano Cheese © Spaswinefood


Grana Padano Cheese Tasting © Spaswinefood

I enjoyed taking a closer look at the Grana Padano cheeses, and learning about the aging process. 

Grana Padano Cheeses © Spaswinefood

Dinner was planned for the open-air Cloister however, it was a chilly October night night, and so we dined inside. We began dinner with appetizers and white wines. Some of these wines served were:

Tre Noci -Az Agr di Conti Ester, V'in Pinot Bianco, Terre Loraine IGT 2020


Tre Noci -Az Agr di Conti Ester, V'in Pinot Bianco, Terre Loraine IGT 2020 © Spaswinefood

Ricchi, Meridiano Chardonnay, Garda DOC

Ricchi, Meridiano Chardonnay, Garda DOC © Spaswinefood

It was fun exploring the white wines shared at our table.

Dining at Museum Rambotti, Desenzano © Spaswinefood

Special thanks to Giovanna Pradini, our conference host, President of the Lombardy Wine Asociation ASCOVILO, and owner of Perla del Garda, who was always there to help us discover Lombardy wines. For sure our dinner outing to the museum was perfect for me to continue exploring Lombardy wines, meet some of the local producers.

Let me now highlight a few of the red wines shared.

Red Wine Time, Museum Rambotti © Spaswinefood

Amongst some of the Moscato di Scanzo DOCG (Still Red, Passito) wines shared that evening was a Cantina Pagnoncelli Folcieri.

Cantina Pagnoncelli Folcieri, Moscato di Scanzo DOCG 2016 © Spaswinefood

In this case the wine producer was at our table.

 
Francesca, Cantina Pagnoncelli Folcieri, Museum Rambotti © Spaswinefood

 Francesca Introducing Moscato di Scanzo DOCG 2016 © Spaswinefood

Earlier Francesca Pagnoncelli Folcieri of Cantina Pagnoncelli Folcieri participated in a session, Le Donne del Vino: Women wine stories of creativity. At that event she shared a Moscato di Scanzo DOCG 2017.

Women Wine Stories © Spaswinefood

For sure our dinner outing to Desenzano's Museo Rambotti was an evening to remember. Besides viewing the awesome display of the Lavagnone Plough this outing furthered my appreciation of Lombardy wines, and Grana Padano cheeses. I invite you to join me in our wine travels in Italy and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing our vine-filled explorations in Italy. 


CHEERS!


Sharon

Remembering October 2022 
Museo Rambotti
Desenzano del Garda, Italy
© Spaswinefood

Museum Rambotti © Spaswinefood
Archeological Museum Rambotti © Spaswinefood
 Lavagnone Plough, Museum Rambotti © Spaswinefood

Saturday, March 4, 2023

Wine Stories: A special tribute to women of Lombardy

It is Women’s History Month, and I would like to celebrate some of the women who are making history in wine. Women's leadership in the wine world far too often goes unnoticed. My Italian wine travels took me to Lombardy's Lake Garda, which was followed by post conference trip to Oltrepò Pavese. Based on what I experienced the women I met are amongst those leading the way in the Italian wine world.  Here's to women making history in the wine world!

Giovanna Pradini, and Laura Donadoni : Welcome to Lombardy © Spaswinefood

Laura Donadoni (The Italian Wine Gal) introduced Giovanna Pradini (on the left), our Wine Media Conference #WMC22 host, and co-owner of Perla del Garda is President of the Lombardy Wine Asociation ASCOVILO (Associazione Consorzi Vini Lombardi), an umbrella association that represents 13 different winery associations in Lombardy. ASCOVILO partnered with the Wine Media Conference #WMC22 to host the event. 

Giovanna, Perla del Garda  © Spaswinefood


Welcome to Lombardy

Giovanna welcome us to Lombardy, a large and geographically complex region, with 5 DOCG , 21 DOC and 15 IGP titles. Lombardy is home to handful of popular and well-known wine styles including the bright, cherry-scented Valtellina and the high-quality sparkling wine of Franciacorta and Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico. The Oltrepo Pavese zone stands out among these as one of the larger, better-known regions, not only for its sparkling Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, but also for its other wines. Franciacorta, the second of Lombardy's two sparkling DOCG wines, is from the well-regarded vineyards between Brescia and Lake Iseo. One of the regions we explored in 2011 was Franciacorta; so we were very happy to return. While Franciacorta is not a part of ASCOVILO, my understanding is that it maybe in the future.

This article will share stories of the women making history that I discovered during Spaswinefood's recent Lombardy wine country travels.

Valeria, Frecciarossa Winery, Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy © Spaswinefood

Valerie Radici Odero, Frecciarossa Winery

Oltrepò Pavese's Frecciarossa Winery is a place where you will immediately fall under the spell of this amazing place and its wines. I loved this place! Not only was it a beautiful setting with good wines but, our host Valeria also shared with us the winery's story, and introduced us to the family's winery. Her great grandfather, Mario Odero, originally from Genoa, founded the winery shortly after WW 1. He returned to Italy from the UK where he had spent most of his adult life working the coal trade between the UK and Italy. Upon his return to Italy he set his sights on buying property in the countryside. Oltrepò Pavese proved be a rather good decision because he fell in love with its rolling hills and vineyards. Valeria's grandfather, and her mother would continue to develop Frecciarossa over the years. These days Valeria brings her passion to managing Frecciarossa, which has been making wine since 1919. 

Welcome to Frecciarossa © Spaswinefood

During our visit we spent quality time with Valerie.

Giovannella Fugazzo, Castello Di Luzzano

Our first introduction to Oltrepò Pavese Pinot wines was at Castello Di Luzzano. Before wine tasting we toured this historic property. The Fugazzo family assumed ownership of the property in 1990's. Giovannella, our host during the visit, runs the estate. 


Welcome to Castillo Di Luzzano © Spaswinefood


We were first introduced to Oltrepò Pavese at Castello Di Luzzano, with a Magot Pinot Nero (Blanc de Noir), Oltrepò Pavese DOC.


Welcome to Castello Di Luzzano Wines © Spaswinefood

Castello Di Luzzano, Magot Pinot Nero (Blanc de Noir), Oltrepò Pavese DOC

Castello Di Luzzano, Magot Pinot Nero (Blanc de Noir), Oltrepò Pavese DOC © Spaswinefood


Magot means magic; so after tasting this magical bottle of sparkling Pinot Noir we were off to lunch at the Dogana Restaurant and Inn.


Giovannella not only runs the wine estate but also is a talented artist. We saw some of her art works on display during our visit. Her art works are carefully display throughout the tasting room.


Castillo Di Luzzano Tasting Room © Spaswinefood

Castillo Di Luzzano Wine Display © Spaswinefood


 Our visit to Castello Di Luzzano was pure magic. Special thanks to our host The First Lady of Wine.


Daniela Bellani, CA' Di FrarA Winery
When we arrived at CA' Di FrarA Winery we were greeted by Daniela Bellani. She took us on a brief trip to the vineyards before the wine tasting.

Welcome to CA' Di FrarA Winery © Spaswinefood

CA' Di FrarA Vineyard © Spaswinefood

CA' Di FrarA, a family winery, founded in 1905 by Giovanni Bellani in Casa Ferrari (in local dialect Ca’di Frara). This family wine estate is now led by third generation, Luca and Matteo Bellani. Its wine story began when their great-grandfather bought vineyards in a narrow valley. Cà di Frara winery's Luca Bellani, an oenologist, who together with other family members continue to build a bright future. His mother Daniela who, together with her husband Tullio, dedicated their life's efforts to this winery.  The family's efforts have paid off over time, gaining recognition for its quality wines. These days CA' Di FrarA is part of Oltrepò Pavese's new direction in winemaking.

CA' Di FrarA Winery: A Family Winery © Spaswinefood

Located in an area known as The Valley of Rieslings these Ca Di Frara vineyards are well managed to take advantage of the local microclimate and terroir.


Welcome to CA' Di FrarA Vineyard © Spaswinefood


Over the years, through the acquisition of vineyards, targeted clonal selections, cellar expansion, and with the use of new materials and winemaking techniques this has resulted in quality wines. Lombardy's CA' Di FrarA winery produces an excellent representation of Oltrepò Pavese wines. Daniela has been a big part of making this happen.

 Wine Tasting, CA' Di FrarA Winery © Spaswinefood

Patrizia Torti, Torti Wines

It was day's end when we arrived at the Torti family winery, Casaleggio. Torti Winery founded in 1910 has a long tradition of producing Oltrepo Pavese wines. Dino Torti and his daughters, Patrizia and Laura, continues the family tradition of winemaking, which was established by Dino's father and grandfather. Little did we know, we were about to discover that no one spoils you quite like Torti Wines does. 

Soon we were gathered around a table being introduced to Torti family wines.

Welcome to Torti Wines © Spaswinefood


The first wine up for discussion was Hello Kitty. Undoubtedly, you may have heard of the Hello Kitty brand. Well, Torti Wines has been producing since 2007 Hello Kitty wines by Sanrio License. 

The Torti family are fabulous hosts. No one spoils you quite like Torti Wines does. Oltrepò Pavese's Torti Wines is a very special Italian wine country find. Hello Kitty, Route 66 and others know this well. After the tasting there was an introduction to the cellar, and then it was back upstairs where we would taste an amazing wine.

Dino Torti, Gran Carisma Pinot Nero Metodo Classico DOCG

Gran Carisma Pinot Nero Metodo Classico DOCG © Spaswinefood

Patrizia concluded our visit to her family winery with a special bottle of sparking wine, a Gran Carisma DOCG Pinot Nero Metodo Classico Dino Torti. 


Dino and Patrizia, Torti Winery © Spaswinefood


The above wine is an excellent example of the Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG sparkling wines. The Oltrepò Pavese, as one of the larger regions of Lombardy, is known not only for its excellent sparkling Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG wines, but also for its other wines. Oltrepò Pavese is home to stunning landscape. Torti Vineyards are a part of that welcoming vineyard landscape.


Chandelier Moments at Torti © Spaswinefood


Patrizia's passion for Torti Wines meant we were treated to a first class experience. We went off into the night to meet with more producers. 

Cristina Cerri Comi, Tenuta Travaglino

Amongst our winery producers that evening was Cristina Cerri Comi from Tenuta Travaglino. Ms Comi is fifth generation of the Comi family to manage the winery. My understand she is the first female in the family to assume leadership. Cristina is well qualified, with a degree in Economics and Business, Bocconi University, and a Masters in International Business Management, LUIC University. In 2013, after gaining experience abroad in Hong Kong, Sidney and Madrid, she took over the management of Tenuta Travaglino.

Thank you Tenuta Travaglino © Spaswinefood

Dinner was a great way to meet producers whose wineries we could not visit. On the second evening I happen to sit next to a young woman who is managing Tenuta Travaglino.

Wine Producers Making History © Spaswinefood
That evening I enjoyed chatted with her about the future Tenute Travaglino, and the wines that were introduced.

Tenute Travaglino, Barbera Campo Dei Ciliegi Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018

Tenute Travaglino, Barbera Campo Dei Ciliegi Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood


Barbera wine is made from Barbera grapes (85-100%) and other varietals to a maximum of 15%.  It is produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Barbera DOC. 


Tenute Travaglino, Mercantonio Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC 2019

Tenute Travaglino, Mercantonio Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC 2019 © Spaswinefood
 
Oltrepò Pavese red wines (Rosso) produced from a blend of Croatina (25-65%), Barbera (25-65%) and other varietials (Uva Rara, Ughetta and Pinot Nero) to maximum of 45%. These wines are produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Rosso DOC.

Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino, Conte Vistarino

We visited Conte Vistarino where we toured the winery, and then gathered around the tasting room table to explore their wines. While we did not met today's owner Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino, it was obvious that she is leading the winery in a new direction.

Wine Tasting, Conte Vistarino © Spaswinefood


The Giorgi di Vistarino Family, since the mid-15th century has owned a large agricultural estate in the Rocca de’ Giorgi municipality of Oltrepò Pavese. Throughout the estate’s history the link between viticulture and terroir has been maintained, and as well they focused on preserving the landscape and wildlife. In 1850, Count Augusto Giorgi was the first person to plant Pinot Noir in the Oltrepò, later giving rise to Oltrepò Pavese’s great sparkling wine tradition. From the beginning to the current generation, led by Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino, the wine estate's vision remains the same: to better interpret the noble grape variety (Pinot Noir) by pursuing the highest quality while respecting the territory and its vocation.


Conte Vistarino © Spaswinefood

In the 1990s Ottavia's father, Carlo Giorgi di Vistarino, introduced new Pinot Nero rootstocks and clones. These were carefully selected for red wine vinification, and precise production characteristics. During the last 25 years, after careful evaluation of the individual plots, more than half of the vineyards have been replanted. Major changes in both the vineyard and winery has resulted in the production of high quality wines. Based on the Conti Vistarino wines I tasted, and from what I have read Conte Vistarino under Ottavia's leadership is in good hands. She is one of the Le Donne del Vino (The Women of  Wine) who taken charge in the wine world.

Le Donne Del Vino: More on the Women of Lombardy Wine County

A #WMC22 session Le Donne del Vino titled Le Donne del Vino: Women wine stories of creativity. A Blind Tasting Discovery Session  sponsored by Ascovilo with speaker Laura Donadoni (The Italian Wine Gal). Panel opened with Donatella Cinelli Colombini, President of Le Donne Del Vino (Video). A panel discussion followed with Cristina Scarpellini of Tenuta Scerscé, President of Fondazione ProVinea, and Francesca Pagnoncelli Folcieri of Cantina Pagnoncelli Folcieri, President of Consorzio del Moscato di Scanzo, and moderater Luciana Rota from Oltrepò Pavese Consortium.

Discovery Session: Le Donne del Vino  © Spaswinefood

Cristina Scarpellini, Francesca Pagnoncelli Folcieri, and Laura Donadoni © Spaswinefood

I not only had the opportunity to attend this session but also met women winery owners and/or in leadership positions throughout the conference.

Museum Rambotti, Desenzano © Spaswinefood

Giovanna Pradini, our conference host, President of the Lombardy Wine Asociation ASCOVILO, was always there to help us discover the faces behind the Lombardy wines. One example is the dinner outing to the museum there were some wine producers at our table. Amongst some of the Moscato di Scanzo DOCG (Still Red, Passito) wines shared that evening was a Cantina Pagnoncelli Folcieri.

 
Francesca, Cantina Pagnoncelli Folcieri, Museum Rambotti © Spaswinefood

Earlier Francesca Pagnoncelli Folcieri of Cantina Pagnoncelli Folcieri participated in a session, Le Donne del Vino: Women wine stories of creativity. At that event she shared a Moscato di Scanzo DOCG 2017.

Women Wine Stories © Spaswinefood

Some of the best women in wine stories were shared around the lunch and dinner tables throughout my Lombardy travels.

Stories of Frecciarossa, Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood

A special tribute to women making wine history in Lombardy, Italy. I left Lombardy with stunning images and wine stories etched into my wine travel memory. I so look forward to sharing more on our vine-filled explorations in Lombardy. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Italy at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. 


CHEERS!

Sharon
Remembering October 2022
Lombard, Italy 
© Spaswinefood

Chasing Wine Stories into the Oltrepò Pavese Nights © Spaswinefood

Always a pleasure to return to Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles

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