Athens is one of the world's major cities with wine country nearby. I have always thought that perhaps the first wine story began with the Greek god of wine, Dionysus bringing some wine, maybe Attica wines, to Goddess Athena at the Parthenon, Athens. These days, nearby, Attica wine country is known for producing Greek varieties, such as Assyrtiko, Athiri, Agiorgitiko, Malagouzia and Savatiano. The international varieties produced here include Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Attica is the cradle of the Savatiano variety. While Savatiano, is well-known for its use in the making of Retsina, it also does well in the making of white wine, and sparkling wines. In this article I will highlight three Attica wineries.
Winelovers, Kokotos Estate © Spaswinefood
May 2024 I returned to Athens to continue my wine country travels in Greece. This time it was an opportunity to spend time with my sister, Georgia while exploring nearby Attica wine country with my #sistersinwine, Anna Aga (Oenologist) and Evangelie Tseliou (Co-owner Cinque Winebars). We visited Roxani Matsa Estate, and Nikolou Winery. Meanwhile earlier when the winelover community held their 10th #Winelover Anniversary Celebrations in Greece June 10-13, 2022 we visited Kokotos Estate, a boutique family winery in Stamata, in East Attica. Both Anna Aga and Evangelie Tseliou also played a role in organizing the 2022 visit.
Let's discover why Roxani Matsa Estate, Nikolou Winery, and Kokotos Estate are three must visit Attica wineries.
Roxani Matsa Estate
Roxani Matsa Estate, a historic vineyard established in 1878, in Kantza, is 15km from Central Athens. Roxani reclaimed her family's heritage and tradition in 1976 by establishing her own vineyard. Her wine estate is part of the original land her family cultivated for 150 years. Roxani Matsa Estate is where you will, experience amazing hospitality, and discover its fascinating history and wines.
Touring Roxani Matsa Estate © Spaswinefood
Roxani Matsa Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood
While this historic Attica estate is located, in an area known for its Savatiano, in recent times however, this area has seen experimentation with various international and other Greek varieties. Presently Savatiano, Roditis, Assyrtiko, Syrah, Malagouzia, and Sauvignon Blanc are cultivated on this estate.
Welcome to Roxani Matsa Estate
When we arrived at Roxani Matsa Estate we were treated to the absolute best of wine country experiences. There is no comparison to be spoiled in Greece. We were not only welcomed but treated like family.
Welcome to Roxani Matsa Estate © Spaswinefood
We did a guided tour with Nikolas. While touring the vineyard we introduced to the estate's rich history. The history of this estate is the stuff that books are written about, and movies made.
Touring Roxani Matsa Estate © Spaswinefood
At the end of the vineyard tour we returned to a picnic spot under the tree.
Of course, we would get to enjoy the delicious goodies in the picnic baskets.
Picnic Time, Roxani Matsa Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood
One of the highlights of our visit was, we had picnic in the vineyard! Connecting with this historic vineyard over food and wine gave me a sense of this very special place.
Picnic, Roxani Matsa Estate © Spaswinefood
We enjoyed fresh strawberries, cherries, bread sticks, dried nuts, with spanakopita, sandwiches, and dessert.
Spanakopita, Roxani Matsa Estate © Spaswinefood
Time for a Picnic Lunch, Roxani Matsa Estate © Spaswinefood
On top of all the food there were two amazing bottles of wine (a Malagousia, and a very limited production 2022 Syrah without sulfate, only 2845 bottles were produced). We began with a Malagousia.
Roxani Matsa Estate Malagousia, Attica 2022
Roxani Matsa Estate Malagousia, Attica 2022 © Spaswinefood
After being introduced to an amazing Malagousia there was a limited edition Syrah.
Roxani Matsa Estate Syrah, Attica 2021
Roxani Matsa Estate Syrah, Attica 2021 © Spaswinefood
Of course Anna was happy to share the wines with us.
Time for Syrah, Roxani Matsa Estate © Spaswinefood
Yes, there was dessert.
Sweet Time, Roxani Matsa Estate © Spaswinefood
Our picnic in the vineyard was a paradise on earth experience for us. The landscape, the facilities, the hospitality, and the food and wine, everything was perfect. I highly recommend you visit, if you love wine, and getting to know one of Greece's wine stories with a rich history. Roxani has worked hard to preserve and continue in her family's wine making history, by creating her own estate. Roxani Matsa is truly a wine pioneer.
Thank You Roxani Matsa Estate © Anna Aga
Thank you Roxani Matsa Estate for your warm hospitality and sharing your estate's wine history with us!
Nikolou Winery
Nikolou Winery, a family winery located in Koropi, a historical winemaking area, is just 40 minutes away from central Athens. Our visit to Attica's Nikolou Winery was an absolute delight. We arrived at Nikolou Winery around mid-day where we were treated to the absolute best of wine country experiences.
A Nikolou Winery Welcome © Spaswinefood
I visited with my sister, Georgia, and my #sistersinwine, Anna Aga (Oenologist) and Evangelie Tseliou (Co-owner Cinque Winebars) who organized our visit to Attica (Attiki) wine country. While Savatiano, Attica's pre-dominant grape variety, is well-known for its use in the making of Retsina, Nikolou Winery also uses Savatiano in the making of white wine, sparkling wines, and of course Retsina. During our visit we would get to taste these styles of Savatiano.
Welcome to Nikolou Winery
Vassilis Nikolou is a key player in the winery's success. He was born in1962 in Koropi, where the Nikolou family traditionally engaged in vine producing traditionally draft retsina from Savatiano. Vasilis Nikolou grew up in this environment. He went onto achieving a Bachelor in Food Technology (1983), and a BSc Degree in Chemistry (1987), followed by postgraduate Oenology studies. Since 1992 he has been Lecturer at the Department of Oenology and Beverage Technology, TEI Athens, educating new generations of Oenologists. Anna Aga was one of his students.
In 1991 Vassilis took over the family winery and established an oenological laboratory onsite. Vassilis and his wife, Rania Skliri, have two children: Evangelos Nikolou (graduate from Agricultural University of Athens) and Christina Nikolou (graduate from Democritus University Law School). Vassilis and Rania have mentored their children to continue the family's winemaking tradition.
After we arrived we sat down with Vasilis and Evangelos Nikolou. They shared with us an overview of the winery's history, and introduced us to some their ongoing wine projects. During this conversation I learnt that Nikolou Winery was awarded by CEUCO Best European Winery 2018.
Conversation with Vasilis and Evangelos Nikolou © Spaswinefood
Best European Winery 2018, Nikolou Winery, Greece © Spaswinefood
Sitting around the table at Nikolou Winery I got a sense of the passion behind this family winery.
Wine Conversations, Nikolou Winery © Spaswinefood
Next, we did a tour of the winery, which included a video presentation, a stop in the lab, and we were also introduced to ongoing wine projects.
Nikolou Winery's Lab © Spaswinefood
Discussing Nikolou Winery's Sparkling Wine © Spaswinefood
After the tour of the winery we sat down to taste their wines.
Wines Tasted, Nikolou Winery © Spaswinefood
Before the wine tasting began each of us was given a plate of food to accompany our wines.
Tasting Plate, Nikolou Winery © Spaswinefood
Let's take a closer look at the wines.
Nikolou Winery, Savatiano, PGI Attica
Nikolou Winery, Savatiano, PGI Attica © Spaswinefood
Nikolou Winery, Savatiano Fine Lees, PGI Attica
Nikolou Winery, Savatiano Fine Lees, PGI Attica © Spaswinefood
Nikolou Winery, Savatiano Yellow, PGI Attica
Nikolou Winery, Savatiano Yellow (on the right), PGI Attica © Spaswinefood
Nikolou Winery, Botanic Base, PGI Attica
Nikolou Winery, Botanic Base (on the right), PGI Attica © Spaswinefood
Nikolou Winery, Botanic Sparkling White Wine
Nikolou Winery, Botanic Sparkling White Wine © Spaswinefood
All of the above Savatiano wines were produced in different styles. Let's not forget Savatiano, the pre-dominant grape variety in Attica was well-known for its use in the making of Retsina. Retsina has undergone a revival in Greece and wineries are now adding it to their wine portfolio.
Evangelos Nikolou's Wine Project, Kodra Recina © Spaswinefood
Earlier, when we toured the winery we were introduced to their approach to making Retsina. Evangelos introduced his special wine project "his baby" it is a Retsina.
Nikolou Winery, Kodra Recina © Spaswinefood
Nikolou Winery, Retsina in the Glass © Spaswinefood
We always like to toast to/with the wines shared. Yamas!
Yamas, Nikolou Winery © Spaswinefood
My #winesister, Evangelie describe this wine tasting as Savatiano mon amour !! . I am inclined to agree with her description. Given the rich diversity of Savatiano wines we tasted it clearly showcases a love for Savatiano.
Nikolou Winery's Savatiano Wines © Spaswinefood
Of course there was dessert.
Dessert, Nikolou Winery © Spaswinefood
Dessert was paired with a sweet wine.
Tasting Sweetness, Nikolou Winery © Spaswinefood
Savatiano mon amour !! There is no comparison to be spoiled in Greece.
Besides producing Savatiano wines, the winery uses grapes from 1) Mesogaia (a region within Attica) to make Savatiano and Mandilaria Rose wines, 2) Limnos to make Moschato Alexandrias, 3) North Attica to make Malagouzia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and 4) Nemea mountains to make Agiorgitiko. Naturally, wether I am in Greece, or at home I love having Greek wines on the table. For me, Greek wines made with indigenous grape varieties are amongst the most exciting. For sure Greece is at the top of my wine list for its unique grape varieties. Greece is where my wine soul feels at home.
The following TripAdvisory's description of Nikolou Winery is an excellent summary of what we experienced:
Our passion for quality winemaking and innovation has been passed on intact. As one of the few remaining traditional wineries in South-eastern Attica, we are opening our doors for guests from all around the world to enjoy a personal and educational winetasting. At our winery, you can learn about our history and traditional wine production. Also, you will be able to have a piece of in-depth knowledge about sparkling winemaking and enjoy your winetasting with traditional flavors made fresh by our family. You can combine your visit with other activities all over Attica, or even stop for a refreshing winetasting experience right before/after leaving for/arriving at El. Venizelos Airport (10 minutes away).
Thanks Nikolou Winery © Spaswinefood
Special thanks to Οινοποιείο Νικολού/Nikolou Winery for the warm hospitality! Nikolou Winery is a winery with all family members engaged. Later at checkout I met Christina Nikolou who is engaged in the legal and business side of winery operations. Since visiting I have discovered that Rania Skliri manages the winery's social media. This is a family winery where all is contributing to its success.
Ktima Kokotos
Ktima Kokotos, a lovely estate surrounded by nature, is just 23 km north of Athens. When the winelover community held their 10th #Winelover Anniversary Celebrations in Greece June 10-13, 2022 we visited Kokotos Estate, a boutique family winery in Stamata, in East Attica. There we met up with Anne Kokotos. Kokotos is truly beautiful estate, which I was delighted to visit given I had tasted their wines on prior occasions. They produce amazing wines that showcase a sense of place.
Kokotos Estate, Attica © Spaswinefood
There once was thousands of hectares of grapes planted in Attica, which was Greece’s most important wine-producing region at the turn of the 20th century. From the mid-1960’s onwards most of them disappeared, as the city expanded in all directions. The problem was further compounded by the fact that land ownership was divided into thousands of plots, leading to many grape growers to abandon viticulture altogether. Moreover, when the Athens airport relocated in 2001 to its current location in Spata, more than 1,800 hectares of vineyards were sacrificed in the process. However, fortunately this was offset by a decree ruling that all the surrounding land will remain farmland indefinitely. This saved a large part of Attica’s vineyards.
Welcome to Kokotos Estate © Spaswinefood
Welcome to Kokotos Estate
This beautiful wine estate is located on the northern slopes of Mount Pendeli, where in ancient times the god of wine, Dionysus was worshipped. Upon arrival at the winery we were greeted by Anne Kokotos who, along with her husband, George founded their winery in 1980's. After exchanging greetings we were off with Anne to explore the vineyards, and check out the wine cellar.
#Winelovers Explore Kokotos Estate © Spaswinefood
The estate’s seven hectares, are spread over a hilltop on the north eastern slopes of Mt Pendeli. From the hilltop there are views of the Attic basin, and on a clear day you can see as far as the island of Evia. By the time we arrived back at the tasting room it was clear to me that Anne Kokotos brings not only passion but also, an expertise to wine production at their family winery. Clearly, the walls at the entrance to the tasting room highlighted the many awards for their wines however, there was one plaque that caught my attention. It was the recognition of Anne Kokotos as being the best sommelier in Europe in 2002.
Winelovers Tasting Kokotos Estate Wines © Spaswinefood
Kokotos Estate Wines
The estate is known for its elegant and sophisticated wines. During the tasting we tasted the following wines:
Kokotos Estate Wines © Spaswinefood
Wine Tasting, Kokotos Estate © Spaswinefood
It is not surprising to me that Kokotos Estate produces wonderful wines given a world class sommelier founded her home here.
Earlier Kokotos Estate Wine Memories
Visiting Kokotos Estate and tasting their wines brought back earlier wine memories for me. I would like to note that my first introduction to Kokotos Estate wines at Cinque Wine Bar, Athens in 2016. The two wines (one white and one red) that I tasted were:
1. Savatiano G. Kokotos 2014
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| Savatiano G. Kokotos 2014 © Spaswinefood |
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Savatiano G. Kokotos 2014 © Spaswinefood
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This well made Savatiano was a wonderful first introduction to Kokotos Estate wines. Savatiano, the pre-dominant grape variety in Attica was well-known for its use in the making of Retsina. However, when Savatiano is a well made white wine, it has status in its own right.
Kokotos Estate is known for wines produced from international grape varieties, such the red wine that I tasted.
Kokotos Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
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Kokotos Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 © Spaswinefood
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In fact the very day I was at Cinque Wine Bar two young women dropped by the wine bar. They ordered Kokotos Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. I asked why they selected this specific wine. They said it was their favorite. After my first introduction I looked forward to sampling more Kokotos Estate wines. The opportunity arose on our last morning adventure, as part of the #Winelover 4th Anniversary celebrations in 2016, at the Museum of Wine in Pallini, just outside Athens. There we tasted wines from Attica producers who are members of the Wines of Athens Association.
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| Reflections, Museum of Wine, Pallini 2016 © Spaswinefood |
Anna Aga was one of the winemakers pouring wines at this event for Kokotos Estate. In fact Anna was winemaker at Kokotos Estate at that time.
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| Anna, Pouring Kokotos Estate Wines © Spaswinefood |
At that event I tasted the following Kokotos wines:
White Wines
1. Savatiano G. Kokotos 2014
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| Savatiano G. Kokotos 2014 © Spaswinefood |
This was my second time tasting this wine. Since Savatiano is a new wine for me it was important to taste more than once.
2. Kokotos Estate, Agrimi 2015
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| Kokotos Estate, Agrimi 2015 © Spaswinefood |
This wine was made from Roditis 60% & Savatiano 40%.
3. Kokotos Estate, Perdika sto Ampli 2015
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Kokotos Estate, Perdika sto Ampeli (Partridge in the Vines) 2015 © Spaswinefood
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This wine was made from 100% Assyrtiko.
4. Kokotos Estate, Tris Tris Parades 2015
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| Kokotos Estate, Tris Tris Parades 2015 © Spaswinefood |
Tris Tris Parades gets its name from a bird around the grape vines that eats the grapes. It makes a "Tris Tris" like sound. The wine was made from 60% Gewürztraminer and 40% Roditis.
5. Kokotos Estate, Chardonnay 2014
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| Kokotos Estate, Chardonnay 2014 © Spaswinefood |
Rose Wine
6. Kokotos Estate, Klefta Kissa 2014
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| Kokotos Estate, Klefta Kissa (Thieving Magpie) 2014© Spaswinefood |
Klefta Kissa, a rose wine, was made from a blend of Merlot 70% and Cabernet Sauvignon 30%.
Red Wines
I did not have enough time to tasted all of the wines during the wine tasting. However, during lunch I managed to re-taste Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 and sample the 2012 vintage for the first time.
7. Kokotos Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 & 2011
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| Kokotos Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 & 2011 © Spaswinefood |
Yes, lunch at the museum was a great opportunity to checkout more wines. This time with food.
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| Kokotos Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 & & Klefta Kissa 2014 © Spaswinefood |
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| Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 & Klefta Kissa 2014 © Spaswinefood |
Based on my experiences you must try: their flawless Savatiano, their elegant Chardonnay, and the award-winning Kokotos Estate Red. Kokotos Estate is where a world class sommelier, Anne Kokotos and her husband found their home. Given Kokotos Estate’s location (1) on rolling northern slopes of Mount Pendeli, a region which has been known for its wine production since antiquity; (2) within an hours drive from the centre of Athens, has contributed to the estate’s success; and in addition (3) their wines have received an impressive number of national and international awards. Those who have yet discover Kokotos Estate wines now is the time. It took me sometime since I first tasted their wines in 2016 at Cinque Wine Bar, Athens and the Wine Museum to visit the winery in 2022. Kokotos Estate wines are indeed wines that showcase a sense of place.
Thank you Roxani Matsa Estate, Nikolou Winery, and Kokotos Estate for your warm hospitality and the sharing your wines! If your travels take you to Athens then explore nearby Attica wine country. You can also discover Greek wines at a local wine store near you. Now is the time to explore Greek Wines! Special thanks to #winesisters Ana and Evangelie for your ongoing support in my exploration for Greek wines. I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.
CHEERS!
Sharon
May 2024
Athens, Greece
© Spaswinefood
Anna, Sharon, Roxani, & Georgia, Roxani Matsa Estate © Anna Aga
Roxani Matsa Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood
Perhaps the first wine story began with the Greek god of wine, Dionysus bringing some wine to Goddess Athena at the Parthenon, Athens. Each visit to Greece I am more, and more impressed by Greek wines, produced from both indigenous and international grape varieties. My wine soul is drawn to Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. Greek wines with their impressive history are so exciting to explore. Each time I return my wine world is filled with amazing grape-filled adventures. Whenever I am in Athens, I return to Cinque wine bars (15 Agatharchou Street, and 10 Voreou Street) where there is always special #winelover magic in the air. For sure each visit to Athens has provided me with the most amazing wine adventures.
