Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon: Living the dream in Ribera del Duero: A gastronomic journey

Sunday, November 26, 2023

Living the dream in Ribera del Duero: A gastronomic journey

Here's to living the Ribera del Duero wine country dream! YES, a wine traveler's dream fulfilled with rich culinary experiences. Last May, I joined WineMine friends from Portugal for SweetEasy Ribera del Duero explorations. Over three days, we visited a variety of wineries, ranging from boutique to large scale producers. In addition, our adventure included traditional to modern style culinary feasts. This post will highlight the gastronomic side of our Ribera del Duero travels.

WineMine Dining, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

Our gastronomic journey included lunch at Molino de Palacios, Alma Carraovejas Collection Wine and Food Pairing at Pago de Carraovejas, Gourmet Lunch at Mélida Wines, Prado & Co Vermouth Master Class at La Vida Restaurant, and Bodegas Cepa 21 Restaurant for Wine & Food.

A Ribera del Duero Gastronomic Journey

For sure expectations were high for our first wine tasting at Bodegas Aalto. Bodegas Aalto has the reputation of producing some of the finest wines in Ribera del Duero and Spain. We were not disappointed because we tasted some of the top rated wines in the world.

Wine Tasting, Bodegas Aalto © Spaswinefood

Bodegas Aalto 2020 Wines © Spaswinefood

After our Bodegas Aalto wine tasting it was off to lunch at Molino de Palacios in Peñafiel. Over lunch we enjoyed some traditional Spanish foods with Ribera del Duero wines.

Lunch at Molino de Palacios, Peñafiel

Molino de Palacios, Peñafiel © Spaswinefood

We began our gastronomic journey in Peñafiel with lunch at Molino de Palacios. Molino de Palacios is an historic place. The Valladolid diocesan archives mentions it for the first time in the 12th century. It was named Molino Quemado (Burnt Mill) at that time. In 1573, the Lords of Peñafiel bought the mill, and the Duke of Osasuna presented it as a gift to a foundation for the Study of Grammar. In 1868 Don Pedro de la Torre Hortigüela bought and rebuilt it. The latest renovation was in 1995, when it became Molino de Palacios Restaurant.

Ribera del Duero Wines, Molino de Palacios © Spaswinefood

The Denomination of Origin Ribera del Duero wines accompanied the dishes served. I must admit that I just enjoyed the wines and did not take notes. So let's take a look at some of the foods served.

Alcachofa (Artichoke)

Alcachofa (Artichoke), Molino de Palacios © Spaswinefood

I have discovered that artichokes when in season reach cult status (as noted in this Muriel Wine article).

Queso de Oveja (Sheep's Milk Cheese)

Cheese Plate, Molino de Palacios © Spaswinefood

Sheep ‘s Milk Cheese (Queso de Oveja), a hard cheese with a nutty flavor, is the most famous Ribera del Duero cheese, which home to many excellent cheeses. This particular cheese is commonly served with bread or crackers.

Morcilla (Blood Sausage)

Morcilla, Molino de Palacios © Spaswinefood

Blood Sausage (Morcilla), another popular dish, is a type of blood sausage that is made with rice and spices. It is typically served grilled or fried.

Lechazo (Roast Suckling Lamb)

Lechazo (Lamb), Molino de Palacios © Spaswinefood

Roast Suckling Lamb (Lechazo), perhaps the most famous dish in Ribera del Duero, is roasted in a wood-fired oven until it is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.

Sopa de Frijoles (Bean Soup)

Sopa de Frijoles (Bean Soup), Molino de Palacios © Spaswinefood

Soups are a popular item on the restaurants menu. This bean soup was delicious.

Lunch at Molino de Palacios was an amazing introduction to local cuisine. We would later check into our hotel, followed by dinner.

Alma Carraovejas Collection Wine and Food Pairing at Pago de Carraovejas

Pago de Carraovejas, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

Next day, we visited Pago de Carraovejas for a wine and food pairing. 

Pago de Carraovejas © Spaswinefood

Pago de Carraovejas is a stunning winery, with amazing views all around it. After touring the winery we enjoyed the most fantastic wine and food pairing.

Alma Carraovejas Collection Wine and Food Pairing, Pago de Carraovejas 
During this session we were introduced to award winning wines paired with modern style cuisine. We were introduced to wines from the Alma Carraovejas collection.

Wine & Food Pairing, Pago de Carraovejas © Spaswinefood

Let's take a look at the wine and food pairings.

Wine Tasting, Pago de Carraovejas © Spaswinefood

The first wine Alma Carraovejas collection wines was from Viña Mein.

Viña Mein, O Pequeno, Val Do Avia, DO Ribeiro 2020
Viña Mein, O Pequeno, Val Do Avia, DO Ribeiro 2020 © Spaswinefood

O Pequeno is blend of local Ribeiro varieties: Treixadura, Godello, Albariño and Torrontés. 

The presentation of food pairings with the wines was first class.

Food Pairing with Mein, O Pequeno, DO Ribeiro 2020 © Spaswinefood

The second Alma Carraovejas collection wine was from Ossian.

 Ossian, Quintaluna, Castilla y Leon 2020
Ossian, Quintaluna, Castilla y Leon 2020 © Spaswinefood

In 2016, Ossian joined the Alma Carraovejas family. The main goal were to recover the ancestral vines of this exceptional inheritance, and utilize unique winemaking methods to insure the authentic potential of Segovian Verdejo. Although Ossian is in the heart of the Rueda DO, these wines are classified as Castilla y León.

The pairing with this wine follows. 
Food Pairing with Ossian, Quintaluna, Castilla y Leon 2020 © Spaswinefood

Now, for a second look at the two white wines and food pairings.

White Wines with Veggie Food Pairings © Spaswinefood

The presentation of the non-vegetarian pairings with the white wines was equally as inviting. 

White Wines with Food Pairings © Spaswinefood
White Wines with Food Pairings © Spaswinefood

Next, the red wine tasting began with the third Alma Carraovejas wine collection.

Bodega Marañones, 30000 Maravedies, Vinos de DO Madrid 2020
Bodega Marañones, 30000 Maravedies, Vinos de DO Madrid 2020 © Spaswinefood

The Garnacha is grown on 50-70 years old vines, the signature plantings of the winery. They reside at an altitude of 2625 feet on the hillside of Sierra de Gredos facing north. The wines is 90% Garnacha and 10% other. 
Food Pairing with Marañones, 30000 Maravedies, Vinos de DO Madrid 2020 © Spaswinefood
Food Pairing with Marañones, 30000 Maravedies, Vinos de DO Madrid 2020 © Spaswinefood

Last wine from the Alma Carraovejas collection was from Pago de Carraovejas. This Pago de Carraovejas wine is considered a genuine iconic wine from Ribera del Duero.

Pago de Carraovejas, Ribera del Duero DO 2020
Pago de Carraovejas, Ribera del Duero DO 2020 © Spaswinefood

The last wine was paired with pasta.

Food Pairing with Pago de Carraovejas, Ribera del Duero DO 2020 © Spaswinefood
Food Pairing with Pago de Carraovejas 2020 © Spaswinefood

I enjoyed tasting these very special wines from Alma Carraovejas Collection.

Alma Carraovejas Wine and Food Pairing, Pago de Carraovejas © Spaswinefood

It was indeed an excellent food and wine pairing. The wines paired well with modern style cuisine. José María Ruiz would have approved.

Tasting Alma Carraovejas Collection Wines, Pago de Carraovejas © Spaswinefood

During the wine tasting we enjoyed the very best wine and food pairing. If you like being spoiled with excellent wines these award winning wines from the Alma Carraovejas Collection is a great place to begin. Pago de Carraovejas is all about living the dream. Moreover, we also had the most amazing guide during our Pago de Carraovejas visit.

Gourmet Lunch, Mélida Wines

Ribera del Duero is home to boutique winery, Mélida Wines. We toured the winery, did a wine tasting, and enjoyed the very best gourmet lunch.

Winemakers, Mélida Boutique Winery © Spaswinefood

They produce artisanal wines from organically farmed and hand picked grapes. Here the focus is on producing high quality wines in small batches. They craft premium wines from vineyards in some of the most exciting areas of Ribera del Duero. Their global wine experience working in Argentina, Bordeaux, and New Zealand has influenced them to produce a unique style of elegant Designation of Origin Ribera del Duero wines. What is amazing is that in a short time Mélida's wines have received excellent reviews by several prominent wine critics, such as Robert Parker, and Tim Atkin MW.

Mélida Wines © Spaswinefood

The wines are aged in neutral French oak barrels. Their goal is to avoid the heavy style of wine often characteristic of the region, by producing wines that reflect the origin of the grapes. The aim for their wines is to showcase the character of each vintage with, freshness, soft and round tannins, fruit on the nose, and soft and elegant on the palate. They use minimal intervention, short maceration, wild yeast and careful aging to achieve this. This requires careful attention to detail from harvest to bottle. Hence the wine is made in an artisanal way, in order to ensure quality. Besides drawing from a strong knowledge base there is passion and determination behind the wine making at this boutique winery.

After an introduction to Mélida wines we headed upstairs for the most amazing gourmet lunch with Mélida Wines.

Table Ready, Mélida Wines Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Upstairs we gathered around a table where we would enjoy the wines over lunch.

Ready for Mélida Wines © Spaswinefood

That spring afternoon we discovered that Miriam's sister, Silva is also an excellent chef.

Mélida Wines Restaurant © Spaswinefood

It was not long before we were all settled into a fabulous gourmet lunch.

Lunch, Mélida Wines Restaurant © Spaswinefood

We began with a rosé wine and a variety of cheeses.

Sampling Local Cheeses with Mélida Wines © Spaswinefood

Of course the dishes that followed were delicious (photos below).

Garbanzo Soup Plate, Mélida Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Garbanzo Soup Plate, Mélida Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Salad, Mélida Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Shrimp Taco, Mélida Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Risotto, Mélida Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Veggie Plate, Mélida Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Pita & Hummus, Mélida Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Meat Plate, Mélida Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Of course there were amazing desserts.

Dessert Plate, Mélida Wines Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Dessert Plate, Mélida Wines Restaurant © Spaswinefood

These desserts were so tasty!

Disappearing Delight, Mélida Wines Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Of course, we did a great job on the desserts.

Lots of Dessert Plates, Mélida Wines Restaurant © Spaswinefood

We had the most amazing gourmet lunch with fabulous Mélida Wines.

The wines served during lunch were:

1. Mélida Wines, Párpados, DO Ribera del Duero 2020

2. Mélida Wines, Dos Alas Rojas, DO Ribera del Duero 2018

3. Mélida Wines, Eternauta DO Ribera del Duero 2020

Lookout for these wines you will not be disappointed. Our overall gastronomic experience here was spectacular! Dining at Mélida's restaurant is highly recommended.

Prado & Co Vermouth Master Class with Local Dishes, La Vida Hotel Restaurant

That evening back at the hotel Sinisa gave us Prado & Co Vermouth Master Class before dinner.

It was a delight for me to revisit these wines. I still remember an earlier visit to Prado & Co. February 2018. While vermouth is sometimes used in cooking it can also be paired with various dishes. Some of the plates served during our tasting included:

Alcachofa (Artichoke) © Spaswinefood
Fried Fish Platter © Spaswinefood
Fish Platter © Spaswinefood
Vegetable Platter © Spaswinefood

For sure, in addition to exploring Ribera Del Duero wines, it was fantastic to do Pradó & Co Vermouth Master Class paired with Spanish dishes. Our host Sinisa Curavic, SweetEasy has a passion for Vermouth. This opportunity to learn more is something I appreciated. 

Bodegas Cepa 21 Restaurant for Wine & Food 
Bodegas Cepa 21 © Spaswinefood
Bodegas Cepa 21's wines and its amazing culinary offerings were the perfect backdrop to experiencing today's Ribera del Duero gastronomic scene. Bodegas Cepa 21, in the heart of Ribero del Duero region, is located in the area known as The Golden Mile.  Cepa 21 was founded in 2007 as a modern project by the Moro family, brothers José and Javier Moro, third generation vignerons. Its vineyards are amongst the highest altitude vineyards in Spain, located at 2,400 – 3,300 feet above sea level. They farm 125 acres of estate vineyards, and also get their grapes from another 125 acres, which is under their management, via agreements they have with the wine growers. 
Bodegas Cepa 21 Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Upon arrival we took in the spring time vineyard views before a brief tour of the winery.
Spring Time Vineyard, Bodegas Cepa 21 © Spaswinefood

Cepa 21 has constructed a modern, minimalist and functional winery. During the wine making process they utilize both the wisdom accumulated over generations and innovation to produce modern-style wines. After we toured the winery, did a wine tasting, we enjoyed the most delicious lunch.

Bodegas Cepa 21 Wine Tasting

During the tasting we were introduced to their four red wines, Hito, Cepa 21, Malabrigo and Horcajo.

Tasting Bodegas Cepa 21 Wines © Spaswinefood

All four red wines are produced from the same grape, Tempranillo (Tinto Fino). In fact they have their own Moro clone, which they have cultivated for more than a century. Cepa 21 aims to produce Tempranillo wines utilizing the very best of tradition and innovation. 
Wine Tasting, Bodegas Cepa 21 © Spaswinefood

After an exciting tasting of the full range of their red wines we were off to Cepa 21's Restaurant for lunch.

Lunch, Bodegas Cepa 21 Restaurant

Dining at Cepa 21 Restaurant is a gastronomic experience. Lunch was an excellent food (modern style cuisine) and wine pairing affair. Our gastronomic experience at Cepa 21 restaurant with Chef Alberto Soto was a tasting menu recognized by the MichelIn Guide. We enjoyed modern cuisine based on traditional recipes and flavors from Castilla y León. The dishes were from an innovative point of view, which showcased textures, aromas and presentation.

Wine & Food, Bodegas Cepa 21 © Spaswinefood

The wine selection poured during lunch included wines other than Copa 21 wines. There was also a special beer and drink included in the dining experience. What follows is photographic overview of our dining experience.

Our lunch began with a cocktail.

Cocktail, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Cordial & Pairing, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Following the cocktail, cordial and first food pairing, what looked like a natural wine to me was introduced.

Wine & Food Pairing, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Food Pairing, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Adorado de Menade 
Adorado de Menade, VT de Castilla y León © Spaswinefood
I have since discovered that Adorado de Menade is a fortified wine (15.5%) made with the Verdejo and Palomino grape varieties. It is produced by the Menade winery as a VT (Vino de la Terra) de Castilla y León. The making of this style of wine dates back to 1900's.
The next plate appeared on the table.
Refreshing the Tastebuds, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood

An orange wine was also shared.
Vegetarian Plate with Orange Wine, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Vegetarian Plate, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Pies Viejos,  Orange Wine, IGP Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 2021
Pies Viejos,  Orange Wine, IGP Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 2021 © Spaswinefood
This Orange Wine is produced from the white grape Airen that has been macerated with its skins.
A craft beer then appeared.
Craft Beer, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Craft Beer & Food Pairing, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Soon another dish appeared.
Plate, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Then another dish arrived.
Plate, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood

A dry Furmint wine arrived.

Vega Sicilia Oremus, Furmint Mandolás, Tokaji 2020 
Oremus, Furmint Mandolás, Tokaji  2020 © Spaswinefood
Vega Sicilia Oremus, Furmint Mandolás, Tokaj 2020 © Spaswinefood

This is a delightful dry Furmint wine produced by the Vega Sicilia Oremus. Mandolás is one of the Oremus vineyards that is only planted with Furmint, the noble grape variety of the Tokaji region of Hungary. The region is well known for Tokaji sweet wines. Since I have visited Hungary a number of times in recent years I am familiar with both dry and sweet wines made from Furmint.

Next, there was a red Cepa 21 wine, and its food pairings (both meat and veggie options) arrived.

Cepa 21 Malabrigo, DO Ribera Del Duero 2019 
Cepa 21, Malabrigo DO Ribera Del Duero 2019 © Spaswinefood
Meat Plate, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Vegetarian Plate, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood
For me it was time to pause and reflect on the wines before dessert.
Wine Time Reflections, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Let's Refresh, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Soon dessert time arrived, and a sweet wine too!
Sweet Side, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Menade, Sauvignon Blanc Dulce, VT de Castilla y León 2021 Menade, Sauvignon Blanc Dulce, VT de Castilla y León 2021 © Spaswinefood

The second wine poured from Menade was a sweet Sauvignon Blanc. The very first wine was Adorado de Menade. Yes, we began and ended the lunch wines with VT de Castilla y León wines from Menade. 

Of course to go along with that final wine plates of sweets were added to the table. Indeed, our lunch ended on a very sweet note.
Time for Sweets, Cepa 21 Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Lunch at Cepa 21 Restaurant was beyond awesome. I highly recommend it. While at Bodegas Copa 21 Restaurant I tasted their wines, and ate the most delicious lunch. Lunch was an excellent modern style cuisine and wine pairing affair. The wine selection poured during lunch included wines other than Copa 21 wines. There was also a special beer and drink included in the dining experience. 
Wines Served, Bodegas Cepa 21 © Spaswinefood
Indeed, I am delighted to have experienced today's Ribera del Duero first hand. Moreover, I so enjoyed our gastronomic intro to its traditional to modern style cuisine. 

Also, wherever we travelled there were red poppies.

Spring time in Ribera Del Duero is when the gastronomy is oh so great and the poppies dot the landscape. While red wines will always take central stage in Ribera del Duero, the rosé and white wines that I tasted are a great addition to the overall wine portfolio. Moreover, this region offers a gastronomic journey through traditional to modern style cuisine. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my wine country explorations in Spain.

CHEERS!

Sharon

May 2023

Ribera del Duero, Spain

While in Ribera del Duero we stayed at La Vida, Centro Turismo Rural.

Ribera del Duero Wine Country © Spaswinefood
Ribera del Duero DO
Ribera del Duero DO is located in northern Spain's Castilla y León region. There on the northern plateau of the Iberian Peninsula, along the sides of the Duero River, the wine region occupies the southern plains of Burgos province, extends west to Valladolid, and into parts of Segovia and Doris provinces. The appellation received DO status in 1982. In 2008, it was approved for Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status however, it never pursued this classification, so it remains a DO appellation. It is one of Spain's best red wine regions. It is known for its Tempranillo (Tinto Fino), which is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec, up to 25 %. The appellation is almost exclusively red and rosado (rosé) wines. To be recognized as DO, its red wines must contain a minimum of 75 % Tempranillo. No more than 5 % Garnacha or Albillo, in total, may be added. Its Rosado wines must have a minimum of 50 % of the authorized red varieties. The white wine produced, mostly for local consumption, is Albillo. DO regulations require at least 75 % of Albillo grapes be used.
Spring time was great timing to checkout the wines, the cuisine and admire the landscape, dotted with poppies.

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Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon

Sunday, November 26, 2023

Living the dream in Ribera del Duero: A gastronomic journey

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