Greece: Where my wine soul feels at home

I am off to Greece in May for wine country adventures before our #Winelover gathering in June. Yes, I know most go to Greece to visit the Acropolis in Athens, tour the islands, and do all the tourist stuff. For me it is not my glass of wine. That is why I explore Greece through a different lens. My wine soul is drawn to Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. Greek wines with their impressive history are exciting to explore.  In fact Greek wines made with indigenous grape varieties are amongst the most exciting. White grapes with names like Assyrtiko and Malagousia. Then there are the red grapes like Agiorgitiko, Xinomavro, Limnio, and Stavroto, just to name a few. Greece is where my wine soul feels at home.

Vineyard, Domaine Porto Carras, Greece © Spaswinefood

Naturally, wether I am in Greece, or at home there are Greek wines on the table.

Greek Wines at Home © Spaswinefood

There is so much I have come to appreciate about Greek wines. This post however will focus on Assyrtiko and Xinomavro.

Assyritko

Assyrtiko (A seer' tec ko), a white grape indigenous to Santorini, is arguably Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety. It is a wine with great diversity. Grown in the arid volcanic-ash-rich soil of Santorini and other Aegean islands, it is also found in other regions of Greece, planted as far north as Drama in Greek Macedonia. It is a versatile grape variety, with wines being made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines known as Vinsanto.

Santorini Assyrtiko Vines © Spaswinefood

For sure Santorini Assyrtiko vines are amongst the most interesting. On the average these vines can reach 70 years old, and some of the wines are amongst the oldest in Greece. Growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training their vines into "baskets", winding the canes into wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds. Since advanced vine age tends to effect wine quality because yields are reduced, enhancing Assyrtiko's potential to make some very complex wines.

Santorini Assyrtiko Vines after Blooming © Spaswinefood

What stuck with me was that the Assyrtiko vines on Santorini are some of the oldest vines in Greece. Yes, I know Santorini is drop dead gorgeous!  Still how can you not check out its wines, especially Assyrtiko. For more on Assyrtiko see my earlier post Dreaming of Santorini's Assyrtiko and more.   

Xinomavro

Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806-1866) would perhaps approve of my love affair with Xinomavro (Ksee NOH mah vroh). The affair began Fall 2015 in Northern Greece. It was not in Naoussa but in Tsantali’s Rapsani vineyards where I was introduced to Rapsani vintages (1997-2005), and Rapsani Reserve (2007-2011). The Tsantali family, which has been producing wines since 1890, acquired the Rapsani Mount Olympus Vineyards in 1991.

I first became curious about Greek wines when I got to taste them at WBC2012, Portland. It was like a dream come true to travel the Wine Roads of Northern Greece. That Rapsani Wine Adventure included a vineyard visit to learn about Rapsani wines. For me no wine tasting room experience can compare to a visit to a wine region. This wine adventurer's burning desire to learn more about these wines certainly hit a new high that day.

Tasting Rapsani © Spaswinefood

Rapsani's vineyards on the slopes of Mount Olympus is where the indigenous red grapes Xinomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto are grown for the production of Tsantali's Rapsani wine. Rapsani is a blend of these three grapes.

Rapsani Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Even though the grapes had already been picked it was indeed special to take in the vineyard views on that autumn day.

Autumn, Rapsani Vineyard © Spaswinefood

On the same Northern Greece wine safari I also tasted Xinomavro wines at Boutari, Ktima Kir-Yianni, Averoff and Alpha Estate. Actually Boutari Winery, Stenimahos was my first introduction to the Naoussa wine region. Later while at Kitma Kir-Yianni the wine tasting included Xinomavro wines from Naoussa and Amyndeon. Later at the Averoff Winery, Metsovo we were introduced to a Xinomavro from Rountina Vineyards, Naoussa. What a fabulous first-hand introduction to Naoussa's Wine Road it was. Once you have been introduced to Naoussa’s Xinomavro wines you know why “Xinomavro is on Fire”.

Our Northern Greece wine safari along the Wine Route of the Lakes took us to the Alpha Estate in Ampelia, within the Amyndeon wine region of Northwest Greece. When we arrived Angelos Iatridis, winemaker and co-proprietor met us. He took us on a tour of Alpha's scenic vineyards. Angelos and his partner Makis Mavridis, a viticulturist, established Alpha Estate's vineyard in Ampelia, in the Amyndeon wine region of Northwest Greece. Their 90 hectare vineyard is located on a plateau, at 620-710 meters (about 2000 feet) above sea level, in the heart of the Amyndeon Appellation. This appellation, the highest and coolest wine making area in Greece, provides ideal grape growing conditions.

Stunning View, Alpha Estate © Spaswinefood

While touring the vineyard we stopped to checkout a scenic viewpoint. At the edge of the plateau there are stunning views of the lake and plains below.

Taking in the View, Alpha Estate © Spaswinefood

When we did a fabulous wine tasting there were a number of Xinomavro wines in the lineup.

Xinomavro (the cat) meets Xinomavro (the wine) © Spaswinefood

Is Xinomavro on Fire?

From Northern Greece I traveled onto Plovdiv, Bulgaria where  attended a Masters Class on Xinomavro at #DWCC15. The class given by Yiannis Karakasis and Gregory Michailos. The wines included an amazing lineup of Xinomavro wines from Amyndeon, Naoussa, Goumenissa and Rapsani. Now the question was, "Is Xinomavro on Fire?" My answer at that time and still is "YES".

First Flight, Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood

Obviously everyone forms their opinion of Xinomavro based on their palate preferences. Nevertheless, there is such an amazing diversity of this wine that most will choose one, or more to be their favorite(s).

Greece: Where My Wine Soul Feels at Home

Each time I return to Greece my wine world is filled with amazing grape adventures. Greece is at the top of my wine list for its unique grape varieties. Whenever I am in Athens I return to Cinque, 15 Agatharchou Street. Cinque is a place where there is always special #winelover magic in the air. During my last visit I was happy to discover that they also have another location. The location of Cinque Wine Delights is 10 Voreou Street where they not only offer wines but also takeaway items. In Athens Cinque is a must for wines made with indigenous grapes. 

For sure each visit to Greece has provided me with the most amazing wine adventures. Anyone touring Greek wine country will experience Greece's wine revolution. Each visit I am more, and more impressed by Greek wines, produced from both indigenous and international grape varieties. Key factors behind this revolution are (1) the use of modern winemaking technology, (2) talented winemakers, and (3) overall growth in the wine industry throughout the country.

Lunch, Stelios Kechris Domaine, 2015 © Spaswinefood

Those who have yet discover today's Greek wines now is the time. Please do not tell me about some awful Retsina you had many years ago. Greek wines of today are exciting, and there are wonderful Retsinas to explore too. It was indeed a special treat to taste Stelios Kechris Retsina during a visit in 2015. Now is the time to explore Greek Wines! I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

CHEERS!

Sharon

March 2022

Dreaming of Greece

© Spaswinefood

Xinomavro (the cat) meets Xinomavro (the wine) © Spaswinefood

Wine for the Gods

Perhaps the story begins with the Greek god of wine, Dionysus bringing some Xinomavro to Goddess Athena at the Parthenon. Recently however, Xinomavro (Ksee NOH mah vroh) that noble Greek red wine has gained attention. This lady in red has been putting on quite a show. To say that the wines produced from this grape are diverse and/or complex is an understatement. This is not just because of the varying terroir but also wine styles. Also, let’s not forget the winemaker who leaves his/her signature upon the wine. Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Maybe Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806-1866) would approve of my love affair with Xinomavro.

Parthenon, Acropolis © Spaswinefood

By all means take a quick visit to the Parthenon, the temple of the Greek Goddess Athena, then head off to Northern Greece. Northern Greece’s Naoussa is home to Xinomavro, the indigenous red grape. It is required by appellation law for Naoussa wines to be made from 100% Xinomavro. The excitement that Xinomavro has been generating recently is largely due to an ongoing experimentation with wine styles. Tara G. Thomas writing for Wine & Spirits notes "Between the new players that have entered the field and the established producers refining their approach, Naoussa is at a crossroads, redefining itself." Moreover, some producers have begun making wines from the international grape varieties, such Merlot and Syrah. These wines are marketed under the Macedonia PGI label. Clearly, there are many exciting developments in Naoussa these days. To add to this excitement there are other regions producing outstanding Xinomavro wines.

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Dreaming of Santorini's Assyrtiko and more

I am off to Santorini late May. Santorini, regarded as the most famous of all Greek islands, is also one of the top tourist destinations in the world. The amazing caldera formed by the volcanic eruption centuries ago, resulted in the most stunning sea views a human eye can ever see. Its fertile volcanic land produces products with distinctive flavors. Of course wine is at the top of this list. Santorini is renowned for its tradition in wine making and fine wine varieties. When my friend and I land in Santorini its boutique wineries are a must. Right at the top of my list will be checking Assyrtiko (A seer' tec ko) wines. Yep, you guessed it I am big on Assyrtiko.

Assyrtiko Vines, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Why Assyrtiko?

When Cinque Wine Bar, Athens hosted a virtual wine tasting March 2021 our conversations focused on Assyrtiko  wines from Domain Hatzimichalis, Gaia Wines, and Avantis Estate. These conversations transported me immediately to Greece. Assyrtiko, a white grape indigenous to Santorini, is arguably Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety. It is a wine with great diversity. Grown in the arid volcanic-ash-rich soil of Santorini and other Aegean islands, it is also found in other regions of Greece, planted as far north as Drama in Greek Macedonia. It is a versatile grape variety, with wines being made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines known as Vinsanto.  For sure  Assyrtiko is a great for conversations.

Assyrtiko Conversations, March 2021 © Spaswinefood 

Our Assyrtiko Virtual Wine Tasting centered around three wines: Domain Hatzimichalis, Gaia Wines, and Avantis Estate. 

1. Domaine Hatzimichalis, Assyrtiko Alepotrypa 2019

Domaine Hatzimichalis is a family owned winery located in Atlantis, Greece. The Assyrtiko wine from Hatzimichalis winery was introduced by Leonidas Hatzimichalis. Earlier during a Greek Wine tasting at home it was one of the four wines from Domaine Hatzimichalis that I tasted. To supplement the wine tasting Cinque provided online and other information for me to access. Domaine Hatzimichalis winery has been at the top of my must visit list for awhile; so I welcomed the opportunity to re visit this wine:

Domaine Hatzimichalis, Assyrtiko Alepotrypa 2019 © Spaswinefood

This Domaine Hatzimichalis Assyrtiko comes from a selected single vineyard Alepotrypa, which is part of the privately owned Domaine Hatzimichalis vineyards in the heart of the Atalanti Valley. 

Earlier in Greece I was introduced to Assyrtiko Alepotrypa 2016.

Domaine Hatzimichalis, Assyrtiko Alepotrypa 2016 © Spaswinefood

These are obviously two different vintages. I was impressed by both of these vintages, and I only wish my note taking allowed me to make comparisons.

 Domaine Hatzimichalis https://www.facebook.com/domaine.hatzimichalis/

2. Gaia, Assyrtiko Wild Ferment 2019

The second wine from Gaia Winery was introduced by Giannis Paraskevopoulos, Co-owner, Oenologist and Professor in the University of Oenologie, Athens. I look forward to tasting this wine.

Gaia Wines https://www.facebook.com/GaiaWinesGR/ 

3. Avantis Santorini Winery Assytiko Afoura 2018 

The third wine was introduced by Kotseridis George, Oenologist, Professor of Oenologie, University of Agriculture, Athens, consultant to Anhydrous Avantis Santorini Winery.  I look forward to tasting this wine.

Avantis Santorini Winery https://www.facebook.com/avantissantorinianhydrous/

While it was unfortunately I did not receive the shipment, which included the last two wines, both of which are from Santorini. Keith Edwards's article provides an excellent analysis of the three wines that includes these two wines. Given that I was looking forward to tasting them in the future I am excited to be off to Santorini this coming May.

Santorini Assyrtiko & More

One of the amazing discoveries for me during our session was, there are ancient Assyrtiko vines on Sanitorini. For sure Santorini Assyrtiko vines are amongst the most interesting. On the average these vines can reach 70 years old, and some of the wines are amongst the oldest in Greece. Growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training their vines into "baskets", winding the canes into wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds. Since advanced vine age tends to effect wine quality because yields are reduced, enhancing Assyrtiko's potential to make some very complex wines.

Discussing Santorini Assyrtiko Vines © Spaswinefood

Santorini Assyrtiko Vines Before Blooming © Spaswinefood

What stuck with me was that the Assyrtiko vines on Santorini are some of the oldest vines in Greece. The lack of water in the soil means the growers need to space the vines further apart than is usual. Moreover, the adaptation of the vines has resulted in the primary root(s) reaching around 5 meters, with the secondary roots being close to the surface to absorb humidity in the air. 

Santorini Volcanic Soil © Spaswinefood

For sure the Santorini terroir presents some challenges that significantly affect wine growing. The island is dry enough to be classified as a desert on the Köppen climate scale, and also very windy. On the plus side, the harsh volcanic soils of the island's vineyards have prevented the spread of phylloxera. Unlike most of Europe, the vines do not need to be grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstocks. 

Some of Santorini's wineries have tried special projects, like aging the wines under sea water. This is believe to have an interesting effect on the wines. Giannis Paraskevopoulos speculates it is not the effect of pressure that achieves this but the lack of oxygen. He suggests that this same experiment could be tried on land where wine bottles are immersed under water.  For sure Assyrtiko is very susceptible to oxidation. Santorini winemakers take advantage of this in the making of sweet Vinsanto wines. By controlling the level of oxidation, producers can create darker wines with fig, coffee, kirsch and chocolate characteristics. The grape's versatility, however, is that it can also be made into a dry wine, yellow-gold in color with mineral, pear, apple and citrus blossom aromas and flavors. Some versions are fermented in barrel. Naturally high acidity means that Assyrtiko wines can age for many years. Assyrtiko is sometimes blended with the Athiri and Aidani grape varieties on its native Santorini, in both dry and sweet styles. They are usually minor components of the blend. Assyrtiko, occasionally seen in Retsina, appears to be falling from favor for that purpose, as more varietal Assyrtiko wines are being crafted.

Assyritko's unique characteristics has also made it appealing to other countries around the world. One of those characteristics is drought resistant. One of the best examples of its ability to adapt is that Jim Barry Wines produced Australia's first Assyrtiko from 3 hectares (7.5 acres) of basket-trained vines in the Lodge Hill Vineyard in the Clare Valley. The vines were propagated from cuttings from Sanitorini's Argyros Estate. When Spaswinefood visited the Clare Valley in 2015 it was indeed a treat to taste at Jim Barry Wines. We did not taste Assyritko during this visit given it was first released in 2016 (see Decanter article).

Jim Barry Wines, Clare Valley, Australia © Spaswinefood

For sure the Assyrtiko session peeked my interest in knowing more about this wine. Especially after tasting these 2016 wines during a 2018 visit to Cinque.

1. Kokotos Estate, Perdika sto Ampeli 
2. Domaine Porto Carras Assyrtiko
3. Tsantali, Klimaklima Organic Assyrtiko 

4. Artemis Karamolegos, Assyrtiko

5. Pyritis, Santorini Mega Cuvée 

Kokotos Estate, Perdika sto Ampeli 2016 © Spaswinefood

Domaine Porto Carras, Assyrtiko 2016 © Spaswinefood

Tsantali, Klimaklima Organic Assyrtiko 2016 © Spaswinefood

Pyritis, Santorini Mega Cuvée 2016 © Spaswinefood

Let the Assyrtiko Conversations Continue 

I felt so fortunate that I am able to enjoy Greek Wines offered by Cinque. Since my first meeting with Evangelie and Greg in 2016, at Cinque Wine Bar, Athens I have had the pleasure to meet up with them and Nikitas at a number of #winelover hangouts in Europe. Of course, whenever I was able to return to Cinque it was always a special treat. For me getting to know Greek wines is an amazing journey. 

Cinque THANK YOU  

For sure I can not wait to visit Santorini's wineries. Yes, indeed Cinque in Athens will be my first stop before heading onto Santorini. I invite you to join me in my travels in Greece and elsewhere in the sharing of these adventures at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on  Twitter and Facebook. 

 #ILoveGreekWines 
#SeeYouInGreece

Sharon
March 2022
Dreaming of Greece

© Spaswinefood

Evangelie and Greg, Cinque, Athens © Spaswinefood

 Nikitas, Madeira 2019 © Spaswinefood

Tasting Assyrtiko Wines, Cinque, Athens © Spaswinefood

Cinque, Athens is a #Winelover's Gem

Little did I know that a #winelover gathering in Athens in 2016 would connect me with a Facebook friend who owned a wine bar in Central Athens. Yes, the wine bar was Cinque. Some places are special because of the people. For Cinque it is not, just because they are nice, but also because they are knowledgeable about the wines and bring a special passion to serving wine at their wine bar. What I encountered on that initial #winelover outing (Valentine’s Day, February 14, 2016) at the Cinque was not only great wines and food, but also amazing hospitality from the owners who are both knowledgeable and passionate about Greek wines. There is a special #winelover magic in the air at Cinque Athens.  If you can not go to Cinque where there is a special #winelover magic in the air then consider one of their virtual experiences. Special thanks to Evangelie, Greg and Nikitas for sharing their passion for Greek Wines.  

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