Basque country: A top destination for wine and food

When travelers come to Northeast Spain's San Sebastián they know they are in for a special treat. From casual pintxo bars to Michelin starred restaurants, this city in Basque Country (País Vasco, or Euskadi), is all about the celebration of food and wine. It is internationally renown as one of the world’s gastronomic capitals. Culinary visitors are not only attracted by San Sebastián's culinary scene but also, Hondarribia, in recent years, has seen a boom in its culinary scene. Young chefs who, after studying under the likes of Martín Berasategui and Pedro Subijana, have set up shop there. The quality of the new gastronomy scene is right up there with San Sebastian.  Not only is Basque Country a top culinary area, known for its own culture and language, but also it has a rich wine making tradition. 

Welcome to Basque Country © Spaswinefood

 Basque Txakoli Wine Region

The beautiful Basque Txakoli wine region is a place with striking landscapes. Of course I came to enjoy Basque Country travels at this top destination for wine and food. Txakoli (Chacolí in Spanish, pronounced: chak-ko-lee) wine making dates back hundreds of years, and has a long tradition of being produced from the indigenous grape varieties: Hondarrabi Zuri, Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia, and Izkiriota. Txakoli wines are most commonly produced as a light, fruity and acid-driven, slightly sparkling dry white wine. This wine is also produced in rose, sparkling, and late harvest styles. It is home to three Txakoli appellations (Txakoli Getaria (Getariako Txakolina) DO established 1989, Txakoli Bizkaia (Bizkailo Txakolina) DO established 1994, and Txakoli Álava (Arabako Txakolina) DO established 2001). There is one appellation in each of the three Basque provinces. 

Txakoli Vineyard, Basque Country © Spaswinefood

Besides being home to Txakoli wines restaurants throughout the region have excellent wine lists, which include wines from other regions.

Here's to Celebrating Wine and Food 

I had come here to celebrate food and wine with friends. 

El Bistro Ondarreta

Shortly after arriving in San Sebastián, it was off to El Bistro Ondarreta for dinner.

Welcome to San Sebastián, El Bistro Ondarreta © Spaswinefood

Our dinner that evening was a celebration with our WineMine group.

Dinner, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

We enjoyed a most delicious dinner at El Bistro Ondarreta. I was so happy to taste the Spanish wines that Sinisa had brought. He also prepared us for our Txakoli wine adventures, which would start the next morning.

Dinner Wines © Spaswinefood

Since in earlier posts I focused on our winery visits this post is primarily a gastronomic overview.

San Sebastián

After exploring wine country we concluded our first day with lunch in town, followed by a walking tour of historical San Sebastián. 

Rainy Spring Day, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

By the time we returned to San Sebastián gray clouds filled the sky.

Low Tide, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

The waterfront scene was captivating even on a gray, rainy day. We managed to arrive back in town at low tide.

Waiting for the Tide, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Soon we were off to lunch at Urepel Jatetxea.

Urepel Jatetxea, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Escaping inside for lunch at Urepel Jatetxea was a perfect escape from the rain.

Time for Lunch, Urepel Jatetxea © Spaswinefood

For sure lunch at Urepel Jatetxea was delicious and so were the desserts.

Perhaps Dessert, Urepel Jatetxea © Spaswinefood

Dessert Time, Urepel Jatetxea © Spaswinefood

                                                                                                                                                                                                        

Dining in San Sebastián, home to so many Michelin starred restaurants, is foodie heaven. One of my friends gave me a list of recommended restaurants. Seriously, during a three night stay it was impossible to do justice. We did manage to have dinner at Narru located opposite Buen Pastor Cathedral.

Narru, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Narru's offers Basque cuisine & pintxos. It has been described as a traditional, market-inspired cuisine.  The emphasis is on high-quality ingredients and presentation.

Of course, it was a good time to try a few wines, and we did.

AT Roca Pedregar, DO Clàssic Penedès 2016

AT Roca Pedregar, DO Clàssic Penedès 2016 © Spaswinefood

This an organic Brut Nature sparkling wine made with Macabeo and Garnacha Tinta varieties from the D.O. Penedès. With food of course it was delicious. We ordered a number of small plates.

Small Plates, Narru © Spaswinefood

Enjoying Wine at Narru, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Pintia DO Toro 2018

Pintia DO Toro 2018 © Spaswinefood

Both of these wines were excellent.

How could one resist dessert!

Chocolate at its Best, Narru, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Reservations are necessary for dinner, and highly recommended for lunch, especially if you want to sit in the restaurant section downstairs.

After exploring wineries in this region one of the highlights was our wine and food experience at Hiruzta Bodega, in the Txakoli Getaria (or Getariako Txakolina) appellation.

Food & Wine Time, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Celebrating Wine and Food, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

 I would highly recommend a wine and food pairing at Hiruzka Bodega.

Yes, we managed to do lunch in Hondarribia (Fuenterrabía in Spanish), a colorful fishing village that is both rich in architecture and gastronomy. 

Harbor at Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Hondarribia is quite close to the French border. In fact it is just across the harbor in the above photo.

While in Hondarribia, there was opportunity for another gastronomic exploration. In recent years, it has seen a boom in its culinary scene. As I have already noted, young chefs who, after studying under the likes of Martín Berasategui and Pedro Subijana, have set up shop in Hondarribia. The quality of the new gastronomy scene is right up there with San Sebastian. I am so glad to have visited.

Lunch, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

The plates served during lunch included:

Veggie Plate, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Meat Plate, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Fish Plate, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

After lunch we toured Hondarribia on our own. Its architecture is very captivating to explore. 

Exploring Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Stunning Architecture, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

I would highly recommend a visit to Hondarribia to checkout its gastronomy and its architecture. 

Given that it rained during my May visit I would like to note that when I arrived in Basque Country it was a sunny day. I managed to take a few photos of the Cantabrian Sea along the flight path to the airport.

Approach to San Sebastián Airport, Cantabrian Sea © Spaswinefood

Basque Country is undoubtedly a top destination for wine and food. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my recent vine-filled explorations in Spain. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

May 2023

San Sabastian, Spain 

© Spaswinefood

Basque Country Travels with WineMine Friends © Spaswinefood

#spaswinefood travels in Txakoli Wine Country  

Basque Country's Hiruzta Bodega for the best celebration of Txakoli wine with food

Hiruzta Bodega was our last wine country outing in Basque Country's Txakoli wine region. Basque Country (País Vasco, or Euskadi), in Northeast Spain, is not only known for its own culture and language, but also its rich wine making tradition. Moreover, this region is renowned for its innovative gastronomy and striking landscapes. This post will highlight our wine and food experience at Hiruzta Bodega, in the Txakoli Getaria (or Getariako Txakolina) appellation.

Food & Wine Time, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Celebrating Wine and Food, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Hiruzta Bodega: Txakoli at its Best

Hiruzta Bodega showcased excellence in Txakoli (Chacolí in Spanish, pronounced: chak-ko-lee) wines. Last May I joined WineMine friends from Portugal for a SweetEasy wine tour of this beautiful wine region. Txakoli (chak-ko-lee) is most commonly produced as a light, fruity and acid-driven, slightly sparkling dry white wine. This wine is produced in white, rose, sparkling, and late harvest styles. It has been described by some as a unique zippy wine. I am inclined to agree.  

Txakoli Vineyard, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Before sharing our Hiruzta Bodega gastronomic experience I will briefly review Txakoli appellations.

Txakoli Wines of Basque Country

Basque Country's wine region is at the border between Spain and France. Txakoli wine making dates back hundreds of years, and has a long tradition of being produced from the indigenous grape varieties: Hondarrabi Zuri, Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia, and Izkiriota. There are three Txakoli appellations, one in each of the three Basque provinces. 

1. Txakoli Getaria (or Getariako Txakolina) was the first to gain recognition as a DO in 1989. Txakoli Getaria is a coastal region between Getaria and San Sebastian, and is the largest of the three. Getariako Txakolina, a wine-growing area around the Getaria and Zarautz in the province of Gipuzkoa
2. Txakoli Bizkaia (Bizkailo Txakolina) DO was established in 1994. It is located further north-west, also on the coast, and the wines here are typically more minerally and slightly more acidic. 
3. The third and smallest sub-region, Txakoli Álava (Arabako Txakolina), the youngest DO was founded in 2001,  is located inland, south of Bilbao in the Ayala Valley, approaching the Rioja Alavesa sub-region. 

During my Basque Country travels I was introduced to a variety of Txakoli wines. Given I had heard so much about the Basque wine region I looked forward to exploring Txakoli Wine Country. Our Bodega stops included Txomin Etxaniz, Talai Berri, with our last winery stop at Hiruzka Bodegas for a a food and wine pairing, followed by a visit to nearby Hondarribia for lunch.

Budding Txakoli Vines, May 2023 © Spaswinefood

Celebrating Wine and Food at Hiruzka Bodega

Our last winery stop in Basque Country was at Hiruzka Bodega. Hiruzta Bodega was established in 2012 by the Rekalde Family (a father and his two sons). Its name comes from a loose translation of a three-person harvest, and the owners passion for this project. Hiruzta Bodega wines have won multiple international awards.

Welcome to Hiruzka Bodega © Spaswinefood

Here we did a wine and food pairing.

WineMine, Hiruzka Bodega © Spaswinefood

Cheese Platers, Hiruzka Bodega © Spaswinefood

In addition to the cheese platters there were platters of Olives and Peppers, Cauliflower dishes, and more. All paired with wines.

Peppers & Olives with Fish,  Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Peppers & Olives with Fish, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Peppers & Olives with Fish, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Then of course the vegetarian version without the fish was my option.

Peppers & Olives, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

A cauliflower dish, regular and vegetarian options, was another delightfully appetizing dish.

Cauliflower Dish with Fish, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Cauliflower Dish with Fish,  Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Cauliflower Dish, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

As we gathered around the table food plates and wines appeared.

 

Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

The first dishes were paired with white wines. Now let's take a look at the wines.

1. Hiruzta, Hondarrabi Zuri, Getariako Txakolina DO

Hiruzta, Hondarrabi Zuri, Getariako Txakolina DO ©Spaswinefood

A Txakoli wine made from the Hondarrabi Zuri grape.

2. Hiruzta Berezia, Hondarrabi Zuri  Getariako Txakolina DO 

Hiruzta Berezia, Hondarrabi Zuri , Getariako Txakolina DO © Spaswinefood

Hiruzta Berezia, Hondarrabi Zuri, Getariako Txakolina DO © Spaswinefood

Hiruzta Berezia, Hondarrabi Zuri in the Glass © Spaswinefood

Hiruzta Berezia is a contemporary-style Txakoli wine made from the Hondarrabi Zuri grape. 

Of course there was a rosé wine. 

3. Hiruzta Txakoli Rosé

Hiruzta Txakoli Rosé © Spaswinefood

Hiruzta Txakoli Rosé Wines © Spaswinefood

Their rosé Txakoli wine is produced from Hondarrabi Beltza and Hondarrabi Zuri grapes.  

This rosé wine was paired with white asparagus.

White Asparagus Hiruzta Bodega, Getariako Txakolina DO 2021 © Spaswinefood

White Asparagus, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

The following other food plates were included:

Meat Plate, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Sardines, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

There was also a potato plate.

Potato with Cheese, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Overall there were lots of appetizing plates to sample with the wines.

Food & Wine Time, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

It was a most delightful experience with food and wine.

Other wines poured during the tasting included:

4. Hiruzta, Parcela No. 3 Limited Ed 252/900, Getariako Txakolina DO2020

Hondarrabi Zuri-Hondarrabi, Limited Ed 252/900, Getariako Txakolina DO2020 © Spaswinefood

PARCELA No 3 is a vintage txakoli wine produced in limited edition. It is aged on the lees for 12 months.

5. Hiruzta, Basque Brut Nature Methode Traditionelle

Hiruzta, Basque Brut Nature Methode Traditionelle © Spaswinefood

Hiruzta, Basque Brut Nature Methode Traditionelle © Spaswinefood

This sparkling wine is produced from Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi grapes.

Hiruzta, Brut Nature in the Glass © Spaswinefood

The wines at Hiruzta not only included white, rosé and sparkling wines. Of course there was a red wine too. The red wine is produced from Hondarrabi Beltza and Hondarrabi grapes.

6. Hiruzta, Parcela 1.7 Txakoli Tinto (Red Wine), Getariako Txakolina DO 2021

Hiruzta, Parcela 1.7 Txakoli Tinto (Red Wine), Getariako Txakolina DO 2021 © Spaswinefood

Hiruzta, Parcela 1.7 Txakoli Tinto (Red Wine), Getariako Txakolina DO 2021 © Spaswinefood

This wine is a modern style of red Txakoli produced from Beltza grapes.

I would highly recommend doing a wine and food pairing at Hiruzka Bodega.

More on Hiruzka Bodega

Before this food and wine event we explored the vineyard and winery.

Vineyard at Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Hiruzta Bodega Vineyard © Spaswinefood

As we toured the vineyard I took a closeup look at the vines.

Budding Txakoli Vines, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Springtime Vineyard, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Budding Txakoli Vines, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

From the vineyard it was onto learning about the winery.

Tank Room, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Yes, we even managed to do lunch in nearby Hondarribia (Fuenterrabía in Spanish), a colorful fishing village that is both rich in architecture and gastronomy. 

Harbor at Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Hondarribia is quite close to the border of France. In fact it is just across the harbor in the above photo.

While in Hondarribia, there was opportunity for more gastronomic explorations.

Lunch, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

In recent years, Hondarribia has seen a boom in its culinary scene. Young chefs who, after studying under the likes of Martín Berasategui and Pedro Subijana, have set up shop there. The quality of the new gastronomy scene is right up there with San Sebastian. When your wine travels take you to San Sebastián and Hondarribia then you know you are in for a special treat.

After lunch we toured Hondarribia on our own. Its architecture is very captivating to explore. 

Exploring Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Stunning Architecture, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

For sure exploring Txakoli wines at Basque Country's Hiruzta Bodega is is an absolute must. It is ideal for celebrating wine with food. In fact Hiruzta Bodega food and wine pairings was a highlight of my wine travels in Basque Country. If time permits after a visit to Hiruzta Bodega I would highly recommend a visit to nearby Hondarribia to checkout its gastronomic scene, and its architecture.  I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I so look forward to more vine-filled explorations in Spain. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

May 2023

San Sabastian, Spain 

© Spaswinefood

Inviting Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Basque Country Travels with WineMine Friends © Spaswinefood

Given that it rained during most of my visit I am so glad that when I arrived in Basque Country it was a sunny day. I managed to take a few photos of the Cantabrian Sea along the flight path to the airport.

Arriving in Basque Country © Spaswinefood

Approach to San Sebastián Airport © Spaswinefood

#spaswinefood travels in Txakoli wine country