Volcanic wines are made from grapes grown in volcanic soils. Northern New Mexico's volcanic wines are excellent examples of wines born in volcanic soils. Volcanic wines regions around the world are found in Italy, France, Greece, Chile, Argentina, and the United States. Exploring US volcanic wines became a hot topic for me after visits to the Canary Islands peeked my interest. Besides our July visit to New Mexico, a Southern Oregon roadtrip in May included Volcanic Winery in Klamath County, east of the Cascade Mountains. The winery produces small batch estate wines from American Hybrid grapes grown in Klamath Basin's volcanic soil at high elevation. Similarly, given its high-elevation climate, Northern New Mexico wineries also rely on resilient, experimental varietals. I was such a delight to be introduced to some of Northern New Mexico's volcanic wines.
Why the Interest in Volcanic Wines?
Volcanic wines have built cult followings because of their unique flavor profiles. While volcanic wines depend on grape variety and region, they do tend to share a few common characteristics. Characteristics like 1) Minerality, although not everyone agrees on this, is nearly always present in volcanic wine, and 2) an earthy smokiness. Volcanic soils tend to be rich in nutrients and minerals, which can add a complexity and sophistication to the wines. In general volcanic wines are celebrated for their high acidity, structured tannins, and mineral or savory characteristics.
New Mexico's arid climate and fertile Rio Grande Valley provides ideal growing conditions for wine grapes. Given such an ideal environment it is not surprising to discover that New Mexico has had a long history of wine making, dating back to 1629. The wine production in New Mexico continued to grow until the later part of the 19th century when the industry went through a major decline. Flooding problems with the Rio Grande; later Prohibition wiped out New Mexico's wine production. The wine industry however, was revived in 1978 when the government promoted the planting of French hybrid grapes. Today Northern New Mexico, in particular, has exciting wineries for wine enthusiasts seeking to explore volcanic wines.
During our recent visit to Northern New Mexico we dropped by two wineries in Dixon. Vivác Winery and Chiripada Winery, both of which produce wines grown in volcanic soils.
"Volcanic Wines" is a Hot Topic
Volcanic Wines has become a hot topic in wine magazine articles, such as Wine Enthusiast's Kevin O'Keefe discussion of exciting Italian Volcanic Wines, and Decanter's sharing a list of top Volcanic Wines. A Forbes article by Tom Mullins declares that Volcanic Wines has become a hot topic. Food and Wines Peter Weltman article on Volcanic Wines 101 notes what is distinct about grapes grown in volcanic soils "is the potential to grow some of the most mineral-laden and distinct wines on earth." Weltman reviews Volcanic Wine regions in (Italy (Campania and Sicily's Mount Etna), Hungary (lakeside to royal hills), Greece (volcanic islands), and Spain (Lanzarote). A Elin McCoy article lists eight places known for volcanic wines. In addition, McCoy discusses the activity generated around Szabo's book, and Szabo's organization of the first International Volcanic Wines Conference, followed by the second International Volcanic Wines Conference June 2019, with this June 2026 being the fifth conference in New York. A Rachel Arthur article points out that the buzz on Volcanic Wines started before the international conferences. The discussion was initiated by creating the category Volcanic Wines. Darrel Smith describes an Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW) Volcanic Wines seminar, which raised some of the key scientific questions on volcanic terroir.
Given volcanic wines have become a hot topic it has become a focus of my wine adventure inquiries in volcanic wine regions. I first encountered New Mexico wines over 10 years ago. Now, when appropriate do so, I can view the wines through a volcanic wines lens. I invite you to join me in my the sharing of wine adventures in New Mexico and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Bluesky and Facebook.
Cheers
My earlier posts (2025 & 2026) on Canary Islands volcanic wines discuss earlier encounters with Volcanic Wines.
1. Hot Topic: Canary Islands Volcanic Wines
Onboard Views, Santa Cruz de la Tenerife, March 2025 © Spaswinefood
No comments:
Post a Comment