Sunday, April 26, 2026

Hot Topic: Canary Islands volcanic wines

Spain's Canary Islands, just off the coast of West Africa, known for its year-round warm weather, beaches and volcanic landscape, is just perfect for a wine adventure. The Canary Islands wines first caught my attention during a March 2025 cruise stop. My first visit to the Canary Islands was to Tenerife, and so returning February 2026 to Canary Islands I was excited to, not only to return to Tenerife, but also visit Lanzarote. 

Lanzarote Vineyard Landscape © Spaswinefood

While both islands produce wine grown in volcanic soil, Lanzarote's vineyard landscape is quite a contrast to Tenerife's vineyard landscape.

Tenerife's Bodegas Monje Vineyard © Spaswinefood

The Canary Islands of Tenerife and Lanzarote are significantly different in their landscapes and water retention capacity. The islands closer to the Sahara Desert, such as Lanzarote, are the most arid, the flattest, and have the least amount of groundwater, along with the highest exposure to solar radiation. In contrast, the more western islands, such as Tenerife, experience greater cloud cover due to its higher altitudes. Tenerife is home to Mount Teide volcano (3715 m), which contributes to the formation of numerous mesoclimates, significant temperature variations, and more pronounced seasonality.

Indeed given the variation of growing conditions within the Canary Islands you can see why its volcanic wines have gotten attention. Based on my research I discovered that there are around 80 grape varieties grown on the islands, with 24 of them being local varieties, like Listán Negro and Listán Blanco. Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier writing about Canary Island wines for Wine Folly noted:

The highest elevation vineyards in Europe reside on a small island. The perimeter of this island houses small, sea level beach towns. In the middle of the island lives a 12,200 foot volcano. It takes an hour to drive from one end to the other, but from village to village, it seems as though you’ve gone to the moon and back. Jungles, deserts, tropical beaches, and mountains…it’s like every ecosystem became an expat and moved here. By rule, Spanish. By influence, Portuguese. By geography, a stone’s throw from Africa. Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier

Vignette from our Tenerife Wine Adventure

My second visit to Tenerife took us to Bodegas Monje. When we arrived in Santa Cruz off we went in taxi from the cruise port. We had the most delightful visit at Bodegas Monte near Tacotonte. Most Tenerife wineries are located in the north of the island, around TacoronteLa Orotava, and Icod de los Vinos.

Wine Tasting at Bodegas Monje 
We did a wine tasting before touring the winery's operations. The Monje family proudly continues a five-generation legacy of winemaking. Their wines are made primarily from Listán Negro, Listán Blanco, Negramoll, Tintilla, Vijariego negra and Marmajuelo grapes. These varieties have unique characteristics that clearly define the wines. The winery also experiments with other grapes. All of grapes are pre-phylloxera, which make them an ancestral legacy. 

On the patio overlooking the vineyard we tasted four wines.
Wine Tasting on the Patio © Spaswinefood
The first two wines introduced were a white and rosé (Bodegas Monje, 
Drago Bianco Seco & Bibano Rosado).
Wine Time, Bodegas Monje © Spaswinefood
Bodegas Monje Wine Tasting © Spaswinefood
Monje, Bibano Rosado, & Drago Bianco Seco, Isla Canarias DO
Bodegas Monje, Bibano Rosado & Drago Bianco Seco © Spaswinefood
Monje, Bibano Rosado & Drago Bianco Seco, Isla Canarias DOP 
Wine & Sex, Monje: Rosado & Drago Bianco Seco Wines © Spaswinefood
Next, we tasted two Bodegas Monje red wines.

 Monje, Listán Negro & Tradicional Tinto (Listan Negro), Isla Canarias DOP 
Bodegas Monje, Listán Negro, Isla Canarias DOP © Spaswinefood
Monje, Tradicional Tinto (Listan Negro) © Spaswinefood
It was a most delightful wine tasting. Our wine tasting on the patio allowed us to take in awesome vineyard and sea views.

Vineyard & Sea Views, Bodegas Monje © Spaswinefood

The Bodegas Monje wines produced from the traditional grape varieties grown there are influenced by the volcanic terroir where they grow. These volcanic wines are gaining attention for their uniqueness. Bodegas Monje produces mostly red wines. Their wines have been described as having attractive colors, mineral and fruity aromas, fresh, full, full of life. In short, they showcase their sense of place. We enjoyed being introduced to Bodegas Monje wines, which are produced from grape varieties native to the region. 


I have read that their distinctive wines pair beautifully with the rich gastronomy of the Canary Islands. During our tasting the four wines were paired with four different local cheeses.

Local Cheeses, Bodegas Monje © Spaswinefood

Later, when we toured the bottling area there was a display of the wines produced by Bodegas Monje.

Bodegas Monje Wines © Spaswinefood

Vignette from our Lanzarote Wine Adventure

Lanzarote's main wine-making areas are La Geria, Masdache and TinajoThe five main grape varieties grown on the island (whites: Malvasía Volcanica, Listan Blanco, Diego, and Moscatel de Alejandria, and red: Listan Negro). Since phylloxera never arrived on Lanzarote, the vines are all ungrafted. Given our limited time in port we signed up for a tour on Lanzarote's Wine Trail. The tour took us from the cruise port to La Geria. Our Lanzarote tour included two winery stops. Here we would visit vineyards amongst the volcanoes. It is not surprising that these volcanic wines are gaining attention for their uniqueness. I can see why volcanic wines have become a hot topic.

Lanzarote Vineyards

The vineyards are planted in formations, known as terraces, which help to improve the overall quality of the wines. This is despite the island's adverse weather conditions, especially the wind and the salt from the sea. In some cases the vines are grown in rows, sheltered by long walls.
A Closer Look: Lanzarote Vineyard © Spaswinefood
The majority have semi-circles of stones around the vines to protect them from the wind.
Lanzarote Vineyard © Spaswinefood
Given we visited during the winter the vines had yet to sprout. They grow in shallow pits called zocos. These pits are hand dug into the volcanic ash (rofe). Lanzarote has a hot desert climate with very little rain, which falls during the winter months.

The Lanzarote vineyards are quite unique. The vines are planted on land covered with volcanic ash. These vineyards are made up of holes, stone walls or both, this type of cultivation allows the grapes to grow. In particular the area around La Geria is where you will find several bodegas (wineries). Here you can, not only taste local wines but also, take in the unique volcanic vineyard landscape.

Vineyard, La Geria, Lanzarote © Spaswinefood
Vineyard Views, La Geria © Spaswinefood
When we pulled into the parking lot at Bodega La Geria and I surveyed the surrounding vineyards.  The ashy carpet of a volcanic field is a surreal sight of stone circles, scruffy brush, a distant volcano and and a few palm trees. I took in the scene. When a hot wind blows through this ashy soil, and I could only imagine how difficult it must be to work in these fields. Somehow they figured out that vines would flourish when planted into the fertile soil below the lava and volcanic ash. Semi-circles of stones around the vines protect them from the wind. This pattern continues, even on the volcanic hills.

Lanzarote © Spaswinefood

Lanzarote Wineries

We made two winery stops. Bodega La Geria, a wine shop and tasting room, was our first stop.

 Bodega La Geria © Spaswinefood

Our first winery stop was a busy place. We were quickly given two wines to try. Basically the only description I heard was dry and sweet.

Sampling Bodega La Geria's Wines © Spaswinefood

My first impression of local wines was not great. This was definitely influenced by the atmosphere where samples were quickly dispensed to visitors arriving on large buses. I did observe that Bodega La Geria has full range of wines for purchase. I am sure that some tours provide a better wine tasting experience than one we took. I would highly recommend booking a small private tour.

Bodegas Rubicón, the second winery stop, was just across the street. 

Tasting Room, Bodegas Rubicón © Spaswinefood

Here we were introduced to five different Bodegas Rubicón wines.

Bodegas Rubicón Wines © Spaswinefood

1. Bodegas Rubicón, Tinto Listán Negro
2. Bodegas Rubicón, Rosado Listán Negro
3. Bodegas Rubicón, Semi Dulce Malvasia Volcánica
4. Bodegas Rubicón, Amalia
5. Bodegas Rubicón, Seco Malvasía Volcánica

Bodegas Rubicón has an impressive history. In 1979 Don Germán López Figueras bought the Cortijo de La Geria, from the Fajardo family. He dedicated himself to his passion: winemaking. For decades, the winery has been dedicated to the artisanal production of wine.

Touring the winery we discovered first hand some of its history. We were free to tour the winery on our own.

Through the Door: Bodegas Rubicón © Spaswinefood
Courtyard, Bodegas Rubicón © Spaswinefood
Bodegas Rubicón © Spaswinefood

After the tasting we bought some additional wines to taste. We enjoyed these wines outside while taking in the views. 

Tasting Bodegas Rubicón, Rosada & Tinto Wines © Spaswinefood

Exploring volcanic wines from the Canary Islands has reminded me that there has been significant exploration of Volcanic Wines in the literature. 

"Volcanic Wines" is a Hot Topic
Volcanic Wines has become a hot topic in wine magazine articles, such as Wine Enthusiast's Kevin O'Keefe discussion of exciting Italian Volcanic Wines, and Decanter's sharing a list of top Volcanic Wines. Forbes article by Tom Mullins declares that Volcanic Wines has become a hot topic. Food and Wines Peter Weltman article on Volcanic Wines 101 notes what is distinct about grapes grown in volcanic soils "is the potential to grow some of the most mineral-laden and distinct wines on earth." Weltman reviews Volcanic Wine regions in (Italy (Campania and Sicily's Mount Etna), Hungary (lakeside to royal hills), Greece (volcanic islands), and Spain (Lanzarote). A Elin McCoy article lists eight places known for volcanic wines. In addition, McCoy discusses the activity generated around Szabo's book, and Szabo's organization of the first International Volcanic Wines Conference, followed by 
the second International Volcanic Wines Conference June 2019, with this June 2026 being the fifth conference in New York. A Rachel Arthur article points out that the buzz on Volcanic Wines started before the international conferences. The discussion was initiated by creating the category Volcanic Wines. Darrel Smith describes an Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW) Volcanic Wines seminar, which raised some of the key scientific questions on volcanic terroir. Given Volcanic Wines has become a hot topic it will continue to be a focus of upcoming inquiries

Similarly, in the Canary Islands, exciting discussions on Volcanic Wines are continuing to emerge. I have read about projects such as (1) Gran Canaria white wines from the Gran Canaria project of footballer David Silva at Bodegas Tameran, and (2) a partnership with Jonatan Garcia of Suertes de Marques, and David’s wines. Lanzarote's Puro Rofe wines have garnered critical acclaim both domestically and in export markets. All too soon our February 2026 visit to the Canary Islands was over.  I look forward to returning to the Canary Islands in the near future. Join me in the sharing of wine adventures from Canary Islands and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Bluesky and Facebook. 


Cheers




Sharon
February 2026
Tenerife, Canary Islands
© Spaswinefood

Last year, 2025, when we visited Tenerife and I wrote the following two posts:

Onboard Views, Santa Cruz de la Tenerife, March 2025 © Spaswinefood
 Bodegas Monje, February 23, 2026 © Spaswinefood

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Summary of one of my earlier posts on Volcanic Wines

John Szabo's Master Class on Volcanic Wines at the 2018 Rovinhud Wine Show in Timisoara, Romania was quite informative. Szabo, a Master Sommelier, has written a book entitled Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power. In his book volcanic soil is presented as a basis for understanding a wide range of grapes and wine regions. His Rovinhud presentation included wines from the volcanic regions of Greece, Italy, Sicily, and Hungary.

 Mount Etna Crater, Sicily 2014 © Spaswinefood

Obviously, such earlier travels influenced my decision to attend Szabo's session on Volcanic Wines at the 2018 Rovinhood Wine ShowSzabo was amongst the presenters at the show. His session was entitled Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power.

 Rovinhud Wine Show 2018 © Spaswinefood

Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power
Volcanic Wines, Rovinhud Wine Show 2018 © Spaswinefood
Master Class on Volcanic Wines, Rovinhud 2018 © Spaswinefood
We did take a further look at some Volcanic Wines from Greece, Italy, Sicily and Hungary that were shared during a Master Class.

Greece
The Greek Islands Arc have been identified as being of volcanic origin. While most volcanoes are inactive the most famous active volcanoes in Greece are Santorini, Nisyros, Methana and Milos island. During the class I tasted two wines from Santorini. Moreover, I have written a number of articles on Santorini wines.

Italy
My 2014 Spaswinefood travels to Sicily, Italy enabled me to explore the vineyards around Mount Etna's volcanic cone. The lower slopes of Mount Etna has fertile volcanic soil, which makes the area ideal for growing grapes. It was on this visit to Mount Etna that I had explored the area around the volcanic cone.
Mount Etna, Sicily 2014 © Spaswinefood
We drove up to the volcano in the mid-morning. The parking area near the top had good visibility. However, by mid-day, as we drove down the slope of the volcano, it became quite cloudy. The weather did not deter us from exploring the area on the volcano's slopes.
November 2014 , Slopes of Mount Etna © Spaswinefood
The lower slopes of Mount Etna has fertile volcanic soil, which make it ideal for vineyards. 
Countryside, Etna Area © Spaswinefood
During Szabo's Rovinhud presentation I tasted three wines from Campania and two wines from Sicily.

Hungary
The Hungarian wines shared came from regions where volcanic activity ceased long ago. The regions included a lakeside region (Badacsony), a volcanic mountain area (Somló-hegy, or Somló Hill area), and volcanic hills (Tokaj-Hegyáljs area).

Szabo's presentation provided insights into Volcanic Wines produced from grapes grown in volcanic soilsFirst, I must admit that the overall idea of a link between volcanic soils and wines makes sense. The Volcanic Wines Master Class was the perfect opportunity for me to get a more in-depth understanding of the diversity of volcanic wines from the various wine regions. I enjoyed getting to know wines from a volcanic wine perspective. Clearly, the exploration of Volcanic Wines adds a significant contribution to the overall understanding of terroir driven wines.


Without a doubt I learnt so much from Szabo's presentation, and the other Rovinhud master classes that I have attended. 
Szövérdfi-Szép Zoltán, Rovinhud Wine Show, 2018 © Spaswinefood
Special thanks to Szövérdfi-Szép Zoltán, Ceva de Spus Association, and the Rovinhud Wine Show for being such wonderful hosts during my Timisoara visit. 
Sharon
November 2018
Timisoara, Romania
© Spaswinefood

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Hot Topic: Canary Islands volcanic wines

Spain's Canary Islands,  just off the coast of West Africa,  known for its year-round warm weather, beaches and volcanic landscape, is j...