Wednesday, December 13, 2023

Portugal's Dão wine region: Gouveia to the coast

After spending a night at Quinta Madre de Agua Wine Hotel, Gouveia next day we would travel onto Aveiro, a city on the west coast of Portugal. The second day of our Dão wine country journey meant getting to see more of a region that produces some of the best Portuguese wines. A region known for crispy white wines, and some of Portugal’s most popular full-bodied reds. Some refer to the Dão as the Portuguese Burgundy.

Quinta Madre de Agua Wine Hotel © Spaswinefood

Quinta Madre de Agua, Gouveia

In case you are wondering Quinta Madre de Água, Gouveia, near Vinhó village, is a few minutes from Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela. It has a wine hotel, with a restaurant and a wine cellar. Its vineyards are surrounded by a mountain range, protecting them from external influences. They produced Touriga Nacional, Encruzado, Bical, Syrah, Merlot, Gouveio, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro, and Semillion wines, some of the best Dão wines, with unique aromas and flavors. Fortunately the evening before we enjoyed some of their wines over dinner. 

Dinner with Wine, Quinta Madre de Agua Restaurant © Spaswinefood

For sure it was a most delightful dinner after rainy day adventures in Dão wine country. We had come to a good place because they produced some of the best Dão wines, with unique aromas and flavors. That evening we enjoyed two of their wines. One was a Madre de Agua, Rosado, Dão DOC 2021.

Madre de Agua, Rosado, Dão DOC 2021 

Madre de Agua, Rosado, Dão DOC 2021 © Spaswinefood

The second wine was a Madre de Agua, Encruzado, Dão DOC 2018.

Madre de Agua, Encruzado, Dão DOC 2018

Madre de Agua, Encruzado, Dão DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood

Both of the wines served were very delicious. Indeed our first day in the Dão had ended well!

Next morning, we were ready to explore the quinta and its vineyards. 

Early Morning, Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

Here we saw Lusitano horses used for breed, teaching and dressage art. 

Beautiful Horse, Quinta Madre de Agua  © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

Welcoming Committee, Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

The estate also has bordaleira breed sheep, and goats however, we did not see them on our morning walk.

When we checked in we were told that there was an animal rescue on the property. The dogs did greet us that morning.

Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

This is a pet friendly property. We did meet friendly cats during our stay.

Tuxedo Cat, Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

We walked around checking out the nearby vineyards. The project consists of 4 estates (quintas) in the Gouveia area (60 hectares).

Vineyard, Quinta Madre de Agua  © Spaswinefood

I always love to explore vineyards whenever I visit a winery.

Spring Time, Quinta Madre de Agua  © Spaswinefood

Some of the plots in the vineyards were marked, for example, 
Talhão 1 (Plot 1), old vines were planted in 1961.
Talhão 1 (Plot 1), Old Vines, Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

Talhão 2: Old Vines (grafted) planted in 2008
Talhão 2: Old Vines (Grafted), Quinta Madre de Agua  © Spaswinefood

Talhão 3: Encuzado vines planted in 2009

Talhão 3: Encuzado, Quinta Madre de Agua  © Spaswinefood

Talhão 3: Encuzado Planted 2009, Quinta Madre de Agua  © Spaswinefood

Clearly, these spring time vines were off to a great start.

Quinta Madre de Agua Vineyard © Spaswinefood

We returned to the wine hotel for breakfast.

Restaurant, Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

We had the most delicious breakfast.

Breakfast Ready, Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

Breakfast, Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

After a delicious breakfast we were off to Aveiro. Let us take a look at the second day of our journey though the Dão wine region.

Exploring the Dão 

Our explorations of the Dão wine region continued as we headed for the coast, stopping at Quinta dos Roques, Boas Quintas, and Coimbra.


Quinta dos Roques 
Quinta dos Roques, a small estate, at 450m, is in the Dão heartland, just outside Abrunhosa do Mato. Luis and Luisa Lourenco family estate, produces a wide array of wines, both (traditional blending and varietal). Its Touriga Nacional is often cited as amongst Portugal's finest, while its Encruzado is often rated as one of the country's leading dry white wines.
Quinta dos Roques © Spaswinefood

Quinta dos Roques © Spaswinefood

During our Dão explorations we would sometimes pass by churches and religious sites.

 Church, Cunha Baixa © Spaswinefood

A Closer Look © Spaswinefood
Religious Site, Cunha Baixa © Spaswinefood

Religious Scene at Religious Site, Cunha Baixa © Spaswinefood
Religious Site, Cunha Baixa © Spaswinefood

Along the way we passed through Nelas, a small municipality in central Portugal.

Nelas © Spaswinefood

Soon we were on our way to Coimbra.

Nelas © Spaswinefood

From Nelas we headed towards Coimbra.

Road Signs © Spaswinefood
We were onto Mortágua area next.

Off to Mortágua © Spaswinefood

Boas Quintas, Mortágua
We stopped at Boas Quintas in Mortágua. The Sociedade Agrícola Boas Quintas winery at Quinta da Giesta  was founded in 1991, by Nuno Cancela de Abreu, whose family has been farming and making wine for over 130 years. In 2010 the winery expanded its production to include wines from several wine regions (Dão, Bucelas, Península de Setúbal, Alentejo and Douro). 

Entrance to Boas Quintas © Spaswinefood

This is a large wine estate.

Roses Blooming, Boas Quintas Vineyard © Spaswinefood
Boas Quintas Vineyard Spaswinefood
Springtime Blooms, Boas Quintas © Spaswinefood

After traveling by the vineyards we arrived at the winery.

Boas Quintas Winery © Spaswinefood
Welcome to Boas Quintas © Spaswinefood

This winery values biodiversity in wines.

Boas Quintas Biodiversity Program © Spaswinefood

Before leaving I took one last glance at a Dão vineyard.

Boas Quintas Vineyard © Spaswinefood

From Boas Quintas it was onto Coimbra.

Coimbra 
When we arrived in Coimbra it was raining heavily. Located on the banks of the Mondego River the city is famous for its university, the oldest in Portugal and one of the oldest in Europe. We managed to find a parking garage and then set out on foot to explore a little.

Rainy Day, Coimbra © Spaswinefood

Despite the rain we decided we would explore a little anyway.

Exploring Coimbra's Architectural History © Spaswinefood

We continue right towards the plaza.

Coimbra's Architectural Charms © Spaswinefood
Historic Coimbra © Spaswinefood
Heading towards Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova © Spaswinefood

Soon the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova came into view. Despite the rain I could not resist taking photos.
Onwards to Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova © Spaswinefood
Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova, Coimbra © Spaswinefood
Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova © Spaswinefood

Realizing that we needed to have lunch and escape from the rain off we went to the Cafe Restaurant.

Onto Cafe Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Cafe Restaurant © Spaswinefood

When we went inside for lunch at the cafe restaurant we discovered a beautiful historic building. I have since discovered that it was the former chapel of the Monastery of Santa Cruz. Yes, next door to the monastery since 1923 is one of Portugal’s most beautiful cafés. Without a doubt it is a Coimbra landmark, with the atmosphere typical of a monumental and classic European café.

Inside the Cafe Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Time for Tea, Cafe Restaurant © Spaswinefood
Admiring the Architecture of the Cafe Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Soon it was time to venture back out in the rain. We headed towards a alley way entrance adjoining the plaza.
Rainy Afternoon, Coimbra © Spaswinefood

We took a look around the plaza and continued towards the Biblioteca.

Municipal Library of Coimbra since 1922 © Spaswinefood
Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova & Restaurant Cafe © Spaswinefood

We glanced at Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova and Restaurant Cafe, and then peeped down the alley way.
Alley Way © Spaswinefood

It was a cold and wet afternoon so we decided to head back to the plaza and onto parking garage. I took a few more photos of the plaza.

On the Way Back, Coimbra © Spaswinefood
Around the Plaza View © Spaswinefood

The we continued on our way.

Rainy Day © Spaswinefood

Admiring the Architecture on a Rainy Day © SpaswinefoodLet's Turn Left Here © Spaswinefood

These few hours in Coimbra even on a rainy day was a rich introduction to the history to be explored here. Would have loved further insights into the stories behind its rich architectural history and tile details. 

Portugese Tile, Coimbra © Spaswinefood

Once back in the car we traveled onto Aveiro on the coast. Along the way we passed through Bairrada wine region, which I visited earlier that month.

Onto Aveiro

Eventually we arrived in Aveiro, which is set along Ria de Aveiro lagoon. This area is known for its canals. These canals are navigated by colorful boats (barcos moliceiros), which have traditionally used to harvest seaweed.

Barcos Moliceiros, Ria de Aveiro Lagoon © Spaswinefood
Barcos Moliceiros © Spaswinefood

After taking in the canal views it was onto our hotel, Pousada de Ria. That evening we would enjoy a well earned glass of Dåo wine.

Pousada de Ria, Aveiro © Spaswinefood

Our second day of travels along the Dão wine trails from Quinta Madre de Agua to Aveiro richly added to our earlier Dão wine country travelsI invite you to join me in my wine travels in Portugal and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood or on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to future vine-filled explorations in Portugal. 


CHEERS!

Sharon 
May 2023
Travels in Portugal's Dão's Wine Region
© Spaswinefood

Follow me on Twitter and Facebook

Carol Making Friends, Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

Spring Time, Boas Quintas Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Cafe Restaurant, Coimbra © Spaswinefood
Follow me on Twitter and Facebook

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