Sunday, December 10, 2023

Portugal's Dão wine region: A first glimpse

After a most wonderful Douro Valley visit we (Carol and I) traveled onto the Dão wine country, a mountainous region (400-700 meters high) in the Center of Portugal. It was a rainy morning as we left Quinta Manhãs Douro, Provesende, in Alto Douro and headed towards Viseu. Despite it being a rainy day we decided to do some wine country explorations on our way to Quinta Madre de Agua in Gouveia for the night. Next day, we would head for Aveiro on the coast, passing though more Dão wine country along the way. 

Quinta Madre de Agua, Gouveia © Spaswinefood

Off to Portugal's Dão Wine Region

This post will share our first glimpse of Dão wine region as we traveled there from the Douro Valley.

Vilarinho de São Romão © Spaswinefood

The Dão wine region is protected by the mountains from the Atlantic winds, giving it a temperate climate. Its soil is rich in schist and granite. We were excited to explore a region that produces some of the best wines in Portugal. Known for crispy white wines and some of Portugal’s most popular full-bodied reds. Some refer to it as the Portuguese Burgundy.

We awoke that morning in Quinta Manhãs Douro, Provesende to discover a misty morning.

Quinta Manhãs Douro © Spaswinefood
Misty Morning, Quinta Manhãs Douro © Spaswinefood

After breakfast we left. Soon we were passing by Vilarinho de São Romão. Right from the start we encountered mist filled valleys with rain along the way. Still, we were excited to explore what awaited us in the Dão.

Grey Sky and Vineyards © Spaswinefood

We paid careful attention to the road signs indicating we were on our way. We planned for our first explorations to be in around Viseu.

Onwards to Viseu © Spaswinefood
Off to Viseu © Spaswinefood

Viseu 
It was not long before we arrived in Viseu.

One of the best towns to visit in Portugal, Viseu is known for its hilltop old town, an ancient cathedral towering over it, the scenic cobbled alleyways, and its vast plazas. (Ivan Ivoylov, Viseu City Guide)

Soon we were driving through Viseu in the rain. We headed towards city center.

Viseu in the Rain © Spaswinefood

Loving Viseu on a Rainy Day © Spaswinefood

We managed to see some of the city's beautiful architecture despite the rain

Looming over the town center the beautiful cathedral was started in the 12th century and is a prime example of Manueline, Renaissance, and Mannerist architectural influences. It has two beautiful bell towers and a stunning main building. Inside, it is one of the most opulent tributes to Catholicism, with its vaulted nave ceiling, the golden altar, and one-of-its-kind atmosphere of a holy place.  Head here to unveil the majesty of Viseu’s past and its unique romantic ambiance. (Ivan Ivoylov, Viseu City Guide)

Captivating Viseu © Spaswinefood
Discovering Viseu Architecture © Spaswinefood

Before leaving we stopped briefly to visit a local park.

Park, Viseu © Spaswinefood

From what I have read:

It is not just home to many architectural treasures but is also frequented for the highly delectable Dao wine from the neighboring Dao region and its mouthwatering cuisine. Whether you are an architecture buff, wine lover, or foodie, Viseu has plenty to offer you. (Ivan Ivoylov, Viseu City Guide)

Given our limited timeline and it was a rainy day we decided to travel onwards. 

First Glimpse of Dão Wine Country

Travels in the Dão © Spaswinefood

Catching glimpses of towns along the highway we were determined to see some of wine country. We had come in search of wineries in the Dão, one of the oldest established wine regions, a ‘Denominação de Origem Controlada’ (DOC or ‘Controlled Denomination of Origin). It is home to Touriga Nacional, one of the best known grape types used for Port wine.

Through the Rain © Spaswinefood

Paço dos Cunhas, Santar

Since our plans included a stop at Paço dos Cunhas, and so off we went. Located in the Santar village it has been producing wine for over 400 years. It uses certified organic agriculture.  For many generations it has been a producer of olive oil, fruit and wine, a major supplier to Oporto's marketplace.

Paco dos Cunhas, Santar  © Spaswinefood

Paço dos Cunhas (16km from Viseu), a beautiful 17th century building, is a Global Wines enterprise renovation, completed by Portuguese architect Pedro Mateus. Besides its restaurant, Paço dos Cunhas de Santar offers wine workshops, show-cooking activities, and wine cellar visits.  These days it is positioned to become one of the best wine tourism projects in Portugal.

Arrival at Paco dos Cunhas © Spaswinefood

After arriving in the parking lot we were excited about the possibility of having lunch here.  Before entering we took in the vineyard views.

Paço dos Cunhas Vineyard © Spaswinefood
Vineyard Viewing, Paço dos Cunhas © Spaswinefood

We explored the grounds at Paço dos Cunhas before going inside.

Paço dos Cunhas © Spaswinefood
Courtyard, Paço dos Cunhas © Spaswinefood

When we did manage to get inside the restaurant reservations were filled for that day for an event. I did manage to get their wine list, and pick up a few bottles to taste later.

Paço dos Cunhas Wine List © Spaswinefood

Although a little disappointed that we could not have lunch there we continued on our way.

Silgueiros Wine Trail 

Silgueiros was nearby we headed out to check out the Silgueiros wine trail before traveling onto our accommodations for the night.

Silgueiros Wine Trail © Spaswinefood

After a few missed turns, along the driving route we arrived at the entrance to Quinta de Lemos.

Quinta de Lemos © Spaswinefood

We continued on down the driveway towards Qunita de Lemos, passing vineyards along the way.

Vineyard, Quinta de Lemos © Spaswinefood

We arrived at parking lot at Quinta do Lemos.

Parking Lot, Quinta de Lemos © Spaswinefood

Taking in the Views, Quinta de Lemos © Spaswinefood

Even we did not find that it was opened we loved the opportunity to view Qunita de Lemos.

Views from Quintas de Lemos © Spaswinefood

We made the most of our rainy day travels to gain a glimpse into Dão wine country.

Quinta Madre de Agua 

After a rainy day's drive, it was onto our hotel that we booked for the night. We headed towards Gouveia where we stayed at Quinta Madre de Agua. Quinta Madre de Água, Gouveia, near Vinhó village, is a few minutes from Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela. We had booked it based on a suggestion by, plus it got good reviews. We were about to discover a wine hotel, with a restaurant and a wine cellar. We were not disappointed. 

That evening after checkin we ate dinner at their restaurant.

Quinta Madre de Agua Restaurant © Spaswinefood

We soon discovered an inviting restaurant. During dinner we selected two of their wines. The first wine was a 
Madre de Agua, Rosado, Dão DOC 2021.

Madre de Agua, Rosado, Dão DOC 2021 

Madre de Agua, Rosado, Dão DOC 2021 © Spaswinefood
Madre de Agua, Rosado, Dão DOC 2021 (backlabel) © Spaswinefood

For our main course Carol and I ordered the following:

Meat Pie, Quinta Madre de Agua Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Pasta with Mushrooms, Quinta Madre de Agua Restaurant © Spaswinefood

The second wine was a 
Madre de Agua, Encruzado, Dão DOC 2018.

Madre de Agua, Encruzado, Dão DOC 2018

Madre de Agua, Encruzado, Dão DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood

Both of the wines served were very delicious.

For sure it was a most delightful dinner after our rainy day adventure through Dão wine country. We had come to a good place because they produced some of the best Dão wines, with unique aromas and flavors.

Dinner with Wine, Quinta Madre de Agua Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Yes, we ordered dessert.

Chocolate for Dessert, Quinta Madre de Agua Restaurant © Spaswinefood

It was a lovely dinner it was after a long day's drive in the rain. We were so glad to have come to such a relaxing place after a long day.

Restaurant, Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

Next morning, before leaving  Quinta Madre de Aqua, we would explore its vineyards. 

Quinta Madre de Agua Wine Hotel © Spaswinefood

Despite the rain it was a great intro to the Dão. Our travels along the Dão wine trails would continue the next morning. Visiting Quinta Madre de Agua visit was indeed a highlight of our Dão wine travels. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Portugal and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I look forward to sharing more on my vine-filled explorations in Portugal. 


CHEERS!

Sharon 
May 2023
Travels in Portugal's Dão's Wine Region
© Spaswinefood

Follow me on Twitter and Facebook

Carol Making Friends, Quinta Madre de Agua © Spaswinefood

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