Umbria has much to offer gastronomic adventurers. Before heading to Italy we decided to add Umbria to our wine country travel plans. While we certainly found our wine country travels in Italy to be amazing, we soon discovered that Umbria is ideal for those looking for more relaxed enotourism experiences. We managed to secure accommodations in Izzalini village, close to the medieval city of Todi. From there each day we set out to discover Umbrian wines and local cuisine.
Umbrian Wines, Unique Cuisine and More
Umbria while noted for its crisp, iconic white wines, the region also makes intriguing reds. Orvieto DOC where wine is defined by Trebbiano grape, is the region's largest appellation, accounting for 10% of production. Grechetto, the next most prominent white variety, has a supporting role in Orvieto DOC and other Bianco wines. Most of the other white wine DOCs also allow Grechetto. It is home to the native red grape Sagrantino, and as well Sangiovese, Colorino and other indigenous Italian varieties do well here. Some international grapes, namely Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are also grown. Best known is the region’s flagship red wines, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG and Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG (both of these are complex and age worthy), while Montefalco Rosso and Rosso di Torgiano are overall more approachable wines. Umbria Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) wines are mostly made with international grapes; these wine typically range from easy drinking to full-bodied, complex wines.
Umbrian Cuisine has its origin in Etruscan times, and is characteristically simple, relying heavily on seasonal ingredients. Umbrian cuisine is very rustic, often described a cucina povera (peasant cooking), which means it is built on traditional dishes created with minimal ingredients, and is prepared using mainly local products (grains, vegetables, fresh herbs, and of course olive oil (Umbria’s liquid gold). Umbrian traditional dishes have been handed down through generations but still maintain the principles of simplicity and freshness. The Etruscans, not only influenced the development of regional cuisine, but also were the first to produced wine in Umbria.
A Closer Look: Todi, Umbria © SpaswinefoodUmbria is defined by hills, mountains, valleys and historical towns (Perugia, Assisi, Terni, Norcia, Città di Castello, Gubbio, Spoleto, Orvieto, Todi, Castiglione del Lago, Narni, Amelia, Spello, and other small cities/villages). It is often referred to as the green heart of Italy where travelers delight in exploring its medieval hilltop towns, dense forests, and local cuisine (especially truffles and wines). During our stay in Izzalini we visited the historical towns of Todi and Orvieto, and explored Orvieto and Montefalco wine country.
Umbrian Vine-filled Adventures
Let me highlight a few of our Umbrian vine-filled adventures.
City of Todi, Umbria © SpaswinefoodAdventures in Todi, Umbria
Todi is both a town and a municipality in Perugia province, in the Umbrian region of central Italy. It is perched on a double crested hill overlooking the east bank of the Tiber River, with distant views in every direction. This historic city is surrounded by three concentric walls: the outermost wall is medieval, the middle wall is Roman, and the innermost wall is partly Etruscan. Most of Todi's main monuments are medieval (the Todi Cathedral Duomo, the Palazzo del Capitano, the Palazzo del Priore and the Palazzo del Popolo. They all front on the main square (Piazza del Popolo) on the lower part of the hill. What a backdrop it was for our gastronomic explorations!
Todi, Umbria © SpaswinefoodWe were most fortunate to visit the city's historic center a number of times.
Our visits were an opportunity to sample local wines and food.
La Catina Del Mercataccio
During one of the visits we ate lunch at La Catina Del Mercataccio.
Naturally we were excited to checkout the local food and wines over lunch.
La Catina Del Mercataccio © SpaswinefoodFor wine we decided on a local producer, Agricola La Segreta, a charming small estate in the heart of the Umbrian countryside along the Tiber River Valley.
Agri Segretum, Marmocchio, DOC Todi Sangiovese 2013
The 2013 Marmocchio (the rascal) is 80% Sangiovese, blended with the estate’s local Umbrian grape variety, Sagrantino 20%, which adds structure and style to the wine. Here are the dishes we had.
Cauliflower in Wine, La Catina Del Mercataccio © Spaswinefood
We choose pasta for our main plates.
After a most delicious lunch we explored the historic center around the plaza.
John's Restaurant
One of our countryside outings took us to John's Restaurant, just on the outskirts of historic Todi. Over lunch that day we enjoyed a bottle of Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG wine from a local wine producer.
Let's take a peek at the inviting salad.
The food at this restaurant was so delicious. Here are our main dishes.
Many of the dishes here are decorated truffles. Umbria seasonal produce includes mushrooms, wild asparagus, other fresh vegetables, and its highly prized truffles. Truffles play an important part in many Umbrian dishes, appetizers, pasta and risotto dishes are served with grated black or white truffles. Umbrian truffles are so celebrated that in the fall and winter there are numerous festivals and markets held.
Dessert was spectacular! Not only did it look good but it was so tasty. Regrettably, we did not try any of the more traditional Umbrian desserts during our travels.
Of course having lunch out is always a great option in Umbria.
Whenever we visited we enjoyed exploring historic Todi. Nevertheless driving on those narrow streets in the historic center proved to be quite interesting at times. Indeed, it is was fun doing gastronomic explorations within the Todi Municipality.
Izzalini village is within the municipality of Todi ( 5.81 kilometers from Todi), in Perugia Province, Umbria region. I still remember waking up those October mornings and taking in the views from our bedroom window. Some of those days we could see early morning fog across the valleys in the distance.
Each day we would head out to explore Umbrian wine country, usually returning to Izzalini at day's end.
Exploring Local Cuisine
Overall dining out in Italy is pretty amazing. This is certainly the case in Umbria. Correspondence we received concerning our accommodations noted there was a good restaurant in the village. After arriving we set out to explore Umbria paying little attention to this recommendation. We did drop by for a morning coffee. Fortunately about mid-way through our stay we dropped by for lunch.
Morning Coffee
Coffee is good in Italy however, if you are use to a big cup of coffee it takes some practise to know what to order. Most of the locals order an expresso.
Lunch and More
Returning late for lunch one day we would be delightfully surprised with the excellent food at Kairos Cafe.
We began with a complimentary appetizer.
For lunch we ordered a local white wine. John decided on a green salad and I ordered chickpea salad.
Now for the main plates John ordered a meat dish, and I decided on a pasta.
Through our stay John enjoyed a number of very tasty meat dishes. The region has an abundance of meat dishes, like lamb, pork, and game, with most being either grilled over the fire or cooked on the spit with an abundance of herbs. In particular, Umbria is well known for its roasted suckling pig.
My main plate was an amazing pasta dish.
We had one of our best lunches in Italy there.
The hilltop village of Izzalini was a perfect base for exploring Umbrian wine country. Being off the tourist beaten path led to pleasant drives through the rural countryside to visit wineries and Umbria's historic towns.
Our week in Umbria, a region with a proud history and age-old tradition for winemaking, introduced us to an area, which can rival anywhere in the country for its natural beauty.
Orvieto
Orvieto, the Umbrian city from which the surrounding wine region takes its name, is perched atop an outcrop of volcanic rock. This historic city origins dates back to the Etruscan era, long before it became a stronghold of the Roman Empire. Underneath Orvieto's cobbled alleyways and medieval piazzas, there is a network of underground caves dating back to the city’s ancient origins. It was in these underground cellars that the Etruscans produced the first wines for Orvieto clergy. The city is surrounded by sweeping hills and fields of vineyards as far as the eye can see. During our visit to Orvieto we explored its historic center, and took in panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
Orvieto
A stop at Giardini Comunali di Orvieto before entering the city center is a good idea however, we did it at the end. Either way it is a must visit to take in the views. A large tuff stone arch is at the main entrance. From this site you get incredible views overlooking the Paglia river and the surrounding Umbrian countryside. Orvieto, the city from which the wine region takes its name, is perched atop an outcrop of volcanic rock. The Orvieto Citadel can be seen for many miles around. Winemaking began here during the Etruscan era when a network of underground caves was established. Today, winemaking is a cornerstone of Orvieto’s economy, and the city is surrounded by sweeping hills and fields of vineyards as far as the eye can see. Orvieto is Umbria’s most productive wine area, accounting for around 80% of Umbria’s total vineyard area.
After we arrived in the parking lot at the outskirts of historic center we head towards the historic center, which is pedestrian friendly.
Off we went to the historic town center.
Soon we are heading down even narrower streets to explore dining options.
Now here are the pastas we had.
I am sure we shared a dessert. Obviously, we need more time to explore both cuisine and the city. A good reason to return in the future.
After lunch we headed back to the parking lot, enjoying historic Orvieto along the way.
Leaving Orvieto © SpaswinefoodWe dropped by Giardini Comunali di Orvieto to take in those panoramic views before driving back to Izzalini.
Orvieto's Wine Country
Decugnano Dei Barbi in Umbria's Orvieto was well worth the drive. Shortly after our arrival we set out to explore wine country. The week passed too quickly, as we visited the sub-regions of Umbria's wine country, and the region’s historic towns, like Todi and Orvieto. Our explorations took us through hilly landscapes, passing endless vineyards along the way. When I reached out, Decugnano Dei Barbi, a boutique family winery, was able to schedule a time for us.
Santa Maria di Decugnano Church, Decugnano Dei Barbi © Spaswinefood
The Special Magic of Decugnano Dei Barbi
Decugnano Dei Barbi is, not only a place with great views and amazing wines but, also a place of historical and geological significance. From its hilltop position you have panoramic views all the way to Orvieto. Decugnano Dei Barbi sits on the captivating site of a 13th century hilltop village where monks once produced wine for Orvieto clergy. Decugnano Dei Barbi is a family-run winery that stays true to its roots. The site is located on the grounds of Santa Maria di Decugnano Church, hence the name. It was restored in 1973 following the Italian boom in the 1960s.
Decugnano Dei Barbi is located in the Orvieto wine region that takes its name from Orvieto, the city. The city is perched atop an outcrop of volcanic rock. In fact Orvieto's Citadel can be seen for many miles around. From the hilltop at Decugnano Dei Barbi there are distance views. The city dates back to the Etruscan era, long before it became a stronghold of the Roman Empire. Underneath the cobbled alleyways and medieval piazzas of the city there is a network of underground caves, which dates back to the city’s ancient origins. These underground cellars is where the Etruscans produced the first wine in Orvieto. Today, winemaking is a cornerstone of Orvieto’s economy, and the city is surrounded by sweeping hills and fields of vineyards as far as the eye can see. Orvieto is Umbria’s most productive wine area, accounting for around 80% of Umbria’s total vineyard area.
Along the way to Decugnano Dei Barbi we took in views of Orvieto perched atop a volcanic rock outcrop in the distance.
After driving for over an hour on winding roads through the countryside we finally arrived at the winery entrance.
Our Visit to Decugnano Dei Barbi
The drive up to the estate entrance was a beautiful one, winding through the Umbrian countryside. Our host, greeted us with a warm welcome. The Barbi family began by producing wines originally for the pleasure of family and friends. After ten years their wines started to win awards. This success prompted Decugnano Dei Barbi to expand production, and offer tours and tastings. It is now a boutique winery, run by the Barbi family.
When we walked by the vineyards, our host explained how the soil we were standing on was once the bed of the Mediterranean Sea. Even though that was millions of years ago, we could still see shells in the ground, and later we viewed fossils in the walls of the cellar caves. These unique vineyard growing conditions add more minerals and salt to the wine in comparison to other producers across the valley.
We also toured the production facility before the wine tasting.
Later, we walked up to the site of the old church, which has been carefully restored and updated to host tastings. From the church there were spectacular views across the Umbrian valleys.
Our tasting at a church was unique. When you enter the carefully restored church you are immediately struck by the beauty of the setting.
We took our seat at a grand table in the main room of the old church.
Decugnano Dei Barbi Wines © Spaswinefood
We first tasted Sauvignon Blanc and then a, an elegant blend of Grechetto, Vermentino, Chardonnay, and Procanico. These wines are grown in soils of fossilized sea shells. In fact we could almost taste the sea salt in the wine, making them so very good!
1. Decugnano Dei Barbi, L'Inquisitore, Umbria Blanco IGT 2020 (100% Sauvignon Blanc)
This wine is a very special Sauvignon Blanc.
2. Decugnano Dei Barbi, Il Blanco Mare Antico, Orvieto Classico Superiore DOC 2020
This Orvieto Classico Superiore DOC wine is an elegant blend of Grechetto, Vermentino, Chardonnay and Procanico.
Third wine was a red, the Il Rosso: a powerful, full-bodied blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Montepulciano.
3. Decugnano Dei Barbi, Il Rosso A.D. 1212, Umbria Rosso IGT 2019
This Umbria Rosso IGT wine is a blend of 65% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Montepulciano. Its vinification was in stainless steel, 1/3 refined in French oak barrels for 12 months.Our wine tasting was accompanied by cheese and meat platters. During the tasting we also had the opportunity to try their Olive Oil (Decugnano Dei Barbi Extra Vigin Olive Oil A.D. 1212). While touring the property we viewed the olive harvest.
In fact driving to the winery we also saw olive trees growing in nearby properties. Umbria has five different DOP denomination varieties of olive oil (Colli Orvietani, Colli Martani, Colli Amerini, Colli di Assisi-Spoleto, and Colli del Trasimeno). Umbria’s largest production centre for olive oil is in the area directly around Trevi which is covered with silver leaved olive trees as far as the eye can see.
What an awesome setting for a wine tasting!
Decugnano Dei Barbi Wine Caves and More
We ended our winery visit at the cellar caves. During the Etruscan era the construction of underground caves also occurred in the countryside beyond Orvieto. The Etruscan era caves on Decugnano Dei Barbi property were dug out by monks in the 13th century. The undergone cellars natural and consistent temperature and humidity create the perfect environment for maturing wine. As we walked through we could view the cellar's wall and feel the humidity. These caves are used to produce the Metodo Classico Brut vintage sparkling wine, made with 50 % Chardonnay and 50 % Pinot Noir.
Indeed the history of these caves are very unique.
Seeing the underground caves was the perfect way to end our visit. We viewed fossils in the walls of the cellar caves. Earlier, as we walked the property we saw shells in the soil however, seeing the fossils in the caves rock wall brought geological history into full view.
As we walked back to the car we discussed leaf changes in the fall, and stopped to get more photos of Orvieto wine country.
Decugnano Dei Barbi in Umbria's Orvieto is a must visit. The Magic of Decugnano Dei Barbi is captivating. Decugnano Dei Barbi runs a variety of tours, tastings, and other experiences such as cooking classes. You can enquire and book online at www.decugnanodeibarbi.com. While Orvieto is the largest wine producing region within Umbria other top sub-regions include Assisi, and Montefalco.
Montefalco
Interest in Montefalco vineyards has grown because of the dry red Montefalco Sagrantino, and most recently its Trebbiano Spoletino is gaining attention. In the future, Montefalco could become known for exceptional reds and whites. Montefalco wine country was not on my radar until a recent visit to Umbria. After a quick recharge upon arrival in Umbria we set out to explore nearby wine country. Some have described Umbria, as the green heart of Italy. Umbria is a region with a rich history and a long tradition for winemaking. While it does not enjoy the same recognition as neighboring Tuscany, Umbria produces some of Italy’s most unique and exquisite wines. Moreover, the area can rival anywhere in the country for its natural beauty. During our week in Umbria we visited some of the region’s historic towns, in doing so we traveled through hilly landscapes of endless vineyards. During our stay we explored Umbria’s top wine sub-regions: Assisi, Montefalco and Orvieto. This post will focus on Montefalco, Umbria's best known region.
Montefalco Wine Country
Montefalco, a charming hilltop town in the middle of Umbria, is one of the best known for its winemaking. From the town, known as the balcony of Umbria, you can see across vineyards and olive groves to a mountainous horizon in the distance. The area has a relaxed approach to life and a closeness with nature. These days Montefalco is becoming well known for the Sagrantino grape, which is indigenous to the area. Sagrantino has been cultivated as far back as the 16th century, when monks used it to make sweet wine. In the 1970's it underwent a revival, and has grown in popularity ever since. Today there are over 2,400 acres of Sagrantino vines planted around Montefalco. In addition to Sagrantino, the region has other tradition varieties, such as Trebbiano Spoletino and Grechetto (white), and Sangiovese (red). Trebbiano Spoletino is a wine that was a delight to discover. Perhaps a little background is in order. Umbria is known for an obscure white grape variety, called Trebbiano Spoletino. It grows around the hilltops of Montefalco, Spoleto, and near Perugia. Regrettably, Trebbiano is a name that is associated with huge productions of mediocre and dull white wines. Umbria's Trebbiano Spoletino, with its own unique DNA is an exception. For this reason some have suggested that Trebbiano Spoletino might be best named Spoletino. In fact the gaining in popularity of Trebbiano Spoletino is similar to what has happened in the revival of Sagrantino.
Cantina Le Cimate
Before setting out to explore Montefalco wineries I did some research and came up with a list. I contacted those wineries on the short list and received an immediate reply from Cantina Le Cimate. Our visit to Le Cimate allowed me an introduction to Montefalco's wines.
The views from Cantina Le Cimate are amazing.
Views from Cantina Le Cimate, Montefalco © Spaswinefood
Cantina Le Cimate
Cantina Le Cimate is on a hilltop with stunning panoramic views of Montefalco, the Umbrian Valley and the mountains beyond. Le Cimate, one of the newest wineries in Montefalco, was founded in 2011 by Paolo Bartoloni. The winery however, is built on old roots of tradition and knowledge. Wine has been in Paolo’s family for years, dating back to his grandfather who dedicated his life to agriculture and grape-growing. The estate was passed to Paolo in 2010, when his grandfather gave him 180 hectares of land. Most of the space is used to grow vineyards and olive trees, maintaining the family traditions, but recently Paolo has repurposed some land to grow hazelnuts, as he seeks to diversify and grow the business.
Its hill top location with a 360 degree panorama views, on one side the Monti Martani mountains and on the other side the city of Montefalco, is indeed an ideal location for a winery.
Our Experience
It was October and so I reached out to wineries that were open for visits. Cantina Le Cimate responded to my inquiry and so off we went. We toured the winery and did a wine tasting.
The harvest was nearing its final stage. There were some grapes drying for later vinification.
After the tour we left the winery and walked to Cantina Le Cimate’s tasting room.
But where did the name Le Cimate come from? It is unusual for a family-oriented business not to take the family name. A priest who lived in the house called it Le Cimate, which means top of the hill. Often people assume there is a connection with climate, but in this case it has a completely different meaning. The winery’s logo has two half moons, representing the two Cs of Cantina and Cimate.
Soon after we arrived in the tasting room we were joined by Paolo. We were lucky to have Paolo join us for part of the tasting. For me it is always extra special to meet the person/people behind the founding and management of a winery.
Paolo is clearly very proud, passionate and excited about his work. While we chatted about the winery he shared his enthusiasm about its grow and development in the future.
Le Cimate Wine Tasting
We began with two Trebbiano Spoletino wines, Trebbiano Spoletino DOC and Trebbiano Spoletino Superior DOC.
1. Cantina Le Cimate, Trebbiano Spoletino DOC
Cantina Le Cimate, Trebbiano Spoletino DOC © Spaswinefood
2. Cantina Le Cimate, Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino Superior DOC
Cantina Le Cimate, Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino Superior DOC © Spaswinefood
We particularly liked these Spoletino wines.
Moving on, we sampled a series of reds. We also tasted two sweet wines
Our host brought us a plate of meats, cheeses and breads.
Now let's continue with the wines.
We sampled a series of reds.
3. Cantina Le Cimate, Sagrantino DOCG 2016
4. Cantina Le Cimate, Montefalco Rosso DOC
5. Cantina Le Cimate, Macchieto Umbria IGT 2015
Given 2015 was not available for purchase I am so glad we tasted it at the winery. Macchieto is 50% Sagrantino and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon.
6. Cantina Le Cimate, Macchieto, Umbria IGT 2016
We concluded the tasting with two sweet wines:
It was a sweeting ending. Still what really stoodout for us was a 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG, with a strong a rich character and lasting taste. Our favorite wines however, were the Macchieto wines. We left that day impressed by these wines.
I am so glad we got to experience Sagrantino wines, especially Le Climate Macchieto wines (Super Umbrias), and their Trebbiano Spoletino wines. You can book tour and tasting experiences, and buy Cantina Le Cimate products online at www.lecimate.it.
Umbria is ideal for those looking for more relaxed enotourism experiences. Our week in Umbria passed too quickly as we explored a region with a proud history, age-old winemaking tradition, and unique culinary offerings. While it does not enjoy the prestige of Tuscany Umbria produces some of Italy’s most unique and exquisite wines, and has the most inviting cuisine. Moreover, the area can rival anywhere in the country for its natural beauty. We enjoyed getting to know Izzalini, Todi and Orvieto, and exploring Orvieto and Montefalco wine country. I invite you to join me in our wine travels in Italy and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing our future vine-filled explorations in Italy.
Santa Maria di Decugnano Church, Decugnano Dei Barbi © Spaswinefood
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