Italy provides amazing opportunities for gastronomic adventures. We certainly found this to be the case during our Umbrian wine country travels. We managed to secure accommodations in Izzalini village, close to the medieval city of Todi. From there each day we set out to explore Umbrian wineries and local cuisine. This post will highlight a few of our culinary adventures in Todi.
City of Todi, Umbria © SpaswinefoodAdventures in Todi, Umbria
Todi is both a town and a municipality in Perugia province, in the Umbrian region of central Italy. It is perched on a double crested hill overlooking the east bank of the Tiber River, with distant views in every direction. This historic city is surrounded by three concentric walls: the outermost wall is medieval, the middle wall is Roman, and the innermost wall is partly Etruscan. Most of Todi's main monuments are medieval (the Todi Cathedral Duomo, the Palazzo del Capitano, the Palazzo del Priore and the Palazzo del Popolo. They all front on the main square (Piazza del Popolo) on the lower part of the hill. The piazza is often used as a movie set. What a backdrop it was for our gastronomic explorations!
Todi, Umbria © SpaswinefoodWhile in an earlier post I focused on Izallini, within the municipality of Todi, this post is primarily on the city's historic center. We were most fortunate to go there a number of times during our week in Umbria.
Cuisine, Wine and More
Umbrian Cuisine has its origin in Etruscan times, and is characteristically simple, relying heavily on seasonal ingredients. Umbrian cuisine is very rustic, often described a cucina povera (peasant cooking), which means it is built on traditional dishes created with minimal ingredients, and is prepared using mainly local products (grains, vegetables, fresh herbs, and of course olive oil (Umbria’s liquid gold). Umbrian traditional dishes have been handed down through generations but still maintain the principles of simplicity and freshness. The Etruscans not only influenced the development of regional cuisine but also were the first to produced wine in Umbria.
Our visits to Todi was an opportunity to sample Umbrian wines. Orvieto DOC (Trebbiano grape) is the region's largest appellation. Umbria while noted for its crisp, iconic white wine, the region also makes intriguing reds. It is home to native red grape Sagrantino, as well as Sangiovese, Colorino and other indigenous Italian varieties. Some international grapes, namely Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are also grown. Best known is the region’s flagship red wines, Montefalco Sagrantino and Torgiano Rosso Riserva (both are complexity and age worthy), while Montefalco Rosso and Rosso di Torgiano are overall more approachable. Umbria Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) wines are mostly made with international grapes; these wine typically range from easy drinking to full-bodied, complex wines.
La Catina Del Mercataccio
During one of the visits we ate lunch at La Catina Del Mercataccio.
Naturally we were excited to checkout the local food and wines over lunch.
La Catina Del Mercataccio © SpaswinefoodFor wine we decided on a local producer, Agricola La Segreta, a charming small estate in the heart of the Umbrian countryside along the Tiber River Valley. Everything at La Segreta (The Secret) is done by hand, and all of the crops are certified organic.
Agri Segretum, Marmocchio, DOC Todi Sangiovese 2013
Our appetizer option was cauliflower in wine. It was a tasty choice.
Cauliflower in Wine, La Catina Del Mercataccio © Spaswinefood
We choose pasta for our main plates.
It was a most delightful lunch.
When we left we said goodbye to the two wonderful pets at the restaurant.
After a most delicious lunch we explored the historic center around the plaza, and then returned to Izzalini.
John's Restaurant
One of our countryside outings took us to John's Restaurant, just on the outskirts of historic Todi.
Despite it being a busy Sunday afternoon we did manage to get a table.
Over lunch that day we enjoyed a bottle of Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG wine from a local wine producer.
Let's take a peek at the inviting salad.
The food at this was so delicious. Here are our main dishes.
I ordered a truffle decorated pasta. Many of the dishes here are decorated truffles.
John ordered a meat plate.
Dessert was spectacular. Not only did it look good but it was so tasty.
Of course having lunch out is always a great option in Umbria. We were very happy exploring lunch options in Todi.
Whenever we visited we enjoyed exploring historic Todi. Driving on those narrow streets in the historic center proved to be quite interesting at times.
Eventually the streets got a little wider.
Further Along, Historic Todi Streets © Spaswinefood
Indeed, it is was fun doing gastronomic explorations in Todi,
On our way back to Izzalini I always loved to see the city of Todi in the distance.
A Closer Look: Todi, Umbria © SpaswinefoodOur week in Umbria passed too quickly as we visited its historic towns and checked out wine country's gastronomic offerings. Umbria is a region with a proud history and age-old tradition for winemaking. Moreover, the area can rival anywhere in the country for its natural beauty. Earlier articles focused on Izzalini, and winery visits to Orvieto and Montefalco wine country. I invite you to join me in our wine travels in Italy and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing our future vine-filled explorations in Italy.
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