It was the end of May, 2022 when my wine travels took me to Santorini. I had come to explore Greece's indigenous grape variety Assyrtiko (A seer' tec ko), indigenous to Santorini, and arguably Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety. For sometime now I have been learning about this grape's great diversity. Grown in the arid volcanic-ash-rich soil of Santorini and other Aegean islands, it is also found in other regions of Greece, planted as far north as Drama in Greek Macedonia. It is a versatile grape variety, from which wines can be made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines, known as Vinsanto. For sure coming to its place of origin, Santorini added to my appreciation of Assyrtiko.
Welcome to Santorini, Greece © Spaswinefood
Welcome to Santorini
Santorini, regarded as the most famous of all Greek islands, is also one of the top tourist destinations in the world. The amazing caldera formed by the volcanic eruption centuries ago, has resulted in the most stunning sea views a human eye can ever see. Fortunately, we had come just before the start of the peak tourist season, June through September.
Beginning of the Tourist Season, Santorini © Spaswinefood
While in Santorini I took advantage of the early mornings to explore the island.
Santorini's Uniqueness in the Wine World
Santorini's fertile volcanic land produces products with distinctive flavors. Of course wine is at the top of this list. The island is renowned for its tradition in wine making and fine wine varieties.
Since 2015 I have been drawn to Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. Greek wines with their impressive history are exciting to explore. In fact for me Greek wines made with indigenous grape varieties are amongst the most exciting. Moreover Santorini's Assyrtiko, Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety, is amongst the most unique.
One of the amazing discoveries for me during a virtual session on Assyrtiko hosted by Cinque (March 2021) was, there are ancient Assyrtiko vines on Sanitorini. For sure Santorini's Assyrtiko vines are amongst the most interesting. On the average these vines can reach 70 years old, and some of the vines are amongst the oldest in Greece. Growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training the vines into "baskets", winding the canes into wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds. Since advanced vine age tends to effect wine quality because yields are reduced, this enhances Assyrtiko's potential to make some very complex wines.
Equally interesting is the fact that Assyrtiko vines adaptation to lack of water in the soil. The growers have helped by placing the vines further apart. Moreover, the adaptation of the vines has resulted in the primary root(s) reaching around 5 meters, with the secondary roots being close to the surface to absorb humidity in the air.
For sure the Santorini terroir presents some challenges that significantly affect wine growing. The island is dry enough to be classified as a desert on the Köppen climate scale, and also very windy. On the plus side, the harsh volcanic soils of the island's vineyards have prevented the spread of phylloxera. Unlike most of Europe, the vines do not need to be grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstocks.
The grape's versatility, however, is that it can also be made into a dry wine, yellow-gold in color with mineral, pear, apple and citrus blossom aromas and flavors. Some versions are fermented in barrel. Naturally high acidity means that Assyrtiko wines can age for many years. Assyrtiko is sometimes blended with the Athiri and Aidani grape varieties on its native Santorini, in both dry and sweet styles. These days Athiri and Aidani are usually minor components of the blend. Assyrtiko, occasionally seen in Retsina, appears to be falling from favor for that purpose, as more varietal Assyrtiko wines are being crafted.
For sure the March 2021 Assyrtiko session peeked my interest in knowing more about this wine; hence prompted me to visit to Santorini.
Exploring Assyrtiko in Santorini
Assyrtiko was a must on my wine travel list. For sometime now I have been excited to learn more about this wine with great diversity. It is a versatile grape variety, with wines being made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines known as Vinsanto. For sure Santorini added to my appreciation of Assyrtiko.
Yes, I know Santorini is drop dead gorgeous! Still how can you not check out its wines, especially Assyrtiko. While in Santorini I visited the following three wineries with two #winelover friends, Carol and Deborah.
Here our wine tasting was an introduction to Santorini.
2. Gavalas Winery
Gavalas Winery, Santorini, Greece © Spaswinefood
In this youtube video Vaselis describes vine growth on Santorini.
3. Domaine Cigales
As we arrived at Domaine Sigalas their vineyard came into view.
Kir-Yianni acquired Santorini's Sigalas in 2020. Paris Sigalas remains as winemaker and on the board, with Stellios Boutaris as CEO. Clearly the future of Domaine Sigalas, under the direction of Stellios, will be exciting to watch.
For sure I was impressed by the wine tasting at Domaine Sigalas.
Wine Tasting, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood
Late Afternoon, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood
Exploring the Vineyard, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood
After the tasting we were encouraged to visit the vineyard. Overall, one of the amazing discoveries for me was to see how Santorini grape growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training their vines into baskets. Baskets are created by winding the canes into wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds.
I look forward to doing future posts on winery visits.
During my winery visits in Greece I was delighted to have my friend Carol, as a traveling buddy. Also, while in Santorini, we meet up with Deborah.
Exploring Santorini with Winelover Friends © Spaswinefood
It is a wine with great diversity. Where ever our travels took us around the island we saw grapevines thriving despite the island's windy conditions.
Grapevines and Windmills, Santorini © Spaswinefood
The Quintessential Santorini
We did manage to do a sunset cruise the day before leaving. Many of the tour companies were just starting the tourist season that weekend. May is when the tourist start to invade the island.
When I left with Santorini, I took with me not only appreciation for its wines but also, deep memories of the quintessential colors of Santorini.
Quintessential Colors of Santorini © Spaswinefood
Santorini's quintessential colors dot the landscape. This adds to the island's charm. Just add some Santorini Assytiko to that list and it is pure nirvana!
Let the Assyrtiko Conversations Continue
My interest in Assytiko peaked after March 2021 when Cinque hosted a virtual wine tasting where our conversations focused on Assyrtiko wines. These conversations transported me immediately to Greece. Moreover, as always, friendship centered around Greek wines is priceless. It is both friendship and attempting to understand sense of place that will always inspire a wine discussion. Let the Assyrtiko Conversations Continue !
Given that 2020-21 was challenging for wine travelers, I am so glad that some of us found new ways to virtually experience and/or relive our wine adventures. Special thanks to Evangelie, Greg and Nikitas for sharing their passion for Greek Wines.
Cinque THANK YOU for not only hosting the above virtual session but helping with my recent Santorini travels.
Assyrtiko Discovers in Santorini
Santorini is a must on a wine traveler's list. Santorini and Assyrtiko shared with friends spells nirvana! There is so much I have come to appreciate about Greek wines. This is definitely the case of Santorini's Assyrtiko. Each time I return to Greece my wine world is filled with amazing grape adventures. My recent visit to Greece provided me with the most amazing wine adventures. Each visit I am more, and more impressed by Greek wines, produced from both indigenous and international grape varieties. Those who have yet discover today's Greek wines now is the time. Now is the time to explore Greek Wines! I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.
CHEERS!
Majestic Santorini © Spaswinefood
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