Wednesday, March 2, 2022

Explore Bordeaux wines, even old Bordeaux style wines pass their prime

I have enjoyed exploring Bordeaux wines over the years; so when a wine lover friend gave us some old Bordeaux style wines I was delighted. Before sharing the outcome of opening a few bottles of old red Bordeaux styles wines let me briefly review Bordeaux wines. After all you might ask, "what is special about Bordeaux red wines?" While perhaps there are many possible answers there are two points, which I would like to make. First, the aging potential, and second the price. The tannins are often high enough in Bordeaux red wines that these will age for decades. Yes, I know some Bordeaux wines can be quite expensive but overall, they are amongst the best buys. Often you can pickup good red Bordeaux wines in the 40-50 dollar range, and some in the 20's.

La Dame de Montrose, Chateau Bellegrave,  Chateau Lalande-Borie © Spaswinefood

Bordeaux Wines © Spaswinefood

Bordeaux Wines

First, I must admit Bordeaux wines present a challenge for some of us to make sense. Let me recall a sharing of wines from one of the most important Bordeaux regions, the Left Bank. This is an area where Cabernet Sauvignon wines dominate. The Left Bank Bordeaux Blend by law includes Cabinet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carmemere (rarely). The general flavor profile is black cherry, black current, cedar, cinnamon, baking spices, and graphite. Whereas, the general taste profile is dry, full body, medium-high tannins, medium acidity, with 13.5-15% ABV.

Photo of The Wine Districts of Bordeaux

It was an event where we were walked through the tasting of each wine by Claire "Sudsy" Torbeck  who drew from her extensive enological background. That event included five 2016 Bordeaux red wine blends from the Left Bank, from St-Estephe, Pauillac, St-Julien, and Margaux within Haut-Medoc area, and Pesac-Leognan within the Graves area.

La Dame de Montrose, Saint Estephe; Bellegrave, Pauillac; Lalande-Borie St-Julien © Spaswinefood

It was indeed a special treat when Claire introduced us to 2016 Bordeaux wines. We did not explore any wines from the Right Bank, or Entre-Deux-Mers areas. Neither did we explore white wines, or any of the recent rosé wines from Bordeaux. Obviously, there is so much to learn about Bordeaux wines. 

Claire "Sudsy" Torbeck © Spaswinefood

So if you are thinking about picking up some Bordeaux red wines to store then 2016 would be a good vintage to do so. Yes, you can store them until 2023 and beyond.

Checking the Wines © Spaswinefood
Bordeaux Wine Classification 1855 was done by wine brokers who ranked Chateaus based on reputation and price. Based on that system Chateaus were ranked from first through to fifth growths (crus in French). Needless to say, many Chateaus were not included in the original system. Ranking creates a bias given the perception of quality influences price. Nevertheless, these days do not be surprised if second growth ranking is getting a higher price than a first growth. 

To keep this discussion brief when we consider Bordeaux wines the following is an overview:

1. Bordeaux Red Wines

Left Bank Bordeaux Blend by law includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carmémere (rarely).


Right Bank Bordeaux Blend includes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon.


Blind Tasting of Bordeaux and Bordeaux Style Wines © Spaswinefood


2. Bordeaux White Wines

A tiny part of Bordeaux’s wine production is dedicated to white wines. These wines are made with Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and the rare Muscadelle.

2016 Bordeaux Reds and Sauternes Ready to Cellar © Spaswinefood


3. Sauternes and the Sweet Side of Bordeaux

Sauternes, a sweet wine from the Sauternais region of Graves. It is made from Sémillon, Sauvignon blanc, and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by Botrytis cinerea (noble rot). Sauternes is one of the few wine regions where infection with noble rot is a frequent occurrence. Even so, production can be a hit-or-miss proposition, the harvests results vary from vintage to vintage. Wines from Sauternes, especially the Premier Cru Supérieur can be very expensive, largely due to the very high cost of production. Barsac lies within Sauternes, and is entitled to use either name. Similar but less expensive and typically less-distinguished wines are produced in the neighboring regions of Monbazillac, Cérons, Loupiac and Cadillac. 


2016 Coutet, Sauternes,  Barsac

2016 Coutet, Sauternes Barsac © Spaswinefood

These days Bordeaux has a sweet side to checkout. Bordeaux's sweet side is amazing. It is so easy to fall in love with the Sweet Wines of Bordeaux. Founded in 2009 by the Union des Grands Vin Liquoreux de Bordeaux, Sweet Bordeaux is a brand of sweet and dessert white wines, from eight Protected Designations of Origin (DOCs) vineyards within the Bordeaux region. The slow, painstaking harvesting process and limited production makes Sweet Bordeaux especially rare and selective white wines. 


In conclusion, exploring Bordeaux's wines has been both enlightening and delightful. For sure Bordeaux wines have made an impact around the world. Many wine regions around the world have been making Bordeaux style red wines for a long time. During my wine travels I have enjoyed Bordeaux style wines in  the wine regions of Argentina, Australia, California,  Chile, Romania, and South Africa.


Old Bordeaux Style Red Wines © Spaswinefood

Bordeaux Style Wines 

Given Bordeaux style wines impact around the world I have enjoyed getting to know these wines as well. Such is the case with the two older Bordeaux style wines that we recently opened. If Bordeaux red wines age for decades because of their high tannins will Bordeaux style wines also age for decades too? Some will and others less so, I suspect. The following two wines are but two examples, and are not meant to be representative.

1999 Bordeaux Style Red Wines (bottom two) © Spaswinefood

1. Carmenet, Moon Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley, California 1999

Carmenet, Moon Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley 1999 © Spaswinefood

Carmenet, Moon Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 © Spaswinefood


Carmenet, Moon Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley, California 1999 (Cabernet Sauvignon 76%, Cabernet Franc 9%, Merlot 8%, Petit Verdot 7%) The average rating for 1999 vintage for this region was 90 - Excellent)

2022 Vintage Chart: In Decline - Pass Prime Drinking 


Conclusion: Yes, pass its prime


2. Rosemount Estates, Traditional Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot, South Australia (McLaren Vale & Langhorne Creek )1999

Rosemount Estates, Traditional, South Australia 1999 © Spaswinefood

Rosemount Estates, Traditional, 1999 (back label) © Spaswinefood

Rosemount Estates Traditional Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot, South Australia (McLaren Vale & Langhorne Creek )1999 (Cabernet Sauvignon 75%, Merlot 15%, Petit Verdot 10%) The average rating for 1999 vintage for this region was 89 - Very Good.


2022 Vintage Chart: In Decline - Pass Prime Drinking 


Conclusion: Yes, pass its prime


Overall the two Bordeaux style wines still showed good color for their age. Their taste did not hold up, as to be expected for this age. Needless to say, this will not discourage me from adding new Bordeaux wines to the cellar, such as 2018 Chateau Siran. 


Chateaux Siran 2018 © Spaswinefood

I plan to continue exploring Bordeaux wines, even old Bordeaux style wines. Obviously my goal will drink them before they pass their prime. I invite you to join me in my future wine adventures at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 


CHEERS!

Antigua, Guatemala 
Sharon
March 2022
© Spaswinefood


Red Bordeaux Wines © Spaswinefood
Discovery Session: Sweet Wines of Bordeaux, WMC21 © Spaswinefood

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1 comment:

  1. Since January 2021 new allowed varieties include:
    Red: Touriga Nacional, Marselan, Castets, Arinarnoa
    White: Alvarinho and Liliorila

    Thanks Brad for bringing this to my attention.

    ReplyDelete

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