No visit to Madrid is complete without visiting its historic taverns and tapas bars. Perhaps, you have heard about Madrid's tapas bars. I know, over the years, I have heard many of such stories from fellow travelers. Amongst my earlier gastronomic adventures in Madrid I discovered some delightful restaurants, and of course a few tapas bars. Last May, when I returned to Madrid with my sister, Georgia, visiting its historic taverns and tapas bars was at the top of our list.
Tortilla Española and Cerveza, La Buha © Spaswinefood
We booked an apartment on Grande Via in Central Madrid, which was the perfect location for exploring nearby historical sites, and checking out the local culinary scene.
Gran Via, Madrid May 2024 © Spaswinefood
I was so excited to be back in Madrid, for a three day stopover. Shortly after arrival, off we went to explore the nearby historical sites, and the culinary scene in Madrid's historical center. Central Madrid has many squares, or plazas with a rich history that have evolved over time. After checking into our Gran Via apartment, amongst our first stops was Plaza Mayor, one of Madrid's most historic squares.
Madrid's Historical Center: Tapas Bars
Much has been written on Madrid's tapas bars and historic taverns in Madrid's historic center. Besides exploring on our own, we decided to take a foodie tour of central Madrid. We did a Tipsy Tapas Food Tour with Viator. We were not disappointed!
Tipsy Tapas Food Tour, Madrid © Spaswinefood
We met up with Sky, our guide at 5:30 pm on a very hot day in late May. Madrid has many hot late spring and summer days. Our meetup point was in La Latina neighborhood, which is very popular with Madrid residents due to its numerous bars, pubs and traditional taverns. It is also full of charming streets such as Cava Baja, Cava Alta; and squares like, Plaza de la Cebada and Plaza de la Paja.
Before sharing some of our discoveries I would like to share a few stories about the origin of tapas. One such story is the custom began when bar keepers covered their customers' drinks with a slice of bread, ham or cheese to stop flies and dust from entering. According to popular legend, this custom began in the 13th century, under King Alfonso X. Another variation of this legend is that an ill King Alfonso X, needed to have small snacks and small amounts of wine in between meals in order to recover. After the king's health returned, he decided that inns and bars in Castile would always serve a snack alongside wine. There are other countryside legends about the working class needing stamina for long working hours. Hence, farmers and workers had a glass of wine and small snacks to sustain themselves while working.
Obviously, no matter the origin, tapas are commonly served appetizers or snacks in Spanish cuisine. They can also be a full meal, and are both cold or hot tapa options. In fact both in Spain and across the globe, tapas have evolved into a sophisticated cuisine. In some Central American countries they are known as bocas, whereas in Mexico they are sometimes called botanas. For sure one of the best places to explore tapas is central Madrid. I'll begin with our first tapas stop in the La Latina Neighborhood, La Buha.
Taberna La Buha La Latina © Spaswienfood
1.Taberna La Buha La Latina
Taberna La Buha, located in the popular La Latina neighborhood, is famous its Tortilla Española (Spanish Omelette).
Taverna La Buha La Latina © Spaswinefood
Tortilla Española and Cerveza, La Buha, May 2024 © Spaswinefood
The tortilla española served here was definitely much better than supermarket quality. In fact, I discovered that most tortillas españolas (Spanish Omelettes) that I have been served over the years did not rise like La Buha's.
La Buha Tortilla Española © Spaswinefood
Cutting into a La Buha Tortilla Española © Spaswinefood
I left there hoping that my future Tortilla Española servings would be as good as this one. At least now I know! The beer was good too, but I only did a tasting. Given there would be more stops on the tour I did not want to get tipsy. After all, it was called the Tipsy Tapas Food Tour.
La Buha © Spaswinefood
After leaving La Buha we stopped in a small plaza for a brief history lesson. For sure, this stop was a perfect introduction to Madrid's history of its walls. There were five successive sets of walls that surrounded the city, from the Middle Ages until the end of the 19th century.
History of Madrid's Walls © Spaswinefood
History of Madrid's Walls © Spaswinefood
One of Madrid's Historical Walls © Spaswinefood
2. Taberna La Concha
La Concha: Vinos y Tapas © Spaswinefood
La Concha: Vinos y Tapas © Spaswinefood
Of course no visit to Madrid was not complete without checking out Taberna La Concha, which we did.
A more recent addition to Madrid’s vermouth scene, Taberna La Concha opened its doors in 1996 on Cava Baja. Located on the city’s famous ‘tapas street’ in the La Latina neighborhood. It is a popular hangout with locals.
La Concha: Vinos y Tapas, Madrid © Spaswinefood
Upon our arrival our vermouth cocktail was prepared.
Vermú at La Concha: Vinos y Tapas, Madrid © Spaswinefood
Our host made us a vermouth cocktail called Manuela, for which La Concha has become know.
La Concha: Vinos y Tapas © Spaswinefood
To accompany the vermouth there was a cheese plate.
La Concha: Vinos y Tapas © Spaswinefood
We were treated to some Spanish cheeses. This was a great pairing.
La Concha: Tapas (Spanish Cheese) © Spaswinefood
La Concha: Time for Tapas (Spanish Cheese) © Spaswinefood
I have read that visitors often find the locals perched at the bar, enjoying a glass of vermouth. While we enjoyed the cheeses with our vermouth, La Concha’s delicious prawn toasts is also suggested an accompaniment.
La Concha: Vinos y Tapas (Vermouth & Cheese) © Spaswinefood
I appreciated this vermouth and tapas experience being part of our tour. During recent trips to Spain I have been introduced to some exciting vermouths (such as Pradó and Co).
Soon, we were off exploring and discussing this areas rich history along the way to our next stop.
Touring Madrid's Historic Taverns and Tapas Bars © Spaswinefood
Touring Central Madrid © Spaswinefood
Touring Central Madrid © Spaswinefood
On Tour in Central Madrid © Spaswinefood
3. La Casa del Abuelo
La Casa del Abuelo, one of the most representative historical taverns in Madrid, is one that you should not miss. It is more than 100 years old, and it specializes in all variety of shrimp tapas. Tradition is preserved, given today everything is served the same way as 100 years ago!
La Casa del Abuelo © Spaswinefood
When we arrived the wine was being poured. Here the tradition is to eat shrimps with the red sweet wine called El Abuelo. This tradition has made this tavern famous.
La Casa del Abuelo © Spaswinefood
Pouring the Wine, La Casa del Abuelo © Spaswinefood
Upon arrival we gathered around the tables at La Casa del Abuelo.
La Casa del Abuelo © Spaswinefood
La Casa del Abuelo © Spaswinefood
There was shrimp of course to sample.
Shrimp Time, La Casa del Abuelo © Spaswinefood
While most enjoyed the shrimp some of us were served tomato tapas. Accommodations were made for vegetarians and other dietary options on the tour.
La Casa del Abuelo © Spaswinefood
Again, off we went exploring and discussing the rich history along the way.
4. Restaurante Sobrino de Botín
Our guide made sure, we knew some of the history of Restaurante Sobrino de Botín.
Restaurante Sobrino de Botín © Spaswinefood
I appreciated learning some of the history of this restaurant. Restaurante Sobrino de Botín has been described as the oldest operating restaurant in the world. It was founded in 1725 by Frenchman Jean Botin and his wife. It was originally called Casa Botín however, when Botin's died in 1753, a nephew, Candido Remis, changed the name to Sobrino de Botín (Sobrino, Spanish for nephew). The restaurant has some famous names associated with it over the years. Artist Francisco de Goya worked here as a waiter before attending the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. The restaurant and its speciality cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) are mentioned in Ernest Hemingway's novel (The Sun Also Rises), and the book Fortunata y Jacinta by Benito Pérez Galdós (published 1886–1887).
Maybe at some future date I will dine here. It is certainly has a rich culinary history. I have read that they are still using the original recipes, and the restaurant has kept the flame burning in the oven continuously, never been extinguished.
5. Mesón del Champiñon
Meson del Champiñon is one place in Madrid that you should not miss. Their juicy mushrooms are the best! It is located near Plaza Mayor, but this tiny hole in the wall is easy to miss.
Mesón de Champiñon © Spaswinefood
While we waited outside we chatted about its history. It was quite busy, and so we had to wait for room to enter.
Waiting for Entry to Mesón de Champiñon © Spaswinefood
It was very crowded at Mesón de Champiñon. Given the historical tapas bars and taverns are very small they are not able to accommodate large numbers. Before entering Mesón de Champiñon we were told to form a line against the wall and wait for service.
Mesón de Champiñón © Spaswinefood
After entering when one group left we were able to move to the bar area.
Full Capacity at Mesón de Champiñón © Spaswinefood
There was a cave (small room) with tables adjoining the bar area. I managed to take a photo.
Waiting for Service, Mesón de Champiñón © Spaswinefood
Once we reached the bar I loved being able to take in the view.
Waiter Serving Mushrooms, Mesón de Champiñón © Spaswinefood
Bar Service, Mesón de Champiñón © Spaswinefood
I even managed to take a picture of our group at the bar.
Mesón de Champiñón © Spaswinefood
Time to Enjoy Mushrooms & Sangria, Mesón de Champiñón © Spaswinefood
We had the option of having white or red sangria with our mushrooms.I could not resist taking a picture on bills on the wall.
Around the World, Mesón de Champiñón © Spaswinefood
I even managed to take a picture of Georgia and our new friend from Dubai.
Sangria Time at Mesón de Champiñón, Madrid, May 2024 © Spaswinefood
All to soon we were off to our last stop on Plaza Mayor.
6. Plaza Mayor
Our guide introduced us to the twelve grapes ritual. Apparently the ritual began in 1866, when Queen Isabella II installed a clock on a building. Every year since on that night on 31st of December before the clock strikes 12, one grape is eaten for each strike of the year’s last 12 rings of the bell.
Plaza Mayor, Madrid, May 2024 © Spaswinefood
Our last stop was in Plaza Mayor at a candied grape stand.
Plaza Mayor, Madrid, May 2024 © Spaswinefood
Our tapas tour ended on a sweet note, with an introduction to the twelve grapes ritual.
Much has been written on Madrid's tapas bars and historic taverns. In an earlier article I noted that Madrid's historical and culinary explorations are a perfect mix! Of course no visit to Madrid is complete without checking out its tapas bars and historic taverns. For us watching sunsets and sunrise over Central Madrid from our apartment on Gran Via was also a special treat.
Sunrise over Gran Via, Madrid © Spaswinefood
Our tour of Madrid's tapas bars and historic taverns was definitely a highlight of our visit to Madrid.
La Buha, Madrid © Spaswinefood
La Concha: Vinos y Tapas, Madrid © Spaswinefood
Without a doubt Madrid is the perfect place for a combo historical and culinary adventure. For sure, no visit to Madrid is complete without checking out some of the many tapas offerings. Moreover, there is also plenty of quality Spanish wine available to sample. I invite you to join me in my wine travel adventures in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.
Sharon
May 2024
Madrid, Spain
May 2024
Madrid, Spain
© Spaswinefood
Sangria Time, Mesón de Champiñón, Madrid © Spaswinefood
Culinary Explorations, Plaza Major, Madrid © SpaswinefoodFollow me on Twitter and Facebook
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