Friday, June 14, 2024

Spotlight on Tokaj's female winemakers: An introduction

Since my first introduction to Tokaj wines I have strived to learn more; so last month when I visited Tokaj (toe-kye) it was a dream come true. It is best known for its Furmint wines, indigenous to Tokaj, which are produced in a variety of styles, ranging from bone dry to extremely sweet. While it is a grape that is susceptabile to botrytis, its high acidity makes it excellent for the production of sweet wines. Most recognize its stardom as a sweet wine however, Furmint is increasingly being used to create fresh, fruity, mineral-tinged dry wines. Moreover, Furmint is also being used in the making of sparkling wines. Though Furmint is not the most-planted variety, it is an important Hungarian grape to know.  Besides the joy of learning about this grape, Furmint both creates and brings memories to your wine glass. After traveling from Budapest, concluding the day with three female winemakers in Tokaj was fabulous. 

Stephanie Berecz, Sarolta Bárdos & Judith Bodó © Spaswinefood
Upon arrival in Tokaj we check into Andassy Manor and Spa in Tarcal. From there we walked to Wine Research Institute where we received an introduction to the region. Tokaj Wine Region, taking its name from the town of Tokaj, was established in 1737. It was the first wine region in the world to create an official vineyard classification. While the region is best known for its Tokaji Aszú, a noble sweet wine, in recent years it is also receiving attention for its dry white, and sparkling wines. After a welcome to the region we were introduced three female winemakers: 

1. Judith Bodó, Bott Winery,
2. Stephanie Berecz, Kikelet Tokaj, and
3. Sarolta Bárdos, Tokaj Nobilis

They introduced themselves, their winery, and shared their wines during dinner.  

We began with Judith Bodó sharing her wine story and introducing the wines.

Judith Bodó, Bott Winery
Judit Bodó, Bott Winery © Spaswinefood

Judit came to Tokaj in 2000 from Slovakia. There she had attended agricultural college, and fell in love Jóska (or Józsi) Bodó, her husband, who studied art history. Jóska followed her to Tokaj where they would later establish a winery. 

The first wine she introduced was actually a project, which the three winemakers participated in making.

A Három Grácia, Tokaj, Hungary 2022 

A Három Grácia, Tokaj, Hungary 2022  © Spaswinefood

A Három Grácia, Tokaj, Hungary 2022  © Spaswinefood

The 2022 A Három Grácia  wine was made by Judit Bott, Sarolta Bárdos and Stéphanie Berecz. They have been described as:

... excellent women winemakers with similar philosophies but different styles and flavours. Their wines complement each other nicely.


The Bodo wines we tasted at the end of dinner included:

Bott-rytis late harvest 2022
Bott-rytis late harvest 2022 © Spaswinefood
Bott, Tokaji Szamorodni, Csontos Vineyard 2022 
Bott, Tokaji Szamorodni, Csontos Vineyard 2022 © Spaswinefood

Next, Stephanie Berecz
 introduced her wines.

Stephanie Berecz, Kikelet
Stephanie Berecz, Kikelet © Spaswinefood

Stéphanie Berecz, a Loire Valley native came to Tokaji, after earning her oenology degree in Bordeaux, to work for the prestigious Disznoko estate. There she meet her husband Zsolt, and in 2002 they started their own project. They founded Kikelet (blooming spring in native dialect) in Tarcal, where her husband’s family has been for over two hundred years. They are focused on producing Furmint and Hárslevelű  wines, the two local grape varieties.

I tasted two of Stephanie Berecz wines during dinner.

We were welcomed with a Kikelet, Tokaji Sparkling Brut 2020.

Kikelet, Tokaji Sparkling Brut 2020
Kikelet, Tokaji Sparkling Brut 2020 © Spaswinefood
Kikelet, Tokaji Sparkling Brut 2020 (backlabel) © Spaswinefood

The sparking wine was a Furmint and Hárslevelű  blend. During dinner a Hárslevelű wine was served.

Kikelet Hárslevelű, Lonyai Vineyard, Tokaj 2021
Kikelet Hárslevelű, Lonyai Vineyard, Tokaj 2021 © Spaswinefood

Sarolta Bárdos, Tokaj Nobilis
Sarolta Bárdos, Tokaj Nobilis © Spaswinefood

Sarolta Bárdos, Tokaj Nobilis vineyard and winery was founded by Sarolta Bárdos in 2000. The family's winemaking tradition in Tokaj goes back several generations. In fact her family still cultivates some areas that grandfather was given. The family's six hectares are in two areas: Barakonyi and Csirke-Mál, renowned for outstanding quality wines, with first mention dating back to 1600. They focus is on producing the best of Furmint, Hárslevelű, Yellow Muscat and Kövérszőlő.

Her Furmint, and Hárslevelű wines were served during dinner.

Tokaj Nobilis, Barakonyi Furmint (dry) Organic, 2020
Tokaj Nobilis, Barakonyi Furmint (dry) Organic, 2020 © Spaswinefood

Tokaj Nobilis, Barakonyi Hárslevelű (dry) Organic, 2020
Tokaj Nobilis, Barakonyi Hárslevelű (dry) Organic, 2020 © Spaswinefood

What a way to end the day! It was a full, but fabulous day with the Federation International of Wine Brotherhoods (FICB) International Wine Challenge, Hungary 2024, hosted this year by Pannonia Wine Sisterhood. Special thanks to the Pannonia Wine Sisterhood for hosting the 2nd FICB Wine Tasting and Rating Challenge in Hungary, 23-28 May 2024.

Spotlight on Wines of Tokaj's Female Winemakers © Spaswinefood

In a world where the big named wineries of Tokaj most often take the spotlight it was great to meet these Tokaj winemakers Judit Bodó, Bott WineryStephanie Berecz, Kikelet Tokaj, and Sarolta Bárdos, Tokaj Nobilis. I sure would love to engage in a wine retreat with winemakers like Judit,Stephanie and Sarolta. Now, is also the time explore Hungarian WinesI invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Hungary at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

CHEERS!


Sharon
May 2024, Tarcal
Tokaj, Hungary
© Spaswinefood

Spring Time Vineyard, Tokaj, Hungary © Spaswinefood

This is my first wine story from 2nd FICB Wine Tasting and Rating Challenge in Hungary, 23-28 May 2024. As a member of the KOV (Knights of the Vine) Tahoe Chapter it was a pleasure for me to attend the FICB in Hungary. For sure each visit to Hungary, this was my third time visiting Hungarian wine country, has provided me with the most amazing wine adventures.

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