Txakoli wines of Basque Country

When your wine travels take you to San Sebastián then you know you are in for a special treat. Basque Country, in Northeast Spain, is not only has its own culture and language, but also its rich wine making tradition. Moreover, Basque Country (known locally País Vasco, or Euskadi) is renowned for its innovative gastronomy and striking landscapes. Last May I joined WineMine friends from Portugal for a SweetEasy wine tour of the beautiful Basque Txakoli wine region. Txakoli (Chacolí in Spanish, pronounced: chak-ko-lee) is most commonly produced as a light, fruity and acid-driven, slightly sparkling dry white wine. This wine is produced in white, rose, sparkling, and late harvest styles. It has been described by some as a unique zippy wine. I am inclined to agree. 

Txakoli Vineyard, Basque Country © Spaswinefood

Txakoli Wines of Basque Country 

Basque Country's wine region is at the border between Spain and France. Txakoli wine making dates back hundreds of years, and has a long tradition of being produced from the indigenous grape varieties: Hondarrabi Zuri, Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia, and Izkiriota. There are three Txakoli appellations, one in each of the three Basque provinces. 

1. Txakoli Getaria (or Getariako Txakolina) was the first to gain recognition as a DO in 1989. Txakoli Getaria is a coastal region between Getaria and San Sebastian, and is the largest of the three. Getariako Txakolina, a wine-growing area around the Getaria and Zarautz in the province of Gipuzkoa
2. Txakoli Bizkaia (Bizkailo Txakolina) DO was established in 1994. It is located further north-west, also on the coast, and the wines here are typically more minerally and slightly more acidic. 
3. The third and smallest sub-region, Txakoli Álava (Arabako Txakolina), the youngest DO was founded in 2001,  is located inland, south of Bilbao in the Ayala Valley, approaching the Rioja Alavesa sub-region. 

During my recent spring travels I was introduced to Txakoli wines.

Budding Txakoli Vines, May 2023 © Spaswinefood

Given I had heard so much about the Basque region I looked forward to exploring Txakoli Wine Country.

 

Celebrating Wine and Food 

I had come to a place that celebrates food and wine. Shortly after arriving in San Sebastián it was off to El Bistro Ondarreta for dinner.

Welcome to San Sebastián, El Bistro Ondarreta © Spaswinefood

Our dinner that evening was a celebration of wine and food.

Dinner, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

We enjoyed a most delicious dinner at El Bistro Ondarreta. I was delighted to taste the Spanish wines that Sinisa had brought.

Dinner Wines © Spaswinefood

Getting to Know Txakoli and More

Next morning, we were off to taste our first Txakoli (Cha-ko-lee) wines. Our Bodega stops included Txomin Etxaniz, and Talai Berri. In both cases we were met by female winemakers. 

Txomin Etxaniz

Txomin Etxaniz Winemaker © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Txomin Etxaniz © Spaswinefood

We soon discovered many details about growing Txakoli. For example, the most common trellis system used to grow Txakoli vines, etc.

Trellis System for Txakoli Vines, Txomin Etxaniz © Spaswinefood

After being introduced to Txomin Etxaniz vineyards, and getting an overview of the property's history we went inside to escape from the rain.

Once inside we tasted a variety of wines (white, rose, sparkling, late harvest). I would learn that Txakoli is most commonly, a lightly sparkling dry white wine that is traditionally poured into a glass from 8 to 10 inches in the air. This action agitates the wine, enhancing Txakoli’s youthful effervescence. 

Txomin Etxaniz, Txakoli Wines © Spaswinefood

Txomin Etxaniz, Txakoli Wines © Spaswinefood

As we left I captured a few more photos of the stunning vineyard landscape at Txomin Etxaniz.

Vineyard Txomin Etxaniz © Spaswinefood

Talai Berri

By the time we arrived at Talai Berri, our next bodega stop the rains were quite heavy. We headed inside.

Arriving at Talai Berri © Spaswinefood

Talai Berri Txakolina Winery, on the slopes of Mount Talai Mendi in the Zarautz Region, is surrounded by imposing landscapes from all directions. While their 12 hectares of family vineyards dates back 100 years, Talai Berri winery was established in 1992. In addition to the production authentic wines at Talai Berri Txakolina they also produce top rated vinegar.

During our visit I took advantage of the windows to view their vineyard landscape.

Window onto Talai Berri Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Here we met the winemaker who introduced us to her family's winery.

Welcome to Talai Berri © Spaswinefood

After an overview of the history of her family's winery we tasted Talai Berri wines.

We concluded the day with lunch in town, followed by a walking tour of historical San Sebastián. 

Rainy Spring Day, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

By the time we returned to San Sebastián gray clouds filled the sky.

Low Tide, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

The waterfront scene was captivating even on a gray, rainy day. We managed to arrive back in town at low tide.

Waiting for the Tide, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Soon we were off to lunch.

Urepel Jatetxea, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Escaping inside for lunch was a perfect escape.

Time for Lunch, Urepel Jatetxea © Spaswinefood

Dining in San Sebastián, home to so many Michelin starred restaurants, is foodie heaven.

Next day we continued our Txakoli tastings at Aldako and Hiruzka Bodegas, followed by a visit to Hondarribia. Of course there was a food and wine pairing, lunch and more.

 Aldako Bodega

Vineyard at Aldako Bodega © Spaswinefood

Our first stop was Aldako Bodega, a small family winery.

Welcome to Aldako Bodega © Spaswinefood

After being introduced to the vineyard, and hearing about the winery's history we went inside for a wine tasting.

Wine Tasting, Aldako Bodega © Spaswinefood

We would later taste some tank samples.

Tasting Tank Samples, Aldako Bodega © Spaswinefood

We were delighted to taste Aldako Bodega wines. This family winery showcases well the rich wine making tradition of small wineries.

Hiruzka Bodega

Our last winery stop was at Hiruzka Bodega. Hiruzta Bodega was established in 2012 by the Rekalde Family (a father and his two sons). Its name comes from a loose translation of a three-person harvest, and the owners passion for this project. Hiruzta Bodega wines have won multiple international awards.

Welcome to Hiruzka Bodega © Spaswinefood

Here we did a wine and food pairing.

Hiruzka Bodega © Spaswinefood

Hiruzka Bodega © Spaswinefood

I would highly recommend a wine and food pairing at Hiruzka Bodega.

Of course there was food, a food and wine pairings, and more during #spaswinefood travels in Basque Country. Yes, we even managed to do lunch in Hondarribia (Fuenterrabía in Spanish), a colorful fishing village that is both rich in architecture and gastronomy. 

Harbor at Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Hondarribia is quite close to the border of France. In fact it is just across the harbor in the above photo.

While in Hondarribia, there was opportunity for another gastronomic exploration.

Lunch, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

In recent years, it has seen a boom in its culinary scene. Young chefs who, after studying under the likes of Martín Berasategui and Pedro Subijana, have set up shop in Hondarribia. The quality of the new gastronomy scene is right up there with San Sebastian.

After lunch we toured on our own Hondarribia. It's architecture is very captivating to explore. 

Exploring Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Stunning Architecture, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

I would highly recommend a visit to Hondarribia to checkout its gastronomy and its architecture. 

Given that it rained during my visit I am so glad that when I arrived in Basque Country it was a sunny day. I managed to take a few photos of the Cantabrian Sea along the flight path to the airport.

Arriving in Basque Country © Spaswinefood

Approach to San Sebastián Airport © Spaswinefood

For sure exploring Txakoli wines of Basque Country is an absolute must. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my recent vine-filled explorations in Spain. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

May 2023

San Sabastian, Spain 

© Spaswinefood

Basque Country Travels with WineMine Friends © Spaswinefood

#spaswinefood travels in Txakoli wine country  

Portugal's Bairrada celebrates International Baga Day

Spring time in Portugal’s Bairrada wine region is a perfect time for celebration. I had come to Portugal to celebrate with #winelover friends International Baga Day on May 6, 2023. Baga deserves celebration because it is one of the most versatile Portuguese black grape varieties. Its great versatility lends to it being used to create white, rosé and red sparkling wines, light and fruity red wines, and also powerful and age-worthy red wines. It is typically characterized by black fruit, olives, dried herbs aromas, and other flavors, with high levels of acidity and tannins. Moreover, all the above mentioned styles of this wine thrive in Bairrada.

Celebrating International Baga Day, Bairrada © Spaswinefood

Celebrating International Baga Day with Wines of Course © Spaswinefood

The Bairrada wine region, is in the center of Portugal, located in the Beira Litoral, between Aveiro and Coimbra. It is a relatively flat region, which stretches inwards from the coastline. It has an Atlantic climate, with mild and rainy winters, and summers cooled by the winds off the Atlantic. While Baga’s origin is most likely the Dão region, the Bairrada, with its well-drained, chalky-clay soils, is where Baga has gained popularity.

#Winelovers Celebrate International Baga Day 2023

I was excited to come to Portugal to be part of #Winelover's participation in International Baga Day 2023. This year it was held on May 6, 2023. Throughout the Bairrada region wineries held events to celebrate International Baga Day. Our group visited three wineries, and attended an evening celebration.

Quinta Da Vacariça 

International Baga Day 2023, Quinta Da Vacariça © Spaswinefood

 Our first winery stop, Quinta Da Vacariça, is a small property owned by Frenchman François Chasans. Here we toured the winery and did a wine tasting. Quinta Da Vacariça is in process of a biodynamic conversion and Ecocert certification.

 Quinta Da Vacariça © Spaswinefood

After a tour, we gathered around a table to taste the wines.

François Chasans, Introducing Quinta Da Vacariça Wines  © Spaswinefood

We were treated to an amazing lineup of wines.

Wines Tasted on International Baga Day at Quinta Da Vacariça © Spaswinefood

It is important to note that Quinta Da Vacariça only designates garrafeira to its best wines of Baga grape from exceptional harvests. I totally appreciated being introduced to these exceptional, and age worthy wines.

Quinta das Bágeiras

Quinta das Bágeiras, our second stop, we tasted wines and ate lunch. Before the wine tasting I managed to take a peek inside Quinta das Bágeiras winery. Mário Sérgio, third generation family, who is following in the footsteps of his father and grandparents, defines the family's relationship to wine making by noting:

. . . we respect wine as it respects us and we always devote ourselves to it as a family, with a passion that has lasted for three generations.

Quinta das Bágeiras © Spaswinefood

Vadio Wines across the street from Quinta das Bágeiras, is where we explored both Quinta das Bágeiras, and Vadio wines, over lunch.

International Baga Day, Vadio Wines  © Spaswinefood

Lunch, International Baga Day © Spaswinefood

Now, here are just a few of the wines we tasted over lunch.

Quinta das Bágeiras, Vinho Branco, Bairrada DOC 2021 

Quinta das Bágeiras, Vinho Branco, Bairrada DOC 2021 © Spaswinefood

Vadio Wines, Brut, Bairrada DOC 2020

Vadio Wines, Brut, Bairrada DOC 2020 © Spaswinefood

Of course there was lots for #winelovers to celebrate on International Baga Day.

Celebrating International Baga Day © Spaswinefood

Luís Pato

Our final stop was the winery of Luís Pato, who is regarded as an icon in the Portuguese winemaking world. The Pato family Quinta do Ribeirinho has existed since the eighteen century. When João Pato started to produce wine in 1970, he became the first winegrower in Bairrada region. His son, Luís, who inherited a nonconformist and pioneer spirit, produced his first Baga wine in 1980. He would go onto reinventing the region and its grape varieties. His wines are now exported to more than 50 countries, making the wine lists at top wine bars, and Michelin starred restaurants. In recent years he has been joined by his three daughters.

 Luís Pato © Spaswinefood

Our visit was filled with wonderful wine conversations centered on the wines Luís Pato shared with us.

Tasting Luís Pato Wines © Spaswinefood

For sure spending time with Luís Pato was extra special. Needless to say his wines are first class!

We ended International Baga Day 2023 over dinner hosted by all seven producers at Rei dos Leitões. Here we tasted wines while sampling small bites of local foods.

International Baga Day © Spaswinefood

Bairrada Friends Thank You

If you have yet to discover Bairrada then you should. It is a wine region with a long tradition of wine making. Wine production here dates back to the 10th century however, transition to  quality winemaking began in the 19th century, with the creation of sparkling wine in the 1890’s. It was one of the first Portuguese regions to make sparkling wine. Today Bairrada is considered the most important region for the production of sparkling wine. The climate and its clay-limestone and sandy soils are ideal the growing of grapes with high acidity and low alcohol, which is perfect for the production of sparkling wines. As I have already noted, the region's predominant grape, Baga, does well here. While the wines made from this versatile grape variety are acidic and full of color, they are well-balanced and have longevity. The region also produces white and red wines made from traditional and international grape varieties. Bairrada wines pair well with the gastronomic specialties of this region, such as the suckling pig, the fresh fish dishes and seafood, as well as the finest conventual sweets.

Visitors will find the Bairrada wine region offers many charming areas to explore. After I arrived in Lisbon it was off to Luso to meetup with #winelover friends. While in the Bairrada with our #winelover group I stayed at the Grande Hotel de Luso. Luso is a spa town. Later, I would visit Aveiro and Coimbra areas, giving me a better appreciation for the overall.

View from Grande Hotel de Luso © Spaswinefood

This was my first introduction to the Bairrada wine region. I was beyond delighted to meet Bairrada's wine producers, and to discover Baga and other wines from this region. Special thanks to Karin Luize de Carvalho and Ana Sofia de Oliveira who organized an outstanding #winelover program. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Portugal and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my May and June vine-filled explorations in Portugal. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

May 2023

Luso, Portugal 

© Spaswinefood

International Baga Day #spaswinefood travels in Portugal Lisbon to Luso for #winelover