Txakoli wines of Basque Country

When your wine travels take you to San Sebastián then you know you are in for a special treat. Basque Country, in Northeast Spain, is not only has its own culture and language, but also its rich wine making tradition. Moreover, Basque Country (known locally País Vasco, or Euskadi) is renowned for its innovative gastronomy and striking landscapes. Last May I joined WineMine friends from Portugal for a SweetEasy wine tour of the beautiful Basque Txakoli wine region. Txakoli (Chacolí in Spanish, pronounced: chak-ko-lee) is most commonly produced as a light, fruity and acid-driven, slightly sparkling dry white wine. This wine is produced in white, rose, sparkling, and late harvest styles. It has been described by some as a unique zippy wine. I am inclined to agree. 

Txakoli Vineyard, Basque Country © Spaswinefood

Txakoli Wines of Basque Country 

Basque Country's wine region is at the border between Spain and France. Txakoli wine making dates back hundreds of years, and has a long tradition of being produced from the indigenous grape varieties: Hondarrabi Zuri, Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia, and Izkiriota. There are three Txakoli appellations, one in each of the three Basque provinces. 

1. Txakoli Getaria (or Getariako Txakolina) was the first to gain recognition as a DO in 1989. Txakoli Getaria is a coastal region between Getaria and San Sebastian, and is the largest of the three. Getariako Txakolina, a wine-growing area around the Getaria and Zarautz in the province of Gipuzkoa
2. Txakoli Bizkaia (Bizkailo Txakolina) DO was established in 1994. It is located further north-west, also on the coast, and the wines here are typically more minerally and slightly more acidic. 
3. The third and smallest sub-region, Txakoli Álava (Arabako Txakolina), the youngest DO was founded in 2001,  is located inland, south of Bilbao in the Ayala Valley, approaching the Rioja Alavesa sub-region. 

During my recent spring travels I was introduced to Txakoli wines.

Budding Txakoli Vines, May 2023 © Spaswinefood

Given I had heard so much about the Basque region I looked forward to exploring Txakoli Wine Country.

 

Celebrating Wine and Food 

I had come to a place that celebrates food and wine. Shortly after arriving in San Sebastián it was off to El Bistro Ondarreta for dinner.

Welcome to San Sebastián, El Bistro Ondarreta © Spaswinefood

Our dinner that evening was a celebration of wine and food.

Dinner, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

We enjoyed a most delicious dinner at El Bistro Ondarreta. I was delighted to taste the Spanish wines that Sinisa had brought.

Dinner Wines © Spaswinefood

Getting to Know Txakoli and More

Next morning, we were off to taste our first Txakoli (Cha-ko-lee) wines. Our Bodega stops included Txomin Etxaniz, and Talai Berri. In both cases we were met by female winemakers. 

Txomin Etxaniz

Txomin Etxaniz Winemaker © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Txomin Etxaniz © Spaswinefood

We soon discovered many details about growing Txakoli. For example, the most common trellis system used to grow Txakoli vines, etc.

Trellis System for Txakoli Vines, Txomin Etxaniz © Spaswinefood

After being introduced to Txomin Etxaniz vineyards, and getting an overview of the property's history we went inside to escape from the rain.

Once inside we tasted a variety of wines (white, rose, sparkling, late harvest). I would learn that Txakoli is most commonly, a lightly sparkling dry white wine that is traditionally poured into a glass from 8 to 10 inches in the air. This action agitates the wine, enhancing Txakoli’s youthful effervescence. 

Txomin Etxaniz, Txakoli Wines © Spaswinefood

Txomin Etxaniz, Txakoli Wines © Spaswinefood

As we left I captured a few more photos of the stunning vineyard landscape at Txomin Etxaniz.

Vineyard Txomin Etxaniz © Spaswinefood

Talai Berri

By the time we arrived at Talai Berri, our next bodega stop the rains were quite heavy. We headed inside.

Arriving at Talai Berri © Spaswinefood

Talai Berri Txakolina Winery, on the slopes of Mount Talai Mendi in the Zarautz Region, is surrounded by imposing landscapes from all directions. While their 12 hectares of family vineyards dates back 100 years, Talai Berri winery was established in 1992. In addition to the production authentic wines at Talai Berri Txakolina they also produce top rated vinegar.

During our visit I took advantage of the windows to view their vineyard landscape.

Window onto Talai Berri Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Here we met the winemaker who introduced us to her family's winery.

Welcome to Talai Berri © Spaswinefood

After an overview of the history of her family's winery we tasted Talai Berri wines.

We concluded the day with lunch in town, followed by a walking tour of historical San Sebastián. 

Rainy Spring Day, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

By the time we returned to San Sebastián gray clouds filled the sky.

Low Tide, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

The waterfront scene was captivating even on a gray, rainy day. We managed to arrive back in town at low tide.

Waiting for the Tide, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Soon we were off to lunch.

Urepel Jatetxea, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Escaping inside for lunch was a perfect escape.

Time for Lunch, Urepel Jatetxea © Spaswinefood

Dining in San Sebastián, home to so many Michelin starred restaurants, is foodie heaven.

Next day we continued our Txakoli tastings at Aldako and Hiruzka Bodegas, followed by a visit to Hondarribia. Of course there was a food and wine pairing, lunch and more.

 Aldako Bodega

Vineyard at Aldako Bodega © Spaswinefood

Our first stop was Aldako Bodega, a small family winery.

Welcome to Aldako Bodega © Spaswinefood

After being introduced to the vineyard, and hearing about the winery's history we went inside for a wine tasting.

Wine Tasting, Aldako Bodega © Spaswinefood

We would later taste some tank samples.

Tasting Tank Samples, Aldako Bodega © Spaswinefood

We were delighted to taste Aldako Bodega wines. This family winery showcases well the rich wine making tradition of small wineries.

Hiruzka Bodega

Our last winery stop was at Hiruzka Bodega. Hiruzta Bodega was established in 2012 by the Rekalde Family (a father and his two sons). Its name comes from a loose translation of a three-person harvest, and the owners passion for this project. Hiruzta Bodega wines have won multiple international awards.

Welcome to Hiruzka Bodega © Spaswinefood

Here we did a wine and food pairing.

Hiruzka Bodega © Spaswinefood

Hiruzka Bodega © Spaswinefood

I would highly recommend a wine and food pairing at Hiruzka Bodega.

Of course there was food, a food and wine pairings, and more during #spaswinefood travels in Basque Country. Yes, we even managed to do lunch in Hondarribia (Fuenterrabía in Spanish), a colorful fishing village that is both rich in architecture and gastronomy. 

Harbor at Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Hondarribia is quite close to the border of France. In fact it is just across the harbor in the above photo.

While in Hondarribia, there was opportunity for another gastronomic exploration.

Lunch, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

In recent years, it has seen a boom in its culinary scene. Young chefs who, after studying under the likes of Martín Berasategui and Pedro Subijana, have set up shop in Hondarribia. The quality of the new gastronomy scene is right up there with San Sebastian.

After lunch we toured on our own Hondarribia. It's architecture is very captivating to explore. 

Exploring Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Stunning Architecture, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

I would highly recommend a visit to Hondarribia to checkout its gastronomy and its architecture. 

Given that it rained during my visit I am so glad that when I arrived in Basque Country it was a sunny day. I managed to take a few photos of the Cantabrian Sea along the flight path to the airport.

Arriving in Basque Country © Spaswinefood

Approach to San Sebastián Airport © Spaswinefood

For sure exploring Txakoli wines of Basque Country is an absolute must. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my recent vine-filled explorations in Spain. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

May 2023

San Sabastian, Spain 

© Spaswinefood

Basque Country Travels with WineMine Friends © Spaswinefood

#spaswinefood travels in Txakoli wine country