Saturday, March 11, 2023

Wine stories: Today's Greek wine goddesses

Here's to the wine goddesses of Greece! Women's leadership in the wine world far too often goes unnoticed.Returning to Greece meant it was another time for me to celebrate the women who are making history in wine (wine producers, winemakers, sommeliers, restaurateurs, journalists and industry experts). The following are some of the women in the Greek wine community:  Evangeli Tseliou (Cinque Wine Bars), Alexandra Anthidou (Events Coordinator, Media, PR at Οινοποιοί Βορείου Ελλάδος - Winemakers of North Greece)Anne Kokotos (Kokotos Estate)Melina Tassou (Domaine Kikones)Eleni Kefalopoulou (Wine by Eleni), Aggeliki Mpimpa (Barafakas Winery), Anna Aga, Georgia Foundi (Domaine Foundi)Popi Golfi, (Kechris)Eleni Kechris (Stelios Kechris Domaine), Kiki Hatzisavva (Xwines), and Maro Goutsidis (Goutsidis Winery). For sure this is not a complete list by any means, only my attempt to acknowledge some of the Wine Goddesses of Greece I have met.

Evangeli Tseliou, Cinque Wine Bar

Evangeli Tseliou (Cinque Wine Bars) © Spaswinefood

The first person that comes to mind when I think of Greek Wine is Evangeli Tseliou. I first met Evangeli at Cinque on Valentine's Day, February 14, 2016. Little did I know that a #winelover gathering in Athens in 2016 would connect me with a Facebook friend who owned a wine bar in Central Athens. What I encountered on that initial outing was not only great wines and food, but also amazing hospitality. Evangelie and Greg, the owners of Cinque, are both knowledgeable and passionate about Greek wines. They know how to make their patrons feel at home.


Assyrtiko Conversations with Evangelie © Spaswinefood


Evangelie is the most amazing host and #winelover. Her husband Greg, a professional sommelier brings a #winelover passion to wine. Nikkas, their son who has great wine credentials, has joined them in recent years. 


Evangeli & Greg © Spaswinefood


Chances are if you drop by Cinque there just might be other #winelover friends (like Lily, Robyn and Tim, May 2017). Cinque is not only the place for #winelovers from around the world to drop by but, also you are likely to encounter other Greek women of the vine. In this case Lily Dimitriou (bottom left) who has been Head of Corporate Affairs and Communications at WSPC (Place to study wine, spirits, coffee and beverages), and Communications Director, Tsantali. 


CHEERS!! Cinque Wine Bar, Athens © Spaswinefood

It is a similar story for Anna Aga who I first met in 2016. Since Anna's graduation from TEI of Athens Oenology and Wine Making she has worked as winemaker in Greek wineries and abroad (Domaine G. Kokotos, Société Rémy Panier, Antonopoulos Vineyards, Domaine Theotokis, Domaine Evharis, Oenotria Land C. Lazaridis,  and Domaine Zacharioudakis). Anna was winemaker at Kokotos Estate, a boutique winery in Stamata, East Attica, near Athens. She has also held other positions in the Greek wine world.


Anna pouring Kokotos Estate Wines for #Winelovers 2016 © Spaswinefood

I am always happy for the opportunity to learn more about Greek wines, and meet up with folks at Cinque.


Lunch at Oinopoleion, October 2017 © Spaswinefood


Even after Evangelie facilitates a great lunch at one of Athens authentic tavernas one can not resist going to Cinque Wine Bar. Evangelie is not only an advocate for Cinque but also is one of the best ambassadors for Greek Wines. I remember well my introduction to many special Greek wines there, with the most recent being Mouchtaro (from Thivaiki Gi) in May 2022.

 Mouhtaro, Cinque Wine Bars, Athens © Spaswinefood


Picnic Lunch, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard, June 2022 © Spaswinefood

We all have the fondest memories of Evangelie during our 10th #Winelover Anniversary Celebrations, June 2022 in Greece. 


Evangeli Tseliou, 10th #Winelover Anniversary © Spaswinefood

Whether Evangelie is at home in Greece, or attending wine events elsewhere in Europe she is always engaged in showcasing Greek Wines to the world. When in Athens a visit to Cinque is a must.


Anne Kokotos, Kokotos Estate


Kokotos is truly beautiful estate, which I was delighted to visit last June given I had tasted their wines on prior occasions. This wine estate is located on the northern slopes of Mount Pendeli, where in ancient times the god of wine Dionysus was worshipped. Upon arrival we were greeted by Anne Kokotos who along with her husband, George founded their winery in 1980.  

Anne Kokotos Meeting #Winelovers, Kokotos Estate © Spaswinefood

After exchanging greetings we were off with Anne exploring the vineyards and checking out the wine cellar.

#Winelovers Explore Kokotos Estate © Spaswinefood

The estate’s seven hectares, are spread over a hilltop on the north eastern slopes of Mt Pendeli. From the hilltop there are views of the Attic basin, and on a clear day you can see as far as the island of Evia. Their organically farmed estate vineyard grows international varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer, and two Greek varieties: Assyrtiko and Savatiano. Kokotos also produces wines from two other Greek grape varieties: Roditis and Agiorgitiko that they buy from selected grape growers. 


By the time we arrived back at the tasting room it was clear to me that Anne Kokotos brings both passion and expertise to wine production at their family winery. Clearly, the walls at the entrance to the tasting room highlighted awards for their wines however, there was one plaque that caught my attention. It was the recognition of Anne Kokotos as being the best sommelier in Europe in 2002.


Aggeliki Mpimpa, Barafakas Winery


Barafakas Winery is located in the Nemea PDO (Protected Designation of Origin). The family’s vineyard (200-815 meters) has been active since the 1920's, with Christos Barafakas establishing a winery in 2002. During our visit we were hosted by Christos Barafakas, owner and Aggeliki Mpimpa, winemaker.


Wine Tasting, Barafakas Winery © Spaswinefood

After a winery tour we did a wine tasting. Following the tasting Christos Barafakas shared with us some plans for future development of their wine estate. It was such a pleasure to learn about Barafakas Wines


Tasting Lineup of Barafakas Wines © Spaswinefood


Barafakas Estate is in Nemea, in the northeastern corner of the Peloponnese Peninsula. Nemea is a highly regarded  sub-region of the Peloponnese wine region. Peloponnese has the largest vineyard area in Greece, representing around 31% of wine production. The region is home to 24 PGIs and 10 PDOs, with eight main subregions: Argolis, Arcadia, Achaia, Ilia, Corinthia, Laconia, Messinia, and Kefalonia. The subregions of Corinthia and Argolis are known as the Nemea PDO. Nemea PDO is well known for its Agiorgitiko and Moscofilero wines

Thanks Barafakas Winery © Spaswinefood

#Winelovers, Arriving at Barafakas Winery 2022 © Spaswinefood

Alexandra Anthidou, Events Coordinator, Media, PR at Οινοποιοί Βορείου Ελλάδος - Winemakers of North Greece

I first met Alexandra Anthidou in 2015 when she took us on a 5 day trip on the Wine Roads of North Greece. Ever since then I have know her as an advocate for Wines of North Greece.

Alexandra Anthidou, Thessaloniki © Spaswinefood

When my friend Carol and I returned to Greece last June we had amazing time in North Greece. We met up with Alexandra at blind wine tasting in Thessaloniki.

Alexandra Welcoming Us, Wines of North Greece Event © Spaswinefood

We had an amazing time at the tasting and exploring Thessaloniki.

Mary Poppins Moments with Alexandra, Thessaloniki  © Spaswinefood


Later in Athens, the first of day of our #Winelover Anniversary Celebrations ended with dinner on the rooftop at Manouka Restaurant. While the clouds blocked out the sunset that evening the ever changing views of the Acropolis were stunning. 


Acropolis at Night Fall, Greece © Spaswinefood


While dining we were treated to delicious wines from Northern Greece. Northern Greece is a top travel destination for wine enthusiasts. Travelers along the Wine Roads of North Greece will soon discover great wines and food, and amazing hospitality. Northern Greece, the homeland of Alexander the Great, has been making wine since the dawn of civilization.  The wines that evening took us on a wine safari along Northern Greece's wine roads.

Manouka Restaurant, Athens, Greece © Spaswinefood


All winelovers had great views that evening.

Our Table at Manouka Restaurant © Spaswinefood


For sure it was the perfect ending to a vine-filled day.

Acropolis from the Roof Top of Manouka Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Later in the week at a BYOB at Cinque Alexandra shared more wines.


Sharing Wines from North Greece © Spaswinefood

Xinomavro's from Alpha Estate & Ki-Yianni © Spaswinefood

Those who have yet discover 
North Greece wines now is the time. 

 Acknowledging Alexandra's Contribution to 10th Anniversary © Spaswinefood 

Eleni Kefalopoulou, Wine with Eleni

I first met Eleni at the #winelover gathering in 2016 in Greece. At that time I learnt about a book that she was writing on the history of wine making in the Holy Mountain. Her book Monks, Wine and the Holy Mountain has since been published. She has gone onto opening her own wine bar in Athens. Over the years I have met her other wine events, such 2017 Balkans International Wine Competition in Bulgaria.

Eleni Exchanging Greetings with Razvan at BIWC 2017 © Spaswinefood

During our last #winelover gathering at Cinque Eleni shared a special bottle of Greek Wine.
 Eleni, BYOB at Winelover Celebrations, June 2022 © Spaswinefood

That evening Eleni brought a most delightful Magnum of Greek wine to share.

Eleni, Winelover Celebrations, Cinque © Spaswinefood

Eleni from all reports has established a most wonderful wine bar in Athens.

Georgia Foundi, Domaine Foundi 

My June 2022 wine travels in North Greece took me to Domaine Foundi, located 4 km outside of Naoussa. This small family winery that has been producing wine since 1992. Their focus is on producing quality Xinomavro wines. My Greek friends know that I am a big fan of Xinomavro since I was first introduced to this wine in 2015; hence when Alexandra recommend this Naoussa winery I had to visit.

Tasting Xinomavro at Domaine Foundi © Spaswinefood

I was happy to sit down with Georgia Foundi and taste Domaine Foundi wines.  I loved their Xinomavro's. All the wines I tasted were 100% Xinomavro.


Domaine Foundi Xinomavro Wines © Spaswinefood

Georgia Foundi is representative of the women who work hard to support smaller boutique wineries.


North Greece, 2015

Eleni Kechris, Stelios Kechris Domaine

So it seems many have heard about Retsina however, they need to taste modern style Retsina. My first exposure to modern style Retsina wines was at Stelios Kechris Domaine in Kalahari, Thessaloniki.



Stelios Kechris, 2015 © Spaswinefood


Retsina, the resinated wine of the Greek gods is produced locally throughout Greece, with the main production areas being Attica, Boeotia and Euboea. Retsina, with over 2,000 year history, has Traditional Appellation status, which is protected by the European Union. Savatiano is typically the main grape used in the making of Retsina. It is commonly blended with Assyrtiko and Rhoditis, or other local grape varieties. Retsina can be a resinated white, or rosé wine. The same techniques are used for making white and rosé Retsina wines, with Aleppo Pine resin added during fermentation. Later while racking the wine is clarified by removing the solids and film created by the resin. 



Stelios Kechris Domaine Wines © Spaswinefood


We soon discovered that we had come to taste its awarding winning Retsina.  Before doing a wine tasting, we toured the winery. We also learned a little about the winery's 100 year old history. Today the winery is run by Stelios Kechris and his three daughters (the family's fourth generation). Both Mr. Kechris and one of his daughter's, Eleni, both are enologists, and are part of the wine production team.


Popi Golfi, Kechris 

Popi Golfi, who I remember meeting Popi Golfi at Domaine Porto Carras in 2015, is now at Kechris.


Domaine Porto Carras Vineyard, 2015 © Spaswinefood


When we visited Domaine Porto Carras vineyards and winery I discovered that the 4,500 acre Porto Carras Grand Resort has two hotels, spas and casino; plus it includes five miles of pristine Aegean shoreline. Eyfrossyni Drossou, whom I have yet to met is now winemaker at Porto Carras.


So many great discoveries from that 2015 trip.


Chateau Porto Carras 1993 © Spaswinefood

Thrace
I was pleasantly surprised by the number of female winemakers that I met on a #winelover trip to Thrace, in 2017. Ancient Thrace has both historical and geographical significance in the wine world. Thrace is an area located in southeast Europe centered on the borders of Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey. The part of Thrace, located in Greece, is known as Western Thrace. This area is bordered by Bulgaria to the north (Northern Thrace), Turkey to the east (Eastern Thrace), Aegean Sea to the south, and the Greek region of Macedonia, to the west. 

Melina Tassou, Domaine Kikones 
We arrived at Domaine Kikones Winery, Komotini we were met by Melina Tassou, an agricultural engineer and a Bordeaux educated winemaker. After her studies she gained further knowledge and experience in Australia and France (Bordeaux, Burgundy), before returning to Thrace to establish her own winery, Kikones. The importance of wine in ancient Thrace has been well established. However, since 2000 there has been a rebirth of wine making in this region, with the establishment of modern wineries, like Kikones. When the winery opened in 2004 it was the first winery in Rodopi, one of the regional units of Greece, which is a part of Thrace. Our #winelover visit to Domaine Kikones included a winery tour and a wine tasting. During the tour we were explained how the winery went about its construction to achieve its goals.

Tank Room, Kikones © Spaswinefood

Kikones organically farming vineyard includes international and Greek grape varieties. The varieties planted are: Malagouzia, Limnio, Chardonnay, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and SangioveseIt is important to note that Tassou views wine as a natural product. The overall approach at Kikones is based on the technical knowledge of Bordeaux, the vinification procedure of Burgundy, and the viticulture techniques of Australia. For each harvest great care goes into all stages of the wine making process. For instance the grapes are selected with great care, and are hand picked. Before the vinification the grapes are then checked on the sorting table, by a team of 10-15 women. They remove any leaves or unwanted berries. During the vinification the winemaker uses minimum technological interference in order to preserve the true character of each vintage. 

Kikones Wine Lineup for Tasting  © Spaswinefood

What a fantastic lineup of wines

Kiki Hatzisavva (Xwines), and Maro Goutsidis (Goutsidis Winery)
Our last day in Thrace included a visit to the Dadia National Forest. Later we ate lunch with two local female winemakers. 
#Winelovers, Dadia Forest Inn © Spaswinefood

Our host, George introduced us to Kiki Hatzisavva from Xwines, and Maro Goutsidis from Goutsidis Winery. Wine making in this area of Greece dates back to the ancient Thracians. After a decline in wine making in the region, there has been experiencing a rebirth since 2000. Today, part of this rebirth is being led by female winemakers.

The winemakers lunch featured local produce prepared by Vaggelis Kilos. Without a doubt our #Winelover in Thrace Wine and Gastronomy Adventure was filled with fantastic delights. Whenever #winelovers gather there is always good conversations over food and wine. 

#Winelover Wine Tasting, Dadia Forest Inn © Spaswinefood
#Winelover Wine Tasting © Spaswinefood

Maro Goutsidis, Goutsidis Winery

George introduced Maro Goutsidis from Goutsidis Winery, Dakaia, Evros region. Maro shared some insights into her winery. Goutsidis Winery was founded in 1997, is located near the Evros River. It is described as a place of beauty. Their own estate vineyards of 75 acres is organically farmed. They focus on cultivating the most important indigenous and international grape varieties. Great care was taken in selecting the location for each grape variety. The complete wine making process, from the vineyard to the bottle, is biological, with certification done by the TUV AUSTRIA HELLAS. 

Goutsidis Wines © Spaswinefood

It was insightful to hear about Maro's approach to winemaking, and to learn about her wines. It was a delight for me to taste wines from Goutsidis Winery

Kiki Hatzisavva, Xwines

Kiki Hatzisavva, oenologist from Xwines introduced three of her wines from their Hatzisavva Vineyards. She talked about her decision to leave microbiology and become a winemaker. Similarly to Maro, Kiki also talked about the importance of taking a nurturing approach to winemaking.
Kiki Hatzisavva, Xwines © Spaswinefood
Xwines © Spaswinefood 

I am especially thankful to women in the Greek wine community for their inspirations. I just know there would be a Greek wine goddess calling me to taste Greek wines, or visit a vineyard soon. Goddess Athena at the Parthenon would approve of the work of today's wine goddesses.

Parthenon, Acropolis © Spaswinefood

The above post is my humble attempt to acknowledge some of the wine goddesses of Greece. I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 


Yamas!


Sharon
June 2022
Athens, Greece
© Spaswinefood

Spaswinefood, Greece © Spaswinefood

Thank You Cinque © Spaswinefood

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