When my wine travels last spring took me to Santorini where we visited Gavalas, a boutique family winery in Megalochori. Gavalas, is one of the oldest wineries in continuous production on the island. The Gavalas family, has been engaged in winemaking with indigenous Santorini varieties, since the end of the 19th century. George Gavalas, fourth-generation winemaker and owner of Gavalas Winery, has been joined by his son, Vagelis who is leading the winery into the fifth generation. For travelers on Santorini Wine Roads Gavalas is a must.
Gavalas Winery, Santorini, Greece © Spaswinefood
Santorini is home to around 40 indigenous varieties that have persisted because the island was never affected by Phylloxera. Currently 75% of Santorini’s vineyards are planted with its highly prized Assyrtiko (A seer' tec ko). Some of the root stock is assumed to be 400-500 years old, possibly making them the world’s oldest vines. Crisp, fresh, full bodied white wines, mineral and fruity red wines, and the distinguished dessert wine Vinsanto make up a diversity of wines that come from the island's volcanic terroir. Given Santorini's unique viticultural this was why I had come to Santorini.
During our winery visit I tasted four different styles of Assyrtiko, and three other indigenous varieties -Aidani, Voudomato, and Mavrotragano.
This rosé is made with Voudomato, one of the few red varieties of Santorini. It covers about 1% of the island's total vineyards.
This was the first time I tasted the very unique Mavrotragano. Below is a description of this grape by Wines of Greece:
Until recently, this red grape variety with its black (“mavro) and crisp (“tragano”) berries—hence, the name Mavrotragano—was merely blended in the Santorini sweet wines and had become all but extinct. Today, it is one of the highly-touted varieties employed in producing reds. With its future appearing more auspicious than ever, Mavrotragano combines the exotic with the singular in an outstanding, all-inclusive package!
Showcasing it, however, was no mean feat for Santorini wine growers who were forced to search the island’s volcanic soil vine by vine before being able to identify and then multiply the handful of old Mavrotragano vines left. At the winery, winemakers were then faced with the onerous task of bringing to the surface the variety’s exquisite aromas, evocative of premium, flower-bursting Latin American coffee, smoke, and sweet red fruit. Lastly, wine growers had to work toward taming the variety’s robust tannins which complemented the rich, mineral-heavy mouth of the rare, unusual wines Santorini’s Mavrotragano yields.
It is certain that their efforts have not been in vain. Despite the fact that Mavrotragano has revealed but a small part of its potential (it has been planted frugally outside the terroir of Santorini), it shows promise of being as unique as the land that has given it birth: an outstanding variety with the potential of offering one-of-a-kind experiences capable of overturning the habitual wine routine of each and every wine explorer! (Source: Wines of Greece)
Before visiting Gavalas I discovered this youtube video where Vaselis describes vine growth on Santorini.
Equally interesting is the fact that Assyrtiko vines adaptation to lack of water in the soil. The growers have helped by placing the vines further apart. Moreover, the adaptation of the vines has resulted in the primary root(s) reaching around 5 meters, with the secondary roots being close to the surface to absorb humidity in the air. For sure the Santorini terroir presents some challenges that significantly affect grape growing. The island is dry enough to be classified as a desert on the Köppen climate scale, and also very windy. On the plus side, the harsh volcanic soils of the island's vineyards have prevented the spread of phylloxera. Unlike most of Europe, the vines do not need to be grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstocks.
Santorini's Uniqueness in the Wine World
Santorini's fertile volcanic land produces products with distinctive flavors. Of course wine is at the top of this list. The island is renowned for its tradition in wine making and fine wine varieties. Winemaking here has been continuous for at least 3500 years, based archeological evidence, and is considered amongst the oldest vineyards of Europe.
Since 2015 I have been drawn to Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. Greek wines with their impressive history are exciting to explore. In fact for me Greek wines made with indigenous grape varieties are amongst the most exciting. For sure Santorini's Assyrtiko, Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety, is amongst the most unique.
Welcome to Santorini
Yes, I know most visitors do not come to Santorini for the wines. Although I am sure some will checkout the wines once there. Santorini, regarded as the most famous of all Greek islands, is also one of the top tourist destinations in the world. The amazing caldera formed by the volcanic eruption centuries ago, has resulted in the most stunning sea views a human eye can ever see. Fortunately for us, we had come just before the start of the peak tourist season, which is June through September.
Welcome to Santorini, Greece © Spaswinefood
Yes, I know Santorini is drop dead gorgeous! Still how can you not check out its wines, especially Assyrtiko. Santorini Assyrtiko was a must on my wine travel list. For sometime now I have been excited to learn more about this wine's great diversity. It is a versatile grape variety, with wines being made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines known as Vinsanto. For sure Santorini added to my appreciation of Assyrtiko.
While in Santorini I visited wineries with two #winelover friends, Carol and Deborah. I was delighted to have my friend Carol, as a traveling buddy. Also, while in Santorini, we meet up with Deborah.
Exploring Santorini with Winelover Friends © Spaswinefood
Wherever our travels took us around the island we saw grapevines thriving despite the island's windy conditions.
Grapevines and Windmills, Santorini © Spaswinefood
The Quintessential Santorini
We did manage to do a sunset cruise the day before leaving. Many of the tour companies were just starting the tourist season that weekend. End of May is when the tourist start to invade the island.
When I left with Santorini, I took with me not only appreciation for its wines but also, deep memories of the quintessential colors of Santorini.
Quintessential Colors of Santorini © Spaswinefood
Santorini's quintessential colors dot the landscape. This adds to the island's charm. Just add some Santorini Assytiko to that list and it is pure nirvana!
Gavalas Winery, Santorini is a must on a wine traveler's list. For me Gavalas Assyrtiko shared with friends spells perfection! There is so much I have come to appreciate about Greek wines. This is definitely the case with Santorini's Assyrtiko. Each time I return to Greece my wine world is filled with amazing grape adventures. Each visit I am more, and more impressed by Greek wines, produced from both indigenous and international grape varieties. Those who have yet discover today's Greek wines now is the time. Now is the time to explore Greek Wines! I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.
CHEERS!
Majestic Santorini © Spaswinefood
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