Travels on Santorini Wine Roads: Domaine Sigalas

When my wine travels last spring took me to Domaine Sigalas in the northern part of Santorini I had come to advance my understanding of Greece's indigenous grape variety Assyrtiko (A seer' tec ko). Assyrtiko is indigenous to Santorini, and arguably Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety. Domaine Sigalas specializes in Assyrtiko wines. The wines produced from grapes grown on centuries old, basket trained vines.

Basket Shaped Assythiko Vines, Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Santorini's fertile volcanic soil produces products with distinctive flavors. Of course wine is at the top of this list. The island is renowned for its tradition in wine making and fine wine varieties. Greek wines with their impressive history are exciting to explore. Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. In fact for me Greek wines made with indigenous grape varieties are amongst the most exciting. Moreover Santorini's Assyrtiko, Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety, tops the list. Besides Assyrtiko, Domaine Sigalas produces Aidani, Athiri, Mandilaria and Mavrotragano wines. 

For sure Santorini's Assyrtiko vines are amongst the most interesting. On the average these vines can reach 70 years old, and some of the vines are amongst the oldest in Greece. Growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training the vines into "baskets", winding the canes into wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds. Since advanced vine age tends to effect wine quality because yields are reduced, this enhances Assyrtiko's potential to make some very complex wines. Equally interesting is the fact that Assyrtiko vines have adaptated to lack of water in the soil. The growers have helped by placing the vines further apart. Moreover, the adaptation of the vines has resulted in the primary root(s) reaching around 5 meters, with the secondary roots being close to the surface to absorb humidity in the air. For sure the Santorini terroir presents some challenges that significantly affect grape vine growing. The island is dry enough to be classified as a desert on the Köppen climate scale, and also is very windy. On the plus side, the harsh volcanic soils of the island's vineyards have prevented the spread of phylloxera. Unlike most of Europe, the vines do not need to be grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstocks. 

Off to Domaine Sigalas

I visited Domaine Sigalas with two #winelover friends, Carol and Deborah. We drove from Fira, at the western edge of the island to Sigalas at the north end of the island. The winery is located on the outskirts of Oia, near the traditional village of Finikia. It is one of best spots on the island to view the sunset.

Exploring Santorini with Winelover Friends © Spaswinefood

Wherever our travels took us in Santorini we saw grapevines thriving despite the island's windy conditions.

Grapevines, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Indeed despite the challenging growing conditions the grapevines have adapted here. Grapevines and windmills dotted the landscape as we drove from Fira to Domaine Signals winery.

Grapevines and Windmills, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Soon we arrived at Domaine Sigalas winery there on the Oia plains. The wine estate cover 40 hectares, with their vineyards cultivated in a sustainable manner.

Domaine Sigalas

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini © Spaswinefood

When we arrived at Domaine Sigalas parking lot the vineyards came into view.

Vineyard, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood

Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood

The vineyard had some new vines. The new vines are irrigated until they are established.

Domaine Sigalas Wine Tasting

For sure I was impressed by my wine tasting at Domaine Sigalas. The winery's annual production is around 200,000 bottles. All of their wine varieties produced from Santorini and neighboring Cyclades  are crafted with careful attention.

Wine Tasting, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood

Domaine Sigalas offers a number of wine tasting options (Assyrtiko, Aidani, Athiri, Mandilaria and Mavrotragano). Since I had come primarily for the Assyrtkio wines they were the wines I selected to taste.

Domaine Sigalas, Assyrtiko Wine List © Spaswinefood

Domaine Sigalas, Assyrtiko Wines © Spaswinefood

The four wines I tasted showed the amazing variation in Domaine Sigalas's Assyrtiko wines. For sometime now I have been learning about this grape's great diversity. Grown in the arid volcanic-ash-rich soil of Santorini and other Aegean islands, Assyrtiko is also found in other regions of Greece, planted as far north as Drama in Greek Macedonia. It is a versatile grape variety, from which wines can be made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines, known as Vinsanto. For sure the Domaine Sigalas tasting added to my appreciation of Assyrtiko.

Sigalas is well know for its award-winning labels that are available across Greece. It is also one of the most prominent exporters of Greek wines worldwide. Their wines are available in the US at Total Wines.

Late Afternoon, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood

Off to Checkout the Vines

Exploring the Vineyard, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood

After the tasting we were encouraged to visit the vineyard. Overall, one of the amazing discoveries for me was to see how Santorini grape growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training their vines into baskets. Baskets are created by winding the canes into wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds. 

Basket Shaped Assythiko Vines, Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood

I had heard so much about these basket shaped wines I just had to check it out.

Sideview of Basket Shaped Assythiko Vines, Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Top View Basket Shaped Assythiko Vines, Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood

A Closer Look at the Basket Shaped Vines © Spaswinefood

I loved seeing the Koulouras up close. Kouloura is the name given to this traditional vine training system used in Santorini. The vines are wound into a basket shape at ground level. This protects the vines from the island's strong winds, and preserves the humidity. For a newbie, there is nothing like a walkabout in a Santorini vineyard.

While in North Greece I was fortunate to visit Kir-Yianni, which acquired Santorini's Sigalas in 2020. Paris Sigalas remains as winemaker and on the board, with Stellios Boutaris as CEO. Clearly the future of Domaine Sigalas, under the direction of Stellios, will be exciting to watch.

Vineyard at Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood

Santorini's Uniqueness

Santorini, regarded as the most famous of all Greek islands, is also one of the top tourist destinations in the world. The amazing caldera formed by the volcanic eruption centuries ago, has resulted in the most stunning sea views a human eye can ever see. Fortunately, we had come at the end of May, just before the start of the peak tourist season, June through September. 

Beginning of the Tourist Season, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Late May 2022, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Before the Crowds, Fira © Spaswinefood

While in Santorini I took advantage of the early mornings to explore Fira.

Late May, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Assyrtiko was a must on my wine travel list. For sometime now I wanted to learn more about this wine with great diversity. Yes, I know Santorini is drop dead gorgeous!  Still how can you not check out its wines, especially Assyrtiko. While grapevines and windmills dot the landscape let's not forget the quintessential Santorini. There is an essence of blue everywhere. We did manage to do a sunset cruise the day before leaving. Many of the tour companies were just starting the tourist season that weekend. The end of May is when the tourist start to invade the island.

Sunset Cruise, Santorini © Spaswinefood

When I left with Santorini, I took with me not only appreciation for its wines but also, deep memories of the quintessential colors of Santorini. 

Quintessential Colors of Santorini © Spaswinefood

Quintessential Colors of Santorini © Spaswinefood

Santorini's quintessential colors dot the landscape. This adds to the island's charm. Just add some Santorini Assytiko to that list and it is pure nirvana! 

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini is a must on a wine traveler's list. Santorini and Assyrtiko shared with friends spells nirvana! There is so much I have come to appreciate about Greek wines. This is definitely the case of Santorini's Assyrtiko. Each visit to Greece I am more, and more impressed by Greek wines, produced from both indigenous and international grape varieties.  Now is the time to explore Greek Wines! I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

CHEERS!

Sharon

Remembering May 2022

Santorini,  Greece

© Spaswinefood

Welcome to Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Santorini, Greece © Spaswinefood

Majestic Santorini © Spaswinefood

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Travels on Santorini Wine Roads: Gavalas Winery

When my wine travels last spring took me to Santorini where we visited Gavalas, a boutique family winery in Megalochori. Gavalas, is one of the oldest wineries in continuous production on the island. The Gavalas family, has been engaged in winemaking with indigenous Santorini varieties, since the end of the 19th century. George Gavalas, fourth-generation winemaker and owner of Gavalas Winery, has been joined by his son, Vagelis who is leading the winery into the fifth generation. For travelers on Santorini Wine Roads Gavalas is a must.

Vagelis Gavalas © Spaswinefood

When we arrived at the winery we were greeted by Vagelis who hosted us for a wine tasting. We would taste Assyrtiko and other Santorini indigenous varieties. I was so excited because Santorini Assyrtiko had been on my wine travel list for awhile. 

Welcome to Gavalas Winery

Gavalas Winery, Santorini, Greece © Spaswinefood

Santorini is home to around 40 indigenous varieties that have persisted because the island was never affected by Phylloxera. Currently 75% of Santorini’s vineyards are planted with its highly prized Assyrtiko (A seer' tec ko). Some of the root stock is assumed to be 400-500 years old, possibly making them the world’s oldest vines. Crisp, fresh, full bodied white wines, mineral and fruity red wines, and the distinguished dessert wine Vinsanto make up a diversity of wines that come from the island's volcanic terroir. Given Santorini's unique viticultural this was why I had come to Santorini. 

During our winery visit I tasted four different styles of Assyrtiko, and three other indigenous varieties -Aidani, Voudomato, and  Mavrotragano.

Vagelis Gavalas Introducing the Wines © Spaswinefood

We began the wine tasting with a Gavalas Aidani 2020.

1. Gavalas Winery, Aidani, PGI Cyclades 2020 

Gavalas Winery, Aidani, PGI Cyclades 2020 © Spaswinefood

Aidani is the second best known white grape variety grown on the island. Akrotiri Vineyards where it is grown are over 50 years old.

Next, we tasted three different styles of Assyritkio wines:

2.1 Gavalas Winery, Santorini, PDO Santorini 2021

Gavalas Winery, Santorini, PDO Santorini 2021 (right) © Spaswinefood

Gavalas Winery, Santorini, PDO Santorini 2021 

Gavalas Winery, Santorini, PDO Santorini 2021 © Spaswinefood

This Assyritkio is vinified in stainless steel tanks. Ideally drink within 2-3 years.

2.2 Gavalas Winery, Santorini Natural Ferment, PDO Santorini 2020 

Gavalas Winery, Santorini Natural Ferment, PDO Santorini 2020 © Spaswinefood

This natural ferment 100% comes from old vines over 50 years old, mainly from the Megalochori area.  is vinified in stainless steel tanks, with a natural yeast ferment. Ideally drink within 2-3 years.

2.3 Gavalas Winery, Santorini Nykteri, PDO Santorini 2021 

Tasting Gavalas Winery Wines  © Spaswinefood

Santorini Nykteri, PDO Santorini 2021 is 100%Assyritkio. The oxidative ageing that takes place,  gives Nykteri a particular character. 

Gavalas Winery, Assyritkio Wines © Spaswinefood

After tasting an Aidiani, and three very different Assyritkios, the next wine was a dry rosé.

3. Gavalas Winery, Voudomato 2018 

Gavalas Winery, Voudomato, PGI Cyclades 2018 © Spaswinefood

Gavalas Winery, Voudomato, PGI Cyclades 2018 © Spaswinefood

This rosé is made with Voudomato, one of the few red varieties of Santorini. It covers about 1% of the island's total vineyards.

After the rosé wine there was a Mavrotragano 2019, and a Vinsanto 2013.

Gavalas Winery, Voudomato, Mavrotragano, Vinsanto © Spaswinefood

4. Gavalas Winery, Mavrotragano, PGI Cyclades 2019

Gavalas Winery, Mavrotragano, PGI Cyclades 2019 (on the right) © Spaswinefood

This was the first time I tasted the very unique Mavrotragano. Below is a description of this grape  by Wines of Greece:

Until recently, this red grape variety with its black (“mavro) and crisp (“tragano”) berries—hence, the name Mavrotragano—was merely blended in the Santorini sweet wines and had become all but extinct. Today, it is one of the highly-touted varieties employed in producing reds. With its future appearing more auspicious than ever, Mavrotragano combines the exotic with the singular in an outstanding, all-inclusive package!

Showcasing it, however, was no mean feat for Santorini wine growers who were forced to search the island’s volcanic soil vine by vine before being able to identify and then multiply the handful of old Mavrotragano vines left. At the winery, winemakers were then faced with the onerous task of bringing to the surface the variety’s exquisite aromas, evocative of premium, flower-bursting Latin American coffee, smoke, and sweet red fruit. Lastly, wine growers had to work toward taming the variety’s robust tannins which complemented the rich, mineral-heavy mouth of the rare, unusual wines Santorini’s Mavrotragano yields.

It is certain that their efforts have not been in vain. Despite the fact that Mavrotragano has revealed but a small part of its potential (it has been planted frugally outside the terroir of Santorini), it shows promise of being as unique as the land that has given it birth: an outstanding variety with the potential of offering one-of-a-kind experiences capable of overturning the habitual wine routine of each and every wine explorer! (Source: Wines of Greece)

5. Gavalas Winery, Vinsanto, PDO Santorini 2013

Gavalas Winery, Vinsanto, PDO Santorini 2013 © Spaswinefood

The tasting concluded with a 2013 Vinsanto, a sweet Assyritkio, a distinguished dessert wine produced from sun-dried grapes.  

The tasting illustrated Assyritkio's versatility. Some versions are now fermented in barrel. Naturally high acidity means that Assyrtiko wines can age for many years. Assyrtiko is sometimes blended with the Athiri and Aidani grape varieties on its native Santorini, in both dry and sweet styles. These days Athiri and Aidani are usually minor components of the blend. Assyrtiko, occasionally seen in Retsina, appears to be falling from favor for that purpose, as more varietal Assyrtiko wines are being crafted.

I  had come to Santorini to explore Greece's indigenous grape variety Assyrtiko, and arguably Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety. For sometime now I have been learning about this grape's great diversity. Grown in the arid volcanic-ash-rich soil of Santorini and other Aegean islands, it is also found in other regions of Greece, planted as far north as Drama in Greek Macedonia. It is a versatile grape variety, from which wines can be made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines, known as Vinsanto. For sure coming to its place of origin, added to my understanding of Assyrtiko.

I was impressed by our wine tasting at Gavalas Winery. Special thanks to Vaselis Gavalas for introducing us to these special wines. 

Gavalas Wines, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Before visiting  Gavalas I discovered this youtube video where Vaselis describes vine growth on Santorini.

Grapevine Baskets, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Grapevines, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Despite the challenging growing conditions on the island the grapevines have adapted here. For sure Santorini's Assyrtiko vines are amongst the most interesting. On the average the vines can reach 70 years old, and some of the vines are amongst the oldest in Greece. Overall, one of the amazing discoveries for me was to see how Santorini grape growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training their vines into baskets. Baskets are created by winding the canes into a wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds. Since advanced vine age tends to effect wine quality because yields are reduced, this enhances Assyrtiko's potential to make some very complex wines.

Santorini Grapevines © Spaswinefood

Equally interesting is the fact that Assyrtiko vines adaptation to lack of water in the soil. The growers have helped by placing the vines further apart. Moreover, the adaptation of the vines has resulted in the primary root(s) reaching around 5 meters, with the secondary roots being close to the surface to absorb humidity in the air. For sure the Santorini terroir presents some challenges that significantly affect grape growing. The island is dry enough to be classified as a desert on the Köppen climate scale, and also very windy. On the plus side, the harsh volcanic soils of the island's vineyards have prevented the spread of phylloxera. Unlike most of Europe, the vines do not need to be grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstocks. 

Santorini's Uniqueness in the Wine World

Santorini's fertile volcanic land produces products with distinctive flavors. Of course wine is at the top of this list. The island is renowned for its tradition in wine making and fine wine varieties. Winemaking here has been continuous for at least 3500 years, based archeological evidence, and is considered amongst the oldest vineyards of Europe. 

Wine Map of Greece © Spaswinefood

Since 2015 I have been drawn to Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. Greek wines with their impressive history are exciting to explore.  In fact for me Greek wines made with indigenous grape varieties are amongst the most exciting. For sure Santorini's Assyrtiko, Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety, is amongst the most unique. 

Welcome to Santorini

Yes, I know most visitors do not come to Santorini for the wines. Although I am sure some will checkout the wines once there. Santorini, regarded as the most famous of all Greek islands, is also one of the top tourist destinations in the world. The amazing caldera formed by the volcanic eruption centuries ago, has resulted in the most stunning sea views a human eye can ever see. Fortunately for us, we had come just before the start of the peak tourist season, which is June through September. 

Welcome to Santorini, Greece © Spaswinefood

Late May, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Yes, I know Santorini is drop dead gorgeous!  Still how can you not check out its wines, especially Assyrtiko. Santorini Assyrtiko was a must on my wine travel list. For sometime now I have been excited to learn more about this wine's great diversity. It is a versatile grape variety, with wines being made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines known as Vinsanto. For sure Santorini added to my appreciation of Assyrtiko.

Basket Shaped Assythiko Vines, Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood

While in Santorini I visited wineries with two #winelover friends, Carol and Deborah. I was delighted to have my friend Carol, as a traveling buddy. Also, while in Santorini, we meet up with Deborah. 

Exploring Santorini with Winelover Friends © Spaswinefood

Wherever our travels took us around the island we saw grapevines thriving despite the island's windy conditions.

Grapevines and Windmills, Santorini © Spaswinefood

The Quintessential Santorini 

We did manage to do a sunset cruise the day before leaving. Many of the tour companies were just starting the tourist season that weekend. End of May is when the tourist start to invade the island.

Sunset Cruise, Santorini © Spaswinefood

When I left with Santorini, I took with me not only appreciation for its wines but also, deep memories of the quintessential colors of Santorini. 

Quintessential Colors of Santorini © Spaswinefood

Quintessential Colors of Santorini © Spaswinefood

Santorini's quintessential colors dot the landscape. This adds to the island's charm. Just add some Santorini Assytiko to that list and it is pure nirvana!

Gavalas Winery, Santorini is a must on a wine traveler's list. For me Gavalas Assyrtiko shared with friends spells perfection! There is so much I have come to appreciate about Greek wines. This is definitely the case with Santorini's Assyrtiko. Each time I return to Greece my wine world is filled with amazing grape adventures. Each visit I am more, and more impressed by Greek wines, produced from both indigenous and international grape varieties. Those who have yet discover today's Greek wines now is the time. Now is the time to explore Greek Wines! I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

CHEERS!

Sharon

May 2022

Santorini,  Greece

© Spaswinefood

Arriving at Gavalas Winery © Spaswinefood

Majestic Santorini © Spaswinefood

Cruise Ships, Santorini © Spaswinefood

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