Thursday, March 23, 2023

Travels on Santorini Wine Roads: Domaine Sigalas

When my wine travels last spring took me to Domaine Sigalas in the northern part of Santorini I had come to advance my understanding of Greece's indigenous grape variety Assyrtiko (A seer' tec ko). Assyrtiko is indigenous to Santorini, and arguably Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety. Domaine Sigalas specializes in Assyrtiko wines. The wines produced from grapes grown on centuries old, basket trained vines.

Basket Shaped Assythiko Vines, Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Santorini's fertile volcanic soil produces products with distinctive flavors. Of course wine is at the top of this list. The island is renowned for its tradition in wine making and fine wine varieties. Greek wines with their impressive history are exciting to explore. Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. In fact for me Greek wines made with indigenous grape varieties are amongst the most exciting. Moreover Santorini's Assyrtiko, Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety, tops the list. Besides Assyrtiko, Domaine Sigalas produces Aidani, Athiri, Mandilaria and Mavrotragano wines. 

For sure Santorini's Assyrtiko vines are amongst the most interesting. On the average these vines can reach 70 years old, and some of the vines are amongst the oldest in Greece. Growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training the vines into "baskets", winding the canes into wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds. Since advanced vine age tends to effect wine quality because yields are reduced, this enhances Assyrtiko's potential to make some very complex wines. Equally interesting is the fact that Assyrtiko vines have adaptated to lack of water in the soil. The growers have helped by placing the vines further apart. Moreover, the adaptation of the vines has resulted in the primary root(s) reaching around 5 meters, with the secondary roots being close to the surface to absorb humidity in the air. For sure the Santorini terroir presents some challenges that significantly affect grape vine growing. The island is dry enough to be classified as a desert on the Köppen climate scale, and also is very windy. On the plus side, the harsh volcanic soils of the island's vineyards have prevented the spread of phylloxera. Unlike most of Europe, the vines do not need to be grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstocks. 

Off to Domaine Sigalas
I visited Domaine Sigalas with two #winelover friends, Carol and Deborah. We drove from Fira, at the western edge of the island to Sigalas at the north end of the island. The winery is located on the outskirts of Oia, near the traditional village of Finikia. It is one of best spots on the island to view the sunset.

Exploring Santorini with Winelover Friends © Spaswinefood

Wherever our travels took us in Santorini we saw grapevines thriving despite the island's windy conditions.

Grapevines, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Indeed despite the challenging growing conditions the grapevines have adapted here. Grapevines and windmills dotted the landscape as we drove from Fira to Domaine Signals winery.

Grapevines and Windmills, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Soon we arrived at Domaine Sigalas winery there on the Oia plains. The wine estate cover 40 hectares, with their vineyards cultivated in a sustainable manner.

Domaine Sigalas

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini © Spaswinefood

When we arrived at Domaine Sigalas parking lot the vineyards came into view.


Vineyard, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood
Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood


The vineyard had some new vines. The new vines are irrigated until they are established.


Domaine Sigalas Wine Tasting

For sure I was impressed by my wine tasting at Domaine Sigalas. The winery's annual production is around 200,000 bottles. All of their wine varieties produced from Santorini and neighboring Cyclades  are crafted with careful attention.


Wine Tasting, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood


Domaine Sigalas offers a number of wine tasting options (Assyrtiko, Aidani, Athiri, Mandilaria and Mavrotragano). Since I had come primarily for the Assyrtkio wines they were the wines I selected to taste.


Domaine Sigalas, Assyrtiko Wine List © Spaswinefood

Domaine Sigalas, Assyrtiko Wines © Spaswinefood

The four wines I tasted showed the amazing variation in Domaine Sigalas's Assyrtiko wines. For sometime now I have been learning about this grape's great diversity. Grown in the arid volcanic-ash-rich soil of Santorini and other Aegean islands, Assyrtiko is also found in other regions of Greece, planted as far north as Drama in Greek Macedonia. It is a versatile grape variety, from which wines can be made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines, known as Vinsanto. For sure the Domaine Sigalas tasting added to my appreciation of Assyrtiko.


Sigalas is well know for its award-winning labels that are available across Greece. It is also one of the most prominent exporters of Greek wines worldwide. Their wines are available in the US at Total Wines.

Late Afternoon, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood


Off to Checkout the Vines

Exploring the Vineyard, Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood

After the tasting we were encouraged to visit the vineyard. Overall, one of the amazing discoveries for me was to see how Santorini grape growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training their vines into baskets. Baskets are created by winding the canes into wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds. 


Basket Shaped Assythiko Vines, Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood

I had heard so much about these basket shaped wines I just had to check it out.


Sideview of Basket Shaped Assythiko Vines, Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood


Top View Basket Shaped Assythiko Vines, Domaine Sigalas Vineyard © Spaswinefood


A Closer Look at the Basket Shaped Vines © Spaswinefood

I loved seeing the Koulouras up close. Kouloura is the name given to this traditional vine training system used in Santorini. The vines are wound into a basket shape at ground level. This protects the vines from the island's strong winds, and preserves the humidity. For a newbie, there is nothing like a walkabout in a Santorini vineyard.

While in North Greece I was fortunate to visit Kir-Yianni, which acquired Santorini's Sigalas in 2020. Paris Sigalas remains as winemaker and on the board, with Stellios Boutaris as CEO. Clearly the future of Domaine Sigalas, under the direction of Stellios, will be exciting to watch.


Vineyard at Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood

Santorini's Uniqueness

Santorini, regarded as the most famous of all Greek islands, is also one of the top tourist destinations in the world. The amazing caldera formed by the volcanic eruption centuries ago, has resulted in the most stunning sea views a human eye can ever seeFortunately, we had come at the end of May, just before the start of the peak tourist season, June through September. 

Beginning of the Tourist Season, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Late May 2022, Santorini © Spaswinefood
Before the Crowds, Fira © Spaswinefood

While in Santorini I took advantage of the early mornings to explore Fira.

Late May, Santorini © Spaswinefood

Assyrtiko was a must on my wine travel list. For sometime now I wanted to learn more about this wine with great diversity. Yes, I know Santorini is drop dead gorgeous!  Still how can you not check out its wines, especially Assyrtiko. While grapevines and windmills dot the landscape let's not forget the quintessential Santorini. There is an essence of blue everywhere. We did manage to do a sunset cruise the day before leaving. Many of the tour companies were just starting the tourist season that weekend. The end of May is when the tourist start to invade the island.


Sunset Cruise, Santorini © Spaswinefood

When I left with Santorini, I took with me not only appreciation for its wines but also, deep memories of the quintessential colors of Santorini. 

Quintessential Colors of Santorini © Spaswinefood

Quintessential Colors of Santorini © Spaswinefood

Santorini's quintessential colors dot the landscape. This adds to the island's charm. Just add some Santorini Assytiko to that list and it is pure nirvana! 

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini is a must on a wine traveler's list. Santorini and Assyrtiko shared with friends spells nirvana! There is so much I have come to appreciate about Greek wines. This is definitely the case of Santorini's Assyrtiko. Each visit to Greece I am more, and more impressed by Greek wines, produced from both indigenous and international grape varieties Now is the time to explore Greek WinesI invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

CHEERS!


Sharon
Remembering May 2022
Santorini,  Greece
© Spaswinefood

Welcome to Domaine Sigalas © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Santorini, Greece © Spaswinefood

Majestic Santorini © Spaswinefood

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