It was the end of May 2022 when I boarded the plane to Bucharest from Athens. I was off to Romania to celebrate First International Fetească Regală Day. I would continue onto Transylvania Wine Country with #winelover friends. Visiting Transylvania, the birthplace of Fetească Regală (Royal Maiden) grape, and known for its white and sparkling wines, was a must for me. It was indeed great to continue on my wine journey with Romanian native grapes. This time Fetească Regală claimed the spotlight.
Villa Vinèa © Spaswinefood
RTraube Hotel, Mediaș © SpaswinefoodI had come to visit Transylvania Wine Country with #winelover friends. Visiting Transylvania, the birthplace of Fetească Regală (Royal Maiden) grape, and known for its white and sparkling wines, was a must for me. I was delighted to explore the rich wine history of Transylvania. The focus of my Transylvanian wine travels was to (1) discover Transylvania wine country, and (2) celebrate the First International Fetească Regală Day on June 3, 2022.
If Transylvania's rich history, cuisine and incredible wines is a surprise, then you need to know that Transylvania has been producing wine for centuries, dating back to the 1600's. While Transylvania has been influenced by its many ethnic population, the Hungarian and German communities have substantially influenced the local culture, and wine making here. Transylvania is home to five DOC wine regions (Aiud, Alba Iulia, Sebeș-Apold, Lechința and Târnave), which are located along three river valleys (Târnava, Mureș and Sebeș).
Let's Celebrate Fetească Regală (Royal Maiden)
It was June 3, 2022 and we had come to Mediaș,Transylvania to celebrate the First International Fetească Regală Day. We did a morning visit to a nearby winery, ate lunch in town, and toured of some of Mediaș's historical wine sites, some of which are in the process of reconstruction. Later, over dinner at Hanul Greweln there was a Fetească Regală wine tasting, and the launching of Octavian Isailă's book, Rebuilding of the old wine metropolis of Transylvania.
Feteasca Regala Wine Tasting © Spaswinefood
Over dinner that evening I got a sense of Mediaș's rich wine history.
Time to Celebrate Mediaș © Spaswinefood
That day with the celebration of International Fetească Regală Day it signaled the reclaiming of Mediaș's wine history. We were indeed most fortunate to get a glimpse into some of that history, as an old wine-trade town.
Time to Celebrate Romanian Native Grapes
Romanian wines made with native grape varieties are very attractive, not just because of their obscurity, but also because wines made from Romania's indigenous grape varieties are very good. When I was first introduced to white wines, with names like Fetească Regală, and Tămâioasă Românească, and red wines with names like Fetească Neagră, their names initially posed a challenge however, many of the wines were impressive. Fortunately prior Romanian wine country explorations have taken me to the Crisana, Dragasani, Dealu Mare, and Oltenia wine regions. Hence, little by little, these names have become part of my wine vocabulary. While some wine drinkers are content to stay within their comfort zone, now is a time to explore. Throughout the wine regions of the world there is a growing interest in unique local varieties. I invite you to begin a journey into that unique wine world with Romanian wines.
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| Fetească Neagră, Licorna Winehouse Vineyard 2016 © Spaswinefood |
Prior to June 2022 my Romanian wine country explorations had taken me to the Crisana, Dragasani, Dealu Mare, and Oltenia wine regions. I was introduced to Romanian native grapes during earlier visits to the Dealu Mare (August 2016, and November 2018), Dragasani (August 2016, and November 2017), and to the Crisana (November 2018). In addition, I was most fortunate to attend the 2017 and 2018 Rovinhud Wine Show in Timisoara. You can also begin a similar journey by asking for Romanian wines made with native grape varieties (Fetească Neagră, Negru de Drăgășani, Novac, Fetească Albă, Fetească Regala and Tămâioasă Românească) at your favorite wine store. First, this wine traveler will share a few insights into Romanian wines, which are produced from indigenous grape varieties.
Dragasani Wine Country
We gathered around the table at Avincis one November evening to explore Dragasani wines. Our #olteniawinetour included an overnight stay at Avincis, a key player in Dragasani’s rebirth. Cristiana Stoica and her husband Valeriu established Crama Avincis in 2007 to continue a family tradition. Avincis is now a symbol for the revival of Romanian wine.
We gathered around the table at Avincis one November evening to explore Dragasani wines. Our #olteniawinetour included an overnight stay at Avincis, a key player in Dragasani’s rebirth. Cristiana Stoica and her husband Valeriu established Crama Avincis in 2007 to continue a family tradition. Avincis is now a symbol for the revival of Romanian wine.
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| Wine Tasting, Avincis Winery © Spaswinefood |
During our Avincis stay we sampled wines made with the local grape varieties, like Crâmpoşie Selecţionată, Fetească Regală, and Negru de Drăgăşani.
Avincis, Crâmpoşie Selecţionată 2015
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| Avincis, Crâmpoşie Selecţionată 2015 © Spaswinefood |
Avincis, Negru de Drăgăşani 2012
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| Avincis, Negru de Drăgăşani 2012 © Spaswinefood |
While sitting there I briefly reflected on an earlier August 2016 visit with #winelover friends to Avincis winery. It was on that earlier trip that I first visited Cramas Bauer and Stirbey.
Crama Bauer
Dragasani's Crama Bauer is located right next door to the historical Prince Stirbey wine estate. A significant player in the Dragasani's rebirth is Prince Stirbey's granddaughter, Baroness Ilena Kripp-Costinescu and her husband Jakob Kripp who began the process of re-establishing the family's wine estate in 2001. A sure indication that the Dragasani is indeed on the wine road to success is the establishment of wineries by newcomers. Amongst the newcomers is Crama Bauer.
Crama Bauer
Dragasani's Crama Bauer is located right next door to the historical Prince Stirbey wine estate. A significant player in the Dragasani's rebirth is Prince Stirbey's granddaughter, Baroness Ilena Kripp-Costinescu and her husband Jakob Kripp who began the process of re-establishing the family's wine estate in 2001. A sure indication that the Dragasani is indeed on the wine road to success is the establishment of wineries by newcomers. Amongst the newcomers is Crama Bauer.
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| Oliver Bauer, Winemaker © Spaswinefood |
Not only is Crama Bauer located right next door to the historical Stirbey wine estate but they also share something in common is winemaker, Oliver Bauer. Bauer is the winemaker at both wineries. Bauer joined Stirbey in 2003. In 2012 he and his wife Raluca started their own winery. This exciting young winery's winemaking philosophy is "Natural Creativity". Amongst the native grape varieties used to make their wines include Cramposie Selectionata, Feteasca Regala, and Negru de Dragasani. During our visit we tasted:
Crama Bauer, Cramposie Selectionata 2015
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| Drama Bauer, Cramposie Selectionata 2015 © Spaswinefood |
This was my first introduction to Cramposie Selectionata. I have since discovered that Cramposie is synomous with the Dragasani and vice-versa. It is one of the oldest grape varieties given it has been cultivated in this area since the time of the Dacians. Cramposie survived the phylloxera outbreak. In 1972 researchers at Research Station WINE Dragasani developed a new variety called Cramposie Selectionata, to solve Cramposie's sterility problem.
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| Tasting Cramposie Selectionata 2015 © Spaswinefood |
Crama Stirbey
While Crama Stirbey is rooted in Dragasani’s past it also has taken a leap into the future. It is a modern winery that has clearly defined its future goals. The rebirth of Prince Stirbey’s wine estate is focused on discovering (1) the terroir of each vineyard, and (2) the potential of each grape variety cultivated on the estate. Their ultimate wine making goal is to discover the spirit of the place (Genius Loci). What I discovered at Crama Stirbey was a sense of pride in producing top quality Dragasani wines. It was indeed special for me to spend time with the owner, Baroness Ilena Kripp-Costinescu and winemaker Oliver Bauer.
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| Wine Tasting Elegance, Crama Stirbey © Spaswinefood |
Now, I would like to focus on the wines poured. Included in the Stirbey white wines tasting were Cramposie Selectionata (both still and sparkling), Feteasca Regala, and Tămaioasă Romanească.
Prince Stirbey, Cramposie Selectionata 2015
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| Prince Stirbey, Cramposie Selectionata 2015 © Spaswinefood |
Cramposie Selectionata, Feteasca Regala, and Tămaioasă Romanească are Romanian native grape varieties that I tasted earlier.
The Prince Stirbey red wines included Negru de Dragasani, and Novac.
(1) Prince Stirbey, Negru de Drăgăşani 2013
(1) Prince Stirbey, Negru de Drăgăşani 2013
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| Prince Stirbey, Novac 2013 © Spaswinefood |
I enjoyed very much Prince Stirbey Negru de Dragasani and Novac wines. I got to taste Novac as a still red wine and as a sparkling wine. The Novac grape variety was produced from Negru Vartos (Southern Romania) and Saperavi (Georgia) grape varieties. It was first approved in 1987. Mărculescu Mircea at the Statia de Cercetare Viti-Vinicola, Dragasani is credited with its creation.
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| Baroness Ilena Kripp-Costinescu, Crama Stirbey © Spaswinefood |
Dragasani wines were highly regarded in Europe until the communist occupation. Since the 1989 revolution clearly the Dragasani has undergone a rebirth. It is because of the Dragasni and Romania's other wine regions that Romania has already begun to establish a track record of award winning wines at national and international levels.
Since first discovering Dragasani wines I have continued to get to explore these wines at wine gatherings in Romania and elsewhere.
Since first discovering Dragasani wines I have continued to get to explore these wines at wine gatherings in Romania and elsewhere.
Dealu Mare Wine Country
Summer (August 2016) I would visit Dealu Mare, returning in November 2018 for a second visit. Dealu Mare is located just an hour's drive from Bucharest in Southern Romania's Muntenia wine region, or as it sometimes described the Muntenia hills (Greater Wallachia). Dealu Mare (Big Hill) Vineyards, one of the best known vineyard areas, stretches for 90 km. from Valea Calugareasca (near Ploiesti) to Merei/Vernestin (near Buzau), covering the counties of Buzau and Prahova.
LacertA Winery
Even on a chilly November day there was a warm welcome when we arrived. Lacerta, Latin for lizard, takes its name from the a small lizard found in the area. Obviously in November the lizards were nowhere to be seen. Still the landscape, even in November, captures the attention of winelovers.
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| November Vineyards, LacertA Winery © Spaswinefood |
Tasting Fetească Albă at LacertA winery on that foggy November morning set the pace for a rewarding vine-filled day in the Dealu Mare.
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| LacertA Fetească Albă 2013 © Spaswinefood |
Domeniile Sahateni
When we arrived mid-morning at Dealu Mare's Domeniile Sahateni we were met by Aurelia Visinescu, winemaker and her team. Since 2000 there has been a rebirth of wine making in the Dealu Mare, with the establishment of modern wineries, such as Domeniile Sahateni.
When we arrived mid-morning at Dealu Mare's Domeniile Sahateni we were met by Aurelia Visinescu, winemaker and her team. Since 2000 there has been a rebirth of wine making in the Dealu Mare, with the establishment of modern wineries, such as Domeniile Sahateni.
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| Aurelia Visinescu, Winemaker © Spaswinefood |
During the wine tasting we tasted wines made with Romania's indigenous (Fetească Neagră, Fetească Alba, Fetească Regala, and Tămâioasă Românească). One of my favorite Fetească Regala wines is made by Aureila Visinescu.
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| Aurelia Visinescu, Nomad Fetească Regală 2018 © Spaswinefood |
Amongst the red wines we tasted was a 3 Fete Negre (three black ladies), a blend of the best Fetească Neagră (the black maiden) from 2014, 2015 and 2016. Aurelia Visinescu was the first to vinify Feteasca Neagra as a dry wine. The Romanian wine industry followed suit. Feteasca Neagra, as a dry wine soon became one of Romania's favorites.
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| Domeniile Sahateni Highlights © Spaswinefood |
Licorna Winehouse
Ever since I was first introduced to Licorna Winehouse wines I have been on the lookout for their wines. Then again November 2018, we had a most delightful visit to Licorna Winehouse with winemaker, Gabriel Lacureanu. If you have ever tasted Licorna Winehouse wines then you will not be surprised to discover that this Romanian winemaker is making award-winning wines.
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| Licorna Winehouse Highlights © Spaswinefood |
Our tasting began with two Romanian indigenous (Fetească Albă) wines. We would end of the tasting with a dessert wine that is made from another indigenous white grape variety, Tămâioasă Românească.
Licorna Winehouse, Serafin Fetească Albă 2015
Licorna Winehouse, Serafin Fetească Albă 2015
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| Licorna Winehouse, Serafin Fetească Albă 2015 © Spaswinefood |
The two Fetească Albă 2015 wines tasted not only look different but have delightfully different tasting profiles.
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| Licorna Winehouse, Fetească Albă 2015 Wines © Spaswinefood |
Romania's indigenous red grape variety Fetească Neagră is getting lots of good press these days. We tasted a Licorna Winehouse Serafin Fetească Neagră 2016.
Licorna Winehouse, Serafin Fetească Neagră 2016
Their 2015 vintage took a Silver Medal at Decanter.
We ended our tasting on a sweet note with a Tămâioasă Românească. Their 2016 Tămâioasă Românească Dulce won a Silver Medal at Decantar.
Licorna Winehouse, Serafin Fetească Neagră 2016
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| Licorna Winehouse, Serafin Fetească Neagră 2016 © Spaswinefood |
We ended our tasting on a sweet note with a Tămâioasă Românească. Their 2016 Tămâioasă Românească Dulce won a Silver Medal at Decantar.
Tohani's Valahorum Mansion
Tasting Fetească Neagră at the beautiful Valahorum Mansion is hard to beat.
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| #Winelover_s, Valahorum Mansion © Spaswinefood |
It was late evening when our #winelover group arrived at Tohani's Valahorum Mansion and Apogeum Wine Cellar. Their beautifully restored Valahorum Mansion is a most ideal place to spend an evening tasting some very special wines.
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| Tasting Apogeum, Valahorum Mansion © Spaswinefood |
This was my first introduction to Tohani's Apogeum, a limited edition of Fetească Neagră wines. I would highly recommend that you taste these wines.
S.E.R.V.E.
You get to taste awesome wines when you spend time with one of Romania's top winemakers, Aurel Rotarescu. Fortunately our Dealu Mare adventure included a visit with Rotarescu at S.E.R.V.E. (Societatea Euro Româna de Vinuri de Excepţie) Winery. It was extra special to meet up S.E.R.V.E. winemakers, Aurel Rotarescu and his son, Silviu at the winery.
You get to taste awesome wines when you spend time with one of Romania's top winemakers, Aurel Rotarescu. Fortunately our Dealu Mare adventure included a visit with Rotarescu at S.E.R.V.E. (Societatea Euro Româna de Vinuri de Excepţie) Winery. It was extra special to meet up S.E.R.V.E. winemakers, Aurel Rotarescu and his son, Silviu at the winery.
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| Tasting S.E.R.V.E. Wines with the Winemakers © Spaswinefood |
Guy Tyrel de Poix, S.E.R.V.E founder, set high standards for wine making, which Aurel Rotarescu has followed. This first private winery in Romania is known for a number firsts in wines, producing the first dry rosé, and first Romanian Cuvée. Winemaker Rotarescu has been instrumental in achieving Guy Tyrel de Poix dream by putting an emphasis on the production of quality wines.
When it comes to SERVE Fetească Neagră wines we were in for a very special treat.
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| SERVE Fetească Neagră © Spaswinefood |
We did a vertical tasting of S.E.R.V.E. Fetească Neagră wines, tasting 2008 through 2013. There was lots of discussion about what kind of growing season it was for each vintage of SERVE Fetească Neagră. Some #winelover_s had their favorite vintage. What can I say, they were all good. Aurel Rotarescu has achieved excellence in wine making.
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| SERVE Fetească Neagră in the Glass © Spaswinefood |
Looking at SERVE Fetească Neagră in the Glass I was reminded that in 2014 SERVE celebrated its 20 year anniversary.
Davino Wines
Even on a chilly November afternoon there was a warm welcome to Davino from Dan Balabar, winery owner. This was followed by a tour of their new facility with winemaker, Bogdan Costachescu.
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| Davino's New Winery © Spaswinefood |
I totally appreciated seeing their new facility, surrounded by vineyards, and with amazing views in all directions. Even though it was late evening Davino's expansive vineyards painted a striking picture against the autumn landscape. After touring the tank and barrel rooms at the new winery, we returned to their original facility for a wine tasting. You can not help but notice the beautiful art in the tasting room. My understanding is that Davino is a great supporter of Romanian artists. They not only have art works displayed at the winery but also their wine labels are designed by artists as well.
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| Ready to Taste Davino Wines © Spaswinefood |
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| #Winelovers, Davino Wines © Spaswinefood |
1. Davino, IACOB Cabernet Sauvignon & Fetească Neagra 2016
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| Davino, IACOB Cabernet Sauvignon & Fetească Neagra 2016 © Spaswinefood |
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| Davino, Monogram Fetească Neagra 2014 © Spaswinefood |
3. Davino, Domaine Ceptura Rouge 2013
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| Davino, Domaine Ceptura Rouge 2013 © Spaswinefood |
4. Davino Flamboyant 2013
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| Davino, Flamboyant 2013 © Spaswinefood |
Davino's emphasis on the production of fine wines is informed by their efforts to establish a benchmark for quality. They produces blended wines from Fetească Albă, Riesling Italian, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Fetească Neagra grape varieties. Two of these, the indigenous Romanian grape varieties Fetească Albă, and Fetească Neagra, are made as single varietal wines. These grapes are grown on old vines. In addition, their Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines are also grown on old vines.
Oltenia Wine Country
Cool breezes were sweeping across the vineyard when #winelovers arrived at Mosia Galicea Mare, the first winery stop on our Oltenia Wine Tour. This Spaswinefood adventurer immediately felt at home given the winery owner was there to greet us. Weather wise it was certainly nothing to cause alarm. It was after all mid-November in Romania, a time of the year when most winery activities are typically held inside.
The winery owner not only greeted us but also introduced us to the regional gastronomy of Dolj County.
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| Galicea Mare, Dolj County, Romania © Spaswinefood |
We began with a tour of the new wine cellar/tasting room area under construction in an historic brick building.
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| Touring Galicea Mare's Reconstruction © Spaswinefood |
My understanding is that the winery is on the site of an historic site/landmark. After viewing the reconstruction we viewed some of the production side of the winery's operations. While touring I did manage to also catch a glimpse of the November vineyards. My understanding is that some accommodations are available at the winery.
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| November Vineyard, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
Later we settled into a wine tasting with local food. It was the most delightful fall picnic.
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| Ready for Galicea Mare Wines © Spaswinefood |
The winery is located in an area rich in tradition. The reception area was setup with delightful local foods to sample. The owner delighted in showcasing the local foods along with his wines.
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| Showcasing Local Cuisine, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
Here are some of the wines that I tasted.
Tămaioasă Romanească, a Romanian native grape variety, produces a most delightful white wine.
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| Galicea Mare, Tămaioasă Romanească 2016 © Spaswinefood |
It was exciting lineup of Galicea Mare wines. Yes, there was a Fetească Neagra, a Romanian native red grape variety.
Just outside the reception area more wines and food awaited us.
The food displays were quite colorful.
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| Welcome to Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
Just outside the reception area more wines and food awaited us.
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| Bread and Wine, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
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| The Art of Presentation, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
The meat lovers were not disappointed.
Let me not forget the breads and cheese.
While the menu served included meat our hosts were quick to accommodate any vegetarians, and those needing a gluten free diet.
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| Capturing the Fork, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
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| Local Bread, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
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| The Art of Cheese, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
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| Inviting Peppers, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
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| Colorful and Delicious, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
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| Delicious Potatoes, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
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| Galicea Mare Gastronomic Delights © Spaswinefood |
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| Gastronomic Delights, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
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| Gastronomic Delights, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
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| Food and Wine Moments, Galicea Mare © Spaswinefood |
Time with Friends
I loved the relaxing atmosphere at Mosia Galicea Mare. I cannot help but think about how special it is to spend time with friends. Those times always pass too quickly. Our visit to Mosia Galicea Mare, the first stop on our Olentia #winelover tour, was a welcoming introduction to Olentia wine country after traveling for over four hours from Timisoara we were happy to relax over lunch with wines.
I loved the relaxing atmosphere at Mosia Galicea Mare. I cannot help but think about how special it is to spend time with friends. Those times always pass too quickly. Our visit to Mosia Galicea Mare, the first stop on our Olentia #winelover tour, was a welcoming introduction to Olentia wine country after traveling for over four hours from Timisoara we were happy to relax over lunch with wines.
Crisana Wine Country
Fortunately, November 2018, I had the opportunity to take a Crisana #Winelover Tour. Crisana wine region, located on Romania's western border with Hungary, is an area with a temperate-continental climate, and unique terroir. Wine making here has a long tradition. Wines from this region were the favorites of Astro-Hungarian emperors. Our #winelover tour of Crisana wine country began in Oradea with an amazing dinner at Millésime. Over dinner we were introduced to outstanding wines.
Fortunately, November 2018, I had the opportunity to take a Crisana #Winelover Tour. Crisana wine region, located on Romania's western border with Hungary, is an area with a temperate-continental climate, and unique terroir. Wine making here has a long tradition. Wines from this region were the favorites of Astro-Hungarian emperors. Our #winelover tour of Crisana wine country began in Oradea with an amazing dinner at Millésime. Over dinner we were introduced to outstanding wines.
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| #Winelovers Visit Millésime © Spaswinefood |
Let me share a few special Fetească Neagra wines.
1. Clos des Colombes, Cuvée Renaissance, Colinele Dobrogei 2014
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| Clos des Colombes, Cuvée Renaissance 2014 © Spaswinefood |
This is a red wine blend of Syrah and Fetească Neagra.
2. Aurelia Visinescu, 3 Fetes Negre, Dealu Mare DOC 2014, 2015 & 2016
3. Ville Metamorfosis, Cantvs Primvs Fetească Neagră, Dealu Mare DOC 2016
4. Casa de Vinuri Stefanesti, 413 Marcea Reserve Fetească Neagră 2016
Yes, it was quite an exciting lineup of various expressions of Fetească Neagra. Romania's Fetească Neagră certainly tops the list.
In conclusion by visiting the above wine regions, and attending Rovinhud Wine Shows I have had the pleasure of discovering Romania's native wine grapes varieties. Now is the time to celebrate Romanian native grapes. I would highly recommend that you take the opportunity to try Romanian wines made with native wine grapes. You may also fall in love with Romanian wines made with native wine grapes. Romania is an emerging star in the wine world. Visitors to Romania should checkout #Winelover Romania, which has posted a list of wine bars offering wine made with 14 indigenous grape varieties. Without a doubt, #Winelover Romania, provides a great opportunity to explore native wine grapes varieties. I would like to thank Razvan Stoenescu, #Winelover Romania for my amazing vine-filled adventures, and Luiz Alberto, Winelover Community for his leadership. Spaswinefood looks forward to my upcoming and future travels in Romania. I invite you to join me in my Romanian wine country travels and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing future vine-filled explorations in Romania.
CHEERS,
Sharon
Reflections on Wine Country Travels in Romania
2016-2022
© Spaswinefood
Thank You, Winelover Romania © Spaswinefood
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| #Winelover Romania On Tour © Spaswinefood |
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