Marche on the eastern side of central Italy is considered to be a coastal gem. Our journey to Marche (pronounced Markay) was inspired by wanting to learn about this wine region. Winemaking here dates back thousands of years, being influenced by Etruscans, Romans and Lombards. While Marche is best known for its white wines Trebbiano and Verdicchio, it is also home to some big quality reds. Some of Marche's finest red wines are produced from Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes. During our Le Marche travels we would stop in Pesaro on the Adriatic, and then head inland to Maiolati Spontini. Verdicchio wines from Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC was my primary focus for our visit to Le Marche's Maiolati Spontini. We soon discovered that Le Marche is ideal for making wine discoveries off the beaten path.
While sometimes Marche is overshadowed by its neighbors Abruzzo to the south, and Umbria and Tuscany to the west, this wine region produces great wines. There is so much to discover about Marche's wines given it is home to 15 DOCs and 5 DOCGs.
After our two-day visit to Pesaro (Pesaro e Urbino) on the coast, we headed inland to Maiolati Spontini (Acona) to explore wine country before traveling onto Umbria. While in the Maiolati Spontini area we explored Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi wine country.
Our drive from Pesaro to Maiolati Spontini took us, from a flat coastal into rolling hills and mountainous terrain. Overall, during our travels the highways were smooth sailing compared to the countryside roads. John was great at driving a manual shift car since I have only driven automatic cars.
Welcome to Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, a white-wine DOC in the Marche region, is home to dry white wines made from the ancient Verdicchio grape variety. Verdicchio means little green one. Besides dry whites, other forms of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi include passito wines made from dried grapes (made in sweet and dry styles) and spumante, which are made using either the Charmat method or methode traditionnelle. The DOC has a superior classico sub-zone. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Superiore designation denotes wines with an extra 0.5 percent of alcohol. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva can be given a separate higher DOCG status.
The dry white wines are typically straw colored with pronounced green tinges, with a green aroma profile (herbaceous notes and fresh apples). They have crisp acidity and a pleasant, slightly bitter aftertaste redolent of toasted almonds. The wine pairs well with regional seafood dishes, such as Brodetto di Pesce (a rich seafood stew like bouillabaisse), or cheeses, such as pecorino.
This wine zone is characterized by hilly landscape around the town of Jesi, Ancona province. The terroir is ideal for the production of minerally dry white wines, mostly due to its calcareous, clay and limestone soils. The area’s temperate maritime climate is due to Jesi's proximity to the Adriatic, and to the local rivers, such as the Cesano and Esino. The east-west passage of the rivers and their corresponding valleys provide the area with persistent gentle winds, onshore during the morning and offshore in the late afternoon. This constant ventilation helps prevent the onset of fungal diseases such as grey rot and mildew. Overall it has relatively dry climate.
Verdicchio wines in and around Jesi are softer and more rounded than those produced in Matelica to the south. Verdicchio di Matelica wine usually needs several years of aging to round out its strong character. This is a contrast to Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi wine that is approachable within the early months.
Based on local recommendations I came up with a short list of three Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi wineries to visit.
Overall this was a beautiful drive through the countryside to learn about wines produced here.
Intro to Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC Wineries
1. AZ Agricola Sabbionare, Montecarotio
When we arrived at Sabbionare we went inside and received a warm welcome. The wine tasting included:
(1) Sabbionare, il Filettò, Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC Classico 2021
3. Sabbionare, Ribotta Esino Rosso DOC 2021
Sabbionare, Ribotta Esino Rosso DOC 2021 © Spaswinefood
Sabbionare, Ribotta Rosso Esino DOC 2021 © Spaswinefood
The Ribotta Esino Rosso is a blend of Multipluciano and Sangiovese. Esino DOC is the zone stretching from Ancona, in the West, along the river Esino and parts of the Macerata province, namely the same area where the Verdicchio wines are grown.
4. Sabbionare, Cromia Marche Rosso IGT 2021
Sabbionare, Cromia Marche Rosso IGT 2021 © Spaswinefood
Cromia is a blend of Montepulciano 90% Merlot 10%. Marche IGT is used in the Marche wine region. This designation covers a wide range of wine styles (still, sparkling, sweet, etc.). For example Marche IGT Bianco may be made from any of the grape varieties approved for white wine in Marche. Marche IGT Rosato and Rosso have the same flexibility with authorized red grapes. The result is a large number varieties are allowed for single-variety and double-variety labeled wines.
Our wonderful Sabbionare host that morning took us to the back patio to view their vineyard. This was our first stop for the day and so I did not linger as long as I should have.
It was a delight to take in the vineyard views at Sabbionare winery.
It was back into the car and onto our next stop. Soon we arrived at Cantina Sartarelli where they were busy attending to the harvest.
2. Cantina Sartarelli, Poggio San Marcello
Upon arriving at Sartarelli I checked out the stunning views.
Cantina Satarelli is a very inviting family winery that has chosen to produce only Verdicchio. In Verdicchio Veritas is proudly displayed on the wall in the tasting room at Satarelli.
During our Cantina Sartarelli visit we tasted the following four wines:
(1) Sartarelli, Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC Classico 2021
Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC Classico 2021 © Spaswinefood
(2) Sartarelli, Travilio Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC Classico Superiore 2020
Travilio Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC Classico Superiore 2020 © Spaswinefood
3. Sartarelli, Ballancia Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2019
(4) Sartarelli, Milletta Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi Riserva Classico DOCG 2020
Milletta Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi Riserva Classico DOCG 2020 © Spaswinefood
This winery was an inviting place to visit.
Cantina Sartarelli, Le Marche © Spaswinefood
Taking a Closer Look, Cantina Sartarelli © Spaswinefood
Besides taking in the vineyards views the local architecture of the winery buildings also captured our attention.
I always welcomed taking in the winery views while touring Le Marche.
After two excellent winery visits we headed to lunch.
This area of Marche has many excellent restaurant options.
After lunch off we went to the next winery.
Marche's Landscape in October © Spaswinefood
I loved not only visiting the wineries but seeing Marche's landscape in early October.
AZ Agricola Pievalta, Maiolati Spontini, Marche © Spaswinefood
3. AZ Agricola Pievalta, Maiolati Spontini
AZ Agricola Pievalta is a biodynamic winery. We stopped by this winery twice but the tasting room was not open; so we did not get to taste their wines.
Despite not being able to taste their we did enjoy touring Le Marche's stunning, hilly landscape.
More on Maiolati Spontini Area
While in the area we also checked out La Locanda Hostaria della Posta. In fact, we went there on the first day we arrived in the area.
It was a lovely late afternoon lunch.
While in Maiolati Spontini we stayed at La Torre Hotel. Out last evening there we decided to enjoy some cheese and crackers with a bottle of Torti Wines Route 66 wine. The hotel staff seeing us setting outside brought us a complementary platter to enjoy.
La Torre Hotel © Spaswinefood
We loved our vine-filled explorations in Le Marche's Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC. Those special welcomes that we received along the way added so much to our travel memories of Italy. We were inspired to visit this region after the 2021 Wine Media Conference (#WMC21) in Eugene, Oregon when we first explored wines from Marche's wine appellations (Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, Rosso Piceno DOC's, and DOCG Pecorino). Upon learning about this wine region and tasting some Le Marche wines we just had to visit. When we did Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC, the primary focus for our visit to Le Marche, was absolutely perfect introduction to making wine discoveries off the beaten path in Italy. Wine travelers who discover this area will be impressed by the charm of its towns and wineries. I so look forward to sharing more on our Italian vine-filled explorations. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Italy at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.
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