Tuesday, November 1, 2022

Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways

Perhaps the story begins with the Greek god of wine, Dionysus bringing some Xinomavro to Goddess Athena at the Parthenon. Recently however, Xinomavro (Ksee NOH mah vroh) that noble Greek red wine has gained attention. This lady in red has been putting on quite a show. To say that the wines produced from this grape are diverse and/or complex is an understatement. This is not just because of the varying terroir but also wine styles. Also, let’s not forget the winemaker who leaves his/her signature upon the wine. Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Maybe Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806-1866) would approve of my love affair with Xinomavro.

Parthenon, Acropolis © Spaswinefood

After a quick visit to the Parthenon, the temple of the Greek Goddess Athena, we were off to Northern Greece. Northern Greece’s Naoussa is home to Xinomavro, the indigenous red grape. It is required by appellation law for Naoussa wines to be made from 100% Xinomavro. The excitement that Xinomavro has been generating recently is largely due to an ongoing experimentation with wine styles. Tara G. Thomas writing for Wine & Spirits notes "Between the new players that have entered the field and the established producers refining their approach, Naoussa is at a crossroads, redefining itself." Moreover, some producers have begun making wines from the international grape varieties, such Merlot and Syrah. These wines are marketed under the Macedonia PGI label. Clearly, there are many exciting developments in Naoussa these days. To add to this excitement there are other regions producing outstanding Xinomavro wines.

The Rich Diversity of Xinomavro Wines
My first introduction to Xinomavro was not from Naoussa but from Tsantali’s Rapsani vineyards. Then during the fall 2015 while in Northern Greece, I was introduced to Rapsani vintages (Rapsani Reserve wines 1997-2005 and 2007-2011)The Tsantali family, which has been producing wines since 1890, acquired the Rapsani Mount Olympus Vineyards in 1991. There the indigenous red grapes Xinomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto are grown for the production of Rapsani, a blend of these three grapes. 
Tsantali’s Rapsani Vineyards © Spaswinefood
That day our hosts also provided the most wonderful collection of local Greek cheeses to go along with the wine tasting. After the wine tasting we had a late lunch in the nearby town.  Months later at the farewell dinner for the #Winelover 4th Anniversary in Athens amongst the special wines poured that evening was a Rapsani Grand Reserve 2009.
Tsantali’s Rapsani Grand Reserve 2009 © Spaswinefood
Yes, it was well worth the wait.
Kitma Kir-Yianni Vineyard © Spaswinefood

On the same trip I also tasted outstanding Xinomavro wines at Boutari, Ktima Kir-Yianni, Averoff and Alpha Estate. Actually Boutari Winery, Stenimahos was my first introduction to the Naoussa wine region
Boutari, 1897 Xinomavro, Single Vineyard Naoussa 2007 © Spaswinefood

Our next stop was Kitma Kir-Yianni where the wine tasting included an amazing diversity of Xinomavro wines from Naoussa and Amyndeon. 

Kitma Kir-Yianni Wines © Spaswinefood

While at the Averoff Winery, Metsovo we were introduced to a Xinomavro from Rountina Vineyards, Naoussa. 

Averoff Winery, Xinomavro Naoussa 2011 © Spaswinefood

What a fabulous first-hand introduction to Naoussa's Wine Road it was. Once you have been introduced to Naoussa’s Xinomavro wines you know why “Xinomavro is on Fire”.

Later when we tasted Alpha Estate in Ampelia there were a number of Xinomavro wines in the lineup. 
Alpha Estate Wines © Spaswinefood

Angelos Iatridis, winemaker and co-proprietor took us on a tour of Alpha's vineyards. Angelos and his partner Makis Mavridis, a viticulturist, established Alpha Estate in the scenic Amyndeon wine region of Northwest Greece.
Posing with Angelos, Alpha Estate © Spaswinefood
Alpha Estate's Xinomavro wines it left me with a lasting impression. The winemaker has definitely left his mark on these wines.

Xinomavro on Fire
Moreover I was fortunate to attend a Masters Class on Xinomavro at #dwcc15 in Plovdiv, Bulgaria. 
Xinomavro on Fire © Spaswinefood

The class given by Yiannis Karakasis and Gregory Michailos included an amazing lineup of Xinomavro wines from Amyndeon, Naoussa, Goumenissa and Rapsani.

First Flight, Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood
Second Flight, Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood
Second Flight (top view), Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood

While some of the wineries were familiar to me a few were new, such as Tastis Estate, Goumenissa. Clearly Northern Greece is home to amazing Xinomavro wines.

Now the question, "Is Xinomavro on Fire?" My answer is YESObviously everyone forms their opinion of Xinomavro wines based on their palate preferences. Nevertheless, there is such an amazing diversity that most will choose one or more to be their favorite(s).

Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. As to counting the ways, for me the journey is to be continued. I know that there will be a Greek goddess/god calling me soon to taste more Xinomavro wines.  I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 


Sharon
February 2016
Athens, Greece
© Spaswinefood

Naoussa, North Greece 2022 © Spaswinefood

NOTE: The above has been adapted my earlier post in Spaswinefood. Check out my most recent post when I meet up with Xinomavro in Greece last June.

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