Thursday, November 10, 2022

How I met Groppello was mostly a rosé affair

For a wine traveler there are some events that top the list. For me being introduced to a new grape variety tops the list. Such is the case with Groppelloan autochthonous (indigenous) red wine grape variety planted primarily in Italy's Lombardy region however, you will find it a number of regions of Italy as wellIn deed the Groppello wines I tasted from Valetènesi, just West of Lake Garda, was mostly a rosé affair. 

Groppello Awaits, Castle Desenzano © Spaswinefood

Often the stories behind how I was introduced to a new wine grape are as interesting as discovering a new grape. 

It was Mostly a Rosé Affair

During the Vignaioli Indipendenti vertical tasting discovery session I was introduced to the following two rose wines produced from Groppello grapes:

Pasini San Giovanni, Rosagreen Valetènesi 2021

Pasini San Giovanni, Rosagreen Valetènesi 2021 © Spaswinefood


Pasini San Giovanni, Letta C Valetènesi 2020

Pasini San Giovanni, Letta C Valetènesi 2020 © Spaswinefood

Indeed these two rosé wines were so delicious.  It was during the tasting of these two rosé wines that I was first introduced to Groppello. I happened to be sitting at a table in the back. One of the gentleman who joined us gave John and I an explanation of the grape. We would later met up with him at the Castle Desenzano dinner.

Our new wine friend explained that Groppello is somewhat similar to Pinot Noir. In fact some have described it as Italy's Pinot Noir. I have learned that Groppello grape clusters are compact, the grapes are small/medium size, with a thin skin. Its name comes from the Italian word Groppo, which means knot, because of its compactness. Groppello red wines tend to have beautiful red ruby color, balanced tannins, smooth and elegant taste.

Dinner at Castle Desenzano

When we arrived at a dinner celebration I recognized a friendly face, Juri Pagani. Juri sat at our table earlier, during a session on independent winemakers (Vignaioli Indipendenti), which included a vertical tasting of the above two rosé wines. It was during our earlier discussion he mentioned there would a Groppello rosé wine that I should taste. Naturally he was happy to share the wine, Costaripa Molmenti Valetènesi 2018.

Costaripa Molmenti Valetènesi 2018 © Spaswinefood

This is a most delicious Valetènesi rosé produced from Groppello grapes.

Valetènesi Rosé in the Glass © Spaswinefood

Yes, indeed this was a special find for me.

Costaripa Molmenti Valetènesi 2018
Costaripa Molmenti Valetènesi 2018 © Spaswinefood

Here is the winery's description of this wine:

Rosè wine that represents the character of a determined Venetian senator, lived in the magic of Moniga, next to the vineyards facing south-east facing the large lake.

Harvest by expert hands, “teardrop vinification” and fermentation and subsequent elevation for over 2 years in old 400lt tonneaux in search of the essence of an innovative and avant-garde thought.

Since 1992, to offer the most forward-looking and refined consumers a Rosè wine from an extraordinary vineyard of over 50 years with the aim of giving value to the stability of color and taste-smell.

On the large lake of Garda, a land of roses since 1896, the personality of Groppello has found its ideal habitat to combine the value of freshness with the pleasure of softness, giving rise to a unique succulence …

The dedicated vineyards are selected only in the foothills exposed to the rising sun.

The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand and in the early morning hours only, when they reach perfect ripeness.

Transported to the cellar, the grapes are stripped of their stalks and the must remains in contact with the skins for the time needed to obtain the maximum qualitative extraction of the initial aromas, fragrances and mineral salts.

The must is separated from the skins by the action of gravity, thus concentrating yields only on the extraction of the noblest part of the grapes in the more traditional “Tear-drop Vinification”.

The Costaripa style has always envisaged the use of small white oak barrels for the fermentation and refinement of its Rosé wines, in order to increase their ability to withstand the passing of time.


Chiaretto (Italian for pale) is the name used for rosé wines produced near Lake Garda's wine regions of Veneto and Lombardy. Elsewhere in Italy, rosé is known as rosato. In the case of Lombardy's Valtènesi, southwest of Lake Garda, the indigenous grape Groppello is used to make Chiaretto. One of my wine media colleagues has called Valetènesi the next rosé region. We had planned to visit Valetènesi on a pre-conference trip. Regrettably, it was not in the cards for us during our visit. I did attend a #WMC22 session on Valetènesi, and encountered some of its wines through the conference.

While at the castle dinner I did taste Groppello red wine from Le Sincette, a small Demeter certified winery. They focus on three main grapes: Groppello Gentile, Marzemino, and Barbera. Their Groppello red wine is pretty awesome. They also produce Chiaretto wines.

Groppello Awaits © Spaswinefood


Unique Grape Varieties, like Groppello, Always Catch My Attention

Call me a romantic for, of all my wine country travels, it is the unique grape varieties, like Groppello, that catch my attention. Whether my wine travels takes me to Bulgaria, Greece, Georgia, Italy, Romania, Serbia, Turkey, or North America, increasingly, I find myself drawn to the indigenous and local grape varieties. Sure, I love an excellent Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, or a fantastic wine blend that we all know so well. Of course, there are amazing rosé wines made with those well known international red grape varieties. Let me not forget the best of bubbles from Champagne and elsewhere. Equally, I love the best of those amazing sweet wines, such as Port, Madiera, and Tokaji. During my wine travels I have observed a growing interest in wines made with native grape varieties. I have seen this where there has been a long tradition of working with indigenous grapes. Countries, where there is a long tradition of working with indigenous grapes, are grape-fully inspiring to me.


In conclusion how I met Groppello was mostly a rosé affair. I invite you to join me in our wine travels in Italy and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing our vine-filled explorations in Italy. 


CHEERS!


Sharon 
October 2022
Lake Garda, Italy 
© Spaswinefood

Lake Garda, Lombardy, Italy © Spaswinefood

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