Dr. Konstantin Frank Estate Vineyard, Keuka Lake © Spaswinefood
Dr. Konstantin Frank: Pioneers Grape Growing in the Finger Lakes
Dr. Frank, born in Odessa, Ukraine (once part of the Russian Empire), received his PhD in viticulture from the Odessa Polytechnic Institute. His research focused on techniques for growing Vitis vinifera in a cold climate. After managing a large state-owned vineyard in Soviet Georgia, he came to the United States in 1951. He took a job as a dishwasher in New York City. In 1953 he moved with his family to the Cornell University Geneva Experiment Station. Not long after he would pioneer wine grape growing in the Finger Lakes.
Earlier unsuccessful attempts to plant "Vitis vinifera" varieties in the northern latitudes of North America were blamed on the cold weather. Frank’s extensive experience growing European grapes in the Ukraine, at below freezing temperatures, meant he knew it would be possible using the grafting techniques that he developed. Initially Frank's ideas were ridiculed. No one thought that European wine grapes would grow in Upstate New York. So in 1958 Frank bought a plot of land on the west side of Keuka Lake. His first vintage, a Trockenbeerenauslese Johannisberg Riesling made from botrytized grapes, was released in 1962. This wine region has since become well known for its world class Riesling. Because of Frank's pioneering efforts these days there is much to explore along the Finger Lakes Wine Trails.
Off to Keuka Lake Wine Trail
Early one summer morning we headed to Keuka Lake, stopping for breakfast at the Hall Diner.
Breakfasting, Hall Diner © Spaswinefood
Relaxing on the veranda of the Hall Diner over breakfast was the perfect way to begin the day.
A Perfect Start to the Day, Hall Diner © Spaswinefood
Traveling to Keuka Lake I still vividly remembered my first visit to the Finger Lakes, August of 2015. Because I discovered so many good things about the wine region, I just had to return. Once you put some Finger Lakes wine in your glass it is hard to resist wanting to learn more about this wine region.
Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area)
The Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area) is centered around eleven glacial lakes, with the majority of vineyards near Canandaigua Lake, Cayuga Lake, Keuka Lake and Seneca Lake.
Dr. Konstantin Frank Estate Vineyard, Finger Lakes AVA © Spaswinefood
Each of these areas have been described as having unique viticultural characteristics, which result in wines with distinct flavor profiles. This east coast wine region has often been compared to Germany's Rhine region because of the similarity in growing conditions. The Finger Lakes AVA , established in 1982, is home to over 100 wineries. Besides Riesling, the Finger Lakes also produces Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, as well as several French-American and native varieties. During my Finger Lakes visits my focus has been on sampling Riesling wines from Cayuga Lake, Seneca Lake and Keuka Lake. Let's take a close look at Keuka Lake where Dr. Frank's winery is located. Keuka Lake Wine Trail: Then and Now
Nothing compares to an escape to wine country for a mystery dinner hosted by local Keuka Lake wineries. I still remember that August 2015 evening when the Keuka Lake Wine Trail was celebrating its 30th Anniversary. Our outing took place at Manor House. All eight Keuka Lake Wine Trail members (Barrington Cellars, Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars, Heron Hill Winery, Hunt Country Vineyards, Keuka Spring Vineyards, McGregor Vineyard, Ravines Wine Cellars, and Vineyard View Winery) participated in the event. The evening began with tasting a Riesling wine from each of the wineries.
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Keuka Lake Riesling Showcase, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood
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Dinner was served on the Manor House veranda, with stunning views of Keuka Lake. Celebrity Chef Brud Holland used locally sourced, seasonal ingredients to prepare dinner. There at Manor House overlooking Keuka Lake this Finger Lakes wine and food event perfectly captured the essence of this beautiful wine country setting. Even though we would get to taste other wines over dinner, for me it was the Riesling wines that captured my attention.
During my summer 2021 visit we stopped by Dr. Frank's who not only pioneered wine making in the Finger Lakes but did some much more. Frank, a scientist at heart, after establishing his winery, he planted over sixty different varieties. His efforts would prove to the world that the eastern United States could grow the noble European vinifera grape varieties. After establishing his reputation, he was a consultant to the Gold Seal Winery, a historic winery complex located near Hammondsport in Steuben County, New York, and established a Vitis vinifera grape nursery.
I just had to visit, I had heard so much about Dr Frank and his winery that I could not leave the Finger Lakes without visiting. I was not disappointed. These days Dr. Franks legacy is cherished in New York. After all, he led the way for Finger Lakes to grow the European grape varieties. In November 2001, Konstantin Frank was inducted into the Wine Spectator Hall of Fame for his outstanding achievements in the field of viticulture.
Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, Keuka Lake
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Keuka Lake © Spaswinefood
Yes, the winery, founded in 1962, was established before the Finger Lakes AVA (1982). The winery is now 4th generation, with his great grand-daughter, Meaghan becoming an integral part of the team. It was Konstantin's son, Willy Frank, who became President after his father's death. He surprised some in the industry by introducing sparkling wines made in the traditional methode champenoise technique. He purchased a historic field stone house, then restored it into a sparkling winery and named it Chateau Frank. In 1993, Fred Frank, Konstantin's grandson, succeeded his father as President of Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars. These days great grand-daughter Meaghan Frank, Vice-President is now part of what makes this family winery great.
Let's take a look at the wines. During my visit I tasted a number of Rieslings.
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Riesling Nature 2018
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Riesling Nature 2018 © Spaswinefood
I loved this wine!
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Eugenia Dry Riesling 2019
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Eugenia Dry Riesling 2019 © Spaswinefood
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Riesling 2019
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Riesling 2019 © Spaswinefood
Finger Lakes Riesling wines come in different styles (still, sparkling and ice wine), with a range in sweetness levels (from sweet to dry). There is a Finger Lakes Riesling for every palate. Besides tasting Riesling I tasted other cold climate white wines, such as Grürztraminer and Grüner Veltliner.
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Semi-Dry Winter Ferment Grürztraminer 2020
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Semi-Dry Winter Ferment Grürztraminer 2020 © Spaswinefood
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Grüner Veltliner 2019
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Grüner Veltliner 2019 © Spaswinefood
Grüner Veltliner does well in the Finger Lakes.
Let me not forget the other sparkling wines. I enjoyed tasting their 2017 Blanc de Noir.
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Blanc de Noir 2017
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Blanc de Noir 2017 © Spaswinefood
Yes, Dr. Frank's does other sparkling wines, such as Blanc de Noir, well. The winery has been making traditional-method sparkling wines for over 35 years. Moreover Rosé wines are not neglected.
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Rosé 2020
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Rosé 2020 © Spaswinefood
For sure this is a most delightful rosé wine. Moreover, the story on the back of the bottle caught my attention.
Dr. Konstantin Frank's Story © Spaswinefood
The story on the back of the bottle is inspiring.
Given Dr. Frank's background it is not surprising that they grow Rkatsiteli, an ancient white grape variety native to the Republic of Georgia, the oldest wine-producing region on earth. It does well in the Finger Lakes given the similar growing conditions. I have been most fortunate to have had this wine in Georgia and Eastern Europe where it is commonly made as a qvevri, or orange wine style.
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Rkatsiteli 2020 © Spaswinefood
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