Italy: Le Marche wine inspires adventures

Our Grand Canyon trip included a special bottle of wine, which led us to start planning for a Le Marche (pronounced Markay) wine journey. These days we are dreaming about exploring Italy's Le Marche wine region. We were inspired by a session at the 2021 Wine Media Conference (#WMC21) on Le Marche that featured Velenosivini wines. After learning about this wine region and tasting some Le Marche wines it makes us want to visit soon. Until we do let's begin a virtual adventure. 

Roggio Del Filare, Rosso Picino D.O.C. Superioré © Spaswinefood

Enjoying Le Marche Wine at the South Rim, Grand Canyon © Spaswinefood

Off the Wine Road 

Does where you drink wine make a difference? For sure drinking a Le Marche wine at edge of the Grand Canyon was an ideal setting. It was also perfect timing for reflecting on an earlier tasting of Le Marche wines.

Exploring Le Marche Wines, #WMC21 © Spaswinefood

For sure tasting these wines makes you want to know more about this Italian wine region.

Italy's Marche Wine Country

Le Marche wine region is on the eastern side of central Italy. It is considered to be Italy’s coastal gem. Winemaking in Le Marche dates back thousands of years, being influenced by Etruscans, Romans and Lombards. While Le Marche is best known for its white wines Trebbiano and Verdiccho, it is also home to some big quality reds. Some of Italy’s finest Marche wines comes from Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes. 

Why Le Marche, Italy © Spaswinefood

While sometimes overshadowed by its neighbors Abruzzo to the south, and Umbria and Tuscany to the west, the Le Marche wine region produces great wines. It is home to 15 DOCs and 5 DOCGs.

Marche Wine Appellations © Spaswinefood

During #WMC21 we explored wines from Marche's wine appellations of Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, and Rosso Piceno DOC's, and DOCG Pecorino. 

Tasting Marche Wines 

Earlier during the session conference attendees were introduced to wines by Velenosivini. Let's take a closer look at these Le Marche wines. The four Velenosi Ascoli Piceno wines tasted were:

1. Verdicchio Querciantica, Dei Castilli Di Jesi DOC Classico

Verdicchio Querciantica, Dei Castilli Di Jesi DOC Classico © Spaswinefood

Verdicchio ripens slowly, it is high in tartaric acid, and does well with aging in oak. This very versatile grape  allows it to be made in many styles (dry, sweet and sparkling). It is a complex wine, characterized by aromas of fruit - peach, lemon, apple, pear, and yellow plums; floral- acacia, hawthorn, chamomile, white flower; herbs- dill, thyme, anise, basil, coriander; terry- almond, honey, beeswax, lees, Unami; minerals - iodine, flint, sea spray, petrol.  While this wine is delightful young it can age, allowing for complexity, harmony and depth as it matures.

The following slide describes Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC:

Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi DOC © Spaswinefood

2. Villa Angela, Offida DOCG Pecorino

Villa Angela, Offida DOCG Pecorino © Spaswinefood

Pecorino, white grape variety, grows in the Marche, Abruzzo, Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio regions of Italy. Pecorino is a very old variety. Ampelographers believe that the grape is likely native to Marche. It likely originated as a wild grapevine growing in the Sibillini Mountains, and later was domesticated for wine production. This once nearly extinct grapes has been under going a revival.

Pecorino grapes ripen early. It has been described as straw yellow, having good structure, high acidity, dry with mineral characteristics and a salty undertone. This medium body wine can have fruity aromas of apple, pear, candied orange, and tropical fruit, herbal aromas (sage, mint and thyme), and a floral bouquet (such as acacia, jasmine and linden flowers). 

How Did Pecorino Wine Get Its Name?

Historically this grape has ties to local shepherds (Pecora is Italian for sheep). There are interesting stories of how the grape got its name. It is thought that sheep nibbled on these grapes as the shepherds took care of their flock. Given that Pecorino is also a name for a cheese, one version of the story is - the shepherds compensated the vineyard owners for the grapes that the sheep ate with Pecorino cheese. Yes, Pecorino is a type of cheese. Another explanation is the shape of the grape bunches resembles a sheep's head.

Pecorino is one of the most common grape varieties in Le Marche. It is considered to be one of Italy's wine success stories of 21st century. Maybe native to Sibling Mountain area. It was abandoned and rediscovered at Arquata. Officially recognized as a wine in 1990, DOC in 2001, and DOCG in 2011.

DOCG Pecorino, Le Marche © Spaswinefood

Le Marche's Offida Pecorino DOCG requires that for Pecorino to be made as a varietal it has to make up at least 85% of the blend, with other local, non-aromatic grapes, being permitted for the remainder.

3. Querciantica Lacrima Di Morro DOC

Querciantica Lacrima Di Morro DOC © Spaswinefood

Lacrima means tear in Italian. The grape gets its name because when the grape ripens it has a thin skin, which can easily break. Given its skin breaks easily this makes it vulnerable to pests and disease. For that and other reasons it was almost abandoned, with it being rescued in 1980's and made a DOC in 1985. The characteristics of this aromatic variety include; fruit (black cherry, dark berry); floral (violets, lavender and rose buds); and spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger). This wine has an intense ruby red color with violet hues. On palette the wine is dry with medium tannins and lingering rich flavors. 

The following slide describes Lacrima Di Morro d'Alba DOC:

Lacrima Di Morro d'Alba DOC © Spaswinefood

 

4. Roggio Del Filare, Rosso Piceno DOC Superioré 2017

Roggio Del Filare, Rosso Piceno DOC Superioré © Spaswinefood

Rosso Piceno DOC Superioré © Spaswinefood

This Roggio Del Filare wine is a bright ruby red wine with slight garnet hues. It is made using 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese grapes. Obviously the characteristics of this Roggio Del Filare wine is influenced by the grapes that are used to make it.  Now for a brief look at the characteristics of Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes. 

Characteristics of Montepulciano and Sangiovese Grapes © Spaswinefood

The wine has an  intense bouquet of ripe plums and cherries, with spices and floral nuances. On the palette this full bodied wine has strong texture, rounded tannins, with a warm, lingering velvety pulp and spicy finish.

The following slide summarizes the Rosso Picino Superioré DOC:

Rosso Picino Superioré DOC © Spaswinefood

Let's make plans to go to Italy's Le Marche wine country. For sure the Wine Media session entitled Le Marche, the "new Tuscany" in Central Italy certainly was a hit. It took us to Italy's Marche wine country to learn about its inviting wines. We have since discovered that not only are there great wines but some of Italy's best cheeses are in Le Marche. Indeed Le Marche wine inspires adventures. We invite you to join us in future wine adventures in Italy and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

CHEERS!

Sharon & John

August 2021

Grand Canyon, Arizona

© Spaswinefood

Why Visit Le Marche © Spaswinefood

Follow me on Twitter and Facebook

Italy: Abruzzo's Pecorino is on my list

When the Charming Taste of Europe presented Wines of Abruzzo, at one of its two Discovery Sessions at the 2021 Wine Media Conference (#WMC21), I had to go. The session I attended focused on Pecorino, a wine that I had encountered on a few occasions. It was the perfect opportunity for me to learn about this grape variety; hence I am indeed excited to share what I learned about Abruzzo's Pecorino wine.

Abruzzo's  Pecorino Wines © Spaswinefood

True Abruzzo is best known for Montepulciano (red grape), and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (white grape) however, lesser known varieties like Passeribna, Cococciola, and Pecorino are now getting the attention they deserve. 

Abruzzo Grape Varieties © Spaswinefood

Pecorino is the wine to get to know! Let's take a look.

Pecorino

This white grape variety, grows in the Abruzzo, Marche, Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio regions of Italy. While the exact birthplace of Pecorino is unknown it thrives in Abruzzo. Pecorino is a very old variety. Ampelographers believe that the grape is likely native to Marche (borders on Abruzzo on the north). It likely originated as a wild grapevine growing in the Sibillini Mountains, and later was domesticated for wine production. This once nearly extinct grapes has been under going a revival.

Pecorino grapes ripen early. The wine has been described as straw yellow, having good structure, high acidity, dry with mineral characteristics and a salty undertone. This medium body wine can have fruity aromas of apple, pear, candied orange, and tropical fruit, herbal aromas (sage, mint and thyme), and a floral bouquet (such as acacia, jasmine and linden flowers). 

Characteristics of Pecorino © Spaswinefood

I am happy to report that this nearly extinct indigenous grape is now getting the attention it deserves.

How Pecorino Got Its Name

Historically this grape has ties to local shepherds.  In fact Pecora is Italian for sheep. There are interesting stories of how the grape got its name. It is thought that sheep nibbled on these grapes as the shepherds took care of their flock. Given that Pecorino is also a name for a cheese, one version of the story is - the shepherds compensated the vineyard owners for the grapes that the sheep ate with Pecorino cheese. Yes, Pecorino is a type of cheese. Another explanation is the shape of the grape bunches resembles a sheep's head.

One can imagine shepherds tending to the sheep and walking them by the vineyards.

Sheep Herding Abruzzo Wines

The story of how the grape got its name is intriguing however, what is interesting to me is the overall positive reaction this wine got from the attendees. Many of us immediately fell in love with the wines shared. It appears that Pecorino was forgotten until recently when it was revived by local winemakers. For sure Abruzzo's Pecorino Wines are amongst Italy’s hidden gems.

Abruzzo Wines, The Charming Taste of Europe © Spaswinefood

Where is Abruzzo?

Wine lovers will soon discover that Abruzzo, one of the oldest wine regions, is a mountainous coastal region on the Adriatic Sea. It is bordered by Molise to south, Marche to the north and Lazio to the west. This wine region is well worth a scenic two hour drive from Rome.

Abruzzo Wine Region, Italy © Spaswinefood

Abruzzo is a fascinating wine region. The Consortium for the Protection of Abruzzo Wines (Consorzio di Tutela dei Vini d’Abruzzo) was established in 2002. It protects wines from Controlled Designation of Origin, such as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, Abruzzo DOC, Villamagna DOC and, it also protects wines with a Typical Geographical Indication. It is a unique region in Europe. Abruzzo has more than 30% of the territory protected by four parks (three national and one regional), and a dozen nature reserves and protected areas.

Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Wines

Abruzzo viticulture in the last decades has made a leap forward in terms of qualitative growth.  This is due to a new generation of producers constant and pervasive work, focused on the enhancement of its most important indigenous grape varieties, like Pecorino. This clearly shows in the Abruzzo DOC Pecorino wines I tasted.

Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Wines © Spaswinefood

Tasting Abruzzo's Pecorino Wines

We tasted the following four Abruzzo DOC Pecorino wines:

1. Barone di Valforti, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino

Barone di Valforti, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino © Spaswinefood

US Importer: More Than Grapes LLC

2. Torre Dei Beati, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino

Torre Dei Beati, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino © Spaswinefood 

US Importer: Casa Bruno Wines

3. Agricosimo Pecorino Organic, Abruzzo DOC

Agricosimo Pecorino Organic, Abruzzo DOC © Spaswinefood

US Importer: Prosapore LLC

4. La Carine del Colle Aimé, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore 2020

La Carine del Colle Aimé, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore 2020 Abruzzo Wines

What delight it was to taste these Abruzzo DOC Pecorino wines. Abruzzo's Pecorino wines were a big hit at our session.

Tasting Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Wines © Spaswinefood

This session on Pecorino certainly inspired me and others at the session to make plans to visit Abruzzo. I was very pleased to have discovered these wines at the 2021 Wine Media Conference (#WMC2021). Indeed Pecorino is the wine to get to know! If you have yet to discover Abruzzo's Pecorino please do. You can connect with the Consorzio on Instagram and Facebook!  I invite you to join me in Italy and elsewhere in the sharing of these adventures at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

CHEERS!!

Sharon

August 2021

Eugene, Oregon

© Spaswinefood

The Charming Taste of Europe, Abruzzo Session #WMC21 © Spaswinefood

Follow me on Twitter and Facebook

NOTE: Abruzzo Wines is part of the mission of The Charming Taste of Europe, co-funded by the European Union. Its promotional activities are focused on increasing the awareness of the merits and quality standards of select European wines and fresh fruits in the competitive markets of the United States of America and Canada. The project includes promoting the Consortium for the Protection of Wines of Abruzzo. These superb high quality Italian wines are produced with the artistry of agricultural traditions. Hence this campaign will awaken the senses and a new culinary consciousness by connecting food, cultures, and territories by bringing European charm into the lives of many.

New York's Finger Lakes Wine Trails: Dr. Frank Wines tops my list

My summer 2021 return to New York's Finger Lakes included a visit to Dr. Frank's winery, overlooking Keuka Lake. When you visit this winery you discover, not only why Finger Lakes Wine Country is so special but also, its history. It is because of the effort of pioneers, such as Konstantin Frank that there are now over 100 Finger Lakes wineries, producing wines from Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, as well as French-American and native grape varieties. 

Dr. Konstantin Frank Estate Vineyard, Keuka Lake © Spaswinefood

Dr. Konstantin Frank: Pioneers Grape Growing in the Finger Lakes

Dr. Frank, born in Odessa, Ukraine (once part of the Russian Empire), received his PhD in viticulture from the Odessa Polytechnic Institute. His research focused on techniques for growing Vitis vinifera in a cold climate. After managing a large state-owned vineyard in Soviet Georgia, he came to the United States in 1951. He took a job as a dishwasher in New York City. In 1953 he moved with his family to the Cornell University Geneva Experiment Station. Not long after he would pioneer wine grape growing in the Finger Lakes.

Earlier unsuccessful attempts to plant "Vitis vinifera" varieties in the northern latitudes of North America were blamed on the cold weather. Frank’s extensive experience growing European grapes in the Ukraine, at below freezing temperatures, meant he knew it would be possible using the grafting techniques that he developed. Initially Frank's ideas were ridiculed. No one thought that European wine grapes would grow in Upstate New York. So in 1958 Frank bought a plot of land on the west side of Keuka Lake. His first vintage, a Trockenbeerenauslese Johannisberg Riesling made from botrytized grapes, was released in 1962. This wine region has since become well known for its world class Riesling. Because of Frank's pioneering efforts these days there is much to explore along the Finger Lakes Wine Trails.

Off to Keuka Lake Wine Trail

Early one summer morning we headed to Keuka Lake, stopping for breakfast at the Hall Diner.

Breakfasting, Hall Diner © Spaswinefood

Relaxing on the veranda of the Hall Diner over breakfast was the perfect way to begin the day.

A Perfect Start to the Day, Hall Diner © Spaswinefood

Traveling to Keuka Lake I still vividly remembered my first visit to the Finger Lakes, August of 2015. Because I discovered so many good things about the wine region, I just had to return. Once you put some Finger Lakes wine in your glass it is hard to resist wanting to learn more about this wine region. 

Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area)
The Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area) is centered around eleven glacial lakes, with the majority of vineyards near Canandaigua Lake, Cayuga Lake, Keuka Lake and Seneca Lake. 

Dr. Konstantin Frank Estate Vineyard, Finger Lakes AVA © Spaswinefood

Each of these areas have been described as having unique viticultural characteristics, which result in wines with distinct flavor profiles. This east coast wine region has often been compared to Germany's Rhine region because of the similarity in growing conditions. The Finger Lakes AVA , established in 1982, is home to over 100 wineries. Besides Riesling, the Finger Lakes also produces Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, as well as several French-American and native varieties. During my Finger Lakes visits my focus has been on sampling Riesling wines from Cayuga Lake, Seneca Lake and Keuka Lake. Let's take a close look at Keuka Lake where Dr. Frank's winery is located.

Keuka Lake Wine Trail: Then and Now
Nothing compares to an escape to wine country for a mystery dinner hosted by local Keuka Lake wineries. I still remember that August 2015 evening when the Keuka Lake Wine Trail was celebrating its 30th Anniversary. Our outing took place at Manor House. All eight Keuka Lake Wine Trail members (Barrington Cellars, Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars, Heron Hill Winery, Hunt Country Vineyards, Keuka Spring Vineyards, McGregor Vineyard, Ravines Wine Cellars, and Vineyard View Winery) participated in the event. The evening began with tasting a Riesling wine from each of the wineries.

Keuka Lake Riesling Showcase, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

Dinner was served on the Manor House veranda, with stunning views of Keuka Lake. Celebrity Chef Brud Holland used locally sourced, seasonal ingredients to prepare dinner. There at Manor House overlooking Keuka Lake this Finger Lakes wine and food event perfectly captured the essence of this beautiful wine country setting. Even though we would get to taste other wines over dinner, for me it was the Riesling wines that captured my attention.

During my summer 2021 visit we stopped by Dr. Frank's who not only pioneered wine making in the Finger Lakes but did some much more. Frank, a scientist at heart, after establishing his winery, he planted over sixty different varieties. His efforts would prove to the world that the eastern United States could grow the noble European vinifera grape varieties. After establishing his reputation, he was a consultant to the Gold Seal Winery, a historic winery complex located near Hammondsport in Steuben County, New York, and established a Vitis vinifera grape nursery. 

I just had to visit, I had heard so much about Dr Frank and his winery that I could not leave the Finger Lakes without visiting. I was not disappointed. These days Dr. Franks legacy is cherished in New York. After all, he led the way for Finger Lakes to grow the European grape varieties. In November 2001, Konstantin Frank was inducted into the Wine Spectator Hall of Fame for his outstanding achievements in the field of viticulture.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, Keuka Lake

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Keuka Lake © Spaswinefood

Yes, the winery, founded in 1962, was established before the Finger Lakes AVA (1982). The winery is now 4th generation, with his great grand-daughter, Meaghan becoming an integral part of the team.  It was Konstantin's son, Willy Frank, who became President after his father's death. He surprised some in the industry by introducing sparkling wines made in the traditional methode champenoise technique. He purchased a historic field stone house, then restored it into a sparkling winery and named it Chateau Frank. In 1993, Fred Frank, Konstantin's grandson, succeeded his father as President of Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars. These days great grand-daughter Meaghan Frank, Vice-President is now part of what makes this family winery great.

Let's take a look at the wines. During my visit I tasted a number of Rieslings.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Riesling Nature 2018

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Riesling Nature 2018 © Spaswinefood

I loved this wine!

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Eugenia Dry Riesling 2019 

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Eugenia Dry Riesling 2019 © Spaswinefood

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Riesling 2019

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Riesling 2019 © Spaswinefood

Finger Lakes Riesling wines come in different styles (still, sparkling and ice wine), with a range in sweetness levels (from sweet to dry). There is a Finger Lakes Riesling for every palate. Besides tasting Riesling I tasted other cold climate white wines, such as Grürztraminer and Grüner Veltliner.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Semi-Dry Winter Ferment Grürztraminer 2020

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Semi-Dry Winter Ferment Grürztraminer 2020 © Spaswinefood

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Grüner Veltliner 2019

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Grüner Veltliner 2019 © Spaswinefood

Grüner Veltliner does well in the Finger Lakes.

Let me not forget the other sparkling wines. I enjoyed tasting their 2017 Blanc de Noir.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Blanc de Noir 2017

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Blanc de Noir 2017 © Spaswinefood

Yes, Dr. Frank's does other sparkling wines, such as Blanc de Noir, well.  The winery has been making traditional-method sparkling wines for over 35 years. Moreover Rosé wines are not neglected.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Rosé 2020

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Rosé 2020 © Spaswinefood

For sure this is a most delightful rosé wine. Moreover, the story on the back of the bottle caught my attention.

Dr. Konstantin Frank's Story © Spaswinefood

The story on the back of the bottle is inspiring.

Given Dr. Frank's background it is not surprising that they grow Rkatsiteli, an ancient white grape variety native to the Republic of Georgia, the oldest wine-producing region on earth. It does well in the Finger Lakes given the similar growing conditions. I have been most fortunate to have had this wine in Georgia and Eastern Europe where it is commonly made as a qvevri, or orange wine style.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Rkatsiteli 2020 © Spaswinefood

Besides Riesling, sparkling wines, and cold climtae whites the winery does reds as well. During my visit amongst the red wines that I tasted was a Merlot and Amur.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Merlot 2018 

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Merlot 2018 © Spaswinefood

Given the winery's history of experimenting with grape varieties it is not surprising to discover that they continue to push boundaries by making Amur wine. The Amur grape (Vitis amurensis) is a species of grape native to the Asia. It gets its name comes from the Amur Valley in Russia and China. 

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Amur 2017 © Spaswinefood

I was delighted to have a first hand experience at Dr. Frank's winery. Put this winery on the must visit list. Let the history and the uniqueness of Dr. Frank Wines inspire you. Dr. Frank's influence on today's wine making extends throughout the Finger Lakes and beyond.

Wine Tasting, Dr. Konstantin Frank © Spaswinefood

Your Wine Country Escape to the Fingers Lakes
Before you plan a trip to the Finger Lakes checkout these sources:
1. Finger Lakes Wine Country,
2. Finger Lakes Wine Alliance,
3. Finger Lakes Tourist Alliance, and
4. Finger Lakes Wine.

During my 2021 visit we soon discovered that Dr. Frank's wines are amazing. Dr. Frank's Wines is what is so very special about this wine region. Put some Dr. Frank's wine in you glass; you will experience Finger Lakes Wine Country. It is not just the wines but the story behind the wines. For sure, both my 2015 and 2021 visits allowed me to discover what is special about the Finger Lakes. I invite you to join me in my travels in the Finger Lakes and elsewhere in the sharing of these adventures at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on  Twitter and Facebook. 

CHEERS!!

Sharon

Summer 2021

Finger Lakes, New York

© Spaswinefood

Finger Lakes, New York © Spaswinefood

Follow me on Twitter and Facebook