Off to Ávila on a cultural, historical and gastronomical inquiry

Madrid is a great base for day trips to nearby cities, like Ávila, which is known for its rich cultural and historical heritage. Last April while in Madrid we took a day trip to Ávila, about an hour's drive to the northwest of Madrid. The countryside surrounding this northwestern city consists of rolling hills. It is the capital of Ávila province and at 1,131 meters elevation it is the highest provincial capital in Spain. Off we went to Ávila on a cultural, historical and gastronomical adventure.

Walls of Ávila © Spaswinefood

Ávila was founded in the 11th century. They built a wall around the city to protect this Spanish territory from the Moors. Ávila is located in the autonomous community of Castile and León (Castile y León), which was created in 1983 by grouping the provinces of León, Zamora, Salamanca (traditionally were the León region), Ávila, Burgos, Palencia, Segovia, Soria and Valladolid (the Old Castile region). The  Castile and León region contains eleven World Heritage Sites, making it (along with Italy's Lombardia) the region with most UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Welcome to Ávila 

Ávila was awarded the World Heritage designation in 1985 by the UNESCO. It is best known for its intact medieval city walls, with over 80 crenelated, semicircular towers and nine gates, including the arched El Alcázar, on the eastern side. The Puerta del Alcazar (Gate of the Fortress) is one of the gates into the old city, through the Walls of Ávila. Avila's city walls are the main symbol of the province. 

Closer Look at the Walls of Ávila © Spaswinefood

Obviously, we came to visit the historic center of Ávila, the old city behind the walls.

Entrance to the Walled City of Ávila © Spaswinefood

Cathedral de Ávila © Spaswinefood

During our walk around historic Ávila we enjoyed getting to discover a little of its rich history.

Touring Ávila © Spaswinefood

On Tour: Ávila © Spaswinefood

Touring Historic Ávila © Spaswinefood

The main plaza inside the walls is called Plaza del Ayuntamiento, or El Chico.

Plaza Mayo: El Chico © Spaswinefood

While exploring Ávila I sighted some murals on the buildings, which showcased some of the city's history.

Mural, Avila© Spaswinefood

Mural of a Medieval Horseman, Ávila © Spaswinefood

During our walkabout we stopped by the Palacio de los Verdugo on Calle Lope Núñez, near the Gate of San Vicente. 

Palacio de los Verdugo © Spaswinefood

Signage for Palacio de los Verdugo © Spaswinefood

Besides Ávila being known for its cultural heritage, it  is also a Smart Heritage city.

Saint Vincente Bascilica © Spaswinefood

Ávila has plenty of cultural and historical information to discover.

Ávila Walls © Spaswinefood

While I was impressed by this city I still wanted insights into its gastronomic offers. For visitors who would like to check out the wine and food scene Ávila is also worthy. 

Gastronomy of Ávila and Castile y León 

While Ávila is not known for its wines you can find wineries and wine tourism experiences in the broader Castile and León region, where Ávila is located. The Castile y León wine region has much to offer. Here red wines rule, with the Tempranillo grape variety (various synonyms Tinta del Pais, Tinto de Toro and Tinto Fino) being unquestionably the king. It is the grape behind all of the region's finest wines except Bierzo, which is produced from Mencia, a red wine grape native to the northwest area of Spain. The French varieties grown here include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Its white wines, are produced mainly from the white grapes Verdejo and Viura. While the region produces far fewer white wines than the reds, they are only marginally less prestigious. Castilla y Léon is one of the most important wine regions in Spain, which combines notable DOs (Denominaciones de Origen) such as Ribera del Duero, Toro, Rueda and Bierzo. Its Vino de la Tierra  covers the entire wine region. This classification has much less restrictive regulations, and a wide range of grape varieties are permitted, which also gives winemakers a chance to work on less-traditional wine styles. Clearly, this overall wine region has much to offer.

Ávila's cuisine has its roots in local products, lots of meats and excellent pulses (edible seeds of plants in the legume family). Its cuisine shows strong Muslim, Hebrew and Christian influences. Roasts and veal steaks are only a few of the dishes that make up the cuisine of this province. Meat loving foodies might want to try "El chuletón de Ávila". Chuletón (a big piece of meat) is a meat plate typical of Ávila province for which this area is know. You will also find meat products sold in the shops. If you are looking for something sweet you will find wonderful cakes and pastries. It is especially renowned for "yemas de Santa Teresa" (a sweet made with egg yolk and sugar). If you are looking to enjoy a drink with tapas, you may even get a complementary tapa served with a drink in this town.

We stayed in Central Madrid, which was the perfect location for exploring nearby cities. While a day trip to Ávila was a great introduction I would recommend a longer visit of one or two nights to enjoy its gastronomy, and have more time for cultural and historical explorations.

Off to Explore Behind the Ávila Walls © Spaswinefood

Without a doubt a day trip to check out Ávila's historical sites while doing some preliminary gastronomic explorations are a perfect mix. It is certainly the perfect place for a combo historical and culinary adventure. Ávila is packed with historical sites, restaurants, and there is also plenty of Spanish wine to discover. I invite you to join me in my wine travel adventures in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on Bluesky and Facebook. 

CHEERS! 

Sharon
April 2025
Ávila, Spain

© Spaswinefood

Central Madrid, Spain © Spaswinefood

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Slovenia's Vipava Valley: Loved the wine tasting at Darovi Vipavske in Vipavski Križ

Darovi Vipavske tasting room in Vipavski Križ, a scenic town on a hill near Ajdovščina in Slovenia's Vipava Valley was our second wine stop. Shortly after we arrived in Ljubljana, Slovenia I booked a Vipava Valley wine tour with Wine Express Tours. I was excited to visit the Vipava Valley (Vipavska Dolina), a wine region in Slovenia's western Primorski region, which has become known as one of the country's most successful viticultural areas. 

Arriving in Vipavski Križ, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

Vipavski Križ, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

Exploring Vipavski Križ, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Vipavski Križ, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

Earlier, when we met at our pickup point in Ljubljana we joined four women from Finland. It was about a one and half hour drive to the Vipava Valley from Ljubljana. Our van driver who was also the tour leader gave us an overview of what to expect. As we drove to the wine valley our guide explained the major influences on the various regions of Slovenia. Along the way he would also pointed out significant sites, etc. It was a very relaxing spring time drive to the Vipava Valley; and where inspiring wine adventures waited for us.

Welcome to Darovi Vipavske Tasting Room, Vipavski Križ

After an exploratory walk, we were off to taste wines. I was excited to discover Darovi Vipavske tasting room in Vipavski Križ, a medieval town. One website described the town as the second smallest in the world. I have no idea if this description is accurate (second smallest town in the world) however, it is definitely a lovely small town. This is very inviting place, just check out its fascinating history and wine events (such as the Zelen Wine Festivall) held here throughout the year. 

The scenic hillside town will catch your eye from afar. Perched proudly on a hill near Ajdovščina, Vipavski Križ used to be a very important town and the centre of the valley for centuries. The tiny, picture-book town with an impressive wall is one of the finest monuments of cultural history in the country.

There are some places that catch your immediate attention, and Vipavski Križ is one of those.

Vipavski Križ, Vipava Valley, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

Upon arrival we walked around the village, before stopping by Darovi Vipavske (a wine shop, wine bar, bistro, tasting room, and shop for local products).

Arriving at Darovi Vipavske © Spaswinefood

Once inside we sat around a wine barrel and explored Vipava Valley wines with Mirjana.  I so enjoyed exploring wines made with indigenous Slovenian grapes, like Pinela and Zelen. In addition, we tasted Vipava Valley orange and amphora wines from different producers.

Wine Tasting, Darovi Vipavske © Spaswinefood

To go along with the wines we were served very tasty food platters.

Food Platters, Darovi Vipavske © Spaswinefood

I tasted an exciting lineup of Slovenia wines produced from indigenous grapes, and orange and amphora wines. In case you are wondering what are orange and amphora wines. Both of these wines are derived from ancient traditions. In the case of orange wine, sometimes called amber wine, it is a style of wine that is produced from white grapes. Specifically during the fermentation process the pressed grape juice has contact with skin and seeds. On the other hand amphora wine, is a wine fermented or aged in a clay vessel, such as a qvevri. This process can be used for any type of wine.

Yes, there was on display Simon Wolfe's book, The Amber Revolution, and we were told he visited there.

Memories of Darovi Vipavske © Spaswinefood

Amongst the wines we tasted there were a number of wines produced from Zelen, the indigenous grape, that I referenced earlier in this article. For example, Furlan, Zelen, Vipavska Dolina 2023 (see Vivino) 

Furlan, Zelen, Vipavska Dolina 2023

Furlan, Zelen, Vipavska Dolina 2023 © Spaswinefood

It was a very lovely wine tasting at Darovi Vipavske. 

While touring the village I noticed Vina Kovac sign.

Sign Spotting: Vina Kovac © Spaswinefood

All too soon, we left the Vipava Valley and headed back to Ljubljana. 

 Vipava Valley, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

Moreover, after visiting and reading about this historical town, Vipavski Križ it certainly makes me want to return. Besides falling in love with the town we left taking with us, those wonderful memories of the Vipava Valley landscape in the spring time.

Spring Time Vineyards, Vipava Valley © Spaswinefood

Vipava Valley amidst the picturesque Karst landscapes is where Mediterranean air meets the cold Alpine slopes. This is a region is renowned for its rich winemaking tradition and stunning natural beauty. As we drove through the valley we passed by villages, which were centered around church towers.

Taking in the Views, Vipava Valley, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

Vineyards were already showing signs of early spring growth.

Spring Time Flowers: Vipava Valley Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Slovenian Wine Country

Vipava Valley  was my first introduction to Slovenian wine country. Slovenia has three wine regions. Vipava Valley is within one of these three, the Primorska wine region. There are no appellations within the Primorska region however, there are various districts where winemaking techniques and the wine produced differ. The winemaking districts of the Primorska wine region include Vipava, Slovenian Istra , Goriska Brda, and Karts. The Vipava area (3005 ha) is commonly known for producing light and crisp white wines made from Pinela and Zelen grapes. In addition, we were excited to discover its orange and amphora wines.

Vipava Valley (Vipavska Dolina) has been known as a wine-growing region for centuries. Not only has wine growing been deep-rooted tradition here but also, new innovations have also emerged. It is one of Slovenia's most successful wine regions. We visited a region with beautiful green rolling hills that benefit from good soils, a mild climate, and rain. Despite its distance from the coast, this region has a Mediterranean climate. Moreover, the Vipava River flows across the region, and onto the Adriatic Sea. Visitors to the Vipava Valley will experience quality Vipava wines, which are enriched by the sun and the bora wind. Yes, we heard about the strong bora winds that sweep through the valley.

The Vipava Valley, since Slovenia's independence in 1991, has experienced growth in its wine industry.  It is a very dynamic wine region, with winemakers constantly experimenting with grape varietals and the winemaking process. In addition to successfully growing numerous well-known international wine varieties, it is also home to special grape varieties. These include: (1) the indigenous Zelen, which is very popular among the locals, (2) Pinela, an old wine variety, found only in the Vipava Valley, (3) Klarnica, a “boutique” wine variety, which has been revived again, and (4) other wine varieties. 

Vipava Valley, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

By day's end we were impressed by Vipava Valley and its wines

. I am so glad that we had the opportunity to visit Darovi Vipavske, and our earlier stop at Guerila Wines. 

The Vipava Valley Wine Express Tour From Ljubljana was a fabulous introductory tour for us. For those interested in trying Slovenia wines you can research their availability in the US at Total Wines and Vivino. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Slovenia and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Bluesky and  Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my vine-filled explorations.

Cheers

Sharon

April 2025

Vipava Valley, Slovenia

© Spaswinefood

Darovi Vipavske in Vipavski Križ, Vipava Valley © Spaswinefood

Wine Travels in the Vipava Valley © Spaswinefood

Vipava Valley, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

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Slovenia's Vipava Valley: Intro to Guerila wines produced from indigenous grapes, and its orange and amphora wines

Vipava Valley's Guerila Winery was our first introduction to Slovenian wines made with indigenous grapes Pinela and Zelen. In addition, we were excited to taste their orange and amphora wines. Guerila is a modern winery located at the top of Planina Village, just above Koboli. From the winery you get stunning views of the Vipava Valley (Vipavska Dolina), including views of Nanos slopes, and Caven and Trnovo Plateaus. Come with me on a wine lover's journey to the enchanting Vipava Valley, Slovenia.

Vipava Valley's Guerila Winery, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

Given that in recent years I have followed wine events in Slovenia I so wanted to explore Slovenian wines.  I have been wanting to visit Slovenia wine country for awhile now; so when the opportunity came last April, I knew it was perfect timing. Indeed it was a perfect fit for us after our visit to Croatian wine country. 

Vipava Valley, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

First, here is an introduction to Vipava Valley (Vipavska Dolina).

Welcome to Slovenia Wine Country

Slovenia has three wine regions. Vipava Valley is within one of these three, the Primorska wine region. There are no appellations within the Primorska region however, there are various districts where winemaking techniques and the wine produced differ. The winemaking districts of the Primorska wine region include Vipava, Slovenian Istra , Goriska Brda, and Karts. The Vipava area (3005 ha) is commonly known for producing light and crisp white wines made from Pinela and Zelen grapes. In addition, we were excited to discover its orange and amphora wines.

Vipava Valley (Vipavska Dolina) has been known as a wine-growing region for centuries. Not only has wine growing been deep-rooted tradition here but also, new innovations have also emerged. It is one of Slovenia's most successful wine regions. We visited a region with beautiful green rolling hills that benefit from good soils, a mild climate, and rain. Despite its distance from the coast, this region has a Mediterranean climate. Moreover, the Vipava River flows across the region, and onto the Adriatic Sea. Visitors to the Vipava Valley will experience quality Vipava wines, which are enriched by the sun and the bora wind. Yes, we heard about the strong bora winds that sweep through the valley.

The Vipava Valley, since Slovenia's independence in 1991, has experienced growth in its wine industry.  It is a very dynamic wine region, with winemakers constantly experimenting with grape varietals and the winemaking process. In addition to successfully growing numerous well-known international wine varieties, it is also home to special grape varieties. These include: (1) the indigenous Zelen, which is very popular among the locals, (2) Pinela, an old wine variety, found only in the Vipava Valley, (3) Klarnica, a “boutique” wine variety, which has been revived again, and (4) other wine varieties. 

Vipava Valley, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

Off to the Vipava Valley

Shortly after we arrived in Ljubljana, I booked a wine tour to the Vipava Valley. Wine Express Tours visits winemakers at their home estate and offers the opportunity to savor the finest wines and food delicacies. Also, I was impressed by their statement: Sustainability and purity are the two words that best describe this tour. In fact the Vipava Valley is know for its biodynamic wine growing. 

#Winelovers from Finland, Vipava Valley © Spaswinefood

When we met at mid-day at our pickup point we joined four women from Finland for the wine tour. It was about a one and half hour drive to Vipava Valley from Ljubljana. Our van driver who was also the tour leader gave us an overview of what to expect. As we drove from Ljubljana to the wine valley our guide explained the major influences on the various regions of Slovenia. Along the way he would also pointed out significant sites, etc. It was a very relaxing spring time drive through the Slovenian countryside to the Vipava Valley.

Spring Time, Vipava Valley © Spaswinefood

Along the way to Guerila Wines we passed by vineyards, eventually reaching higher elevation with great views of the valley.

Welcome to Vipava Valley Wine Country © Spaswinefood

Guerila Wines, Vipava Valley © Spaswinefood

Guerila Wines, A Family Estate

We stopped for our first wine tasting at the Guerila Winery. This modern winery is located at the top of Planina Village, just above Koboli. From the winery you get stunning views of the Vipava Valley, views of Nanos slopes, and Caven and Trnovo Plateaus. Guerila is a family estate that practices biodynamic wine growing.

Side View of Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

Guerila Family Estate, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

We saw sheep grazing in the vineyards.

Sheep Grazing, Guerila Family Estate © Spaswinefood

From the parking lot it was up the stairs to the main entrance.

Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

Upon our arrival we were indeed excited to visit our first Slovenian wine cellar. We were warmly greeted, and then taken on a short winery tour.

Touring Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

Wines on Display, Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

I noticed the signs on the tanks.

2024 Pinela Cuvee, Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

2024 Zelen, Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

2024 Zelen Cuvee and 2021 Extreme Barbera, Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

Later, as I learned more about the wines produced in this region, the signs on the tanks became more meaning for me.

We stopped briefly in the barrel room.

Barrel Room, Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

Exploring Guerila's Barrel Room © Spaswinefood

We were introduced to the bedrock, which is typical of area.

Taking Closer Look at the Bedrock, Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

Tasting Guerila Wines

I discovered that Guerila produces three lines of wine:

1. Guerila classic wines matures in stainless steel tanks after a short maceration. This line includes Pinela, Zelen, Malvazija, and their rosé and sparkling wines. 

2. Guerila selection are wines with prolonged maceration, and aged in traditional wooden barrels. This line includes Rebula, Malvazija, Retro whites, and Retro reds, Cabernet franc and Barbera. 

3. Guerila exterme are wines of selected vintages, which undergo a long maceration, are fermented in traditional barrels or amphorae, and aged for a few years before they are bottled. The wines are Amphora, and Amphora red.

When we returned back upstairs we began the wine tasting with a sparkling wine, their Castra Brut Nature. This wine was the perfect wine to begin the tasting.

Tasting Castra Brut Nature, Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

The indigenous Zelen and Pinela grapes are used to make Castra Brut Nature.

Soon food platters appeared on the table.

Cheeses and More, Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

It was so delightful to discover the Guerila wines. This was our first time to taste Vipavska Dolina (Vipava Valley) wines.

Discovering Guerila Wines © Spaswinefood

A Closer Look: Guerila Wines © Spaswinefood

Guerila, Pinela Vipavska Dolina 2023

Guerila, Pinela Vipavska Dolina 2023 © Spaswinefood

Guerila, Pinela Vipavska Dolina 2023 © Spaswinefood

Pinela is one of the wines we tasted produced from the indigenous grape Pinela (an old wine variety) found only in the Vipava Valley.

Guerila Selection Reto, Vipavska Dolina

Guerila Selection Reto, Vipavska Dolina © Spaswinefood

This white wine is made from Malvasia, and Zelen (an indigenous grape). Wine made with Zelen is very popular among the locals.

Guerila Extreme Amphora, Vipavska Dolina 

Guerila Extreme Amphora, Vipavska Dolina © Spaswinefood

Guerila Extreme Amphora, Vipavska Dolina © Spaswinefood

Guerila Amphora Extreme is a natural Orange Wine made from Rebula grapes. They also have a Guerila Amphora Extreme Red made from Barbera grapes.

In the Glass, Guerila Amphora Extreme © Spaswinefood

We enjoyed our wine tasting of wines made with indigenous grapes, and their orange and amphora wines. In case you are wondering what are orange and amphora wines. Both of these wines are derived from ancient traditions. In the case of orange wine, sometimes called amber wine, it is a style of wine that is produced from white grapes. Specifically during the fermentation process the pressed grape juice has contact with skin and seeds. On the other hand amphora wine, is a wine fermented or aged in a clay vessel, such as a qvevri. This process can be used for any type of wine.

Making Wine Purchase, Guerila Winery © Spaswinefood

Those looking for a comfortable accommodations in the heart of the Vipava Valley Guerila Winery has three modern apartments. Given its stunning location and great wines it would be so exciting to stay here.

We were impressed by Vipava Valley and i

n particular Guerila Wines where you can explore orange and amphora wines, and wines produced from indigenous grapes. Our Vipava Valley Wine Express Tour From Ljubljana was a fabulous introductory tour for us. Wine Express Tours visits winemakers at their home estate and offers the opportunity to savor the finest wines and food delicacies. For those interested in trying Slovenia wines you can research their availability in the US at Total Wines and Vivino. Also, this US distributor has further info on Slovenian wines, including the winery cited in this post at: https://www.vinumusa.com/. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Slovenia and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Bluesky and  Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my vine-filled explorations.

Cheers

Sharon

April 2025

Vipava Valley, Slovenia

© Spaswinefood

Guerila Winery, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

Wine Travels in the Vipava Valley, Slovenia © Spaswinefood

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