Thursday, March 6, 2025

I love my Mendoza wine country travels

I have been thinking about our wine travels in Argentina's Mendoza Province.  Mendoza, home to over 1,500 wineries, has vineyards that are amongst the highest altitude vineyards in the world, averaging between 2,000-3,600 feet) above sea level. The three wine regions nearest the city of Mendoza include Valle de Uco, Luján de Cuyo, and Maipu, all of which are situated in the Andes eastern foothills. The Atuel, Diamante and Tunuyán rivers that have their origin in the Andes provide the essential water for Mendoza’s vineyards. This unique geography contributes to making Mendoza one of the top wine areas in the world. Whenever we return to Mendoza Province our hardest task was coming up with a short list of wineries to visit. 

Vines of Mendoza Vineyard, Mendoza © Spaswinefood
On the plus side given there are so many excellent wineries, many with stunning views of the Andes, it is easy to fill up your calendar. I love my Mendoza wine country travels.
The Vines of Mendoza © Spaswinefood
My Argentine wine affair began with Malbec but it grew quickly to an appreciation for other Argentine wines like Bonarda and Torrontés. No wine travels in Argentina is complete without visiting Mendoza Province, the largest wine-producing region. Moreover, the gastronomic scene is also growing fast both within/beyond the city of Mendoza. When most people think of Argentine wines they are most likely to first think of Malbec and Torrontés. While Mendoza produces great Malbec, Torrontés it also produces other great wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Chardonnay,  Syrah,  Merlot and Bornada. Let's see why I love Mendoza wine country.

I Love my Mendoza Wine Country Travels
YES, given you will never run out of winery options to visit, you will need a plan. I suspect that many visitors are likely to stay in Mendoza City, as we did. From Mendoza city the Valle de Uco is 75 minutes away, Luján de Cuyo (40 minutes), and Maipu (15-20 minutes). Within these regions there are many wineries, spread over a large area. Moreover, finding the wineries can often be problematic given driving directions to many wineries are often not clearly marked. You will find some areas where a number of wineries are in close proximity, whereas others are not. We soon discovered that it was difficult to do more than three wineries in a day. Public transportation is certainly not recommended. Renting a car is an option but make sure you have a cellphone or GPS. The other options are to do a tour, or hire a driver to take you. Because we during our last visit had a week we rented a car.
Top Views, Bodega Septima © Spaswinefood 
Bodega Septima Vineyard © Spaswinefood
My overall recommendation would be to select a number of smaller and larger wineries to visit. I would strongly recommend making appointments for tasting. An important fact to consider is that the cost of some wine tastings can be on the expensive side, especially if you want to taste their premium wines, which we did. Afterall, why travel to Argentina to taste wines you can easily get at the supermarket. Many of the wineries have restaurants where they offer wine pairings with lunch. We did a number of winery lunches and totally enjoyed the overall experience. In fact, I would highly recommend it.
Vines of Mendoza Vineyard, Uco Valley © Spaswinefood

We began our explorations in Valle de Uco, the furthest way from Mendoza. We then worked our way back towards Mendoza city. Since in earlier articles I have focused on the wineries, this article I will share an overview of some of the wineries we visited:

Valle de Uco (Uco Valley) 2017
Domaine Bousquet (lunch), lunch at Siete Feugos Restaurant followed by wine tasting at Vines of Mendoza. These were two awesome days for us. Zuccardi has opened a new winery in the Uco Valley. We did not visit this winery however, we heard that it is awesome from very reliable sources.
Lunch, Domaine Bousquet © Spaswinefood
On our way back to Mendoza after Domaine Bousquet visit we took the scenic route at the base of the Andes.
Zuccardi, Valle de Uco, Tito 2013 © Spaswinefood

Valle de Uco's uniqueness makes it one of the top wine areas in the world, which has become known for its Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Semillon and Torrontes.
Clos de Los Siete, Valle de Uco © Spaswinefood
Vista Flores, a sub-district within the Valle de Uco, has attracted attention from pioneering international winemakers. Historical Bordeaux-based names, such as Lurton (Gran Lurton), Dassault and Rothschild (Flechas de Los Andes), and Rolland (Clos de Los Siete) have established wineries here. We were most fortunate to discover Vista Flores, Tunuyán.  Our #AmericaSurVinos2020 winery visits included:

1. Corazon del Sol

Corazon del Sol on short notice accommodated us for a wine tasting. They also made a lunch reservation for us at nearby Bodega Gimenez Riili. First, I will briefly review our Corazon del Sol visit.
Corazon del Sol © Spaswinefood
Winemaker Santiago Achaval produces the wines from their estate vineyard.  Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre grapes do well here.
Bodega Corazon del Sol © Spaswinefood
While waiting for the tasting we enjoyed a welcoming glass of rosé.
Ventana, Bodega Corazon del Sol © Spaswinefood
We very much enjoyed the wines they offered during our tasting. Moreover, the staff was awesome.
Lineup of Bodega Corazon del Sol Wines © Spaswinefood
One of these wines included.

Corazon del Sol, Single Vineyard Malbec 2015

Bodega Corazon del Sol, Single Vineyard Malbec 2015 © Spaswinefood
These are quality wines made with great care.

Both on our arrival and exit I got a glimpse of their soon to be harvested grapevines in their estate vineyard.
Vineyard, Bodega Corazon del Sol © Spaswinefood
From Bodega Corazon del Sol it was just a short drive to Bodega Gimenz Riili.

2. Bodega Gimenez Riili 
The winery's mission is to share its ninety-year history, passion for producing high-end wines, and to practise sound vineyard management. 
Bodega Gimenez Riili © Spaswinefood
Gimenez Riili, a boutique winery, is one of the few family owned and runed Uco Valley wineries. Since 1920, the family has owned vineyards and produced wines in Mendoza. These days the winery and vineyards (Maipu, Uco, La Rioja Famatina Valleys) are owned and managed by the third generation, Pablo, Federico and Juan Manuel Gimenez Riili, three of the five sons of Eduardo Gimenez and Susana Riili. The Gimenez Riili family are continually exploring better enological practices. Their goal is to integrate the best of traditional winemaking techniques with modern technology. Moreover, their wine production is therefore aimed at capturing and sharing the history of a place, a family and its love for wine. Perhaps it is not surprising that it was the first winery to be setup in the Vines of Mendoza. 

It was a beautiful summer's day when we ate lunch at Bodega Giménez Riili . 
Bodega Pablo Gimenez Riili © Spaswinefood
Lunch Bodega Gimenez Riili © Spaswinefood
Memories of the Uco Valley © Spaswinefood
During an awesome afternoon lunch we enjoyed a great lineup of their wines.

3. Clos de Los Siete 
One of the highlights of our Valle de Uco travels was a visit to the Clos de Los Siete Group. Clos de los Siete, home to seven vineyards, right at the foot of the Andes Mountains, is located in the heart of the Uco Valley. The vineyards, at 1,000-1,200 metres above sea level, cover 850 hectares (2100 acres). The famed French wine consultant, Michel Rolland, manages and is a part owner of Clos de Los Siete. This venture is a team of men and women who share a passion for Argentina and its wine. 
Welcome to Clos de Los Siete, Valle de Uco © Spaswinefood
Later we would visit Bodega Monteviejo, part of the Clos de Los Siete Group.
Vineyards, Clos de Los Siete © Spaswinefood
Bodega Monteviejo, Clos de Los Siete © Spaswinefood
Bodega Monteviejo
When we entered Bodega Monteviejo, located at the foot of the Andes, we passed row upon row of grape vines, as we drove to the winery.
Bodega Monteviejo © Spaswinefood
Vineyard, Bodega Monteviejo © Spaswinefood
Upon approaching the winery a sculpture came into view.
Sculpture, Bodega Monteviejo © Spaswinefood
After we arrived at the winery we headed upstairs to the tasting area. Ajoing the tasting room is a rooftop with spectacular views of the vineyards and the Andes Mountains.
Rooftop, Bodega Monteviejo © Spaswinefood
Views to the Andes, Bodega Monteviejo © Spaswinefood
We enjoyed a wine tasting in this awesome setting.
Bodega Monteviejo Wines © Spaswinefood
Later we ate lunch in their restaurant.
Lunch, Bodega Monteviejo © Spaswinefood
Both lunch and the wines were awesome.

Being there in February 2020 brought back memories of an  outing to the Uco Valley in 2017. Besides discovering (1)Vines of Mendoza, a winemakers’ village, a collection of boutique wineries, with the most influential winemakers in Argentina, we also visited  (2) Domaine Bousquet known for its award winning organic wines. During that visit Domaine Bousquet's winery restaurant was actually our first stop in Mendoza Province. 

Luján de Cuyo
Luján de Cuyo wine country, a spectacular vine-filled escape, is a sub-region of Argentina’s best known and largest viticultural area, Mendoza. This sub-region was the first appellation recognized in Argentina in 1993. While Malbec is the most important grape variety, the area is also known for its high quality Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Torrontés. Moreover, Luján de Cuyo is home to some of the most famous names in Argentinean wine world such as Catena Zapata, Bodega Septima and others. From Mendoza City, it is easy to visit Luján de Cuyo with the drive taking about 40 minutes.  I invite you to take a look at my Luján de Cuyo vine filled calendar.
Views to the Andes, Catena Zapata © Spaswinefood
A Luján de Cuyo Vine Filled Calendar 
When we returned to Mendoza for our #AméricaSurVinos2020 travels included Catena Zapata, Bodega Lagarde, and Bodegas Chandon. 

From the Roof to the Andes, Catena Zapata © Spaswinefood
Catena Zapata
We began our explorations at Catena Zapata, a family-owned winery, which not only introduced Argentine Malbec to the wine world, but also set a high benchmark for this flagship grape. This winery had its beginning when Italian immigrant Nicolás Catena planted his first Malbec vineyard in Mendoza in 1902. Later his grandson, Nicolás Catena Zapata (AKA Nicolás Catena) is credited with revolutionized Argentine wine, by introducing high altitude Malbec to the world. Nicolás Catena’s daughter, Laura Catena, and other members of the Zapata family, are now involved in the winery. 
Catena Zapata, Luján de Cuyo © Spaswinefood
As you approach this winery one of the first things you notice is its pyramid-like design based on Mayan architecture. The focus of our wine tasting was a Renaissance of Malbec Experience
Private Tasting, Catena Zapata © Spaswinefood
Glasses Ready, Catena Zapata © Spaswinefood
It is important to note that Catena wines are made from 100% estate-grown fruit from the family’s high-altitude vineyards. All Catena Zapata wines are a blend of varietals from various locations within their estate vineyards. 
Catena Zapata Malbec Wines Tasted © Spaswinefood
What a lineup of wines it was. During the wine tasting we certainly had a Renaissance of Malbec Experience. I would highly recommend doing a Malbec tasting at Catena Zapata. Be sure to book well in advance.

Bodegas Chandon
Spaswinefood was delighted to visit Bodegas Chandon. The bodega is in the middle of the Alto Agrelo vineyard district of Luján de Cuyo. One of the first things you notice when you arrive at the bodega is the French-style gardens. Moët & Chandon, after a visit to Argentina in the 1950s, realized the region’s great potential for sparkling wines. As noted earlier, Argentina was chosen for very their establishment of vineyards and a winery outside France. It was one of Argentina’s first foreign investors in the wine industry. This investment attracted other investors. The result is they are credited with creating a boom in foreign interest in Argentine wine.
Bodegas Chandon, Luján de Cuyo © Spaswinefood
Bodegas Chandon's world-class sparkling wines make them unique in the region. The bodega uses different methods for sparkling wine production, which includes both handmade sparkling wines (champenoise) and wines made in larger tanks (charmat). Upon arrival they offered us two wines to taste. We selected a rosé and an aperitif.
Bodegas Chandon, Brut Nature Rose NV © Spaswinefood
On that hot summer's day this sparkling rosé wine was a winner.

Chandon, Brut Nature Rose NV
Bodegas Chandon, Brut Nature Rose © Spaswinefood
We decided to try a new line that they were introducing a sparkling aperitif.
Bodegas Chandon, Apéritif  © Spaswinefood
I loved this sparkling aperitif. It was also a winner in that it offered something unique from Chandon. 
Bodegas Chandon Sparkling Wines © Spaswinefood

The bodega offers different lines of bubbles, including Blanc de Blanc (white wine from white grapes) and Blanc de Noir (white wine from red grapes) wines. For those looking for a dining experience their L' Orangerie restaurant offers culinary delights, such as a sparkling wine paired lunch.

Bodega Lagarde
Luján de Cuyo's Lagarde Restaurant Fogón, is a place where vine-filled memories are created. It is hard to imagine a better setting for a vineyard lunch than Restaurant FogónBodega Lagarde is a family owned winery  
 Bodega Lagarde's Restaurant Fogón, Luján de Cuyo © Spaswinefood
Lagarde lists its main goal as honoring the past, and imaging the future. Honoring of the past is indeed important given that Lagarde is one of oldest wineries in Mendoza. In fact some of their Malbec vines are over 100 years old. Its first vines were planted in 1897 when the winery was established. The winery has been owned by just two families. In 1969 the Pescarmona family, with three generations of wine making history, acquired the property. Today Lagarde is managed by two sisters, Sofia and Lucila. The Pescarmona family's vision for managing the winery is sustainability for people, community and the environment. 
  Bodega Lagarde's Restaurant Fogón 2017 © Spaswinefood
Wine Time, Bodega Lagarde 2017 © Spaswinefood
Wine Tasting, Bodega Lagarde 2017 © Spaswinefood
In 2017 while touring Luján de Cuyo wineries it was highly recommended that we visit Lagarde. Then later, while checking out potential winery visits, we happened to find ourselves at the entrance to Lagarde around lunch time. We soon discovered that we could not have asked for a better place. So naturally when returning to Mendoza in 2020 we made a reservation for lunch. 

Luján de Cuyo 2017
Bodega Norton (tasted great premium wines), Bodega Lagarde (excellent wine tasting and lunch), Bodega Septima (another good tasting; we toured its restaurant), Bodega Caelum (wonderful tasting at smaller winery), and lunch at a local restaurant filled two days of explorations in Luján de Cuyo.

 Bodega Norton, Luján de Cuyo, Gernot Langes 2010
Bodega Norton, Luján de Cuyo, Gernot Langes 2010 © Spaswinefood

Caelum Winery Vineyard
Caelum Winery, Argentina © Spaswinefood
Bodega Septima
Bodega Septima, Mendoza © Spaswinefood
Maria Restaurant, Bodega Septima © Spaswinefood 
Bodega Lagarde



Lagarde Lunch with Wines © Spaswinefood
Wine Time, Bodega Lagarde © Spaswinefood
Wine Tasting, Bodega Lagarde © Spaswinefood

During a previous trip we visited Ruca Mulen for lunch and loved it. 
Ruca Mulen, Mendoza © Spaswinefood
We also enjoyed visiting Alta Vista, and Belasco De Baquedano on a prior visit. Driving by these wineries this time brought back happy memories.
Belasco De Baquedano, Mendoza © Spaswinefood
While in Luyan de Cuyo area we tried to arrange a visit at Catena Zapata however, did not have any luck on short notice. 
Catena Zapata, Mendoza © Spaswinefood
We did manage, with the guard's approval, to take a peck at the vineyards and winery in the distance.
Catena Zapata Vineyards © Spaswinefood
Catena Zapata © Spaswinefood
Catena Zapata through the Vines © Spaswinefood
Fortunately on our 2020 trip we did visit. 

Maipú 

Maipú Valley, a sub-region within Mendoza, Argentina's largest viticultural region, is an historic wine area. Besides its wine history Maipú is home to some of Mendoza's top-quality, and high end producers of MalbecCabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. Familia Zuccardi, Rutini and Trapiche have vineyards in Maipú

Maipú Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Not only is Mendoza's Maipú Valley filled with wine history but it is the closest wine region to Mendoza City. From Mendoza City to Maipú it is about a 15-20 minute drive. Given we were well acquainted with wines from well known producers last time we decided to focus on Maipú's small producers. 

One of Maipú's small producers. CarinaE, a boutique winery in Cruz de Piedra, Maipú made our list.

CarinaE Wines, Maipú © Spaswinefood

While coming up with a short list is challenging, on the plus side given there are so many excellent wineries, it is easy to fill up your calendar. For first time visitors to Maipú my overall recommendation would be to select a number of smaller and larger wineries to visit.

Cruz de Piedra, Maipú, Mendoza © Spaswinefood

Not only is Mendoza's Maipú Valley filled with wine history but it is the closest wine region to Mendoza City. Names like Trapiche, Zuccardi, and Lopez come up often, others Flichman and La Rural have been recommended.
Onwards to Maipu © Spaswinefood
Then we passed by vineyards before the final exit sign.
Vineyard, Maipu © Spaswinefood
Maipu Exit © Spaswinefood
The end result is given there are so many wineries in Mendoza that it might be best to hire a good wine touring company, especially for a brief visit. If you have a week then renting a car is a good option. Moreover, there are wineries, like Luigi Bosca whose winery is located in Luyán de Cuyo but they have vineyards located in Valle de Uco,  Luján de Cuyo, and Maipu. 

Luigi Bosca, Viognier Chardonnay Riesling 2014
Luigi Bosca, Viognier Chardonnay Riesling 2014 © Spaswinefood
No Argentine wine country travels are complete without visiting Mendoza’s wine region, the largest wine-producing region, accounting for over two thirds of the country’s wine production. 
Wine Tasting, Bodega Caelum © Spaswinefood

I love my Mendoza wine country travels and can't wait to return. There is never enough time to tour Mendoza's wine regionsWhenever we return to Mendoza there are some tough decisions to be made. The fact that we stayed in the city also cut into wine touring time. We stayed at the Sheraton Mendoza, a great downtown location, with so many restaurants and sidewalk cafes all within walking distance. Downtown Mendoza has good hotels options however, for those looking to getaway from it all then the option of a vineyard stay is an absolute must. You can check out my earlier travels in Argentina and elsewhere at Spaswinefood, Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on  Bluesky and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on vine-filled explorations in Argentina. 

Sharon
Notes from wine country travels,
Mendoza Province, Argentina
© Spaswinefood
Mendoza City, Argentina © Spaswinefood
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