Basque country: A top destination for wine and food

When travelers come to Northeast Spain's San Sebastián they know they are in for a special treat. From casual pintxo bars to Michelin starred restaurants, this city in Basque Country (País Vasco, or Euskadi), is all about the celebration of food and wine. It is internationally renown as one of the world’s gastronomic capitals. Culinary visitors are not only attracted by San Sebastián's culinary scene but also, Hondarribia, in recent years, has seen a boom in its culinary scene. Young chefs who, after studying under the likes of Martín Berasategui and Pedro Subijana, have set up shop there. The quality of the new gastronomy scene is right up there with San Sebastian.  Not only is Basque Country a top culinary area, known for its own culture and language, but also it has a rich wine making tradition. 

Welcome to Basque Country © Spaswinefood

 Basque Txakoli Wine Region

The beautiful Basque Txakoli wine region is a place with striking landscapes. Of course I came to enjoy Basque Country travels at this top destination for wine and food. Txakoli (Chacolí in Spanish, pronounced: chak-ko-lee) wine making dates back hundreds of years, and has a long tradition of being produced from the indigenous grape varieties: Hondarrabi Zuri, Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia, and Izkiriota. Txakoli wines are most commonly produced as a light, fruity and acid-driven, slightly sparkling dry white wine. This wine is also produced in rose, sparkling, and late harvest styles. It is home to three Txakoli appellations (Txakoli Getaria (Getariako Txakolina) DO established 1989, Txakoli Bizkaia (Bizkailo Txakolina) DO established 1994, and Txakoli Álava (Arabako Txakolina) DO established 2001). There is one appellation in each of the three Basque provinces. 

Txakoli Vineyard, Basque Country © Spaswinefood

Besides being home to Txakoli wines restaurants throughout the region have excellent wine lists, which include wines from other regions.

Here's to Celebrating Wine and Food 

I had come here to celebrate food and wine with friends. 

El Bistro Ondarreta

Shortly after arriving in San Sebastián, it was off to El Bistro Ondarreta for dinner.

Welcome to San Sebastián, El Bistro Ondarreta © Spaswinefood

Our dinner that evening was a celebration with our WineMine group.

Dinner, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

We enjoyed a most delicious dinner at El Bistro Ondarreta. I was so happy to taste the Spanish wines that Sinisa had brought. He also prepared us for our Txakoli wine adventures, which would start the next morning.

Dinner Wines © Spaswinefood

Since in earlier posts I focused on our winery visits this post is primarily a gastronomic overview.

San Sebastián

After exploring wine country we concluded our first day with lunch in town, followed by a walking tour of historical San Sebastián. 

Rainy Spring Day, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

By the time we returned to San Sebastián gray clouds filled the sky.

Low Tide, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

The waterfront scene was captivating even on a gray, rainy day. We managed to arrive back in town at low tide.

Waiting for the Tide, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Soon we were off to lunch at Urepel Jatetxea.

Urepel Jatetxea, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Escaping inside for lunch at Urepel Jatetxea was a perfect escape from the rain.

Time for Lunch, Urepel Jatetxea © Spaswinefood

For sure lunch at Urepel Jatetxea was delicious and so were the desserts.

Perhaps Dessert, Urepel Jatetxea © Spaswinefood

Dessert Time, Urepel Jatetxea © Spaswinefood

                                                                                                                                                                                                        

Dining in San Sebastián, home to so many Michelin starred restaurants, is foodie heaven. One of my friends gave me a list of recommended restaurants. Seriously, during a three night stay it was impossible to do justice. We did manage to have dinner at Narru located opposite Buen Pastor Cathedral.

Narru, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Narru's offers Basque cuisine & pintxos. It has been described as a traditional, market-inspired cuisine.  The emphasis is on high-quality ingredients and presentation.

Of course, it was a good time to try a few wines, and we did.

AT Roca Pedregar, DO Clàssic Penedès 2016

AT Roca Pedregar, DO Clàssic Penedès 2016 © Spaswinefood

This an organic Brut Nature sparkling wine made with Macabeo and Garnacha Tinta varieties from the D.O. Penedès. With food of course it was delicious. We ordered a number of small plates.

Small Plates, Narru © Spaswinefood

Enjoying Wine at Narru, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Pintia DO Toro 2018

Pintia DO Toro 2018 © Spaswinefood

Both of these wines were excellent.

How could one resist dessert!

Chocolate at its Best, Narru, San Sebastián © Spaswinefood

Reservations are necessary for dinner, and highly recommended for lunch, especially if you want to sit in the restaurant section downstairs.

After exploring wineries in this region one of the highlights was our wine and food experience at Hiruzta Bodega, in the Txakoli Getaria (or Getariako Txakolina) appellation.

Food & Wine Time, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

Celebrating Wine and Food, Hiruzta Bodega © Spaswinefood

 I would highly recommend a wine and food pairing at Hiruzka Bodega.

Yes, we managed to do lunch in Hondarribia (Fuenterrabía in Spanish), a colorful fishing village that is both rich in architecture and gastronomy. 

Harbor at Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Hondarribia is quite close to the French border. In fact it is just across the harbor in the above photo.

While in Hondarribia, there was opportunity for another gastronomic exploration. In recent years, it has seen a boom in its culinary scene. As I have already noted, young chefs who, after studying under the likes of Martín Berasategui and Pedro Subijana, have set up shop in Hondarribia. The quality of the new gastronomy scene is right up there with San Sebastian. I am so glad to have visited.

Lunch, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

The plates served during lunch included:

Veggie Plate, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Meat Plate, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Fish Plate, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

After lunch we toured Hondarribia on our own. Its architecture is very captivating to explore. 

Exploring Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

Stunning Architecture, Hondarribia © Spaswinefood

I would highly recommend a visit to Hondarribia to checkout its gastronomy and its architecture. 

Given that it rained during my May visit I would like to note that when I arrived in Basque Country it was a sunny day. I managed to take a few photos of the Cantabrian Sea along the flight path to the airport.

Approach to San Sebastián Airport, Cantabrian Sea © Spaswinefood

Basque Country is undoubtedly a top destination for wine and food. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my recent vine-filled explorations in Spain. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

May 2023

San Sabastian, Spain 

© Spaswinefood

Basque Country Travels with WineMine Friends © Spaswinefood

#spaswinefood travels in Txakoli Wine Country  

Living the dream is exploring Douro Valley quintas

Each time I return to the scenic Douro Valley is a great opportunity to explore its quintas. For those who want a more authentic Douro Valley experience if you stay at a quinta, you will most likely get quality time. Given there are over 200 quintas in the Douro there is no way to experience all of them however, besides staying at a quinta, you can also do wine tastings, and/or dine at others. I have so enjoyed all my Douro Valley quinta experiences. 

Douro Explorations © Spaswinefood

In case you are wondering What is a Quinta? Historically quintas were family owned estates that included farm homes, surrounded by large plots of land, intended for both income and family consumption. These farms usually rented out one-fifth of its property. Fifth is quintus in Latin hence, they became known as quintas. Over time, and with more modern cultivation practices, many of Portugal’s traditional quintas disappeared. Many of the estates were wine-producing. In fact today many of Portugal’s wines are still produced at quintas, with the labels bearing their name. Moreover, Douro's port vineyards there is a Quinta Classification system that grades the quality potential of vineyards. 

Visitors are immediately struck by the stunning beauty of the oldest demarcated and regulated wine region in the world. This wine region was defined in 1756, and made a UNESCO World Heritage in 2001. Its terraced vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, along the Douro River and its tributaries. The valley runs along the Douro River, from Spain to Porto (Oporto), on the Atlantic coast. During my 2023 Douro visit I stayed at two quintas, Qunita do Portal and Quinta Manhãs Douro, and visited Quinta de la Rosa's Cozinha da Clara Restaurante, and Quinta do Pôpa. Over the years my Douro wine travels have included Quinta Do Panascal, Quinta Do Seixo, Senhora Do Rosário and others. What follows are a few highlights:

1. Qunita do Portal 

Qunita do Portal was my doorway to this very special wine region. October 2012 this was where we (John and I) were first introduced to the Douro Valley. Returning in 2023 meant we (Carol & I) could experience the vineyards in the spring time.

Quinta do Portal, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

We so enjoyed those spring time walks.

Quinta do Portal, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Spring time also meant the grapes were just starting to bud.

Spring Time Vines, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Grape Vines Starting to Bud, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Besides observing the vineyard we loved taking in the views.

Taking in the Views, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

We took advantage of posing in the vineyard.

Carol, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Spaswinefood Moments, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

We so enjoyed those vineyard walks.  

Quinta do Portal Restaurant © Spaswinefood

We had the most fabulous breakfasts, toured the winery, and of course dined at the restaurant.

Quinta do Portal Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Some how we managed to have two fantastic dinners at the restaurant during our stay.

Yes, we toured the winery to find out what the latest wine suggestions were.

Touring Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Quinta do Portal, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

It is always a pleasure to stay at Quinta do Portal.

2. Quinta Manhas Douro

Before leaving the Douro Valley we stayed at Quinta Manhas Douro.  The Quinta is located not far from Pinhão, one of the main tourist destinations of the Douro region.

Quinta Manhas Douro © Spaswinefood

Taking in the Views, Quinta Manhas Douro © Spaswinefood

Quinta Manhãs Douro is located in Provesende, a small village in Sabrosa Municipality, on the Aldeias Vinhateiras route.  It is in the heart of Alto Douro Vinhateiro, UNESCO World Heritage.

Views from Quinta Manhas Douro © Spaswinefood

Church, Provesende © Spaswinefood

High in the Douro Valley, the tiny village of Provesende, gave us an impressive view of the valley, and a snapshot into vintage Portugal of yesterday. 

Douro offers many excellent dining options. For sure our drives through the Douro Valley included a few culinary explorations along the way.  Let's take a peek at one of culinary outings at a quinta last May. One of the highlights of our culinary outings took us to Cozinha da Clara Restaurante, Quinta de la Rosa. Given it is located on the scenic Douro River it offers breathtaking views of the river and the surrounding hills.

3. Culinary Explorations at Cozinha da Clara Restaurante

Sitting by the window at Quinta de la Rosa's Cozinha da Clara Restaurante, we are about to discover one of the best dining spots in the Douro Valley. Quinta de la Rosa, with around 1,400 acres, is one of Douro's most famous estates with great views and river-facing location. Let's take a peek at our culinary outing to Quinta de la Rosa.

Douro Views by the River, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante © Spaswinefood

Our Douro Valley travels took us to Cozinha da Clara Restaurante at Quinta de la Rosa. This quinta is one of the Douro's most famous estates. In fact it has an amazing restaurant, located right on the Douro  River with fabulous views.  It provides an idyllic backdrop for dining.

Cozinha da Clara Restaurante, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

We found parking was a bit difficult to find there however, we managed to secure a spot nearby. For those without a car you can stroll along the river from the village of Pinhão. It is about a 15-20 minute walk. 

Cozinha da Clara Restaurante 

It was here we enjoyed the most fabulous lunch with a wine flight.

Quinta De La Rosa Wines, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante  © Spaswinefood

We were most fortunately it was late May. Not only were we lucky, to get a table but, we got one overlooking the river.

By the River, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante © Spaswinefood

Needless to say, we made the most of our dining experience.

Lunching by the River © Spaswinefood

We sure loved those riverside views while dining. During lunch a few tourist boats went by our dining spot.

Tourist Boat & River Views  © Spaswinefood

After adjusting to the beauty of this fabulous setting, we were ready for a wine flight.

Time for Wine © Spaswinefood

Wine Flight © Spaswinefood

Quinita De La Rosa Wine Flight © Spaswinefood

Quinita De La Rosa Wine in the Glasses © Spaswinefood

While their menu features Portuguese traditional foods I managed to navigate it to find good vegetarian options. Needless to say, we enjoy our lunch that day.

Squash Soup, Cozinha da Clara Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Barley Soup, Cozinha da Clara Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Meat Plate, Cozinha da Clara Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Mushroom Dish, Cozinha da Clara Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Sitting there, enjoying the views with a most delicious lunch at Cozinha da Clara Restaurant was beyond awesome. I certainly enjoyed Quinta de la Rosa wines. Yes, if you wish, you certainly can finish the meal with a glass of their port wine.

Taking In the River Views, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante © Spaswinefood

For us taking in those views, over lunch was pure delight.

Clouds & River View, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante © Spaswinefood

 Cloud Reflections, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante © Spaswinefood

Dining at Cozinha da Clara Restaurant was a very special culinary treat. After lunch we would continue on our way back to our accommodations at Quinta Manhas Douro.

4. Quinta do Pôpa

Quinta do Pôpa has been on my list for awhile. Over the years I have interacted with Stéphane Ferreira whose family owns Quinta do Pôpa. Vanessa, his sister is also winemaker. Returning spring 2023 to the Douro Valley was the perfect opportunity for me to visit the Quinta do Pôpa for the first time. Every time I return to the Douro Valley I am immediately struck by its stunning beauty. Terraced vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, along the Douro River and its tributaries. This description fits perfectly for Quinta do Pôpa in the heart of the Douro, in the hot and dry region of Cima Corgo, in Adorigo, Tabuaço county.

Quinta do Pôpa, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

We were blown away by the views at Quinta do Pôpa, and will the drive up and down, to the tasting room, not so much. For sure, after driving up, we relaxed and took our time. Special thanks to Carol for her excellent driving skills.

After taking in the sights at the top off we went to the tasting room.

Off to Quinta do Pôpa Tasting Room © Spaswinefood

The views from the tasting room are amazing, especially if you sit outside on the patio.

Outside Patio, Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

For lunch we ordered a cheese platter.

Cheese Platter, Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

We were introduced to each of the wines.

Quinta do Pôpa, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Quinta do Pôpa Wines, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

The Quinta do Pôpa wines in the tasting included, whites, reds and a vintage port. While wine tasting we had amazing views!

Patio Views, Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

Because of our timing we almost had the place to ourselves. There was a couple enjoying a picnic lunch.

Picnic at Pôpa © Spaswinefood

One could never tires of the views here.

Douro Valley Views © Spaswinefood

We sure enjoyed this Douro Valley quinta.

5. More on Douro Valley Quintas

Fortunately, during earlier Douro visits, I have visited a number quintas, such as Quinta Do Panascal and Quinta Do Seixo. Our spring 2023 agenda had included a return visit to Quevedo's at Quinta Senhora Do Rosário. It was undergoing reconstruction however, we did manage to drive by the area. 

Exploring the Douro Valley 2023 © Spaswinefood

It is hard to forget my July 2016 visit to Quevedo's at Quinta Senhora Do Rosário.

Quevedo, Douro Valley 2016 © Spaswinefood

While at Quevedo we were introduced to Quevedo and Covela wines. After a welcoming drink it was off to the Quevedo cellar for a quick look. Naturally, after a general overview Oscar poured us a few samples. Yes, we did some sampling from the wine barrels. Given that I had met Oscar at a number of prior wine events, it was rather special for me to finally visit with him at his family winery. 

Once back upstairs we continued to taste more Covela wines. One of the wines that I tasted was a Covela Edição Nacional Avesso 2013. 

Tasting Covela Wines © Spaswinefood

Covela Edição Nacional Avesso 2013 © Spaswinefood

The tasting of Quevedo and Covela wines continued over lunch. Lunch is always a gastronomic affair at such gatherings.

Lunch © Spaswinefood

Needless to say lunch was filled with many tasty dishes.  It was a stellar lunch with excellent Covela wines and amazing Quevedo wines. One of the wines I tasted was Cláudia's wine. Here is how Quevedo described Cláudia's wine:

"Claudia’s wine is an expression of what Claudia, the winemaker together with Teresa, love most on each harvest. Claudia’s wine is a blend of grapes from different plots. They don’t follow the some (sic same) recipe every harvest as the vines don’t produce the same grapes every year. One thing we can assure, all our grapes are hand picked and treated as small treasures."

Quevedo Cláudia's 2013 © Spaswinefood

Quevedo also produce a wine called Oscar's wine, which I did not taste. However, let me not forget Quevedo's Port wines. I did taste an amazing Quevedo 30 Year Old White Port.

Quevedo 30 Year Old White Port © Spaswinefood

It was a heavenly just to taste this Quevedo 30 Year Old White Port wine.

Overall amongst the wines I tasted it was hard not to fall in love with Covela's Rosé and Quevedo's 30 Year Old White Port. 

Covela Rosé 2015 © Spaswinefood

Quevedo 30 Year Old White Port © Spaswinefood

I should not forget to say that I did admire seeing the Quevedo Port wines (Colheita, Tawny and Ruby).

Quevedo, Colheita  1996, 1997 and 2000 © Spaswinefood

Quevedo Tawny and Ruby Port © Spaswinefood

As you can see we were treated royally by our hosts. 

It was indeed a delightfully hot July day in the Douro Valley when I last visited here.

Swimmers, Douro Valley 2016 © Spaswinefood

Before leaving on such a hot day in July we took a dip in the Douro. It was a great way to cool down on a 38 degree Celsius day. Hot or not, no true wine enthusiast can get enough of the Douro. The Douro Valley port wines and its other wines sure leave a lasting impression. As always, all to soon it was time to leave the Douro, and its stunning valley views. 

During our Douro Valley wine travels we have always enjoyed venturing out and exploring quintas along the wine route.

Ruta do Vinho do Porto, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Living the dream is all about exploring Douro Valley quintas. Obviously, I have not scratched the surface on Douro Valley quintas. For sure the Douro Boys quintas is an absolute must. Without a doubt, returning to the Douro Valley is always a highlight of my wine travels in Portugal. For me, Douro Valley wines is a must for wine lovers. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Portugal and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.

CHEERS!

Sharon 

May 2023

Remembering Douro Valley, Portugal 

© Spaswinefood

Return to Quinta do Portal, 2023 © Spaswinefood

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