Whenever I think of Lombardy, I am immediately taken back to when we crossed the Po River into Oltrepò Pavese. October 2022, as a guest of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese, Pavia Province I would not only discover this region's wines but also, meet some of the women leading the way. Here's to celebrating the women of wine in Oltrepò Pavese. And YES, Oltrepò Pavese on a clear day you can see all the way to the Alps.
This article will focus on Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) wines from Conte Vistarino (Tenuta di Rocca De' Giorgi), and highlight Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino's leadership. In addition, I will share brief narratives of five other women who are working hard to showcase Oltrepò Pavese wines. Needless to say, I was inspired by the women of Oltrepò Pavese wine country.
Oltrepò Pavese Wine Stories
Oltrepò Pavese is home to stunning landscape. I soon discovered this, as we headed south of the Po River into hills and mountains. Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) the major grape variety grown here is used to make excellent sparkling and still red wines. The region is best know for its Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, with Cruase being its flagship wine. The list of its Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) wines includes: Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Cruase DOCG, and Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC.
I have decided to showcase Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) wines from Conte Vistarino (Tenuta di Rocca De' Giorgi) and highlight Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino's leadership. Also, I will share brief narratives of the following women: Valerie Radici Odero (Frecciarossa Winery), Giovannella Fugazzo (Castello Di Luzzano), Daniela Bellani (CA' Di FrarA Winery), Patrizia Torti (Torti Wines), and Cristina Cerri Comi (Tenuta Travaglino). Besides discovering Oltrepò Pavese wines my biggest take away was women in leadership roles.
Welcome to Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy © Spaswinefood
First, let me begin with an overview of Lombardy.
Welcome to Lombardy
Giovanna Pradini, our conference host, President of the Lombardy Wine Asociation ASCOVILO welcomed us to Lombardy, a large and geographically complex region, with 5 DOCG , 21 DOC and 15 IGP titles. Lombardy is home to a handful of popular and well-known wine styles including the bright, cherry-scented Valtellina and the high-quality sparkling wine of Franciacorta and Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico. The Oltrepo Pavese zone stands out among these as one of the larger, better-known regions, not only for its sparkling Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, but also for its other wines. Franciacorta, the second of Lombardy's two sparkling DOCG wines, is from the well-regarded vineyards between Brescia and Lake Iseo. One of the regions I explored in 2011 was Franciacorta; so I was very happy to return.
Conte Vistarino, Oltrepò Pavese
While Oltrepò Pavese stands out as one of the larger, better-known regions, for its sparkling Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, for the purpose of this article the primary focus is on its other wines. I have chosen to highlight Conte Vistarino Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC (Pinot Noir still wines). Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino at Conte Vistarino has become an advocate for Oltrepò Pavese's Pinot Nero wines. Hence let's take a look at 2018 Conte Vistarino, Tenuta di Rocca De' Giorgi Pinot Nero wines, from three different vineyards.
Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC
Let me introduce 2018 Conte Vistarino, Tenuta di Rocca De' Giorgi Pinot Nero wines, from three different vineyards. After introducing each wine I will share the recommendations for pairing.
1. Conte Vistarino, Bertone Pinot Nero 2018
Pairing recommended: First courses with ragù, fresh pasta filled with meat, rare red meats and fresh goat cheeses.
Ragù Vegetariano
Fresh Pasta (filled with meat or veggie options)
Fresh Pasta with Mushroom © Spaswinefood2. Conte Vistarino, Tavernetto Pinot Nero 2018
Tavernetto Pinot Nero 2018 © SpaswinefoodPairing Recommended: You should taste this wine with the breasted guinea fowl, or with Fegato alla Veneziana. The following are some links to recipes:
Guinea Fowl
- https://www.marlene.it/en/culinary-delight/recipes/18-guinea-fowl-breast.html
- https://www.greatbritishchefs.com/recipes/guinea-fowl-recipe-tomatoes-ham
Fegato alla Veneziana
- https://www.italianspoon.com.au/fegato-alla-veneziana-venetian-style-liver/
3. Conte Vistarino, Pernice Pinot Nero 2018
These three vineyards (Bertone, Tavernetto and Pernice) are small plots on different sides of the valley, between 350-400 meters above sea level. Pernice vineyard faces south-southeast, while Bertone and Tavernetto vineyards face south-southwest. Their soils are not homogeneous. They have a calcareous-clay base, with a variable percentage of sand and silt. Clearly, this winery produces top tier Pinot Nero still wines. These three 2018 Pinot Nero wines, which we tasted at Conte Vistarino, Tenuta di Rocca De' Giorgi were fabulous.
Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino, Conte Vistarino
While at Conte Vistarino we toured the winery, and then gathered around the tasting room table to explore their wines. While we did not met Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino, it was obvious, based on my research, that she is taking the family winery in a new direction by showcasing its Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC (Pinot Noir still wines) (as described by John Mariani).
The Giorgi di Vistarino Family, since the mid-15th century, has owned a large agricultural estate in the Rocca de’ Giorgi municipality of Oltrepò Pavese. Throughout the estate’s history the link between viticulture and terroir has been maintained, and as well they focused on preserving the landscape and wildlife. In 1850, Count Augusto Giorgi was the first person to plant Pinot Noir in the Oltrepò, later giving rise to Oltrepò Pavese’s great sparkling wine tradition. From the beginning to the current generation, led by Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino, the wine estate's vision remains the same: to better interpret the noble grape variety (Pinot Noir) by pursuing the highest quality while respecting the territory and its vocation.
In the 1990s Ottavia's father, Carlo Giorgi di Vistarino, introduced new Pinot Nero rootstocks and clones. They were carefully selected for red wine vinification, and precise production characteristics. During the last 25 years, after careful evaluation of the individual plots, more than half of the vineyards have been replanted. Major changes in both the vineyard and winery has resulted in the production of high quality wines. Based on the Conti Vistarino wines I tasted, and from what I have read Conte Vistarino under Ottavia's leadership is in good hands. She is one of the Le Donne del Vino (The Women of Wine) who taken charge in the wine world (see commentary by Ottavia).
More on Women Behind Oltrepò Pavese Wines
Let me share stories of the women making history that I met during my Spaswinefood's travels in Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese.
Valerie Radici Odero, Frecciarossa Winery
Oltrepò Pavese's Frecciarossa Winery is a place where you will immediately fall under the spell of this amazing place and its wines. I loved this place! Not only was it a beautiful setting with good wines but, our host Valeria also shared with us the winery's story, and introduced us to the family's winery. Her great grandfather, Mario Odero, originally from Genoa, founded the winery shortly after WW 1. He returned to Italy from the UK where he had spent most of his adult life working the coal trade between the UK and Italy. Upon his return to Italy he set his sights on buying property in the countryside. Oltrepò Pavese proved be a rather good decision because he fell in love with its rolling hills and vineyards. Valeria's grandfather, and her mother would continue to develop Frecciarossa over the years. These days Valeria brings her passion to managing Frecciarossa, which has been making wine since 1919.
During our visit we spent quality time with Valerie.
Giovannella Fugazzo, Castello Di Luzzano
Our first introduction to Oltrepò Pavese Pinot wines was at Castello Di Luzzano. Before wine tasting we toured this historic property. The Fugazzo family assumed ownership of the property in 1990's. Giovannella, our host during the visit, runs the estate.
We were first introduced to Oltrepò Pavese at Castello Di Luzzano, with a Magot Pinot Nero (Blanc de Noir), Oltrepò Pavese DOC.
Welcome to Castello Di Luzzano Wines © SpaswinefoodCastello Di Luzzano, Magot Pinot Nero (Blanc de Noir), Oltrepò Pavese DOC
Castello Di Luzzano, Magot Pinot Nero (Blanc de Noir), Oltrepò Pavese DOC © Spaswinefood
Magot means magic; so after tasting this magical bottle of sparkling Pinot Noir we were off to lunch at the Dogana Restaurant and Inn.
Giovannella not only runs the wine estate but also is a talented artist. We saw some of her art works on display during our visit. Her art works are carefully display throughout the tasting room.
Castillo Di Luzzano Wine Display © Spaswinefood
Our visit to Castello Di Luzzano was pure magic. Special thanks to our host The First Lady of Wine.
CA' Di FrarA Vineyard © Spaswinefood
Over the years, through the acquisition of vineyards, targeted clonal selections, cellar expansion, and with the use of new materials and winemaking techniques this has resulted in quality wines. Lombardy's CA' Di FrarA winery produces an excellent representation of Oltrepò Pavese wines. Daniela has been a big part of making this happen.
Patrizia Torti, Torti Wines
It was day's end when we arrived at the Torti family winery, Casaleggio. Torti Winery founded in 1910 has a long tradition of producing Oltrepo Pavese wines. Dino Torti and his daughters, Patrizia and Laura, continues the family tradition of winemaking, which was established by Dino's father and grandfather. Little did we know, we were about to discover that no one spoils you quite like Torti Wines does.
Soon we were gathered around a table being introduced to Torti family wines.
Welcome to Torti Wines © Spaswinefood
Dino Torti, Gran Carisma Pinot Nero Metodo Classico DOCG
Gran Carisma Pinot Nero Metodo Classico DOCG © Spaswinefood
Patrizia concluded our visit to her family winery with a special bottle of sparking wine, a Gran Carisma DOCG Pinot Nero Metodo Classico Dino Torti.
Dino and Patrizia, Torti Winery © Spaswinefood
The above wine is an excellent example of the Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG sparkling wines. As I noted earlier Oltrepò Pavese is home to stunning landscape. Torti Vineyards are a part of that welcoming vineyard landscape.
Patrizia's passion for Torti Wines meant we were treated to a first class experience. We went off into the night to meet with more producers.
Cristina Cerri Comi, Tenuta Travaglino
Dinner was a great way to meet producers whose wineries we could not visit. On the second evening I happen to sit next to a young woman who is managing Tenuta Travaglino.
That evening I enjoyed chatted with her about the future Tenute Travaglino, and the wines that were introduced.
Tenute Travaglino, Barbera Campo Dei Ciliegi Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018
Barbera wine is made from Barbera grapes (85-100%) and other varietals to a maximum of 15%. It is produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Barbera DOC.
Tenute Travaglino, Mercantonio Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC 2019
Le Donne Del Vino: More on the Women of Lombardy Wine County
An earlier #WMC22 session Le Donne del Vino titled Le Donne del Vino: Women wine stories of creativity. A Blind Tasting Discovery Session sponsored by Ascovilo with speaker Laura Donadoni (The Italian Wine Gal). Panel opened with Donatella Cinelli Colombini, President of Le Donne Del Vino (Video). A panel discussion followed with Cristina Scarpellini of Tenuta Scerscé, President of Fondazione ProVinea, and Francesca Pagnoncelli Folcieri of Cantina Pagnoncelli Folcieri, President of Consorzio del Moscato di Scanzo, and moderater Luciana Rota from Oltrepò Pavese Consortium.
Discovery Session: Le Donne del Vino © Spaswinefood
I not only had the opportunity to attend this session but also I met women winery owners and/or in leadership positions throughout the conference.
Giovanna Pradini, our conference host, President of the Lombardy Wine Asociation ASCOVILO, was always there to help us discover the faces behind the Lombardy wines. For me, it was the women making history in Lombardy's Oltrepo Pavese that stood out. Some of the best women in wine stories were shared around the lunch and dinner tables throughout my Lombardy travels.
Oltrepò Pavese Wine Stories © Spaswinefood
Tasting Room, Conte Vistarino © Spaswinefood
- Gwendolyn our host this month from The Wine Predator wrote, “Visiting Lombardy’s Lugana DOC: Selva Capuzza and Cà dei Frati Wines Plus Pumpkin Ravioli #ItalianFWT”
- On Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon posts about “Lombardy’s Oltrepò Pavese wines and stories of the women behind them”
- Susannah Gold shares “Mountain Wine from the Valcamonica, A New Discovery” on Avvinare.com
- Camilla Mann says “‘Ci Vediamo Presto!’ with a Franciacorta Sparkler + a Favorite Brinner” on Culinary Cam
- Robin Bell Renken shares “Moscato di Scanzo and the Pharmacist’s Daughter”on Crushed Grape Chronicles
- Wendy Klik has “La Pappardella Croatina served with the Pasta for which it is named” on A Day In The Life on the Farm
- Susannah Gold writes Mountain Wine from Valcamonica, A New Discovery
