Monday, October 30, 2023

Xinomavro: What a wine journey

Xinomavro has been an exciting wine journey for me. Let me begin with vignettes from my most recent travels in Greece centered around #Winelover Anniversary Celebrations June, 2022. This will be followed by earlier vignettes celebrating Xinomavro, dating back to 2015.

Winesisters, Cinque Wine Bar, Athens, Greece, June 2022 © Spaswinefood

First, let me pay tribute to Evangelie and Greg, at Cinque Wine Bar who have contributed over the years to my inquiry into Xinomavro and other Greek Wines. 

Thanks Cinque Wine Bar, Athens, Greece, June 2022 © Spaswinefood
#Winelovers, Cinque Wine Bar, February 2016 © Spaswinefood

Let the wine stories begin!

North Greece, June 2022

Naoussa's Kir-Yianni was on my list when I returned to North Greece in June, 2022. Kir-Yianni estate was founded in 1977 by Yiannis Boutaris. Since 1999 the winery has been under the direction of Yiannis's son, Stellios Boutaris. Stellios took over as winemaker and CEO. The winery now produces over one million bottles a year from two adjacent, but very different, PDO regions (Naoussa and Amnydeon)

Kir-Yianni, Naoussa, June 2022 © Spaswinefood

Kir-Yianni Winery is beautifully situated, surrounded by vineyards. As we drove down the road towards the winery I was excited to return after my first visit here in 2015.

Kir-Yianni, June 2022 © Spaswinefood

The evening before arriving in Naoussa we attended a wine tasting in Thessaloniki


Thessaloniki, June 2022 © Spaswinefood


Amongst the wines there were many options to explore from the Winemakers of North Greece. Since I am a big fan of Xinomavro I focused on these wines.


Blind Wine Tasting, Thessaloniki © Spaswinefood


One of my discoveries at this tasting was the rich diversity of Xinomavro wines (red, rosé, and sparkling). I believe this was the perfect welcome back to North Greece. While I was busy checking out Xinomavro my friend Carol discovered Malagousa but that is another wine story. North Greece has many wine stories. 

Indeed I have fond memories of the wines and that evening in Thessaloniki. A hit for me was definitely the 2018 Blanc de Noir Xinomavro, PGI Imathia. I also got to meet the oenologist who made the wine.


Chatting with the Oenologist, Thessaloniki © Spaswinefood


It was a warm welcome to North Greece!


Kir-Yianni: A Naoussa Story


Kir-Yianni in Naoussa was a delight to revisit. After all, the Naoussa Appellation was the first Greek wine region to be made an official appellation in 1971. Wines produced in Naoussa are required by appellation law to be made from 100% Xinomavro. Yes, that noble indigenous red grape variety. Moreover, some producers make wines from the international grape varieties, such Merlot and Syrah. These wines because of appellation law, are marketed under the Macedonia PGI label. One of my take aways from my recent visit to North Greece was the amazing range and diversity of Xinomavro wines (both PDO and PGIavailable. Clearly, there are many exciting wine developments in Naoussa these days. Ktima Kir-Yianni is indeed part of this adventure. The influence of this Naoussa winery continues to inspire wine making in Naoussa and beyond.


Naoussa Wine Country © Spaswinefood


When I planned our Naoussa wine country adventure of course I just had to stop by Ktima Kir-Yianni Kir-Yianni's story began when Yiannis Boutaris acquired 50 hectares in 1968. The first Xinomavro vines were planted in the 1970's. This initiated the production of terroir wines. Research has since suggested that Naoussa has the potential of being divided into 13 different sub-zones, representing the rich terroir diversity of the region.

Arriving at Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood

Onto Kitma Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood

It was a beautiful June day when we arrived at  Kir-Yianni. As we drove towards the winery we passed through the vineyard.

Entrance to Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood
Welcome to Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood
Kir-Yianni Winery © Spaswinefood

It was good to return and discover that Kir-Yianni recently added a restaurant.

Welcome to Kir-Yianni
Xinomavro Lineup, Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood

Tasting Kir-Yianni Xinomavro © Spaswinefood

I focused on tasting their Xinomavro wines. This inviting line-up of wines showcased the wide range of Xinomavro wines being produced by Kir-Yianni. While at Kir-Yianni we also enjoyed a very delicious lunch in their restaurant. 


Domaine Foundi 

My June 2022 wine travels in North Greece took me to Domaine Foundi, located just 4 km outside of  the town Naoussa. This small family winery that has been producing wine since 1992. Their focus is on producing quality Xinomavro wines. My Greek friends know that I am a big fan of Xinomavro since I was first introduced to this wine in 2015; hence when Alexandra recommend this Naoussa winery I had to visit.

Tasting Xinomavro at Domaine Foundi © Spaswinefood

I was happy to sit down with Georgia Foundi and taste Domaine Foundi wines.  I loved their Xinomavro's. All the wines I tasted were 100% Xinomavro.


Domaine Foundi Xinomavro Wines © Spaswinefood

Georgia Foundi is representative of the women who work hard to support smaller boutique wineries.

Athens, June 2022 #Winelover Anniversary Celebrations

Later in Athens, the first of day of our #Winelover Anniversary Celebrations, June 2022 ended with dinner on the rooftop at Manouka Restaurant. While the clouds blocked out the sunset that evening the ever changing views of the Acropolis were stunning. 


Acropolis at Night Fall, Greece © Spaswinefood


While dining we were treated to delicious wines from Northern Greece. Northern Greece is a top travel destination for wine enthusiasts. Travelers along the Wine Roads of North Greece will soon discover great wines and food, and amazing hospitality. Northern Greece, the homeland of Alexander the Great, has been making wine since the dawn of civilization.  The wines that evening took us on a wine safari along Northern Greece's wine roads.

Manouka Restaurant, Athens, Greece © Spaswinefood


For sure all winelovers had great views that evening.

Our Table, Manouka Restaurant © Spaswinefood


For sure it was the perfect ending to a vine-filled day.

Acropolis from the Roof Top of Manouka Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Later in the week at a BYOB at Cinque Alexandra shared more wines.

Sharing Wines from North Greece © Spaswinefood

Xinomavro's from Alpha Estate & Ki-Yianni © Spaswinefood

Those who have yet discover 
North Greece wines now is the time. 

 Acknowledging Alexandra's Contribution to 10th #Winelover Anniversary © Spaswinefood 

Besides the wine gatherings along the way since 2015 I have had other opportunities to share Greek wines with others, and a special cat called Xinomavro.

Xinomavro (the cat) meets Xinomavro (the wine), 2015 © Spaswinefood

Xinomavro (Ksee NOH mah vroh), a red grape, which has gained "red hot" attention in recent years. Many are now discovering that these grapes make excellent wines. If you have not tried them yet then you really need to track them down.

Of course Xinomavro (aka Xino), the cat has continued to check out and approved the wines at our house.


 Adapted from a Spaswinefood 2016 Article 

Perhaps the story begins with the Greek god of wine, Dionysus bringing some Xinomavro to Goddess Athena at the Parthenon. Recently however, Xinomavro (Ksee NOH mah vroh) that noble Greek red wine has gained attention. This lady in red has been putting on quite a show. To say that the wines produced from this grape are diverse and/or complex is an understatement. This is not just because of the varying terroir but also wine styles. Also, let’s not forget the winemaker who leaves his/her signature upon the wine. Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Maybe Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806-1866) would approve of my love affair with Xinomavro.

Parthenon, Acropolis © Spaswinefood

After a quick visit to the Parthenon, the temple of the Greek Goddess Athena, we were off to Northern Greece. Northern Greece’s Naoussa is home to Xinomavro, the indigenous red grape. It is required by appellation law for Naoussa wines to be made from 100% Xinomavro. The excitement that Xinomavro has been generating recently is largely due to an ongoing experimentation with wine styles. Tara G. Thomas writing for Wine & Spirits notes "Between the new players that have entered the field and the established producers refining their approach, Naoussa is at a crossroads, redefining itself." Moreover, some producers have begun making wines from the international grape varieties, such Merlot and Syrah. These wines are marketed under the Macedonia PGI label. Clearly, there are many exciting developments in Naoussa these days. To add to this excitement there are other regions producing outstanding Xinomavro wines.

The Rich Diversity of Xinomavro Wines
My first introduction to Xinomavro was not from Naoussa but from Tsantali’s Rapsani vineyards. Then during the Fall 2015 while in Northern Greece, I was introduced to Rapsani vintages (Rapsani Reserve wines 1997-2005 and 2007-2011)The Tsantali family, which has been producing wines since 1890, acquired the Rapsani Mount Olympus Vineyards in 1991. There the indigenous red grapes Xinomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto are grown for the production of Rapsani, a blend of these three grapes. 
Tsantali’s Rapsani Vineyards © Spaswinefood
That day our hosts also provided the most wonderful collection of local Greek cheeses to go along with the wine tasting. After the wine tasting we had a late lunch in the nearby town.  Months later at the farewell dinner for the #Winelover 4th Anniversary in Athens amongst the special wines poured that evening was a Rapsani Grand Reserve 2009.
Tsantali’s Rapsani Grand Reserve 2009 © Spaswinefood
Yes, it was well worth the wait.
Kitma Kir-Yianni Vineyard © Spaswinefood

On the same trip I also tasted outstanding Xinomavro wines at Boutari, Ktima Kir-Yianni, Averoff and Alpha Estate. Actually Boutari Winery, Stenimahos was my first introduction to the Naoussa wine region
Boutari, 1897 Xinomavro, Single Vineyard Naoussa 2007 © Spaswinefood

Our next stop was Kitma Kir-Yianni where the wine tasting included an amazing diversity of Xinomavro wines from Naoussa and Amyndeon. 

Kitma Kir-Yianni Wines © Spaswinefood

While at the Averoff Winery, Metsovo we were introduced to a Xinomavro from Rountina Vineyards, Naoussa. 

Averoff Winery, Xinomavro Naoussa 2011 © Spaswinefood

What a fabulous first-hand introduction to Naoussa's Wine Road it was. Once you have been introduced to Naoussa’s Xinomavro wines you know why “Xinomavro is on Fire”.

Later when we tasted Alpha Estate in Ampelia there were a number of Xinomavro wines in the lineup. 
Alpha Estate Wines © Spaswinefood

Angelos Iatridis, winemaker and co-proprietor took us on a tour of Alpha's vineyards. Angelos and his partner Makis Mavridis, a viticulturist, established Alpha Estate in the scenic Amyndeon wine region of Northwest Greece.
Posing with Angelos, Alpha Estate © Spaswinefood
Alpha Estate's Xinomavro wines left me with a lasting impression. The winemaker has definitely left his mark on these wines.

Xinomavro on Fire
Moreover, I was fortunate to attend a Masters Class on Xinomavro at #dwcc15 in Plovdiv, Bulgaria. 
Xinomavro on Fire © Spaswinefood

The class given by Yiannis Karakasis and Gregory Michailos included an amazing lineup of Xinomavro wines from Amyndeon, Naoussa, Goumenissa and Rapsani.

First Flight, Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood
Second Flight, Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood
Second Flight (top view), Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood

While some of the wineries were familiar to me a few were new, such as Tastis Estate, Goumenissa. Clearly Northern Greece is home to amazing Xinomavro wines.

Now the question, "Is Xinomavro on Fire?" My answer is YESObviously everyone forms their opinion of Xinomavro wines based on their palate preferences. Nevertheless, there is such an amazing diversity that most will choose one or more to be their favorite(s).

Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. As to counting the ways, for me the journey is to be continued. I know that there will be a Greek goddess/god calling me soon to taste more Xinomavro wines.  I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 


Sharon
© Spaswinefood

Naoussa, North Greece 2022 © Spaswinefood

NOTE: The above vignettes have been adapted my earlier posts in Spaswinefood and Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon .

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