Xinomavro: What a wine journey

Xinomavro has been an exciting wine journey for me. Let me begin with vignettes from my most recent travels in Greece centered around #Winelover Anniversary Celebrations June, 2022. This will be followed by earlier vignettes celebrating Xinomavro, dating back to 2015.

Winesisters, Cinque Wine Bar, Athens, Greece, June 2022 © Spaswinefood

First, let me pay tribute to Evangelie and Greg, at Cinque Wine Bar who have contributed over the years to my inquiry into Xinomavro and other Greek Wines. 

Thanks Cinque Wine Bar, Athens, Greece, June 2022 © Spaswinefood

#Winelovers, Cinque Wine Bar, February 2016 © Spaswinefood

Let the wine stories begin!

North Greece, June 2022

Naoussa's Kir-Yianni was on my list when I returned to North Greece in June, 2022. Kir-Yianni estate was founded in 1977 by Yiannis Boutaris. Since 1999 the winery has been under the direction of Yiannis's son, Stellios Boutaris. Stellios took over as winemaker and CEO. The winery now produces over one million bottles a year from two adjacent, but very different, PDO regions (Naoussa and Amnydeon). 

Kir-Yianni, Naoussa, June 2022 © Spaswinefood

Kir-Yianni Winery is beautifully situated, surrounded by vineyards. As we drove down the road towards the winery I was excited to return after my first visit here in 2015.

Kir-Yianni, June 2022 © Spaswinefood

The evening before arriving in Naoussa we attended a wine tasting in Thessaloniki. 

Thessaloniki, June 2022 © Spaswinefood

Amongst the wines there were many options to explore from the Winemakers of North Greece. Since I am a big fan of Xinomavro I focused on these wines.

Blind Wine Tasting, Thessaloniki © Spaswinefood

One of my discoveries at this tasting was the rich diversity of Xinomavro wines (red, rosé, and sparkling). I believe this was the perfect welcome back to North Greece. While I was busy checking out Xinomavro my friend Carol discovered Malagousa but that is another wine story. North Greece has many wine stories. 

Indeed I have fond memories of the wines and that evening in Thessaloniki. A hit for me was definitely the 2018 Blanc de Noir Xinomavro, PGI Imathia. I also got to meet the oenologist who made the wine.

Chatting with the Oenologist, Thessaloniki © Spaswinefood

It was a warm welcome to North Greece!

Kir-Yianni: A Naoussa Story

Kir-Yianni in Naoussa was a delight to revisit. After all, the Naoussa Appellation was the first Greek wine region to be made an official appellation in 1971. Wines produced in Naoussa are required by appellation law to be made from 100% Xinomavro. Yes, that noble indigenous red grape variety. Moreover, some producers make wines from the international grape varieties, such Merlot and Syrah. These wines because of appellation law, are marketed under the Macedonia PGI label. One of my take aways from my recent visit to North Greece was the amazing range and diversity of Xinomavro wines (both PDO and PGI) available. Clearly, there are many exciting wine developments in Naoussa these days. Ktima Kir-Yianni is indeed part of this adventure. The influence of this Naoussa winery continues to inspire wine making in Naoussa and beyond.

Naoussa Wine Country © Spaswinefood

When I planned our Naoussa wine country adventure of course I just had to stop by Ktima Kir-Yianni.  Kir-Yianni's story began when Yiannis Boutaris acquired 50 hectares in 1968. The first Xinomavro vines were planted in the 1970's. This initiated the production of terroir wines. Research has since suggested that Naoussa has the potential of being divided into 13 different sub-zones, representing the rich terroir diversity of the region.

Arriving at Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood

Onto Kitma Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood

It was a beautiful June day when we arrived at  Kir-Yianni. As we drove towards the winery we passed through the vineyard.

Entrance to Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood

Kir-Yianni Winery © Spaswinefood

It was good to return and discover that Kir-Yianni recently added a restaurant.

Welcome to Kir-Yianni

Xinomavro Lineup, Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood

Tasting Kir-Yianni Xinomavro © Spaswinefood

I focused on tasting their Xinomavro wines. This inviting line-up of wines showcased the wide range of Xinomavro wines being produced by Kir-Yianni. While at Kir-Yianni we also enjoyed a very delicious lunch in their restaurant. 

Domaine Foundi 

My June 2022 wine travels in North Greece took me to Domaine Foundi, located just 4 km outside of  the town Naoussa. This small family winery that has been producing wine since 1992. Their focus is on producing quality Xinomavro wines. My Greek friends know that I am a big fan of Xinomavro since I was first introduced to this wine in 2015; hence when Alexandra recommend this Naoussa winery I had to visit.

Tasting Xinomavro at Domaine Foundi © Spaswinefood

I was happy to sit down with Georgia Foundi and taste Domaine Foundi wines.  I loved their Xinomavro's. All the wines I tasted were 100% Xinomavro.

Domaine Foundi Xinomavro Wines © Spaswinefood

Georgia Foundi is representative of the women who work hard to support smaller boutique wineries.

Athens, June 2022 #Winelover Anniversary Celebrations

Later in Athens, the first of day of our #Winelover Anniversary Celebrations, June 2022 ended with dinner on the rooftop at Manouka Restaurant. While the clouds blocked out the sunset that evening the ever changing views of the Acropolis were stunning. 

Acropolis at Night Fall, Greece © Spaswinefood

While dining we were treated to delicious wines from Northern Greece. Northern Greece is a top travel destination for wine enthusiasts. Travelers along the Wine Roads of North Greece will soon discover great wines and food, and amazing hospitality. Northern Greece, the homeland of Alexander the Great, has been making wine since the dawn of civilization.  The wines that evening took us on a wine safari along Northern Greece's wine roads.

Manouka Restaurant, Athens, Greece © Spaswinefood

For sure all winelovers had great views that evening.

Our Table, Manouka Restaurant © Spaswinefood

For sure it was the perfect ending to a vine-filled day.

Acropolis from the Roof Top of Manouka Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Later in the week at a BYOB at Cinque Alexandra shared more wines.

Sharing Wines from North Greece © Spaswinefood

Xinomavro's from Alpha Estate & Ki-Yianni © Spaswinefood

Those who have yet discover North Greece wines now is the time. 

 Acknowledging Alexandra's Contribution to 10th #Winelover Anniversary © Spaswinefood 

Besides the wine gatherings along the way since 2015 I have had other opportunities to share Greek wines with others, and a special cat called Xinomavro.

Xinomavro (the cat) meets Xinomavro (the wine), 2015 © Spaswinefood

Xinomavro (Ksee NOH mah vroh), a red grape, which has gained "red hot" attention in recent years. Many are now discovering that these grapes make excellent wines. If you have not tried them yet then you really need to track them down.

Of course Xinomavro (aka Xino), the cat has continued to check out and approved the wines at our house.

 Adapted from a Spaswinefood 2016 Article 

Perhaps the story begins with the Greek god of wine, Dionysus bringing some Xinomavro to Goddess Athena at the Parthenon. Recently however, Xinomavro (Ksee NOH mah vroh) that noble Greek red wine has gained attention. This lady in red has been putting on quite a show. To say that the wines produced from this grape are diverse and/or complex is an understatement. This is not just because of the varying terroir but also wine styles. Also, let’s not forget the winemaker who leaves his/her signature upon the wine. Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Maybe Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806-1866) would approve of my love affair with Xinomavro.

Parthenon, Acropolis © Spaswinefood

After a quick visit to the Parthenon, the temple of the Greek Goddess Athena, we were off to Northern Greece. Northern Greece’s Naoussa is home to Xinomavro, the indigenous red grape. It is required by appellation law for Naoussa wines to be made from 100% Xinomavro. The excitement that Xinomavro has been generating recently is largely due to an ongoing experimentation with wine styles. Tara G. Thomas writing for Wine & Spirits notes "Between the new players that have entered the field and the established producers refining their approach, Naoussa is at a crossroads, redefining itself." Moreover, some producers have begun making wines from the international grape varieties, such Merlot and Syrah. These wines are marketed under the Macedonia PGI label. Clearly, there are many exciting developments in Naoussa these days. To add to this excitement there are other regions producing outstanding Xinomavro wines.

The Rich Diversity of Xinomavro Wines
My first introduction to Xinomavro was not from Naoussa but from Tsantali’s Rapsani vineyards. Then during the Fall 2015 while in Northern Greece, I was introduced to Rapsani vintages (Rapsani Reserve wines 1997-2005 and 2007-2011). The Tsantali family, which has been producing wines since 1890, acquired the Rapsani Mount Olympus Vineyards in 1991. There the indigenous red grapes Xinomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto are grown for the production of Rapsani, a blend of these three grapes. 

Tsantali’s Rapsani Vineyards © Spaswinefood

That day our hosts also provided the most wonderful collection of local Greek cheeses to go along with the wine tasting. After the wine tasting we had a late lunch in the nearby town.  Months later at the farewell dinner for the #Winelover 4th Anniversary in Athens amongst the special wines poured that evening was a Rapsani Grand Reserve 2009.

Tsantali’s Rapsani Grand Reserve 2009 © Spaswinefood

Yes, it was well worth the wait.

Kitma Kir-Yianni Vineyard © Spaswinefood

On the same trip I also tasted outstanding Xinomavro wines at Boutari, Ktima Kir-Yianni, Averoff and Alpha Estate. Actually Boutari Winery, Stenimahos was my first introduction to the Naoussa wine region. 

Boutari, 1897 Xinomavro, Single Vineyard Naoussa 2007 © Spaswinefood

Our next stop was Kitma Kir-Yianni where the wine tasting included an amazing diversity of Xinomavro wines from Naoussa and Amyndeon. 

Kitma Kir-Yianni Wines © Spaswinefood

While at the Averoff Winery, Metsovo we were introduced to a Xinomavro from Rountina Vineyards, Naoussa. 

Averoff Winery, Xinomavro Naoussa 2011 © Spaswinefood

What a fabulous first-hand introduction to Naoussa's Wine Road it was. Once you have been introduced to Naoussa’s Xinomavro wines you know why “Xinomavro is on Fire”.

Later when we tasted Alpha Estate in Ampelia there were a number of Xinomavro wines in the lineup. 

Alpha Estate Wines © Spaswinefood

Angelos Iatridis, winemaker and co-proprietor took us on a tour of Alpha's vineyards. Angelos and his partner Makis Mavridis, a viticulturist, established Alpha Estate in the scenic Amyndeon wine region of Northwest Greece.

Posing with Angelos, Alpha Estate © Spaswinefood

Alpha Estate's Xinomavro wines left me with a lasting impression. The winemaker has definitely left his mark on these wines.

Xinomavro on Fire
Moreover, I was fortunate to attend a Masters Class on Xinomavro at #dwcc15 in Plovdiv, Bulgaria. 

Xinomavro on Fire © Spaswinefood

The class given by Yiannis Karakasis and Gregory Michailos included an amazing lineup of Xinomavro wines from Amyndeon, Naoussa, Goumenissa and Rapsani.

First Flight, Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood

Second Flight, Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood

Second Flight (top view), Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood

While some of the wineries were familiar to me a few were new, such as Tastis Estate, Goumenissa. Clearly Northern Greece is home to amazing Xinomavro wines.

Now the question, "Is Xinomavro on Fire?" My answer is YES. Obviously everyone forms their opinion of Xinomavro wines based on their palate preferences. Nevertheless, there is such an amazing diversity that most will choose one or more to be their favorite(s).

Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. As to counting the ways, for me the journey is to be continued. I know that there will be a Greek goddess/god calling me soon to taste more Xinomavro wines.  I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

Sharon

© Spaswinefood

Naoussa, North Greece 2022 © Spaswinefood

NOTE: The above vignettes have been adapted my earlier posts in Spaswinefood and Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon .

Follow me on Twitter and Facebook

Okanagan Valley's Phantom Creek Estates: A wine estate to watch

Our visit to Phantom Creek Estates was the perfect opportunity to discover an Okanagan Valley winery, positioning itself to set a benchmark in Canadian viticulture and winemaking. This is not only an attention grabbing wine estate but also, it has enlisted some of the best in the field to be part of its wine team. I was excited to learn about this up and coming Okanagan Valley winery.

Phantom Creek Estates, Okanagan Valley © Spaswinefood

Phantom Creek Estates

This much anticipated winery opened in 2020. It all began in 2016 when the Richter Bai family of Richmond, British Columbia, bought Phantom Creek and Becker Vineyards to accomplish a dream of owning an Okanagan Valley winery, allowing Bai to explore his love of Bordeaux-style wine. Summer 2017 the construction of the 45,000-square foot winery began. That same year Phantom Creek shocked the Canadian wine world by hiring superstar Alsatian winemaker Olivier Humbrecht as a consulting winemaker. Humbrecht is France's first Master of Wine, and owner of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, one of the most prestigious wineries in Alsace. He is also President of Biodyvin, a European biodynamic certifying body. He will oversee white wine production, and the conversion of Phantom Creek’s vineyards to organic and biodynamic growing. 

Phantom Creek Estates has assembled an impressive wine team. In 2021 Mark Beringer was hired as  Director of Winemaking. The great-great-grandson of Napa’s Beringer Vineyards founding brother Jacob Beringer. Mark followed in the footsteps of his forefathers, by receiving an Enology degree from California State University, Fresno. Beringer spent a year working in the cellars at Benziger Family Winery, Sonoma. He joined Duckhorn Vineyards as an enologist in 1992, working his way up to Vice President of Winemaking.  In 2009, he joined Artesa as Vice President and Winemaker. In 2015, Mark returned to his namesake Beringer Vineyards, as Chief Winemaker. As Phantom Creek Estates Director of Winemaking he will work closely with Luke MacKinnon, Winemaker for Red Wines and Karin Grosstessner-Hain, Winemaker for White Wines. 

Other Phantom Creek Estates key players include Richards and Mateo. Amy Richards, Director of Farming, Australian viticulturist of the year in 2011, relocated to California in 2015 to manage the portfolio of Napa Valley grower contracts, before moving to the Okanagan. Phantom Creek Estates recently announced the appointment of François Mateo, as Managing Director.

To add to a state of the art facility, and an impressive wine team Phantom Creek Estates has acquired some of Okanagan Valley's best vineyards.

Phantom Creek Estates, Black Sage Road © Spaswinefood

Vineyards of Phantom Creek Estates

One of Phantom Creek's goals is to produce exceptional wines from historic vineyards. Within the Okanagan Valley's short wine history Becker, Phantom Creek and Kobau vineyards have gained attention. They are all part of Phantom Creek Estates. The Becker Vineyard, know as the Becker Project, is where Helmut Becker in the late 1970s, planted 33 traditional European grape varieties to see the results. In 1993, he introduced red Bordeaux varieties, which have become synonymous with South Okanagan wines. The Phantom Creek Vineyard is where viticulturist Richard Cleve planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah in 1996; this site has since made wines of international acclaim.  Phantom Creek Vineyard is recognized for producing some of the best red wines in Canada. The vineyard is located on the lower terrace of the southwest-facing Black Sage Bench. Wines from this site have garnered over 85 awards in recent history. Across from the Black Sage Bench, on the Golden Mile Bench sub-GI, the Kobau Vineyard was planted with Cabernet, Syrah and Viognier in 2005. Moreover, Phantom Creek Estates recently has expanded its vineyard holdings to the southerly Similkameen Valley, and the Skaha Bench sub-GI. All of this prime vineyard offers the kind of potential for establishing the next benchmark in winemaking.  

Phantom Creek Estates, Okanagan Valley © Spaswinefood

The winery’s estate vineyards, including the acclaimed Phantom Creek Vineyard, are being farmed organically and biodynamically. They achieved organic certification for their vineyards (a three year process that started in 2017). They have also been doing Biodynamic practices from the beginning however, this certification typically takes another three years after organic certification. By careful farming  Phantom Creek Estates will produce wines that celebrate a sense of place.

Welcome to Phantom Creek Estates

Phantom Creek Estates specializes in single vineyard Bordeaux reds, Alsatian whites and the Okanagan’s benchmark varieties of Viognier and Syrah. While some of the estate's vineyards have been producing wines for some time, the first inaugural vintage under the Phantom Creek Estates label was in 2016. 

Welcome to Phantom Creek Estates © Spaswinefood

James Nevison, a columnist with The Province, June 2022 described as Phantom Creek Estates as a destination winery: 

What makes for a destination winery? Admittedly, it’s subjective. But providing a “wow factor” offers a good start, and there’s no denying the grandiose stature of Phantom Creek Estates. Fortunately, the wines in the bottle live up to the hype — marble sculptures, extravagantly elegant barrel room and VIP tasting room — and see the same level of attention to detail. Their Pinot Gris, for example, is fermented with Indigenous yeasts and rests 16 months in large-scale oak foudres, creating an amazingly layered nose of honeyed orchard fruit, flowers and subtle oak. It’s complex yet balanced and approachable, an elegant fish and seafood partner.

Phantom Creek Estates is clearly positioning itself to showcase not only the best of Okanagan Valley's Bordeaux-style wines but also, white wines. 

Through the Vines, Phantom Creek Estates © Spaswinefood

Upon arrival we were pleasantly welcomed by the tasting room staff.

Wine Tasting, Phantom Creek Estates © Spaswinefood

Our wine tasting experience here was excellent. We not only enjoyed the wines but also, had a knowledgeable hostess. I look forward to reviews of future wine releases from Phantom Creek Estates. Phantom Creek Estates has a winery restaurant that I would love to visit in the future.

Why the Okanagan Valley?

Bai could have built a winery anywhere in the world. Yet, he chose to create Phantom Creek Estates in the Okanagan Valley, where 86% of the British Columbia's vineyard acreage is located. In case you are wondering viticultural regions are defined in British Columbia as areas of Geographic Indication (GI). The Okanagan Valley is one of British Columbia's nine GIs. The GIs participate in a Vitners Quality Allicance (VQA), an appellation of origin that is modeled after the European system. An Okanagan VQA certifies a wine is from this region and meets the quality standards.

The Okanagan Valley GI is very diverse with eleven official sub-regions, each defined by its distinct soil and climate conditions. They include: Golden Mile Bench, Golden Mile Slopes, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls Skaha Bench, East Kelowna Slopes, Lake Country, South Kelowna Slopes, Summerland Bench, Summerland Lakefront and Summerland Valleys. Phantom Creek Estates vineyards represent some of the best sub-regions within the Okanagan Valley GI. Given the careful planning behind this wine estate it could very well become a Future Star on the list of the World's Greatest Wine Estates.

Phantom Creek Estates, Black Sage © Spaswinefood

Each year the Okanagan Valley gets thousands of visitors seeking the best in wine and cuisine. Since the late 1980's I have had the pleasure of visiting this area. I have watched it transform from primarily a fruit growing region, to one of the top wine regions in North America. Wines of BC lists 1,234 vineyards and 341 wineries in British Columbia, with over 200 of them in the Okanagan Valley. These days the Okanagan Valley is showcasing its wines to the world. Given this impressive wine estate has enlisted some of the best in the field to be part of its wine team, Phantom Creek Estates has clearly joined that effort. In fact visiting it reminded me of our 2020 visit to Uruguay's extraordinary wine estate, Bodega Garzón.

Phantom Creek Estates © Spaswinefood

Phantom Creek Estates, with its state of the art facility, impressive wine team, and some of the best Okanagan Valley vineyards, is on the list of wineries to watch. Without a doubt, returning to the Okanagan Valley was an highlight of my 2023 wine travels in British Columbia. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Okanagan Valley and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my vine-filled explorations in the Okanagan Valley. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

June 2023

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia 

© Spaswinefood

Follow me on Twitter and Facebook

Phantom Creek Estates, Okanagan Valley © Spaswinefood

Phantom Creek Estates © Spaswinefood

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, June 2023 © Spaswinefood