Villanterio country house, a hidden gem along the route

Our Italian wine travels were filled with many pleasant surprises. When finishing up our travels we decided to take two days to drive back from Umbria back to Milan to catch our return flight home. In preparation for my travels I usually take time when booking a hotel to avoid disappoint. It does not always work however, in this case it sure did. Our first stop was in Modena at Hotel Real Fini Baia del Rei, and the second was in Villanterio, where we stayed at Agriturismo Relais Tenuta il Cigno, a country house in Villanterio. Villanterio, Pavia, just 25 km south of Milan, was so convenient for us. We particularly loved the fact that it was not far from the Milan Airport. Our stopover, was not only convenient, but also filled with pleasant surprises. For sure this Villanterio country house is a hidden gem for those looking for something beyond a regular hotel experience. Let's find out why!

Relais Tenuta il Cigno di Villanterio, Pavia © Spaswinefood

Relaxing Countryside at Relais Tenuta il Cigno © Spaswinefood

A Villanterio Country House Stay

Upon arrival we check into our room and discovered the most relaxing setting.

Countryside Guest House © Spaswinefood

Yes, I knew there would be horses here. During our visit to Relais Tenuta il Cigno di Villanterio we discovered that it is also a place for retired racing horses. Varenne, the horse that won the most in the history of world trotting, after his retirement from racing, became a breeding stallion at this Pavia estate. It was exciting to discover this.

Horses, Relais Tenuta il Cigno © Spaswinefood

Perfect Place to Graze, Relais Tenuta il Cigno © Spaswinefood

Time to Graze, Relais Tenuta il Cigno © Spaswinefood

It is a Fun Area to Explore

Besides checking out the horses, guests can take horse rides and explore. They also keep other animals on the property, such as two donkeys, one of which is a large donkey with an amazing personality. 

Given we arrived outside the tourist season their restaurant was not opened. Our host suggested we give Trattoria Nuova SAS a try. We were not disappointed. 

Trattoria Nuova © Spaswinefood

That day we decided to give a Prosecco on their wine list a try. 

Dogarina, Prosecco Superiore Brut Millesimato, Valodobbiadene DOC 2021 © Spaswinefood

Prosecco Time © Spaswinefood

Since we always enjoy a Caprese Salad it was an easy choice. 

Caprese Salad © Spaswinefood

Of course a fish platter for John and a veggie pasta for me.

Fish Plate © Spaswinefood

Veggie Pasta © Spaswinefood

Yes, a gelato to share, and lemoncello was a great way to finish a late afternoon lunch.

Lemoncello and Gelato © Spaswinefood

Coffee Time © Spaswinefood

During lunch the writings on the wall also kept us entertained.

I Got the Wine Part © Spaswinefood

The chef also dropped by to chat with the guests. His hat and jacket sure caught attention. It reminded me of Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead).

Guest Posing with Chef © Spaswinefood

Diners, Trattoria Nuova © Spaswinefood

Good food with excellent service it was the perfect outing. Overall dining out in Italy is pretty amazing, especially if you stick to local restaurants. Thanks to our host we discovered a local favorite, which is even better.

All too soon it was time to leave. Relais Tenuta il Cigno is ideal for 2-3 day stopover for those looking to relax, or to get away from it all. During the tourist season they offer spa treatments, and provide dining on site.

Tribute to Varenne © Spaswinefood

Ours was just a one night say, and so next morning it was time to leave.

October Morning, Relais Tenuta il Cigno © Spaswinefood

It was so cozy here on an early mid-October morning.

 Relais Tenuta il Cigno Moments © Spaswinefood

Breakfast that morning was awesome.

Breakfasting, Relais Tenuta il Cigno © Spaswinefood

This was the perfect way to end our Italian wine travels.

Country House, Relais Tenuta il Cigno © Spaswinefood

After breakfast it was off to the airport to return our car rental. For sure Agriturismo Relais Tenuta il Cigno was an amazing place to discover not far from the Milan Airport. Travelers looking for something different should consider staying here. I would also like to note, Pavia is home to Oltrepò Pavese wine country, which we visited earlier as part of our Lombardy wine country explorations. Also, we explored Marche and Umbria. I invite you to join me in our wine travels in Italy and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to future vine-filled explorations in Italy. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

October 2022

Villanterio, Italy 

© Spaswinefood

Varenne, Relais Tenuta il Cigno © Spaswinefood

When in Athens it is hard to miss those views of the Acropolis, especially at night

Late spring in Athens is perfect for winelovers. Just think about it, winelovers can take in the views of the Acropolis while sipping on Greek wines. There we were at Manouka Restaurant, sipping wines from North Greece with the most incredible, day's end views of the Acropolis. It has been awhile nevertheless, it is hard to forget those views. When in Athens don't miss taking in the views of the Acropolis at night.

Acropolis: Roof Top Dining at Manouka Restaurant © Spaswinefood

In case you are wondering, dining on the roof top at Manouka, with these views, is like dining with the Greek gods. When in Athens dining with a view of the Acropolis is a must! Allow yourself to be transported to a different time and place.

Roof Top Dining at Manouka Restaurant

The first of day of our #winelover country explorations on that June day ended with dinner on the rooftop at Manouka Restaurant. We arrived at 8:30 pm to take in the sunset. Sunset over the Acropolis is stunning. While the clouds blocked out the sunset that evening, the ever changing views of the Acropolis were absolutely stunning. 

Day's End Dining with View of the Acropolis © Spaswinefood

Day's End, Acropolis, Athens © Spaswinefood

While we drank the wines with food pairings night fell over Acropolis. Soon the moon was lighting the night sky.

Acropolis at Night Fall, Greece © Spaswinefood

From our dining tables at Manouka we took in the ever changing views of the acropolis. Not only were the views amazing but also so were the wines. The wines featured that evening were Wines of North Greece.

Wines of Northern Greece

During dinner we were treated to most delicious wines from Northern Greece. It was a special evening with the Winemakers of North Greece.

Manouka Restaurant, Athens, Greece © Spaswinefood

Now for the wine list served that evening. Give me the envelope please.

Now the Wine List © Spaswinefood

 Acropolis View Wine List © Spaswinefood

It is not every evening that I get treated to an Acropolis View Wine List from the Winemakers of North Greece. I am please to report that all my fellow winelovers had great views that evening.

Our Table at Manouka Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Winelovers, Manouka Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Winelovers, Manouka Restaurant, Athens © Spaswinefood

It was a fun evening with great friends. For sure, it was the perfect ending to a vine-filled day.

Acropolis from the Roof Top of Manouka Restaurant © Spaswinefood

While those views of the Acropolis at night are not to be missed. It is hard to not notice the Acropolis when you are out and about in Central Athens. 

I have discovered that the Acropolis dominates Athens skyline view.

Acropolis from My Breakfast Table © Spaswinefood

A Closer Look at the Acropolis, Athens © Spaswinefood

For sure whenever I am in Athens I take advantage of viewing the Acropolis from as many different perspectives as possible. Last June I did manage to visit Temple of Hephaestus, and take in the views of the Acropolis from there.

Acropolis, from Temple of Hephaestus © Spaswinefood

Temple of Hephaestus, Athens © Spaswinefood

It is hard to miss the Acropolis,  high on the hill where the Parthenon and other historic buildings are located. The Parthenon, in particular is an ancient religious temple built by the Athenians for the Greek goddess Athena. During an earlier trip I took a quick visit to the Parthenon, the temple of the Greek Goddess Athena. One could imagine that the wine story begins with the Greek god of wine, Dionysus bringing some wine to Goddess Athena at the Parthenon. Just maybe the wine was from North Greece. 

Parthenon, Acropolis © Spaswinefood

The Greek Goddess Athena waits you in Athens. Now is the time to explore Greek Wines! Those who have yet discover Greek wines from Northern Greece now is the time. Being there that evening also reminded me of earlier visits to North Greece. I would also like to add that the Manouka Restaurant is the perfect spot to see the Acropolis and to drink Greek wine of course. When in Athens don't miss those views of the Acropolis at night. I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

Yamas!

Sharon

Remembering June 2022

Athens, Greece

© Spaswinefood

Acropolis, Athens © Spaswinefood

Early Morning View of the Acropolis, Athens © Spaswinefood

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#wineloverAnniversary2022 #SeeYouInGreeceWL #winelover #GreeceWinelover #SeeYouInGreece

Thivaiki Gi's Mouhtaro is a must for lovers of unique wines

Learning about new grape varieties is passion for me. My wine soul is drawn to Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. Greek wines, like Mouhtaro, are so exciting to explore. In fact Greek wines made with indigenous grape varieties, like Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, just to name a few, are amongst my most exciting vine-filled adventures in Greece. While there is so much I have come to appreciate about Greek wines, perhaps I am happiest exploring indigenous grape varieties, like Mouhtaro at Thivaiki Gi's in Central Greece. We arrived mid-day at Thivaiki Gi Vineyard where we were treated to the absolute best of wine country experiences. There is no comparison to be spoiled in Greece. I must admit that being grape-fully spoiled in Terra Thiva (Land of Thiva), Greece is why I continue my wine travels.

Welcome to Thivaiki Gi Vineyard, Greece © Spaswinefood

Call me a romantic for, of all my wine country travels, it is the unique grape varieties that catch my attention. Whether my wine travels takes me to Bulgaria, Greece, Georgia, Italy, Romania, Serbia, Turkey, or North America I am finding myself drawn to the indigenous and local grape varieties. Sure, I love an excellent Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, or a fantastic wine blend that we all know so well. Of course, there are amazing rosé wines. Let me not forget the best of bubbles from Champagne and elsewhere. Equally, I love the best of those amazing sweet wines, such as Port, Madiera, and Tokaji. During my wine travels I have observed a growing interest in wines made with native grape varieties. I have seen this in Greece, where there has been a long tradition of working with indigenous grapes. Then connecting with Mouhtaro at Thivaiki Gi's in Central Greece topped my wine travel list.

Welcome to Thivaiki Gi Vineyard

We meet at the Thivaiki Gi vineyards on the slopes of Sfinga Mountain, just a few kilometres from Thebes, right outside Vagia village. This area is known as the birthplace of the Sphinx. It was a very hot day in early June when we arrived in the Land of Thiva. As we exited the highway the vineyard came into view.

Arriving at Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

 Mountain Views, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

From the vineyard you can take in the nearby mountain views.

Taking a Closer Look, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Upon arrival at Thivaiki Gi vineyards we were given a traditional grape picker’s snack (cheese, bread & olives tied up in a hankerchief). It was just perfect for a quick picnic! 

Picnic, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Indeed it was a true grape picker's picnic. I am sure it is very welcomed during the harvest when the pickers spend long times between meals.

Picnic, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

The water was absolutely needed because it was indeed a hot day. 

Time for Picnic Lunch, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

After the welcoming picnic off we went to explore the vineyard vines.  It was obvious to me that the vineyard was thriving in early June.

June Visit to Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Whenever I visit a vineyard I always like taking a look at the vines.

Thriving Vines, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Then, I took an even closer look at the grapes.

Early June Grapes, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

After our picnic some of us hopped into the back of a truck to go see the vineyard’s oldest vines. I sure liked, not having to walk in the hot mid-day sun.

Checking out Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Old Vine Time, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

These were classic, gnarly old vines. Specifically, they were 38 year old assyrtiko vines.

Taking a Closer Look at Thivaiki Gi Vineyard Old Vines © Spaswinefood

Later at the winery Mouchtaro was one of the wines we would taste. Next, I would like to introduce Mouhtaro.

Introduction to Mouhtaro

Last May/June 2022 I remember my first tasting Mouhtaro was at Cinque Winebar (Thivaiki Gi was the souce).

 Mouhtaro, Cinque Wine Bars, Athens © Spaswinefood

After that tasting I put this wine on my list for further explorations. I have discovered that

the very rare red grape Mouhtaro is grown exclusively in the area of Askri, at the foot of Helicon mountain, in Central Greece. The grape has a deep purple color, with aromas of ripe red fruits and spices. It has a full body, with mild, silky tannins, and a pronounced acidity. This wine has an aging potential of more than 10 years, hence it develops a unique character over time. It is ideally suited to be paired with game or lamb, pasta in red sauce, and yellow hard cheese.

Mouhtaro is perhaps the rarest grape variety in Greece. It has a legacy in the Valley of the Muses, where the Muses Estate is located. Muses Estate was the first winery to revive this variety thanks to the efforts of Athanasios Zacharias. There it is grown in sandy-loam soils, at an altitude of 450-550 meters. Muses Estate has a long tradition of growing this grape, and this knowledge has been passed from one generation to the next. Yannis MW article describes the uniqueness of a Muse Estate Mouhtaro. 

Fortunately, Thivaiki Gi has joined in the efforts to bring Mouhtaro to our attention.

Time for Food and Wine at Thivaiki Gi 

After the vineyard visit, we drove to their winery for wine tasting over late lunch.

Rosé Time, Thivaiki Gi Winery © Spaswinefood

Lunch with Wines, Thivaiki Gi Winery © S

Lunch & Wines at Thivaiki  Gi Winery © Spaswinefood

I joined the third table at the upper level. It was a spectacular Greek family style lunch. We were beyond spoiled with a huge, delicious meal that went perfectly with their great wines. What an awesome traditional greek cuisine dining experience it was! YES, there were also vegetarian options.

My Veggie Lunch, Thivaiki Gi Winery © Spaswinefood

Thivaiki Gi Wines © Spaswinefood

One of the wines we tasted was Mouhtaro. 

Lunch at Thivaiki Gi Winery © Spaswinefood

I loved visiting this small, but modern wine producer. During the wine tasting it was so special to taste they're soon to be bottled Mouchtaro. After all it is a very rare red grape grown exclusively in Central Greece. Thivaiki Gi is one of the few wineries growing this grape. Muses Estate was the first winery to revive this variety thanks to the efforts of Athanasios Zacharias. I remembered well my first tasting Mouhtaro at Cinque Winebar (Thivaiki Gi was the source). Cinque in Athens also offers other wines from Thivaiki Gi. At this time Thivaiki Gi Mouhtaro is yet to be available in the US however, Muse Estate Mouhtaro is available in the US at https://www.hamptonswineshoppe.com/.

 Mouhtaro, Cinque Wine Bars, Athens © Spaswinefood

Since I have now tasted Mouhtaro on two occasions I believe it is a wine to watch. It gets high marks on my list. Where there is a long tradition of working with indigenous grapes, is grape-fully inspiring to me. Now is the time to explore Greek Wines, especially Mouhtaro! I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Greece at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

Yamas!

Sharon

Remembering June 2022

Athens, Greece

© Spaswinefood

Athens, Greece © Spaswinefood

 Spaswinefood, Central Greece © Spaswinefood

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