Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon: September 2022

Monday, September 26, 2022

Off to Italy's Lombardia: To check out the wines, of course

It is harvest time, the end of September, and we are off to Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy, one of northern Italy’s premier tourist destinations. The lake borders on the provinces of Lombardia (Lombardy) and Veneto. There we will attend WMC22 (Wine Media Conference 2022), which will take place in the Hotel Acquaviva in Desenzano del Garda, a small town on the lake’s southern shore. Desenzanzo, along with its sister city Sirmione, are the best known destinations on the lake. Let us not forget Italy's second-largest city (Milan), the regional capital, where we will our touch down before heading onto Desenzanzo. During the conference we will focus on getting to know the wines from Lombardy's wine region.

September Vines © Spaswinefood

The Grapes are Off to the Tank © Spaswinefood

Off to the Lombardy Wine Region

A large and geographically complex region, Lombardy has 5 DOCG , 21 DOC and 15 IGP titles. Lombardy is home to handful of popular and well-known wine styles including the bright, cherry-scented Valtellina and the high-quality sparkling wine of Franciacorta and Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico. The Oltrepo Pavese zone stands out among these as one of the larger, better-known regions, not only for its sparkling Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, but more recently for its Pinot Grigio, which since 2008 has had its own independent DOC (Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio). Franciacorta, the second of Lombardy's two sparkling DOCG wines, is from the rapidly developing and well-regarded vineyards between Brescia and Lake Iseo. One of the regions we explored in 2011 was Franciacorta; so we are very happy to return.

NOTE: Franciacorta is not a part of ASCOVILO (Associazione Consorzi Vini Lombardi), an umbrella association that represents 13 different winery associations in Lombardy, which partnered with WMC22 in hosting the conference. My understanding is that it maybe in the future.

WMC22 (Wine Media Conference 2022), Desenzano del Garda

Desenzanzo, has an historic center near the port, which was once the strategic heart of this trading town. The small streets are a great place to walk and explore. Moreover, you can walk the lake shore to the lighthouse on the other side of the port. Also, in the old town is the Castello di Desenzano del Garda (castle), which overlooks the town and has some of the best views of Lake Garda. The town has a long promenade along Lake Garda, which runs from the port to our hotel. There are also multiple beaches to enjoy. If time permits we will also explore Sirmione. It is located on a peninsula that juts into the lake, about 6.5 kilometers from our hotel.

The WMC22 will take place at the Hotel Acquaviva in Desenzano. Our Italian host will be

ASCOVILO (Associazione Consorzi Vini Lombardi), an umbrella association that represents 13 different winery associations in Lombardy. Ascovilo will have a strong presence at the conference, sponsoring Friday excursions and the two Live Wine Social events. In addition, there will be pre-conference and post-conference excursions. We will be taking a post-conference excursion to Oltrepo Pavese.

Remembering Franciacorta, 2011

As we head out the door, I remember so well that my wine adventures began in this area in 2011. October 2011 I wrote this:

This week I leave California for Italy. My Spaswinefood travels will take me to Brescia, Italy for the European Wine Bloggers Conference 2011. Of course, I have checked the weather in Brescia. While I have read a little on Brescia's history (ancient era, middle ages and modern era) most of my research has been on wine. Yes, I must admit I spend lots of time on this.

Indeed ever since EWBC2011, my first wine media conference, we have not stopped exploring the wine regions of the world.

Villa Franciacorta, October 2011

The glasses are ready at Villa Franciacorta © Spaswinefood

So are the Franciacortas nicely chilled © Spaswinefood

A Tenute La Montina at the front © Spaswinefood

Which one would you like to taste? © Spaswinefood

Franciacorta, the second of Lombardy's two sparkling DOCG wines, as I noted is well-regarded for its wine. We will not forget to taste a few of those.

As we return to Italy, to further explore the Lombardy Wine Region, I invite you to join me in our wine travels in Italy and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to our vine-filled explorations in Lombardia.

CHEERS!

Sharon & John

September 2022

Off to Lombardia

Harvest Awaits © Spaswinefood

Sunday, September 25, 2022

An Oenotria Land evening with Domaine Costa Lazaridi and Domaine Oenotros

It was day's end when we arrived at Oenotria Land in Kapandriti. This winery estate was the perfect finale for our 10th #Winelover Anniversary Celebration. The Kapandriti estate has a modern winery, for the vinification of grapes from their estate vineyard; and the 10,500 square meter complex also includes the Costa Lazaridi Wine Museum, hall for professional and social events, conference rooms, and underground wine cellars. It was an Oenotria Land evening with Domaine Costa Lazaridi and Domaine Oenotros wines.

#Winelovers Arriving at Oenotria Land, Kapandriti © Spaswinefood

Oenotria Land, Kapandriti, Greece © Spaswinefood

Time to Discover Domaines Costa Lazaridi and Oenotros

Despite being totally stuffed after a fabulous Greek lunch, off we went to Kapandriti for a wine tasting from two wine domaines, Domaine Costa Lazaridi and Domaine Oenotros, and of course dinner. We also toured their wine museum, and ended the evening with dancing.

Oenotria Land, Kapandriti © Spaswinefood

Upon arrival we were greeted with award winning wines and a friendly staff.

Time to Discover © Spaswinefood

There was an extensive selection of wines to choose from, both before and during dinner.

Domaine Costa Lazaridi Rosé © Spaswinefood

Chateau Julia © Spaswinefood

The company produces wines from two domaines, Costa Lazaridi and Oenotros. Costa Lazardi began with the plantation of the first linear vineyard in Drama in 1979. By 1992 construction of a modern winery, Chateau Julia, in Adriani, Drama; and the expansion of the vineyards was the beginning of the company’s growth. The first plantings of 1979 covered just 8.5 hectares of grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Assyrtiko. Given the impressive results they became a benchmark for winemaking in the region. Today Costa Lazardi has four vineyards around Drama, with 2200 acres of low yielding crops of the finest Greek and International grape varieties.

Perhaps it is time for a little mythology. Indeed, according to mythology Oenotros, the youngest son of King Lycaon, was the first greek who left his land and founded a colony in the bay of Taranto, in southern Italy to produce wine. In a similar venture, setting out from Drama, the company created Oenotria Land in Kapandriti, Attica, an area rich in wine history. A 20 hectare vineyard was planted in 2000, with the first bottling being the 2005 harvest. Then in 2006, the construction of the winery, in Kapandriti was completed and started operation. Today the modern winery produces wines from the organically cultivated vineyard.

Kapandriti's Costa Lazaridi Wine Museum is a must visit. Fortunately, we were able to visit this wine museum before dinner.

Costa Lazaridi Wine Museum © Spaswinefood

The Oenotria Land estate was a very beautiful setting for our farewell dinner.

Farewell Dinner, Oenotria Land © Spaswinefood

Dinner was a fabulous buffet of Greek dishes. Of course, at the end of dinner, there was dessert paired with a sweet wine.

Time for Dessert © Spaswinefood

Domaine Costa Lazaridi © Spaswinefood

And YES, there was dancing.

Time to Dance © Spaswinefood

I think we all needed some dancing after being so well wined and dined that day.

A Big Yamas to Oenotria Land

Special thanks to the winery team at Oenotria Land, Kapandriti for hosting such a wonderful finale to our 10th anniversary. The owner participated in our activities at the winery. Luiz and Ted did not forget to give him a #winelover badge and a certificate of appreciation.

Special Thanks from #Winelover © Spaswinefood

It is never easy to say goodbye but, perhaps when your day ends at Oenotria Land in Kapandriti you have come to great place to do so. Traveling with fellow wine enthusiasts can sometimes present challenges however, it was not in this case. It was great group, maybe one of the best yet.

Special thanks to our Oenotria Land hosts in East Attica for introducing us to Domaine Costa Lazaridi and Domaine Oenotros wines. For sure Greece is for winelovers therefore I invite you to join me in my travels in Greece and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. Special thanks to all of our wonderful Greek hosts for making my vine-filled explorations so awesome.

Yamas!

Sharon

June 2022

Athens, Greece

Oenotria Land © Spaswinefood

Thursday, September 22, 2022

Thanks Thivaiki Gi for your amazing Greek hospitality

Greece is where my wine soul feels at home, especially when I visit wineries like Thivaiki Gi. We arrived at Thivaiki Gi Vineyard at mid-day where we were treated to the absolute best of wine country experiences. There is no comparison to be spoiled in Greece. I must admit I loved being spoiled in Terra Thiva (Land of Thiva), Greece.

Welcome to Thivaiki Gi Vineyard, Greece © Spaswinefood

Thivaiki Gi Vineyard

We meet at the Thivaiki Gi vineyards on the slopes of Sfinga Mountain, just a few kilometres from Thebes, right outside Vagia village. This area is known as the birthplace of the Sphinx. It was a very hot day in early June when we arrived in the Land of Thiva. As we exited the highway to enter the vineyard came into view.

Arriving at Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

From the vineyard we could take in the nearby mountain views.

Taking a Closer Look, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Upon arrival at Thivaiki Gi vineyards we were given a traditional grape picker’s snack (cheese, bread & olives tied up in a hankerchief). It was just perfect for a quick picnic!

Picnic Lunch, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Indeed it was a true grape pickers picnic. I am sure it is very welcomed during harvest when the pickers spend long times between meals.

Picnic at Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

The water was absolutely needed because it was indeed a hot day.

Time for Picnic Lunch, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

It was obvious that the vineyard was thriving in early June.

June Visit to Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

I always like taking a closer look at the vines.

Thriving Vines, Thivaiki Gi Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Then, even a closer look at the grapes.

After our picnic some of us hopped into the back of a truck to go see the vineyard’s oldest vines. I sure liked not having to walk in the hot mid-day sun.

These are classic, gnarly old vines. Specifically, they are 38 year old assyrtiko vines.

After the vineyard visit, we drove to their winery for wine tasting over late lunch.

Welcome to Thivaiki Gi: First in Hospitality

Since our group was large we occupied three tables.

First Table at Winery Entrance

Second Table

Third Table

I joined the third table at the upper level. It was a spectacular Greek family style lunch. We were beyond spoiled with a huge, delicious meal that went perfectly with their great wines. What an awesome traditional greek cuisine dining experience it was! YES, there were also vegetarian options.

Just take a closer look at a few of the wines in the lineup.

I loved visiting this small, but modern wine producer. During the wine tasting I also tasted their soon to be bottled Mouchtaro (a very rare red grape grown exclusively in Central Greece). Thivaiki Gi is one of the few wineries growing this grape. Muses Estate was the first winery to revive this variety thanks to the efforts of Athanasios Zacharias. I remembered first tasting Mouchtaro at Cinque Winebar (Thivaiki Gi was the source). Cinque in Athens also offers other wines from Thivaiki Gi.

Since I have now tasted Mouchtaro on two occasions I believe it is a wine to watch. It gets high marks on my list.

Needless to say, Luiz and Ted presented our host with a #winelover badge and a certificate of appreciation.

Special thanks to our wonderful Greek hosts at Thivaikigi Winery for making our vine-filled explorations so very memorable. For sure Greece is for winelovers therefore I invite you to join me in my travels in Greece and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.