Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon

Monday, December 26, 2022

Let's shout it from the mountain top: Castello di Stefanago come for the views, stay for the wines

A beautiful way to begin our second day in Oltrepò Pavese wine country was a visit to Castello di Stefanago. Here we climbed to the castle's rooftop to take in the stunning views. Castello di Stefanago is where we discovered that both the views and the wines are fantastic!

Castello di Stefanago: Where the Views and Wines are Tops © Spaswinefood

I still remember that morning, as we traveled through the mountainous countryside, and arrived at the base of a driveway leading to a mountain top. The driver parked the bus and we headed up the driveway.

Off to Castello di Stefanago © Spaswienfood

It was a slow walk uphill but eventually we neared the top.

Further Along, Off to Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

As we neared the top views across the valley, all the way to the Alps, came into view. It was well worth walking up the driveway just to see those views. Besides seeing all the way to the snow capped Alps is impressive.

Taking in the Views, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

Eventually, we arrived at the entrance to the courtyard at Castello di Stefanago. Castello di Stefanago, owned by Baruffaldi family, has been making wine for five generations.

Welcome to Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

Arriving at Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

I remember our host giving us an overview of Oltrepò Pavese, which is one of the larger Lombardy wine regions. While the area is known for its sparkling Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, its other wines are not to be missed. During our #WMC22 visit to Oltrepò Pavese I so delighted in being introduced to the wines. Later we would discover the artisanal wines of Castello di Stefanago.

Welcome to Oltrepò Pavese Wine Country © Spaswinefood

For sure the wine region of Oltrepò Pavese, Pavia Province is home to stunning landscape. While north of the Po River is characterized by plains, to the south of the river, the hills and mountains, is ideal for grape cultivation. Castello di Stefanago has ideal location for taking in views of their vineyards and the surrounding countryside.

Before heading up to the castle's rooftop I paused to take in the views before continuing.

Views from Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

YES, even after arriving at the castle, we would go to the rooftop to take in those 360 degree views at the very top.

Entrance to Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

Given it was October the vines had already started their color change.

Through the Door, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

It was through the door into the courtyard. Still we would continue to climb to the top.

Onto the Rooftop, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

It was up another flight of stairs, and then soon we were climbing up a small staircase to the top. Eventually we reached the rooftop.

Rooftop Views at Castello di Stefanago: Come for the Views

Vineyards and More, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

It was well worth the time to climb the stairs to take in those awesome views. In the above photo the vineyards (on the left). There are 20 hectares where they cultivate grape varieties that are common to this region, such as Pinot Noir, Croatina, Riesling Renano, Muller Thurgau and Chardonnay. Their vineyards have been organically farming since 1998. The winery uses minimum intervention in the vineyard, and the grapes are handpicked.

Taking in the Views, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

Once we finally reached the rooftop we so enjoyed the views.

Enjoying the Views, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

This is the perfect location to get an overview of the Oltrepò Pavese landscape. Vineyards, mountains, farms, and more, with views all the way to the plains in the north, and snow capped Alps.

Loving the Views, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

View from Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

Farmland near Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

Gathering on the rooftop also turned into a photo op.

Photo Time, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

Soon it was time to head back down.

Castello di Stefanago: Stay for the Wines

The good news is that after all that climbing it was followed by an excellent wine tasting. The winery takes gentle and sensitive approach to winemaking. Fermentation is all spontaneous, using only indigenous yeasts in stainless steel containers with no temperature control, and the use of sulphites is kept to a minimum. Overall there is minimum intervention in the winemaking process.

Castello di Stefanago Wines © Spaswinefood

We were indeed ready for a wine tasting.

Wine Tasting Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

Wine Tasting Castello di Stefanago

We began with their sparkling wines. Castello di Stefanago's uses an innovative approach to making their sparkling wines, known as Ancestrale. The method is halfway between a traditional Classic Method and re-fermentation in the bottle. The second fermentation takes place spontaneously in the bottle due to the natural presence of yeasts and residual sugars, and after dégorgement it is released to the market.

Here are some of the wines I tasted.

1. Castello di Stefanago, Spumante Metodo Classico Brut Blanc de Noirs Ancestrale 24

Metodo Classico Brut Blanc de Noirs Ancestrale 24 © Spaswinefood

Castello di Stefanago, Blanc de Noirs Ancestrale 24 © Spaswinefood

2. Castello di Stefanago, Spumante Metodo Classico Rose Ancestrale 36

Metodo Classico Rose Ancestrale 36 © Spaswinefood

Castello di Stefanago, Rose Ancestrale 36 © Spaswinefood

3. Castello di Stefanago, Cuvée

Castello di Stefanago, Cuvée © Spaswinefood

Castello di Stefanago, Cuvée in the Glass © Spaswinefood

4. Castello di Stefanago, Stuvenagh Amico Frizz

Castello di Stefanago, Stuvenagh Amico Frizz © Spaswinefood

Castello di Stefanago, Stuvenagh Amico Frizz in the Glass © Spaswinefood

5. Castello di Stefanago, Campo Piano

Castello di Stefanago, Campo Piano © Spaswinefood

Castello di Stefanago, Campo Piano © Spaswinefood

6. Castello di Stefanago, Macerato

Castello di Stefanago, Macerato © Spaswinefood

Castello di Stefanago, Macerato in the Glass © Spaswinefood

Their sparkling wines, white and rosé wines were so delicious. We ended the wine tasting with a few reds.

7. Castello di Stefanago, Sabarbatello

Castello di Stefanago, Sabarbatello © Spaswinefood

Amongst the Castello di Stefanago wines was an Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero DOC.

8. Castello di Stefanago, Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero DOC

Castello di Stefanago, Pinot Nero © Spaswinefood

Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

The wine tasting was an awesome lineup of wines. The overall focus of Castello di Stefanago wines is on drinkability, as well achieving a good QPR (Quality-to-Price-Ratio). They not only want to produce wines for a variety of different palates but also for their wines to always be enjoyable and rich in fruity flavors. Based on the wines I tasted they are doing just that. Castello di Stefanago is an independent wine producer, and member of Federazione Italiana Vignaioli Indipendenti.

Castello di Stefanago, Vignaioli Indipendenti © Spaswinefood

What a morning it was to meet up with this wonderful Castello di Stefanago team.

Thanks Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

What a beautiful beginning to our second day in Oltrepò Pavese. Here we climbed to the top of the castle to take in the stunning views. It was followed by an excellent wine tasting. Let's shout it from the mountain top Oltrepò Pavese's Castello di Stefanago is one of Italy's best producers of artisanal wines. Travelers will be impressed by the charm of this Oltrepò Pavese winery. I so look forward to sharing more on our vine-filled explorations in Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Italy at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.

CHEERS!

Sharon

October 2022

Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy

Italy

Castello di Stefanago, Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood

Friday, December 23, 2022

Oltrepò Pavese's CA' Di FrarA wines will get your attention

When we arrived at CA' Di FrarA Winery we were welcomed to this family winery. Besides tasting excellent wines what I remembered most about our visit was their beautiful vineyards. Located in The Valley of Rieslings this winery provide personifies Oltrepò Pavese's new direction in winemaking. I invite you to discover why Oltrepò Pavese's CA' Di FrarA Winery is so special.

Welcome to CA' Di FrarA Winery © Spaswinefood

Our Welcome to CA' Di FrarA Winery © Spaswinefood

Welcome to CA' Di FrarA Winery

CA' Di FrarA, a family winery, founded in 1905 by Giovanni Bellani is located in Casa Ferrari (in local dialect Ca’di Frara). This family wine estate is now led by third generation, Luca and Matteo Bellani. Its wine story began when their great-grandfather bought vineyards in a narrow valley. Cà di Frara winery's Luca Bellani, an oenologist, who together with other family members continue to build a bright future. His mother Daniela who, together with her husband Tullio, dedicated their life's efforts to this winery. Tullio Bellani, understood from the beginning the importance of matching the right grape variety to the right soil and exposure. This family's efforts have paid off over time, gaining recognition for its quality wines. These days CA' Di FrarA is part of Oltrepò Pavese's new direction in winemaking.

CA' Di FrarA Winery: A Family Winery © Spaswinefood

Upon arrival Daniela Bellani took us on a brief trip to the vineyard, just across the street.

CA' Di FrarA Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Located in an area known as The Valley of Rieslings these Ca Di Frara vineyards are well managed to take advantage of the local microclimate and terroir.

Welcome to CA' Di FrarA Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Over the years, through the acquisition of vineyards (Oliva Gessi and Mornico Losana), targeted clonal selections, cellar expansion, and with the use of new materials and winemaking techniques have resulted in quality wines. By focusing on the maximum expression for each vineyard, this has allowed each of their wine labels to shine. The Oliva Gessi chalky soil makes the vineyards in that area perfect for the production of whites such as Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Malvasia and sparkling wine. Ca' di Frara is known for its Riesling and its dry, no dosage, metodo classico sparkling wines (the same method as Champagne, undergoing a secondary fermentation in the bottle). Their vineyards in the Mornico Losana area are planted with traditional red grape varieties and pinot noir to produce red wines.

Welcome to CA' Di FrarA Wines © Spaswinefood

Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese is Home to CA' Di FrarA

Lombardy, a large and geographically complex wine region, has 5 DOCGs, 21 DOCs and 15 IGPs titles. Lombardy has become known for popular and well-known wine styles including the bright, cherry-scented Valtellina, Franciacorta sparkling wines, and Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico. Oltrepò Pavese is one of the larger regions with a long tradition of wine making history, which is at least 2000 years old. Oltrepò Pavese is known not only for its sparkling Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, but also for its other wines. Oltrepò Pavese's CA' Di FrarA winery produces an excellent representation of these wines. Let's explore some of CA' Di FrarA wines.

Wine Tasting, CA' Di FrarA Winery

1. Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG

We began with a CA' Di FrarA Pinot Nero sparkling wine.

CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Nero Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG

2. Oltrepò Pavese Riesling

Next, we were in for a special treat, their Riesling wines. Oltrepò Pavese Riesling wines are produced from Riesling Italico and Riesling Renano grapes. They are produced in both still (two versions: Superiore and Riserva with 24 months of bottle aging), and sparkling styles (Frizzante and Spumante Metodo Martinolti). Most of these wines are produced as Oltrepò Pavese Riesling DOC. Over our two day Oltrepò Pavese visit we tasted many excellent Riesling wines. CA' Di FrarA Riesling wines left me impressed.

CA' Di FrarA Winery, Olivia Gessi Riesling

Oltrepò Pavese’s new generation of winemakers, like Luca Bellani, signal the arrival of some of the bestexpressions of Italian Riesling. Riesling represents 10 percent of the region’s vines. In Italy, Riesling applies to either Riesling Italico, or Riesling Renano, (Rhine variety). This new generation of winemakers focus is on the Renano variety, emphasizing the grape’s local personality that is already starting to shift the public’s perception of Italian Riesling.

CA' Di FrarA Winery, Olivia Gessi Riesling Superiore 2017

CA' Di FrarA Winery, Luca Bellani Vita Riesling 2021

This wine was a 2021 IGP from their Olivia Vineyard.

These were fabulous Riesling wines. Oltrepò Pavese’s new generation of winemakers now craft some of the most prominent expressions of Italian Riesling. Riesling represents 10 percent of the region’s vines. In Italy, Riesling applies to either Riesling Italico, or Riesling Renano, (Rhine variety). Riesling grapes occupy 1,300 hectares (1,000 Italico variety, 300 and growing of Renano). This new generation of winemakers are focusing on the Renano variety, emphasizing the grape’s local personality, and starting to shift the public’s perception of Italian Riesling. My understanding is that the goal for those engaged in the Valle del Riesling project, is for producers continue to make improvements to ensure that the local Riesling Renano earns the reputation as Italy’s most prestigious expression of the grape.

3. Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Grigio

While in Oltrepò Pavese we also tasted some wines that were not DOC's Or DOCG's, such as the following example, a Pinot Grigio DOP.

CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Grigio Oltrepò Pavese DOP 2021

We also tasted CA' Di FrarA Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) wines. Pinot Nero is the major grape variety and it is used to make excellent sparkling wines and still red wines. The region is best know for its Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, with Cruase being its flagship wine. The list includes: Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Cruase DOCG, and Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC.

4. Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC

The last three wines poured that day were still Pinot Nero wines from their Oliva Gessi and Mornico Losana vineyards. Let's take a look at these Pinot Nero still wines. We were introduced to three 2019 Pinot Nero wines from different parcels 4, 17 (Mornico Losana ), and 18 (Oliva Gessi).

CA' Di FrarA Winery, Morinco Pinot Nero Riserva (Parcel 4), 2019

CA' Di FrarA Winery, Losana Pinot Nero Riserva (Parcel 17), 2019

The third Pinot Nero was from the Olivia Vineyard.

CA' Di FrarA Winery, Olivia Pinot Nero Riserva (Parcel 18), 2019

My first response was this tasting introduced me to some special wines. Now upon further reflection upon my introduction to these wines, followed by further research has given me a deeper appreciation of our CA' Di FrarA Winery visit. During our Oltrepò Pavese wine travels we were greeted by winery family. There were also those special times when we toured the vineyard.

During our CA' Di FrarA visit it was a pleasure to discover their wines. This Oltrepò Pavese winery is one where the wines will get your attention. Clearly CA' Di FrarA is part of Oltrepò Pavese's new direction in winemaking. I so look forward to sharing more on our vine-filled explorations in Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Italy at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.