Living the dream is exploring Douro Valley quintas

Each time I return to the scenic Douro Valley is a great opportunity to explore its quintas. For those who want a more authentic Douro Valley experience if you stay at a quinta, you will most likely get quality time. Given there are over 200 quintas in the Douro there is no way to experience all of them however, besides staying at a quinta, you can also do wine tastings, and/or dine at others. I have so enjoyed all my Douro Valley quinta experiences. 

Douro Explorations © Spaswinefood

In case you are wondering What is a Quinta? Historically quintas were family owned estates that included farm homes, surrounded by large plots of land, intended for both income and family consumption. These farms usually rented out one-fifth of its property. Fifth is quintus in Latin hence, they became known as quintas. Over time, and with more modern cultivation practices, many of Portugal’s traditional quintas disappeared. Many of the estates were wine-producing. In fact today many of Portugal’s wines are still produced at quintas, with the labels bearing their name. Moreover, Douro's port vineyards there is a Quinta Classification system that grades the quality potential of vineyards. 

Visitors are immediately struck by the stunning beauty of the oldest demarcated and regulated wine region in the world. This wine region was defined in 1756, and made a UNESCO World Heritage in 2001. Its terraced vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, along the Douro River and its tributaries. The valley runs along the Douro River, from Spain to Porto (Oporto), on the Atlantic coast. During my 2023 Douro visit I stayed at two quintas, Qunita do Portal and Quinta Manhãs Douro, and visited Quinta de la Rosa's Cozinha da Clara Restaurante, and Quinta do Pôpa. Over the years my Douro wine travels have included Quinta Do Panascal, Quinta Do Seixo, Senhora Do Rosário and others. What follows are a few highlights:

1. Qunita do Portal 

Qunita do Portal was my doorway to this very special wine region. October 2012 this was where we (John and I) were first introduced to the Douro Valley. Returning in 2023 meant we (Carol & I) could experience the vineyards in the spring time.

Quinta do Portal, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

We so enjoyed those spring time walks.

Quinta do Portal, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Spring time also meant the grapes were just starting to bud.

Spring Time Vines, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Grape Vines Starting to Bud, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Besides observing the vineyard we loved taking in the views.

Taking in the Views, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

We took advantage of posing in the vineyard.

Carol, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Spaswinefood Moments, Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

We so enjoyed those vineyard walks.  

Quinta do Portal Restaurant © Spaswinefood

We had the most fabulous breakfasts, toured the winery, and of course dined at the restaurant.

Quinta do Portal Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Some how we managed to have two fantastic dinners at the restaurant during our stay.

Yes, we toured the winery to find out what the latest wine suggestions were.

Touring Quinta do Portal © Spaswinefood

Quinta do Portal, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

It is always a pleasure to stay at Quinta do Portal.

2. Quinta Manhas Douro

Before leaving the Douro Valley we stayed at Quinta Manhas Douro.  The Quinta is located not far from Pinhão, one of the main tourist destinations of the Douro region.

Quinta Manhas Douro © Spaswinefood

Taking in the Views, Quinta Manhas Douro © Spaswinefood

Quinta Manhãs Douro is located in Provesende, a small village in Sabrosa Municipality, on the Aldeias Vinhateiras route.  It is in the heart of Alto Douro Vinhateiro, UNESCO World Heritage.

Views from Quinta Manhas Douro © Spaswinefood

Church, Provesende © Spaswinefood

High in the Douro Valley, the tiny village of Provesende, gave us an impressive view of the valley, and a snapshot into vintage Portugal of yesterday. 

Douro offers many excellent dining options. For sure our drives through the Douro Valley included a few culinary explorations along the way.  Let's take a peek at one of culinary outings at a quinta last May. One of the highlights of our culinary outings took us to Cozinha da Clara Restaurante, Quinta de la Rosa. Given it is located on the scenic Douro River it offers breathtaking views of the river and the surrounding hills.

3. Culinary Explorations at Cozinha da Clara Restaurante

Sitting by the window at Quinta de la Rosa's Cozinha da Clara Restaurante, we are about to discover one of the best dining spots in the Douro Valley. Quinta de la Rosa, with around 1,400 acres, is one of Douro's most famous estates with great views and river-facing location. Let's take a peek at our culinary outing to Quinta de la Rosa.

Douro Views by the River, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante © Spaswinefood

Our Douro Valley travels took us to Cozinha da Clara Restaurante at Quinta de la Rosa. This quinta is one of the Douro's most famous estates. In fact it has an amazing restaurant, located right on the Douro  River with fabulous views.  It provides an idyllic backdrop for dining.

Cozinha da Clara Restaurante, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

We found parking was a bit difficult to find there however, we managed to secure a spot nearby. For those without a car you can stroll along the river from the village of Pinhão. It is about a 15-20 minute walk. 

Cozinha da Clara Restaurante 

It was here we enjoyed the most fabulous lunch with a wine flight.

Quinta De La Rosa Wines, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante  © Spaswinefood

We were most fortunately it was late May. Not only were we lucky, to get a table but, we got one overlooking the river.

By the River, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante © Spaswinefood

Needless to say, we made the most of our dining experience.

Lunching by the River © Spaswinefood

We sure loved those riverside views while dining. During lunch a few tourist boats went by our dining spot.

Tourist Boat & River Views  © Spaswinefood

After adjusting to the beauty of this fabulous setting, we were ready for a wine flight.

Time for Wine © Spaswinefood

Wine Flight © Spaswinefood

Quinita De La Rosa Wine Flight © Spaswinefood

Quinita De La Rosa Wine in the Glasses © Spaswinefood

While their menu features Portuguese traditional foods I managed to navigate it to find good vegetarian options. Needless to say, we enjoy our lunch that day.

Squash Soup, Cozinha da Clara Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Barley Soup, Cozinha da Clara Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Meat Plate, Cozinha da Clara Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Mushroom Dish, Cozinha da Clara Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Sitting there, enjoying the views with a most delicious lunch at Cozinha da Clara Restaurant was beyond awesome. I certainly enjoyed Quinta de la Rosa wines. Yes, if you wish, you certainly can finish the meal with a glass of their port wine.

Taking In the River Views, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante © Spaswinefood

For us taking in those views, over lunch was pure delight.

Clouds & River View, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante © Spaswinefood

 Cloud Reflections, Cozinha da Clara Restaurante © Spaswinefood

Dining at Cozinha da Clara Restaurant was a very special culinary treat. After lunch we would continue on our way back to our accommodations at Quinta Manhas Douro.

4. Quinta do Pôpa

Quinta do Pôpa has been on my list for awhile. Over the years I have interacted with Stéphane Ferreira whose family owns Quinta do Pôpa. Vanessa, his sister is also winemaker. Returning spring 2023 to the Douro Valley was the perfect opportunity for me to visit the Quinta do Pôpa for the first time. Every time I return to the Douro Valley I am immediately struck by its stunning beauty. Terraced vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, along the Douro River and its tributaries. This description fits perfectly for Quinta do Pôpa in the heart of the Douro, in the hot and dry region of Cima Corgo, in Adorigo, Tabuaço county.

Quinta do Pôpa, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

We were blown away by the views at Quinta do Pôpa, and will the drive up and down, to the tasting room, not so much. For sure, after driving up, we relaxed and took our time. Special thanks to Carol for her excellent driving skills.

After taking in the sights at the top off we went to the tasting room.

Off to Quinta do Pôpa Tasting Room © Spaswinefood

The views from the tasting room are amazing, especially if you sit outside on the patio.

Outside Patio, Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

For lunch we ordered a cheese platter.

Cheese Platter, Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

We were introduced to each of the wines.

Quinta do Pôpa, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Quinta do Pôpa Wines, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

The Quinta do Pôpa wines in the tasting included, whites, reds and a vintage port. While wine tasting we had amazing views!

Patio Views, Quinta do Pôpa © Spaswinefood

Because of our timing we almost had the place to ourselves. There was a couple enjoying a picnic lunch.

Picnic at Pôpa © Spaswinefood

One could never tires of the views here.

Douro Valley Views © Spaswinefood

We sure enjoyed this Douro Valley quinta.

5. More on Douro Valley Quintas

Fortunately, during earlier Douro visits, I have visited a number quintas, such as Quinta Do Panascal and Quinta Do Seixo. Our spring 2023 agenda had included a return visit to Quevedo's at Quinta Senhora Do Rosário. It was undergoing reconstruction however, we did manage to drive by the area. 

Exploring the Douro Valley 2023 © Spaswinefood

It is hard to forget my July 2016 visit to Quevedo's at Quinta Senhora Do Rosário.

Quevedo, Douro Valley 2016 © Spaswinefood

While at Quevedo we were introduced to Quevedo and Covela wines. After a welcoming drink it was off to the Quevedo cellar for a quick look. Naturally, after a general overview Oscar poured us a few samples. Yes, we did some sampling from the wine barrels. Given that I had met Oscar at a number of prior wine events, it was rather special for me to finally visit with him at his family winery. 

Once back upstairs we continued to taste more Covela wines. One of the wines that I tasted was a Covela Edição Nacional Avesso 2013. 

Tasting Covela Wines © Spaswinefood

Covela Edição Nacional Avesso 2013 © Spaswinefood

The tasting of Quevedo and Covela wines continued over lunch. Lunch is always a gastronomic affair at such gatherings.

Lunch © Spaswinefood

Needless to say lunch was filled with many tasty dishes.  It was a stellar lunch with excellent Covela wines and amazing Quevedo wines. One of the wines I tasted was Cláudia's wine. Here is how Quevedo described Cláudia's wine:

"Claudia’s wine is an expression of what Claudia, the winemaker together with Teresa, love most on each harvest. Claudia’s wine is a blend of grapes from different plots. They don’t follow the some (sic same) recipe every harvest as the vines don’t produce the same grapes every year. One thing we can assure, all our grapes are hand picked and treated as small treasures."

Quevedo Cláudia's 2013 © Spaswinefood

Quevedo also produce a wine called Oscar's wine, which I did not taste. However, let me not forget Quevedo's Port wines. I did taste an amazing Quevedo 30 Year Old White Port.

Quevedo 30 Year Old White Port © Spaswinefood

It was a heavenly just to taste this Quevedo 30 Year Old White Port wine.

Overall amongst the wines I tasted it was hard not to fall in love with Covela's Rosé and Quevedo's 30 Year Old White Port. 

Covela Rosé 2015 © Spaswinefood

Quevedo 30 Year Old White Port © Spaswinefood

I should not forget to say that I did admire seeing the Quevedo Port wines (Colheita, Tawny and Ruby).

Quevedo, Colheita  1996, 1997 and 2000 © Spaswinefood

Quevedo Tawny and Ruby Port © Spaswinefood

As you can see we were treated royally by our hosts. 

It was indeed a delightfully hot July day in the Douro Valley when I last visited here.

Swimmers, Douro Valley 2016 © Spaswinefood

Before leaving on such a hot day in July we took a dip in the Douro. It was a great way to cool down on a 38 degree Celsius day. Hot or not, no true wine enthusiast can get enough of the Douro. The Douro Valley port wines and its other wines sure leave a lasting impression. As always, all to soon it was time to leave the Douro, and its stunning valley views. 

During our Douro Valley wine travels we have always enjoyed venturing out and exploring quintas along the wine route.

Ruta do Vinho do Porto, Douro Valley © Spaswinefood

Living the dream is all about exploring Douro Valley quintas. Obviously, I have not scratched the surface on Douro Valley quintas. For sure the Douro Boys quintas is an absolute must. Without a doubt, returning to the Douro Valley is always a highlight of my wine travels in Portugal. For me, Douro Valley wines is a must for wine lovers. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Portugal and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.

CHEERS!

Sharon 

May 2023

Remembering Douro Valley, Portugal 

© Spaswinefood

Return to Quinta do Portal, 2023 © Spaswinefood

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Qué será, será: Let the Syrah/Shiraz escapedes begin

I have always found Syrahs to be quite interesting. Syrah, an international red grape variety, is the sixth-most grown grape in the world. In 1999, analysis reveled that Syrah is the offspring of two obscure grapes (Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche) from southeastern France. Syrah is used to produce single varietal wines, and blends. Syrah and Shiraz are the same grape. Syrah is how the variety is commonly referenced, with Shiraz being how it is referred to in Australia. Shiraz is also used for wines with an Australian Shiraz's style. This post will focus on Syrah styles that I have encountered at two wine escapades. While there maybe Syrah styles for regions around the world I realize these styles are guidelines. It's the exceptions, or aha moments that make the wine world so interesting! Let the Syrah/Shiraz escapedes begin.

Contemplating Syrah/Shiraz, Aqua Antigua © Spaswinefood

Syrah is grown around the world from France (Côtes du Rhône: Cornas, Hermitage, St. Joseph, Côte-Rôtie) to New World wine regions such as: Chile, South Africa (Stellenbosch, Paarl, Franschhoek), New Zealand, United States (CA- Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Napa, and Sonoma; and WA- Columbia Valley), and in Australia ( Barossa, Heathcote, Limestone Coast, Hunter Valley, Margaret River, Adelaide Hills, Clare Valley and McLaren Vale). This post will share insights into from two recent wine events.

KOV (Knights of the Vine) Syrah Style Tasting © Spaswinefood

Wine Escape One: Knights of the Vine (KOV)

One Sunday afternoon last summer we gathered at a members home for a Syrah wine tasting focusing on wine styles. Obviously, style and flavor profile of Syrah wines are influenced by the climate where the grapes are grown. A simplistic overview of climatic influence on Syrah styles follows: 

Moderate climates, such as northern Rhone Valley and Walla Walla AVA, Washington State, the wines tend to be medium to full-bodied, medium to high levels of tannins, with blackberry, mint and black pepper aromas. Hot climates, such as Australia's Barossa Valley, the wines tends to be full-bodied with softer tannins, jammier fruit, and aromas of licorice, anise and earthy leather. 

Before the Tasting three different Syrahs/Shiraz that afternoon we socialized with old friends, over a glass of Chapoutier Cotes du Rhone Belleruche Blanc 2021.

Description of Chapoutier Cotes du Rhone Belleruche Blanc 2021 © Spaswinefood

Sommelier, Master Lady Sudsy Torbeck lead us through a three-flight tasting and discussion of following three Syrahs/Shiraz:

1. E. Guigal Croze Hermitage

2. L'Ecole 41 Columbia Valley Syrah

3. Torbreck Woodcutters Shiraz

Wines Served, KOV Event © Spaswinefood

That afternoon I was excited to explore these Syrahs for their aromas and flavors. 

Wine Styles of Syrah/Shiraz © Spaswinefood

Aromas and Flavors of Syrah/Shiraz © Spaswinefood

The three Syrahs showed Spicey, Savory and Jammy wine styles.

Overiew of Syrah/Shiraz Wines Tasted © Spaswinefood

1. E. Guigal, Croze Hermitage, Rhone Valley 2019

E. Guigal, Croze Hermitage, Rhone Valley 2019 © Spaswinefood

The E. Guigal, Croze Hermitage was a good example of Syrah from the Northern Rhone, which is known for Syrahs with rich aromas and flavors. Regrettably, many warmer climatic regions have mass produced Syrahs. When you mass produce Syrah however, it commonly lacks the characteristics or wildness for which the grape is well known. The result is many Syrahs ended up being used in red blends. Chomiskey has written on the reasons for the need to focus on the production of quality Syrah. 

2. L'Ecole 41 Syrah, Columbia Valley 2020

L'Ecole 41 Syrah, Columbia Valley 2020 © Spaswinefood

L'Ecole 41, Syrah 2020 is a good indication of a savory profile from the Columbia Valley. The winery description: 

This full-bodied Syrah shows robust and pronounced aromas of blackberry, black currant, violets, black peppercorn, Herbes de Provence, and licorice. Spiced dark fruit flavors reveal themselves on the palate finishing with a mouth-filling, savory richness. (L'Ecole 41)

For one of my 2018 articles I wrote this:

I was to board a bus, with the same color placard as the dot, and the bus would take us to a dinner at a mystery location. When your mystery dinner turns out to be hosted by L’Ecole 41 and Woodward Canyon wineries, then you know that you are in great hands. 

L'Ecole N° 41, Walla Walla 2018 © Spaswinefood

This outing was not my first introduction to L’Ecole 41 and Woodward Canyon wineries. It was however, my first opportunity to meet the faces behind the wines. Washington State's Walla Walla Valley AVA has been a rising star in the wine world for awhile. The first wine making in the area dates back to 1840's. Wine making disappeared here during Prohibition. Fortunately the area experienced a rebirth in 1970's with the establishment of Leonetti Cellars. This was followed by arrival of Woodward Canyon in 1981 and  L' Ecole N° 41 in 1983. The appellation AVA was granted in 1984. Naturally, Spaswinefood was excited to return to  L’Ecole 41 and Woodward Canyon wineries, to gain further insights into what makes this wine region so very special. 

I would also like to note that Stolpman Santa Barbara's Ballard Canyon AVA produces quality Syrah. This AVA decided to focus its efforts on producing top quality Syrahs. Boutique wineries in Ballard Canyon AVA achieved this goal by engaging in small scale production of Syrahs with richer aromas and flavors. This decision has come after, not only doing research on what grows best in the AVA but, it is the collective vision for the AVA. In keeping with this goal 50% of the AVA is dedicated to the growing of Syrah. Dragonette Cellars, is also located in Santa Barbara wine country.

  

3. Torbreck Woodcutters Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2021

Torbreck Woodcutters Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2021 © Spaswinefood

This 2021 vintage gets good reviews by Vivino users and critics. While the description works for this Barossa Valley Shiraz I believe that this is not true for all. After an earlier visit to the Barossa Valley I wrote the following:

Barossa Valley

It was so easy to fall in love with the Barossa Valley Wine Region, South Australia. As we traveled throughout the region’s towns, villages and hamlets we grew to love it more. This region is not only home to over 80 cellar doors and 150 wineries but also, it offers so many culinary delights, ranging from farmers markets to fine dining. Similarly, you will find accommodations for every budget from student hostels and caravan parks to romantic country cottages, boutique hotels and more. 

Barossa Valley, Australia © Spaswinefood

The area rivals any top wine region in the world. It is easily accessible by car, bus and train from Adelaide. Adelaide is served by domestic and international flights. Barossa Valley also makes a perfect base for exploring the nearby wine regions: Adelaide Hills, Clare Valley and Murray River.

Charles Melton is where tradition and wine making style are a perfect blend. Bruce Schoenfeld writing for Saveur definitely hits the nail on head when he described wines, such as Melton's, as having "freshness and fineness far more than heft". Moreover, I rather liked his description of the Barossa Valley wine scene. My personal observations are that during my winery visits I tasted plenty of jammy Shiraz wines that were high in alcohol. In fact some wineries prided themselves in making wines in this style. Fortunately there is also a wonderful diversity of other wine styles throughout the valley.

Taking a Look at Syrah/Shiraz Wine Styles © Spaswinefood

Attending the KOV wine tasting gave me the perfect opportunity to engage in an inquiry; and to also reflect on my earlier experiences with Syrah. Next, I will review two Chilean Syrahs served at a recent wine dinner.

Aqua Wine Room, Antigua © Spaswinefood

Wine Escape Two: Wine Dinner Aqua, Antigua, Guatemala

Last week I enjoyed a wine dinner at Aqua Restaurant. Sommelier Juan Jansa from El Mercat introduced six wines that evening.

Juan Jansa, El Mercat © Spaswinefood

Two of the wines introduced by Juan were Perez Cruz, Syrahs from Chile. These Syrahs motivated me to explore styles of Chilean Syrah. The Wine Diplomats give this overview of Chilean Syrah:

Syrah is the 5th most planted red wine grape in the world and the 6th most planted grape overall in Chile. In Chile, it plays a supporting role in the Central Valley wine regions in Bordeaux blends. In addition, most of these same producers also produce varietal versions, but they’re rarely their flagship wines. On the other hand, Syrah is more important as a monovarietal wine for producers in Northern Chile in places like Atacama and the Elqui Valley, and along the coast for cool-climate Syrah in the San Antonio Valley and Casablanca. 

In terms of style, rarely does a Chilean Syrah act like an Australian Shiraz, which tends to be higher in alcohol, wood and ripeness. Similarly, they’re usually less ripe, alcoholic and wood influenced than California Syrah. Compared to the Northern Rhone in France, they’re less terroir and vintage driven. The amount of oak and overall style can vary from producer to producer and depend on the price range in all these places though. (Winediplomats)

I found that the above description a helpful framework to review the two wines from the same producer (Perez Cruz) served that evening. Perez Cruz has a rich heritage in winemaking. Both wines came from Main-Andes, a sub-region of Maipo Valley, which is within Chile's Central Valley.

Perez Cruz, Syrah Limited Edition, DO Maipo Andes 2020 

The first wine is light in color, or translucent. This vintage is 92% Syrah, 6% Grenache, and 2% Mourvèdre --  Chile requires for varietal name to appear on the label a wine must contain 85% of the varietal listed, and as well at least 85% from the designated vintage year. On the nose there were some black fruit, spicy, and oak notes. In terms of taste it was on the dry side, smooth to medium tannins, and low to medium acidity. Both critics and Vivino users gave this wine good reviews.

Perez Cruz, Syrah Limited Edition, DO Maipo Andes 2020 © Spaswinefood

This Limited Edition Syrah fits within the overall description provided by Winediplomats

..... rarely does a Chilean Syrah act like an Australian Shiraz, which tends to be higher in alcohol, wood and ripeness. Similarly, they’re usually less ripe, alcoholic and wood influenced than California Syrah. Compared to the Northern Rhone in France, they’re less terroir and vintage driven. 

Perez Cruz, Laguai, DO Maipo Andes 2019

In contrast the second wine, a Syrah blend was a more structured and complex wine. It was produced from grapes grown in some of Perez Cruz best vineyards. The 2019 vintage is a blend of 48% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 23% Carmenere. On the nose there were very more intense black fruit, spicy and oak notes than the first wine. In terms of taste it was drier with bolder tannins, and good acidity. Again, this wine get good scores from both critics and Vivino users.

Perez Cruz, Laguai, DO Maipo Andes 2019 © Spaswinefood

The second wine fits within the Central Valley wine regions profile for Bordeaux style blends.

These two Perez Cruz Syrahs that I tasted were very different.  I enjoyed the contrast in style. Both wines are available in Guatemala from El Mercat.

Qué Syrah, Shiraz

Both the above two Chilean Syrahs served at Aqua's wine dinner and those introduced at the KOV event illustrate the diversity of Syrah/Shiraz styles.

Syrah/Shiraz, KOV © Spaswinefood

Que Syrah/Shiraz © Spaswinefood

Both of the above Syrah/Shiraz escapedes illustrate the rich diversity in Syrah styles, both across and within wine regions around the world. Special thanks to the sommeliers for sharing their insights into these wines. I invite you to join me in my wine travels at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my vine-filled explorations. 

CHEERS!

Sharon 

February 2024

Antigua, Guatemala 

© Spaswinefood

Aqua Wine Room, Antigua © Spaswinefood

Que Syrah, Que Shiraz © Spaswinefood

A Little Syrah/Shiraz & Chocolate © Spaswinefood