Wednesday, August 30, 2023

Living the dream in Ribera del Duero: Bodegas Aalto

Bodegas Aalto has the reputation of producing some of the finest wines in Ribera del Duero and Spain. Needless to say, I was excited to be introduced to their wines. Upon arrival in Ribero del Duero wine country our very first wine tasting was at Bodegas Aalto. As a backdrop to this wine story, I still remember that drive with Claire from San Sebastian to Peñafiel, and then onto Bodegas AaltoThe winery is located in the village of Quintanilla de Arriba, in Campo de Peñafiel region, in Valladolid, Spain, which is a short drive from Peñafiel. Here's to living the dream in Ribera del Duero wine country!

Ribera del Duero Travels with WineMine Friends © Spaswinefood

Given we traveled in private vehicles from San Sebastian to Ribera del Duero this meant we need to meetup at the winery. Fortunately, Claire and I managed to pull into the parking lot with no time to spare. Don't you love how wine country travels are always filled with adventure? 

Welcome to Bodegas Aalto

For sure my expectations were high for our first wine tasting at Bodegas Aalto. After all, Bodegas Aalto has the reputation of producing some of the finest wines. Mariano Garcia, renowned oenologist of the Bodegas Vega Sicilia, and Javier Zaccagnini, an expert in wine business management, founded the AALTO project in February 1999, in the Ribera del Duero. 2006, Masaveu and Nozaleda families joined AALTO, both are owners of wineries in other wine regions of Spain. 1999-2004 production of the wines took place in rented facilities in Roa (Burgos, Spain). They chose a winery location in the municipality of Quitanilla de Arriba (Valladolid). When the first phase of the winery was completed in 2005 the first harvest was produced in the new facilities. The second phase of the winery, the more social part of its operations, was finalized in 2016. 

Now here we were about to experience some of the excitement of Bodegas Aalto. Before rushing in, I just had to take in the vineyard views. 

Vineyard Views at Bodegas Aalto, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

First, we toured the winery.

Bodegas Aalto's Grape Sorting & Pressing Area © Spaswinefood

After a brief overview we were off to the grape sorting and pressing area. Then onto the tanks and barrels.

Tanks & Barrels, Bodegas Aalto © Spaswinefood

Clearly, this modern winery has all the bells and whistles.

Tanks & Barrels, Bodegas Aalto © Spaswinefood

Last stop was the cellar where the wines were undergoing barrel time.
Bodegas Aalto wines are aged in French and American oak barrels.

Barrel Storage for Aging, Bodegas Aalto © Spaswinefood

We discovered that half of winery facilities are buried underground. The winery uses state-of-the-art winemaking techniques, while still respecting the ancestral wisdom of Ribera del Duero region.

We returned to the tasting room to taste some of the top rated wines in the world. We tasted two of their 2020 wines. The winery produces two wines, Aalto and Aalto PS, both of which are Ribera del Duero DO. Aalto PS (Private Selection) is the winery's flagship wine, and it is only made in the very best vintages. Not only the grapes must reach high quality standards however, the remaining grapes undergo a further selection process. 

Tasting Bodegas Aalto Wines © Spaswinefood

Bodegas Aalto, Aalto and Aalto PS 2020 Wines © Spaswinefood

Aalto and Aalto PS 2020, Bodegas Aalto © Spaswinefood

While their 2020 wines are ready to drink now they will gain complexity over the years. I look forward to tasting more vintages of Aalto wines in the future. During our visiting I saw 2008 and other vintages on display.

Bodegas Aalto, Aalto PS 2008 © Spaswinefood

Bodegas Aalto, Aalto 2008  © Spaswinefood

Leaving Bodegas Aalto that day I paused to take in the Ribero Del Duero's spring time landscape.

Vineyard at Bodegas Aalto, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

Vineyard at Bodegas Aalto, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

After our Bodegas Aalto wine tasting it was off to lunch at Molino de Palacios in Peñafiel.

Molino de Palacios, Peñafiel

Molino de Palacios, Peñafiel © Spaswinefood

Over lunch we enjoyed some traditional Spanish foods with Ribera del Duero wines. After an exciting vine-filled day we checked into Hotel La Vida, and concluded the day with dinner at our hotel.

Welcome to Ribera del Duero Wine Country

Indeed, I had come to experience today's Ribera del Duero first hand. It was delightful to not only experience the spring time beauty of Ribera del Duero but also, learn about its long history and tradition of wine making.

Ribera del Duero Wine Country © Spaswinefood

Ribera del Duero DO is located in northern Spain's Castilla y León region. There on the northern plateau of the Iberian Peninsula, along the sides of the Duero River, the wine region occupies the southern plains of Burgos province, extends west to Valladolid, and into parts of Segovia and Doris provinces. The appellation received DO status in 1982. In 2008, it was approved for Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status however, it never pursued this classification, so it remains a DO appellation. It is one of Spain's best red wine regions. It is known for its Tempranillo (Tinto Fino), which is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec, up to 25 %The appellation is almost exclusively red and rosado (rosé) wines. To be recognized as DO,  its red wines must contain a minimum of 75 % Tempranillo. No more than 5 % Garnacha or Albillo, in total, may be added. Its Rosado wines must have a minimum of 50 % of the authorized red varieties. The white wine produced, mostly for local consumption, is Albillo. DO regulations require at least 75 % of Albillo grapes be used.

Bodegas Aalto Vineyard, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

For sure Bodegas Aalto was a perfect kick-off to Ribera del Duero wine country. Everywhere our vine-filled explorations took us over our three-day visit, vineyards and poppies dotted the landscape. 

Red Poppies, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

Spring time was great timing to checkout the wines, the cuisine and admire the landscape, dotted with poppies. Next day, our wine country travels began at Pago de Carraovejas .

Pago de Carraovejas, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

Pago de Carraovejas is a stunning winery, with amazing views all around it. Seeing the historic castle in the distance further added to that.

Views of the Castle from Pago de Carraovejas © Spaswinefood

During our springtime visit to Ribera del Duero many times we passed the historic castle on the hill overlooking Peñafiel.

Historic Castle, Ribero del Duero © Spaswinefood

Historic Castle, Peñafiel, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

Indeed, Bodegas Aalto, was a great introduction to living the dream in Ribera del Duero wine country! I so looked forward to our Ribera del Duero adventures, where the wine is oh so great and the poppies dot the landscape. Right from that first evening of our WineMine travels back in San Sebastián Sinisa set the stage for our introduction to Ribera del Duero wines. For me, besides re-discovering the beauty of this region, I have become aware Ribera del Duero wines are changing. Overall today's wines are more balanced and elegant than the earlier wines that I was first introduced to in 2013. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Spain and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my recent vine-filled explorations in Spain. 



CHEERS!

Sharon 
May 2023
Ribera del Duero, Spain 
© Spaswinefood

Bodegas Aalto, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

Wine Tasting, Bodegas Aalto © Spaswinefood
Vineyard Views at Bodegas Aalto, Ribera Del Duero © Spaswinefood

Wherever we travelled in Ribera Del Duero there were red poppies.

Spring Time Poppies, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood
Spring Time, Ribera del Duero © Spaswinefood

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Sunday, August 27, 2023

An evening with friends at Lisbon's Maria Palato

I arrived in Lisbon, Portugal's capital and largest city, home to urban wineries and wine bars, with plans to explore its wine scene. Given the city's numerous wine bars wine tasting is a popular activity. In fact knowing this, I came to Lisbon with a list of wine bars to visit. Shortly after my friends arrived in town, we booked a reservation for Maria Palato's wine bar.  What follows is an overview of how our Maria Palato evening went!

Maria Palato, Lisbon © Spaswinefood

Off to Maria Palato's
Lisbon is an inviting city to explore. During my May visit I loved hopping into an Uber and meeting up with friends across town.

Exploring Lisbon's Wine Scene © Spaswinefood

When I stepped out of the taxi my friends were waiting at the entrance to the wine bar.

Arrival at Maria Palato, Lisbon © Spaswinefood

After announcing our arrival for the reservation we were taken upstairs to a table. 

Welcome to Maria Palato, Lisbon

Maria Palato, Lisbon © Spaswinefood

I choose for us to visit Maria Palato because it is one of Lisbon's top rated wine bars. It is popular with both locals and international travelers. Another plus is that Maria Palato pours wines produced by the smaller vineyards from all over Portugal. It was a great opportunity to discover some of Portugal's smaller wine producers.
 
Wine Tasting at Maria Palato
We began with an Alvarinho.

Quinta da Lixa, Pouco Comum Alvarinho, Vinho Verde DOC 2022 
Quinta da Lixa, Pouco Comum Alvarinho, Vinho Verde DOC 2022 © Spaswinefood

Alvarinho was an excellent choice to begin our tasting. Albariño (Galician pronunciation [alβaˈɾiɲʊ]), or Alvarinho (Portuguese pronunciation  [alvɐˈɾiɲu]meaning white, whitish, is a white grape variety grown in northwest Portugal and Spain (Galicia)It is native to the northwestern corner of the Iberian peninsula where it is planted both sides of the border. While there has been some discussion about its origin, recent studies suggest this grape is native to Galicia/Portugal. We enjoyed our Vinho Verde Alvarinho and looked forward to exploring more during our travels.

Soon a delightful charcuterie platter arrived at our table. While they also offer Portuguese food options we decided on a charcuterie platter for our visit.

Charcuterie Platter, Maria Palato © Spaswinefood

The second white wine arrived a little later. 

Zom Superior Branco, Douro 2020 
Zom Superior Branco, Douro 2020 © Spaswinefood

This Douro white wine blend is made from Gouveio, Rabigato, Viosinho, and Codega de Larinho.

A guest at an adjoining table volunteered to take a photo of us.

Evening at Maria Palato, Lisbon © Spaswinefood

Third wine poured that evening was a red wine.

Tavares de Pina, Tretas Vinho Tinto, Dão 2021
Tavares de Pina, Tretas Vinho Tinto, Dão 2021 © Spaswinefood

This Tavares de Pina red wine is a blend of Mencia, Touriga Nacional, and Rufete.

Soon another red wine blend appeared.

Adega Marel, Ilustre Red, Alentejo 2020
Adega Marel, Ilustre Red, Alentejo 2020 © Spaswinefood

This Alentejo red is a blend of Alicante Bouschet and Touring Nacional.

A red wine from the Douro followed.

Barão De Vilar, Reserva Tinta, Douro DOC 2020

Barão De Vilar, Reserva Tinta, Douro DOC 2020 © Spaswinefood

It is a red wine blend from the Douro made with Touring National, Tina Roriz, Tina Barroca, and Tinto Cão.

Some sweets arrived at our table. Yes, there was chocolate too, to pair with a port.

Barão De Vilar, 10 Year Old Tawny Port

Barão De Vilar, 10 Year Old Tawny Port © Spaswinefood

This was my first time tasting port from this producer. I must admit that when it comes to port I have been spoiled still, it was exciting to discover this producer's port.

Our host treated us to an extra pour, a Madeira.

Blandy's Madeira 5 Year Old Reserve

Barão De Vilar, 10 Year Old Port © Spaswinefood

It was great for me to revisit this wine. For my friends this was the perfect introduction to Madeira wines. Blandy's was a place I had visited earlier on a trip to Madeira. 

Overall the wines that evening gave us a great vine-filled trip across Portugal's wine regions. I would suggest the above tasting for newcomers to Portuguese wines. If you have a deeper understanding of Portuguese wines then you might want to request something more appropriate to your needs. I am sure they would be happy to accommodate you. The service and attention to details at Maria Plato's was excellent.

After a wonderful evening I hopped back into an Uber for a ride across town to my apartment. I managed to get a photo before disappearing into the night.

Maria Palato, Lisbon © Spaswinefood

Lisbon has a bustling wine bar scene with many excellent options for an enjoyable experience. I would highly recommend an evening meetup with friends at Lisbon's Maria Palato wine bar. A reservation is strongly recommended because, even in May before the peak tourist season Lisbon was very busy. Wine enthusiasts should put Maria Palato on their wine bar list. I would also add a visit to the urban winery, Adega Belém. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Portugal and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my vine-filled explorations in Portugal. 


CHEERS!


Sharon 
May 2023
Lisbon, Portugal 
© Spaswinefood

Adega Belém, Lisbon © Spaswinefood

#spaswinefood travels in Portugal 🇵🇹 Lisbon #winelover



Thursday, August 24, 2023

Lisbon's urban winery Adega Belém: Where wine stories are created with love

Getting to know Lisbon's wine scene included a visit to Adega Belém, an urban winery. Portugal's capital and largest city is home to urban wineries and wine bars. Not only does Lisbon have an exciting wine scene but also you are not far from wine country. Top on my list was Adega Belém where I met up with #winelover friends, Catarina and David (winery owners who also winemakers), and a family pet. What I discovered at this family winery were inviting stories about wines, which were created with love.

Welcome to Adega Belém, Lisbon © Spaswinefood

During my Lisbon stay I loved exploring its foodie and wine scene. Every day while I was there I took Uber to a new location to checkout its offerings. 

Exploring Lisbon © Spaswinefood

While most folks checkout the top sites I loved exploring Lisbon because it's exciting gastronomic scene. 

Pastéis de Belém, Lisbon © Spaswinefood

That day we (Carol, Sue and I) visited Adega Belém our Lisbon friend, Malfalda suggested we all meet at Pastéis de Belém, a local bakery famous for its pastel de nata (custard tart). From the bakery we walked to the winery.

Welcome to Adega Belém 

Friends Meetup, Adega Belém © Spaswinefood

Soon, we were at the cellar door being welcome by the family dog.

Welcome to Adega Belém © Spaswinefood

Adega Belém's winery's symbol is a frog. The owners believe that 1) the Iberian frog's calling story provides such a good metaphor for them and their work; and moreover, 2) Catarina used to be a professional frog scientist hence the Iberian frog became their winery logo.

Adega Belém Wines © Spaswinefood

One of the first things you notice about Adega Belém wines are the labels. This is a family winery where their daughter's drawings are used on the labels. Of course each drawing tells a story. Children's drawings are also proudly displayed in the wine tasting area.

Exploring Wine Stories

Soon we gathered around the table to taste the wines, which produced via a natural fermentation process, with minimum intervention. Their wines include a number of Iberian grape varieties like, Arinto, Encruzado, Moscatel Galego, Alvarinho, Castelão and Touriga Franca. During the tasting we were introduced to eight wines. For these wines we focused on exploring the diversity of textures, aromas and styles.  

Adega Belém © Spaswinefood

When you taste wines with friends everyone has a favorite.

Wine Tasting, Adega Belém © Spaswinefood

Now the wines, Let's take a closer look at the wines we tasted.

Adega Belém Wines © Spaswinefood

I enjoyed learning about each of the wines and the stories behind each label. This is a family winery where great care is taken by the winemakers in producing the wines. Their daughters drawings are used to design labels to share stories, even drawings of family pets are on some of the labels.

Of course when we are wine tasting some wine conversations are always necessary.

Conversing, Adega Belém © Spaswinefood

For those who know Carol, she always finds a way to introduce some chocolate.

Conversations, Adega Belém © Spaswinefood

Now, there might be some chocolate to pair with those red wines. What do you think?

Chocolate Time, Adega Belém © Spaswinefood

Then for me one more last look at the wines. I was glad to discover Adega Belém where all the wines are created with love, and has story to share.

Adega Belém Wines Tasted © Spaswinefood

After a fabulous meetup with friends over a wine tasting at Adega Belém we were off to lunch at nearby O Frade.

O Frade, Lisbon © Spaswinefood

Our visit to Adega Belém was a most delightful experience. Lisbon's Adega Belém is a family winery that I highly recommend visiting. I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Portugal and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my vine-filled explorations in Portugal. 


CHEERS!


Sharon 
May 2023
Lisbon, Portugal 
© Spaswinefood

Friends, Adega Belém © Spaswinefood

#spaswinefood travels in Portugal 🇵🇹 Lisbon #winelover

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