Whenever, I visit Budapest I always get that wanting to return soon feeling. Return I did for the 2024 FICB (Federation International of Wine Brotherhoods) International Wine Tasting and Rating Challenge in Budapest. This last visit to Budapest was extra special because, I not only explored more Hungarian wines but also, visited Tokaj. Given I have enjoyed Tokaj wines over the year, I was excited to visit this wine region for the first time. While the Tokaj wine region is best known for its Tokaji Aszú (a noble sweet wine) it also produces excellent sparkling, and dry white wines. Before leaving for Tokaj we did an evening cruise on the Danube. It was a perfect evening to take in sights along the Danube. Join me on my Budapest to Tokaj journey, with a stop in Eger.
A Budapest Goodbye
That last evening in Budapest I got to experience the ever changing light at sunset along the Danube. No two rides pass the same building were the same. For sure, seeing the Buda Castle and the Széchenyi Chain Bridge at night, were extra special.
YES, after three awesome days in Budapest off we went to Tokaj wine country. I was so fortunate to return to Hungary to attend the 2024 FICB International Wine Tasting and Rating Challenge, 23-28 May 2024, hosted by Pannonia Wine Sisterhood. After the main program in Budapest, May 23-May 26, 2024, it was followed by the extension program in Tokaj, May 26-May 28, 2024.
Time to Say Goodbye
Next day, after the cruise, there was a sparkling wine breakfast; then we were off to Tokaj.
Before breakfast I took in views in front of the hotel that early Sunday morning.
After leaving Budapest we were off to Eger, a beautiful baroque city. While in Budapest we stay at Hotel Radisson Blu Béke.
A Mid-day Stop in Eger
In case you are wondering why stop in Eger. Besides its baroque buildings, it is known for a medieval castle, thermal baths, the northernmost Ottoman minaret, and of course its wines. The town is located on the Eger Stream (a Tisza River tributary), in the hills between the Mátra and Bükk Mountains. Eger is also the name given to the Hungarian wine region, located in Hungary's northeast, to the east of the Mantra foothills, in the Bükk Mountains. During our visit we not only introduced to some of the city's rich history, but also the Eger Wine Region.
Upon our arrival at Eger's Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem across the plaza I saw the Eger Basilica.
Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Apostle, Eger © Spaswinefood
Looking around the plaza I saw other historical buildings. There is much to explore here.
Welcome to Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem and Academia Wines
Soon we were introduced to the historical Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem. We would begin our visit by touring the building at Eszterházy Tér 1.
Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem, Eszterházy Tér 1 © Spaswinefood
Ager's Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem, founded in 1774, is now the Eszterházy Károly Catholic University. In 1989 it was renamed after its founder Bishop Károly Eszterházy. Since 1 August 2021 Eger's Roman Catholic Archdiocese has been the owner of university. The university's buildings are scattered through the city, with the largest and oldest ones built in baroque style. We were most fortunate to visit the university building at Eszterházy Tér 1. I managed to captured some of the artistic ceiling details in two of the rooms we visited.
A closer look at the ceiling shows the richness of the artistic details.
Another room with more amazing artwork and architectural details.
I was impressed with the amazing architectural details at Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem. For visitors with more time there are plenty of historical buildings and sites to see in Eger. Eger is not only a well-known baroque city but also, is known for its incredible wine cellars, magnificent caverns, and some of Hungary’s most famous wine centers. What has made Ager legendary is its Egri Bikaver, a blended red wine, known as Bulls Blood. The legend goes that during the siege of the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century, the Ager troops beards were stained by drinking Egri Bikaver wine. When their enemies saw them they believed that they had drunk the blood of bulls, hence the wine got the name Bulls Blood.
During our visit to the Eszterházy Tér 1 building we did a wine tasting of Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem, Academia Wines. My understanding is that the wines are produced by the university's enology program.
Our host poured three different wines for us.
He began by introducing Academia, Egri Csillag 2022. Egri Csillag (Eger Star), is the name of white wine field blends from this region. Similar to Eger's famous red wine cousin, Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood), the wine blend incorporates both indigenous and international varieties.
Academia, Egri Csillag 2022
Then later he poured Chardonnay and Egri Bikavek wines.
Academia, Egri Chardonnay 2020
Academia, Egri Bikavek 2021
As I noted earlier, Eger is legendary is its Egri Bikaver, a blended red wine known as Bulls Blood. I had tasted Bulls Blood during earlier visits to Hungary however, this was my first time tasting it in Eger.
After the wine tasting we were off to lunch. I so enjoyed our walk through the pedestrian area.
Off to Lunch, Eger © Spaswinefood
Welcome to Gál Tibor Winery
Our Eger city tour would end at Gal Tibor Winery's Fuzio Wine Bar for lunch.
Gál Tibor, Pinot Noir Rosé 2023 © Spaswinefood
Soon we were introduced to the history of this winery.
The winery was founded by Senior Tibor Gál, a world famous winemaker in 1992. His career began in 1989 at an Eger state owned wine company. Marchese Ludovico Antinori, after a visit and tasting, invited him to work in Tuscany. Tibor Gál accepted the challenge, he began as a cellar worker, and did not stop until becoming chief winemaker of Ornellaia. The family returned to Hungary in 1992 and founded the Gál Tibor Winery. In the beginning they made wine from purchased grapes. Their first Egri Bikavér was released in 1995. Also, while it was quite unusual at that time in Hungary, Tibor Gál placed an emphasis on Pinot Noir as well. In 1997 Tibor Gál bought the first vineyards. He was awarded Winemaker of the Year in 1998, and in the same year he created Ornellaia’s first SuperTuscan blend, which made it to Number One on the Wine Spectator Top 100 list in 2001! He kept on working as a flying winemaker at several estates around the world, until his tragic death in South Africa (he was a consultant of Capaia). After several hard years and with hard work by the whole family, Gál Tibor Winery is again one of Hungary's a top estates under the leadership of Tibor Gál Junior.
Next, we took a peek into the wine cellar.
Then it was onto lunch in the wine cave.
It is always such a pleasure to dine in a wine cave.
We were walked through the details on each wine served during lunch.
From appetizers to main courses we enjoyed a fabulous lunch paired with wines.
Appetizers
Main Course
All the courses were paired with Gál Tibor wines.
These Gál Tibor wines were a great showcase of wine offerings from this region. Besides the Rosé wine (Gál Tibor, Pinot Noir Rosé 2023) the other wines served included:
2. ( Egri Csillag (Eger Star) 2023 a white wine field blends from this region.
Fresh, crisp and eminently drinkable as always - this vintage has a bit more Hárslevelü and Leányka added to the mix, so it’s a touch more golden, lush and textured. 30% Hárslevelű, 20%, Leányka, 10% Pinot Blanc, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Szürkebarát, 10% Tramini & 10% Viognier
3. Kardaka 2022
4. Nagy-Edge Kéfrankos Grand Superior 2019
5. Labirintus Egri Bikavér Superior 2019 (Bull’s Blood) more famous red wine cousin of Egri Csillag)
Gál Tibor © Spaswinefood
Before I leaving those amazing places during my wine travels I love to savor the essence of being there.
All too soon ,we were back on the bus heading to Tokaj.
From Eger onto Tokaj Wine Country
For me living the dream was discovering Ager's baroque buildings, the wines of Academia and Gál Tibor wineries, and more. After leaving Eger we were off to Tokaj Wine Country.
Our FICB group travel concluded that day at Tokaj's Wine Research Institute where we received an intro to the region. There we also met three of Tokaj's female winemakers. While in Tokaj we stayed at Andrassy Manor and Spa.
Tokaj was definitely a dream come true. For the curious I have written articles on our Tokaj dream experiences with the FICB group. Now, is the time to explore Hungarian Wines! I invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Hungarian wine country and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood on Bluesky and Facebook.
CHEERS!
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