Tuesday, September 17, 2024

Living the dream in Hungarian wine country: Discovering Eger's baroque architecture, wines and more

After leaving Budapest we were off to Eger, a beautiful baroque city. We stopped in Eger, on our way from Budapest to Tokaj, besides its baroque buildings, it is known for a medieval castlethermal baths, the northernmost Ottoman minaret, and its wines. The town is located on the Eger Stream (a Tisza River tributary), in the hills between the Mátra and Bükk Mountains. Eger is also the name given to the Hungarian wine region, located in Hungary's northeast, to the east of the Mantra foothills, in the Bükk  Mountains. During our visit we not only introduced to some of the city's rich history, but also the Eger Wine Region.

Arriving in Eger, Hungary © Spaswinefood
Upon our arrival at Eger's Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem across the plaza I saw the Eger Basilica.

Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Apostle, Eger © Spaswinefood

Looking around the plaza I saw other historical buildings. There is much to explore here.

Eger, Hungary © Spaswinefood 
Welcome to Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem and Academia Wines
Soon we were introduced to the historical
Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem. We would begin our visit by touring the building at Eszterházy Tér 1.

Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem,  Eszterházy Tér 1 © Spaswinefood

Ager's Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem, founded in 1774, is now the Eszterházy Károly Catholic University. In 1989 it was renamed after its founder Bishop Károly Eszterházy. Since 1 August 2021 Eger's Roman Catholic Archdiocese has been the owner of university. The university's buildings are scattered through the city, with the largest and oldest ones built in baroque style. We were most fortunate to visit the university building at Eszterházy Tér 1. I managed to captured some of the artistic ceiling details in two of the rooms we visited.

Beautiful Ceiling, Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem © Spaswinefood

A closer look at the ceiling shows the richness of the artistic details.

Taking a Closer Look at Ceiling, Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem © Spaswinefood

Later, we toured another room with more amazing artwork and architectural details.

Ceiling, Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem © Spaswinefood
Again, let's take a closer look at the artistic details in this ceiling. 

 Ceiling, Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem © Spaswinefood

I was impressed with the amazing architectural details at Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem. For visitors with more time there are plenty of historical buildings and sites to see in Eger. Eger is not only a well-known baroque city but also, is known for its incredible wine cellars, magnificent caverns, and some of Hungary’s most famous wine centers. What has made Ager legendary is its Egri Bikaver, a blended red wine, known as Bulls Blood. The legend goes that during the siege of the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century, the Ager troops beards were stained by drinking Egri Bikaver wine. When their enemies saw them they believed that they had drunk the blood of bulls, hence the wine got the name Bulls Blood.

Before we left the Eszterházy Tér 1 building we did a wine tasting of Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem, Academia Wines. My understanding is that the wines are produced by the university's enology program.

Eszterházy Károly Katolikus Egyetem Wines © Spaswinefood 

Our host poured three different wines for us.

Winemaker Introducing Wines © Spaswinefood 

He began by introducing Academia, Egri Csillag 2022.

Academia, Egri Csillag 2022 
Academia, Egri Csillag 2022 © Spaswinefood 

Egri Csillag (Eger Star), is the name of white wine field blends from this region. Similar to Eger's famous red wine cousin, Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood), the wine blend incorporates both indigenous and international varieties.

Academia, Egri Csillag 2022 

Academia, Academia, Egri Csillag 2022  © Spaswinefood 

Then later he poured Chardonnay and Egri Bikavek wines.

Academia, Egri Chardonnay 2020

Academia, Egri Chardonnay 2020 © Spaswinefood

Academia, Egri Chardonnay 2020 © Spaswinefood
Academia, Egri Bikavek 2021 
Academia, Egri Bikavek 2021 © Spaswinefood 

Academia, Egri Bikavek 2021 © Spaswinefood

As I noted earlier, Eger is legendary is its Egri Bikaver, a blended red wine known as Bulls Blood. I had tasted Bulls Blood during earlier visits to Hungary however, this was my first time tasting it in Eger.

After the wine tasting we were off to lunch. I so enjoyed our walk through the pedestrian area.

Off to Lunch, Eger  © Spaswinefood

Historic Eger © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Gál Tibor Winery

Our Eger city tour would end at Gal Tibor Winery's Fuzio Wine Bar for lunch. 

Gál Tibor Winery, Eger © Spaswinefood

Upon arrival at Gál Tibor Winery a welcoming glass of rosé wine was waiting for us.

Gál Tibor, Pinot Noir Rosé 2023
Gál Tibor Rosé © Spaswinefood

Gál Tibor, Pinot Noir Rosé 2023 © Spaswinefood

Soon we were introduced to the history of this winery.

Tibor Gál Junior, Welcome to Gál Tibor © Spaswinefood

 The winery was founded by Senior Tibor Gál, a world famous winemaker in 1992. His career began in 1989 at an Eger state owned wine company. Marchese Ludovico Antinori, after a visit and tasting, invited him to work in Tuscany. Tibor Gál accepted the challenge, he began as a cellar worker, and did not stop until becoming chief winemaker of Ornellaia. The family returned to Hungary in 1992 and founded the Gál Tibor Winery. In the beginning they made wine from purchased grapes. Their first Egri Bikavér was released in 1995. Also, while it was quite unusual at that time in Hungary, Tibor Gál placed an emphasis on Pinot Noir as well. In 1997 Tibor Gál bought the first vineyards. He was awarded Winemaker of the Year in 1998, and in the same year he created Ornellaia’s first SuperTuscan blend, which made it to Number One on the Wine Spectator Top 100 list in 2001! He kept on working as a flying winemaker at several estates around the world, until his tragic death in South Africa (he was a consultant of Capaia). After several hard years and with hard work by the whole family, Gál Tibor Winery is again one of Hungary's a top estates under the leadership of Tibor Gál Junior.

Next, we took a peek into the wine cellar.

Gál Tibor Wine Cellar © Spaswinefood

Then it was onto lunch in the wine cave.

Gál Tibor Wine Cave © Spaswinefood

It is always such a pleasure to dine in a wine cave.

Table Ready, Gál Tibor © Spaswinefood

We were walked through the details on each wine served during lunch.

Introducing Gál Tibor Wines © Spaswinefood
Lunch, Gál Tibor © Spaswinefood

From appetizers to main courses we enjoyed a fabulous lunch paired with wines.

Appetizers 

Appetizer, Gál Tibor © Spaswinefood

Appetizer (Veggie Option), Gál Tibor © Spaswinefood

Main Course

Main Course, Gál Tibor © Spaswinefood
Main Course (Veggie Verson) Gál Tibor © Spaswinefood

All the courses were paired with Gál Tibor wines.

Vegetarian Menu, Gál Tibor Wine Bar Fúzió © Spaswinefood

This was a great food and wine pairing. Of course there was Eger's legendary Egri Bikaver, a blended red wine, known as Bulls Blood was on this list.

Gál Tibor Wines © Spaswinefood

These Gál Tibor wines were a great showcase of wine offerings from this region. Besides the Rosé wine (Gál Tibor, Pinot Noir Rosé 2023) the other wines served included:

2. ( Egri Csillag (Eger Star) 2023 a white wine field blends from this region. 

Fresh, crisp and eminently drinkable as always - this vintage has a bit more Hárslevelü and Leányka added to the mix, so it’s a touch more golden, lush and textured. 30% Hárslevelű, 20%, Leányka, 10% Pinot Blanc, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Szürkebarát, 10% Tramini & 10% Viognier

3. Kardaka 2022

4. Nagy-Edge Kéfrankos Grand Superior 2019

5. Labirintus Egri Bikavér Superior 2019 (Bull’s Blood) more famous red wine cousin of  Egri Csillag)

Gál Tibor © Spaswinefood

Before I leaving those amazing places during my wine travels I love to savor the essence of being there.

Gál Tibor, May 2024 © Spaswinefood
Remembering Gál Tibor © Spaswinefood
I so loved learning about this winery and its wines.

All too soon ,we were back on the bus heading to Tokaj.

 On Our Way to Tokaj © Spaswinefood

From Eger it was onto Tokaj Wine Country

For me living the dream was discovering Ager's baroque buildings, the wines of Academia and Gál Tibor wineries, and more. After leaving Eger it was off to Tokaj Wine Country. Last May I returned to Hungary to attend the 2024 Federation International of Wine Brotherhoods (FICB) International Wine Tasting and Rating Challenge23-28 May 2024, hosted by Pannonia Wine SisterhoodThe main program was held in Budapest, from May 23-May 26, 2024, followed by the extension program in Tokaj, from May 26-May 28, 2024. After the main program off we went to Tokaj to explore more, fortunately we stopped in Ager along the way.

Off to Tokaj © Spaswinefood

Our FICB group traveled concluded that day at Tokaj's Wine Research Institute where we received an intro to the region. There we also met three of Tokaj's female winemakers. While in Tokaj we stayed at Andrassy Manor and Spa. Now, is the time to explore Hungarian WinesI invite you to join me in my wine adventures in Hungary at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and at Spaswinefood  on  Twitter and Facebook. 

CHEERS!


Sharon
May 2024
Ager, Hungary
© Spaswinefood
FICB (Federation International of Wine Brotherhoods) LunchGál Tibor © Spaswinefood 
Spring Time Vineyard, Tokaj, Hungary © Spaswinefood

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