Tuesday, August 15, 2023

Galicia's Pazo Señorans: Where women are leading the way

Our Galicia wine story began one late morning in May, at our very first stop, Pazo De Señorans, a gorgeous wine property. We toured the estate before sitting down with winemaker, Ana Quietly Suárez to taste Pazo Señorans award winning wines. Pazo Señorans is unique in that women are engaged in all the winery's activities. I always like to celebrate women who are making history in wine. Women's leadership in the wine world far too often goes unnoticed. Based on what I experienced the women I met here are amongst those leading the way in Spain's wine world.  Here's to women making history in the wine world!

Ana Quietly Suárez, Enologist, Pazo De Señorans © Spaswinefood

After crossing over into Galicia, Spain from Portugal we spent our first night in Vigo, a vibrant seaside city. Next morning, driving to Santiago de Compostela Carol and I dropped by Pazo Señorans. 

Off to Santiago de Compostela © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Galicia's Wine Country

Our drive from Vigo to Santiago de Compostela was our first introduction to Galician wine country. Driving through Rias Baixas region we saw many of garden sized Albariño vineyards through the car windows. 

Albariño Vineyard, Rias Baixas, Galicia © Spaswinefood
Albariño Vineyard, Galicia © Spaswinefood

We had come to Galicia to explore Albariño wines. Albariño is native to the northwestern corner of the Iberian peninsula where it is planted both sides of Spain's and Portugal's border. It constitutes more than 90 percent of the grapes planted in Galicia's Rias Baixas (lower estuaries), a series of four estuarine inlets located on the southwestern coast of GaliciaGiven the climatic variation within the Rias Baixas DO there are five different sub-regions (Val do Salnés, Ribeira do Ulla, Soutomaior, O Rosal, and Condado do Tea), in addition there are variations between vineyards, and of course across vintagesWhile Rías Baixas wine tends to be made entirely from the Albariño variety, a very small amount of red wine is made from the varieties Caiño, Espadeiro, and Mencía.

Pazo De Señorans

Our very first stop was at Pazo De Señorans, a gorgeous wine property in Rías Baixas DO. For sure it is one of the best Galician wineries. The winery is located at Vilanoviña, in the Pontevedra town of Meis, in one of Rías Baixas’ most prestigious wine-making sub-zones.


Welcome to Pazo De Señorans © Spaswinefood

We arrived at the property without a reservation. Fortunately, we were able to tour the property and do a wine tasting with the winemaker. Our tour and tasting was in Spanish. If you need a tour in English I would suggest a reservation.  


Pazo Señorans, Galicia © Spaswinefood

We were pleased to discover that this is a wine estate where women are engaged in all the winery's activities, from vineyard workers to management. 


Vineyard Workers, Pazo Señorans © Spaswinefood


Most of their Albariño is grown on pergolas, and hand-harvested by female vineyard workers in September. Surrounding the Pazo there are 18.5 hectares of vines. The estate also purchases fruit from their neighbors. This is a common practice in Rias-Baixas given its minuscule garden-like vineyards.

 Albariño (Galician pronunciation [alβaˈɾiɲʊ]), or Alvarinho (Portuguese pronunciation  [alvɐˈɾiɲu]meaning white, whitish, is a white grape variety grown in northwest Portugal and Spain. While there has been some discussion about its origin, recent studies suggest this grape is native to Galicia/Portugal. Rías Baixas's Albariño is typically aromatic and acid-driven. Some have described it as having a Viognier nose, and a Riesling palate. This classic, overarching description is changing, as wine producers experiment with oak aging and malolactic fermentation. Moreover, each of the area’s sub-regions brings a slightly different character to the wine.

Pazo Señorans Wine Tasting

After touring the estate we sat down with winemaker, Ana Quietly Suárez to taste and learn about their award winning Albariño wines.

Wine Tasting, Pazo Señorans © Spaswinefood

It was a fantastic experience for us to be in the company of this winemaker.

Welcome to Pazo Señorans © Spaswinefood


Being introduced to the wines by the winemaker was so very special for us.

Pazo Señorans Wines © Spaswinefood

Introduction to Pazo Señorans Wines © Spaswinefood


During the wine tasting we were introduced to the following wines (from right to left in photo):


Pazo Señorans Albariño Wines © Spaswinefood

1. 2021 Pazo Señorans Albariño
2. 2019  Pazo Señorans Colección Albariño
3. 2012 Pazo Señorans Selección de Añada Albariño 
4. 2020 Pazo Señorans Tras Los Muros Albariño

It was an amazing tasting. I was not surprised to discover that all of these wines get great reviews. 
What welcome to Galicia it was! We had come to the best place to begin our Albariño wine explorations.


Our Introduction to Pazo Señorans Wines © Spaswinefood

Pazo Señorans Wines © Spaswinefood


Included in the tasting were two distillations of Albariño produced by Pazo Señorans.


Pazo De Señorans Distillations © Spaswinefood


The two Albariño distillations were:

1. Pazo Señorans Aguardiente de Orujo de Galicia, Geographic Appellation Aguardiente de Galicia (right)

2. Pazo Señorans Aguardiente de Hierbas de Galicia, Geographic Appellation Aguardiente de Hierbas de Galicia (left)


Pazo Señorans Aguardiente © Spaswinefood


This was my first time tasting Aguardiente made with Albariño.


Pazo Señorans Aguardiente © Spaswinefood

Pazo Señorans: Aguardiente Time © Spaswinefood

Pazo Señorans: Intro to Aguardiente © Spaswinefood


It was informative for me to learn about aguardiente made from Albariño, and its long tradition in Galicia.


For sure this wine tasting Pazo Señorans set a high bar for us to measure other Albariño wines against.


Ready to Taste Pazo Señorans Wines © Spaswinefood


Reflections: Touring Pazo de Señorans

Now, I will share a few highlights from our tour of the estate. Pazo de Señorans has a complete manor house, with a wide array of outbuildings (a chapel and the largest surviving hórreo (a distinct, elevated barn typical to Galicia). 


Hórreo, Pazo Señorans © Spaswinefood


First, we were introduced to hórreos (granaries, perched on stone stilts to keep rain and rodents out). Next, we toured the chapel and then the manor house.

Chapel, Pazo Señorans © Spaswinefood


Pazo Señorans manor house is very impressive.

Grand Manor, Pazo Señorans © Spaswinefood

Grand Manor, Pazo Señorans © Spaswinefood


Galicia's Pazo Señorans: Where Women are Leading the Way

I cannot thank the Pazo De Señorans staff enough for a first class visit. If you are looking for an authentic, and first class wine and spirit experience, Pazo De Señorans is the place. Moreover, it is where women are making history in wine. After such a wonderful welcome to Galicia at Pazo De Señorans, it was onto Santiago de Compostela.  


Thank You, Pazo De Señorans © Spaswinefood

Later, we would explore the charms of Santiago and the Rutas do Viño vineyards of Rías Baixas. When wandering the traffic-free streets of its medieval center, we encountered modern-day pilgrims, as they headed for its spectacular cathedral and historic buildings. Each day we set on our vinous pilgrimage along Rutas do Viño vineyards of Rías BaixasWhat we discovered in Rias Baxis is that Atlantic Spain’s Galicia is a land of (1) pazos, and grand manor houses surrounded by vineyards, (2) hórreos (granaries), and (3) seafood rich estuaries fringed with vines and vegetable gardens.

Arriving in Galicia, Spain © Spaswinefood

During our Galicia travels we explored mainly the Rías Baixas area however, later as we traveled onto Portugal's Douro Valley we would get a glimpse into Galicia's other wine appellations. Galicia has five major wine regions: Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras, and Monterrei.  I invite you to join me in my wine travels in Galicia, and elsewhere in Spain at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. I am so looking forward to sharing more on my vine-filled explorations in Spain. 


CHEERS!

Sharon 
May 2023
Galicia, Spain 
© Spaswinefood

Carol, Pazo De Señorans, Galicia © Spaswinefood
Spaswinefood, Pazo De Señorans, Galicia © Spaswinefood

Thank You Pazo Señorans © Spaswinefood

Pazo Señorans: Ana Quietly Suárez, Enologist © Spaswinefood

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